26G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ JIarcU S9,1888. 
the soil all the ivinter, when they are lifted in April, divided into little 
pieces with a root attached to each, and replanted. This is our jiractice 
when we wish to increase them ; if not, they are allowed to remain in 
the same ])osition. Beginners will, however, require to buy a few plants, 
and I would advise this being done now, as many cuttings may be 
secured from the new jilants before planting time. Immediatelj' the 
plants are secured place them in moderate heat, and as soon as the 
growths are sufficiently large to form cuttings, take them off and root 
them in gentle heat. Placed out in May in the open they spread their 
sucker-like growths before the autumn, and these may be divided the 
following spring. Soil that will grow Pelargoniums will always pro¬ 
duce fine Chrysanthemums of this cla.ss. Probably anyone not ac¬ 
quainted with these Chrysanthemums, seeing an isolated plant in flower 
might feel disappointed with it, as the flowers are not large, or anything 
like those huge blooms seen at shows, but when seen in a mass or in 
long rows they delight everybody. They may be used in the most 
artistic flower garden, the best kept pleasure groumls, or in the borders 
of any kitchen garden. The following are six useful varieties, named 
in the order of merit :—Madame C. Desgrange, white, yellow centre; 
F61iciti, orange yellow ; Lyon, deep rosy purjile ; Souvenir de M. Ram- 
pont, reddish ; Nanum, silvery blush ; and Frederick Pel6, deep crimson.— 
-J. Muir, Margam, S. Wales. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest-farced Trees in Pots .—The fruit will soon commence 
ripening, especially the small varieties, when the supply of water must 
be gradually reduced, and gradually withhold moisture from the 
atmosphere, keeping the top lights open constantly. Still continue to 
supply liquid manure to those trees on which the fruit is swelling, and 
syringe the trees at closing time, ventilating in favourable weather. 
Early-forced Planted-out Trees .—Surface roots are of importance in 
the cultivation of fruit trees, especially those grown under glass with 
the roots inside. No fruit tree produces such roots so freely as the Fig 
if means are adopted to encourage them. A mulching of about 3 inches 
thickness of partially decayed manure will attract the roots to the surface 
and prove beneficial if kept moist. Liberal supplies of water or liquid 
manure will be necessary to assist in swelling the fruits satisfactorily. 
Continue to pinch out the points of the shoots and thin all crowded 
growths. No kind of fruit tree is more benefited than the Fig by the 
full rays of the sun ; shading of any kind, even too much of their own 
foliage, is injurious. The temperature may now be increased to 60° to 
65° at night, and in the daytime from 7.")° to 80° with sun heat. Attend 
to tying-in the shoots, allowing space for erowth. 
Baishig Young Trees .—If it be desired to increase the stock cuttings 
may still be inserted, selecting shoots alxmt 6 inches long, taking them 
off with a heel or portion of last year’s wood attached. They strike readily 
in bottom heat. They are best inserted in 3-inch pots singly. M’hen 
rooted shift without delay into 5-inch pots, and when they fill that size 
with roots transfer to 12-inch pots. Good drainage is necessary', and 
turfy loam with about a sixth of old mortar rubbish and a fifth of 
decayed manure forms a suitable compost, potting firmly. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earlie.tt Forced Trees. — Do not 
hurry the trees during the stoning process, but continue the temperature 
at 60° to 05° at night, 70° to 75° by day with sun heat, and about 0.5° by 
day in dull weather, being careful to avoid sudden fluctuations or 
depressions. Tie the shoots to the trellis as they' advance, ai.d regulate 
the growths for future bearing so as not to have them too crowded, as 
by giving the shoots plenty of room the fruit is better exposed to sun 
and air, and the wood for another year is stouter and better ripened. 
Shoots disposed to grow more than 14 inches may have the joints 
pinched out, those remarks not applying to extensions. AVhen the 
stoning process is over, which may be ascertained by testing a few 
fruits with a knife, the fruit will require regulating for the swelling-off 
period. Very vigorous trees may be allowed to carry a few more than 
those that are weakly, but on no account unnecessarily tax the trees with 
more fruit than can well be brought to maturity without prejudicing 
future crops. Weakly trees .should be supjdied with liquid manure, and 
the inside border in any ca.se must be kept properly supplied with 
water, mulching the surface with partially decayed manure. This will 
secure more uniform moisture, and the fruit will swell to a good size. 
The temperature may be increased to 05° or 70° at night, and in the 
day to 70° or 7.5°, maintaining 85° or 00° through the day from sun 
heat; ventilate from 75°, and close early with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture. The very' early varieties, such as Alexander, Waterloo, and 
Early' Beatrice, will soon give indications of ripening, when syringing 
must cease, and the leaves that shade or overhang the fruit must be 
drawn aside, and the fruit raised on laths if necessary across the wires 
of the trellis so that its'apex will be placeil directly to the light. 
Trees Started at the Neto Year .—-The fruit has swelled very tardily, 
owing no doubt to the arctic weather that has prevailed for some 
weeks. Stoning will, however, soon commence, care being necessary to 
prevent sudden checks by injudicious ventilation, cold air in the day¬ 
time and too high a temperature at night being fatal. Rest content with 
a night temperature of 00° to 05°, 5° less on cold nights, and 05° by day 
in dull weather, with 70° to 75° from sun heat. 
