308 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 12, 18*8. 
six fine-folia^ecl plants, the second prize going to Mr. W. Dobson, and 
the third to Mr. H. St. Vincent Ames (Mr. W. Bannister, gardener). The 
Last named was the most successful with specimen Ferns, Mr. J. Derham 
also having a good exhibit, and was second. Azaleas were poorly shown, 
the first prizes in two instances being rightly withheld. The principal 
ic.'chibitors of these were Messrs. H. C. Miles, J. Dole, and T. W. Gibson. 
Mr. J. Derham was first for four stove or greenhouse plants in flower, 
and Mr. H. C. Miles second. Table plants were well shown by H. St. V. 
Ames, who was first, and Mr. F. Tagart (Mr. E. Miller, gardener) was a good 
second. Mr. T. W. Gibson was well first for Roses in pots, and Mr. J. Dole 
second, and Mr. H. St. V. Ames had the liest forced hardy plants. 
Mr. J. (J. Wall (Mr. J. H. Vallance, gardener) was first for Lily of the Valley, 
and Mr. W. K. Wait second. Mr. J. Derham first for Primulas, and Mr. 
H. St. V. Ames second. Mr. H. C. Miles first for Cinerarias, and Mr. 
J. Dole second. Dr. W. C. Trotman first for Mignonette, and Mr. W. K. 
Wait second. Mr. J. C. W.all first for Gloxinas, and Mr. E. T. Hill 
second, and Mr. T. Tagart first for A'^iolets in pots, and Mr. B. Hardwell 
•second, the exhibits in each instance being highly cralitable. Mr. T. 
Tagart was first for a specimen Orchid, and the best single flowering 
plant was shown by Mr. J. Derham. 
With cut flowers, vases, wreaths, and bouquets the competition was 
much keener, and many of the exhibits were exceptionally good. 
Messrs. Perkins & Sons, Coventry, were most successful, being first for 
bouquets, with and without Orchids, and limiteti to 1.5 inches in dia¬ 
meter, for a wreath, and also for sprays for ladies and buttonhole 
bouquets, altogether a noteworthy achievement. Messrs. Garaway and 
Co. were also successful in these classes, their exhibits fully deserving 
the prizes awarded. Mr. C. Winstone, Clifton, was second for a bouquet, 
and Mr. M. Hookings was third in another class. The last named was 
first for a vase of choice flowers, and Mr. E. T. Hill second, the arrange¬ 
ment in each instance being light and tasteful. The best stand of 
twelve bunches of cut flowers came from Mf. H. C. Miles, choice 
Orchids l>eing prineip.illy shown. Messrs. Cooling & Son, Bath, had a 
capital lot of cut Roses, and were placed first, the second prize going to 
Mr. T. W. Gibson. 
The best collection of vegetables was shown by Mr. H. St. V. Ames, 
the Broccoli being particularly good, and Mr. E. T. Hill was second. 
Mr. J. C. Wall was first for a neat brace of Cucumbers, and Mr. M. 
Dunlop second, the first named also receiving an extra prize for Mush¬ 
rooms. Mr. H. St. V. Ames was first for Apples, and Mr. E. T. Hill 
■second, and with Pears Mr. J. Derham was first, and Mr. E. T. Hill 
second. Several lots of Grapes were shown, Mr. J. C. Wall being first 
for good Lady Downe’s, and Mr. W. Iggulden, P’rome, second with the 
same variety. The last named took the first prize for Strawberries with 
•a fine dish of Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury ; Captain Alcock (C. Saun- 
Hers, gardener) being second with a good dish of Princess of Prussia. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus from Seed. —Asparagus seed can be purchased very 
cheaply, as it germinates freely, and half an ounce or 1 oz. will produce 
hundreds of roots. Early in April is a good time for sowing. In many 
cases it is sown in what may be termed a nursery bed, the roots being kept 
there for a year or two and then transplanted to their permanent quar¬ 
ters. Good plantations have been secured in this way. We have prac¬ 
tised it often, but if a good bed is desired quickly the seed should be 
sown in the position the plants are to occupy. If only a bed is wanted 
select a good position, add a quantity of sand and manure to the soil, 
fork it well in, and then open drills 1 foot apart. Do not sow the seed 
all along them, but drop a few seeds in at a distance of 1 foot apart and 
cover them. Several young plants may appear ; allow three or four of 
them to remain, and if undisturbed many good “ sticks ” may be cut 
from them the third year. Large plantations may be formed in the 
same way, but the rows may be kept 18 inches apart in their case, and 
if the ground appears vacant between the rows when the plants are 
eeen, a row of Spinach or Lettuces may be had between the rows of 
Asparagus. 
Transplanting Asparagus.— Roots of all ages may be trans¬ 
planted. If an old bed is very thin of roots, lift the whole and plant 
■a .ain close together. They will not bear so well the first year after 
■shifting as they might do if left alone in the old place, but they will 
soon recover from the transplanting. Where young roots are close 
together in the seed beds lift them carefully and fill blanks in old beds 
or form new one.s. They all delight in a rich open well-drained .soil. 
Let the roots extend when placed in the ground without being twisted 
or cramped, and if planted 3 inches below the surface they will do well. 
Vre always transplant our Asparagus during mejist weather, as a dry 
atmosphere checks the growth severely, and the sooner they are 
replanted after being taken up the better. 