Trees Started Early in Eehruary .—These are a full fortnight later 
than usual, but the set is very satisfactory so far. Syringe as soon as the 
fruit is sot on all the trees, which will assist the trees to shed the 
remains of the blossoms, but avoid heavy syringing, an occasional one 
being what is needed until the foliage is more advanced. Allow a night 
temperature of 55° or 00° in mild weather, ventilating from 05°, per¬ 
mitting an advance from sun heat to 70° or 75°, but with full 
ventilation. 
iJishuddlng .—This should be .attended to early—as soon as the shoots 
can be displaced with the finger, and be followed up day by day until 
only the shoots required for future bearing or the extension of the trees 
are retained—viz., one from the base of the shoots now fruiting, and 
another on a level with or above the fruit; the latter, not being required 
for extension, should be stopped at a few joints of growth. In the case 
of trees not full grown it will be necessary to leave shoots about 15 
inches distance apart, calculating from the base on last year’s growth, to 
form the bearing shoots of next year, the terminals being trained in 
their full length as space permits. Closer training is often practised, 
resulting in weak overcrowded growth, not nearly so satisfactory as 
growth fully exposed to light and air. 
Thinning the Fruits .—When fairly set thinning should commence, 
removing the smallest first and those on the underside of the trellis, 
beginning with the weakest part of the trees, thinning proportionately 
more than on stronger wood, which from carrying more fruit w'ill tend to 
the equali.sation of the vi.,our of the tree. The fruit ought not ulti¬ 
mately to be left closer than one to every square foot of trrllis covered 
with growth, but Nectarines beino: a smaller fruit may have one to 
every 9 inches square (81 square inches) of trellis covered by the trees. 
The first thinning should commence not later than the fruit is the size 
of horse beans, the second when the size of marbles, when very few 
more should be left than is required for the crop, lookingoveragain when 
the fruit is the size of walnuts, and very few indeed over the intended 
crop should be left, though there should always be a margin for 
casualties. 
Syringing .—Syringe all trees not in flower, twice when the weather 
is bright, so as to keep them free from red spider. The afternoon 
syringing should be done at closing time, so as to have the foliage nearly 
dry before night. If the trees nave water hanging from the edges of 
the leaves in the morning, as sometimes occurs with very vigorous trees, 
omit the afternoon syringing. 
Ileeling-in the Shoots .—This should commence early, as it requires 
to be done carefully so as not to bring the shoots down too sharply, yet 
it is necessary that it be done ; indeed, it is of the utmost importance 
where symmetrical training is considered, and in securing the growths 
to the trellis that space must be left for the swelling of the shoots. 
Trees Started Early in March .—Syringing must cease when the 
anthers show' clear of the petals, but a genial condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere should I'C secured by damping available surfaces in the morning 
and early afternoon. Prevent a vitiated atmosphere by leaving a little 
air on eonstantl.y by the top vent'lators. The night temperature should 
be 50°, falling 5° or more through the night in severe weather, 50° to 
55° by day, and 05° from sun heat. The inside border must not lack 
moisture. 
Latest Houses .—The trees have the blossoms opening, and as they 
are very abundant thin them well, particularly on the under side of the 
shoots. Failing bees (which are the best fertilisers) shake the trees 
daily from the first pollen lipening until the la.st of the blossom needs 
attention, selecting the early part of fine days w'here artificial impreg¬ 
nation is resorted to, and it is a capital plan to dust every blossom when 
the pollen is ripe with a camel’s-hair brush, a feather, or some other 
light substance. Any trees deficient of pollen should have some taken 
from those that afford it plentifully, as the small-flowered varieties 
usually do. The temperature should be maintained at 40° to 45° at 
night, 50° to 55° by day, in all cases accompanied by slight ventilation 
at the top of the house, which must be increased when the temperature 
reaches 50°, and full at 05°. 
Unheated Houses .—The buds are, despite the weather and the lights 
being off until the middle of March, swelling rapidly. Observe 50° for 
ventilating, and do net allow an advance above 05° without full venti¬ 
lation both top and bottom, and close the house at 65° when there is a 
prospect of frost at night, but leaving on a little air to allow of 
moisture escaping. In mild weather leave the ventilation on when the 
temperature is over 50°. As there is a superabundance of blossom buds 
remove those on the under side of the trellis. 
PLANT HOUSE8. 
Azaleas .—Ghent and mollis v.arieties of Azaleas as they cease flower¬ 
ing should be protected in a cool house or in fr<ames until the weather is 
sufficiently genial to plant them outside. If turned out of warm houses 
and planted at once the young growth they have formed is generally 
killed and the plants seriously injured. This treatment weakens them 
to such an extent that they are at least two years before they are again 
in a fit state for forcing. If well cared for and allowed to develope 
their growth in a cool house, and then plunged outside towards the end 
of May or early in the following month, they will set buds freely and be 
in the-best possible conrtition for early forcing. The same treatment 
should be accorded such Rhododendrons as Early Gem, prmcox, multi- 
florum, and others. They (lower profusely every year when confined to 