Stimulants for Asparagus. —The desire alw.iys is to have 
Aspar.agIS as large as possible, and everything is iven to them that is 
likely to increase the size of the heals. Where the plantations are large 
it is impossible to give them all liquid manure, but where the bed is 
only a small one liquid manure may be applied at this season with ad¬ 
vantage. Guano water, soot water, and water from the cowshed or 
stable are all suitable, and if a little guano, salt, soot, or artificial 
manure is sprinkled round the crowns when it is raining the roots and 
stems will soon show the benefit. It is better to give them a little once 
a week for the next six weeks than to overdress them at once. 
New Se-^ikale Plantations. —Seed may be sown in the same way 
as advised for Asparagus, but it is only beginners in its culture that 
need to sow seed, as all who possess any plants can increase it and form 
new plantations more quickly than by seed-sowing. If the roots have 
been lifted and forced take them from the pots, boxes, or beds in which 
they are stored, cut each crown with a piece of root 3 inches long 
attached, and the remainder of the root may be cut into similar lengths. 
Keep all the roots with crowns attached together, and plant them in 
rows 2 feet apart and 1.5 inches between the plants. Give them rich 
deep soil, and merely leave the crown visible above the surface. These 
will bear a crop of Kale next spring, and if the roots that were cut into 
lengths are planted in the same way, but with 18 inches from row to 
row, ami 1 foot from set to set, they will form excellent plants eighteen 
months hence. This is a good way of securing young healthy plants for 
a new Seakale plantation ; Seakale which has been covered for forcing 
should now be exposed. 
Increasing Rhubarb. —This can be raised from seed, also roots 
maj^ be divided and replanted. This is our favourite way of increasing 
Rhubarb. When the stools are very large they are cut down the 
middle with a spade. One part is allowed to remain undisturbed, but 
the other is lifted out of the ground and divided into two or three 
pieces, and each of these is planted. For a little while at first these 
will not grow so strongly as the part allowed to remain in the ground, 
but by the autumn they will be as strong as if they had never been 
disturbed, and a good new plantation may be secured in one year in 
this way. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. —These should be grown in every garden, 
as they are most useful in winter. When once they are introduced they 
readily take care of themselves ; they are almost as difficult to eradicate 
as Horseradish. If allowed to grow for a year or two they become such 
a mass that the tubers do not gain any size, but they should be lifted 
every spring, a few of the best selected for planting again and the others 
kept in hand for use. .lust now is the time to plant them. Keep the 
rows 2 feet apart, and 15 inches from tuber to tuber will allow the crop 
to develope freely. We have plantetl our Jerosalem Artichokes on the 
same ground for ten years, and they are as fine now as in the first 
season. 
Globe Artichokes.— Globe Artichokes are more tender and more 
difficult to cook, but as much valued by some, though not cared for by 
others. They are, however, a high-class vegetable, and every pro¬ 
fessional gardener ought to grow them. They may be raised from seed 
sown in the open, and they are easily increased by dividing the plants. 
This should be done in April, and established plants should have the 
manure or protectors removed from their stems and a quantity of good 
manure forked in near their roots before they have advanced in growth 
to anj' extent. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earlicat Forced Trccn in Fotn. —Early V'iolet and Early I'lO- 
lific, though small, are desirable from affording fruit in advance of the 
large-fruited varieties. The fruit showing signs of ri( ening, watering 
must be gradually reduced and syringing must cease, but those swelling 
the fruit should be assisted with liquid manure twice a week, syringing 
the trees at closing time. A circulation of warm rather dry air should 
be secured when the fruit is ripening. A temperature of 60° to 6.5° at 
night, 70° to 75° by day, advancing to 80° or 85° from sun heat, is 
suitable. 
Farlif Forced Plantrd-ont 7’rcc.i. —No other fruit tree produces 
surface roots so abundantly as the Fig, if measures be t.aken to encourage 
them by means of a mulch 3 or 4 inches thick of partially decayed 
manure given wh‘-n the trees are fairly in growth. This, if kept in a 
moist state, will be full of active feeders by the time the trees need the 
most assistance in order to perfect the crop. Trees in borders of limited 
extent should be well supplied with water or liquid manure as necessary. 
Syringe twice a day. Ventilate freely in favourable weather, which will 
secure stout growth and leathery healthy foliage. No fruit is more 
benefited by the full rays of the sun than the Fig. Any kind of shading, 
whether by other plants or too much of their own foliage, is injurious 
and must be strictly guarded against by pinching out the young growths 
in the later houses and thinning out all the overcrowded shoots. The 
temperature should be maintained at 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by 
day, advancing to 80° to 85° from sun heat. 
Succpgiiion Houges. —Proceed with tying-in, thinning and regulating 
the terminal shoots, stopping the spurs at the fourth or fifth leaf, and 
the laterals from these at the first or second leaf. Mulch the borders 
with short manure if not already done. Maintain the night temperature 
at 55° to 60° at night, 65° by day artifici.ally, 70° to 75° from sun heat, 
which ought not to be exc eded without full ventilation, as it is very 
important the growth be stout and the foliage have good substance. 
When the trees are in full leaf the night temperature should be maintained 
at 60° to 65°, and 70° by day, allowing it to rise to 80° or 85° from sun 
heat. 
Unheoted Ifongcg. —The trees must now have the protection removal, 
eventually pruning the trees, thinning t’ae Iea->t fruitful growths and the 
