314 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Apri) 19, 1888. 
longest roots were shortened, and the plants placed at once into 
their largest pots, using two-thirds loam and the rest decomposed 
manure. They were potted firmly, and afterwards plunged in 
coal ashes until the pots were full of roots and the plants required 
more room, when they were treated in the usual way to secure good 
crowns and have them well ripened before storing away. My 
object in writing is to let you know that the plants have more than 
answered my expectations, for those that have just fruited have 
borne a much heavier crop than I could have had from maiden 
plants. The varieties are President, James Veitch, and Vicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury. I send a fair sample of the ripe fruit of each, 
also a specimen of the fruit as it set on the plants not thinned. If 
a similar difficulty should again occur in procuring runners those 
forced the previous season may with proper management be de¬ 
pended on for a crop a second season. I might mention that 
a short time after potting the plants produced some flowers, but 
these were carefully picked off.— Thomas Record. 
[The plant sent had seventy well set green fruits in different 
stages and a number of flowers to open. The ripe fruits were very 
handsome, and amply proved the success of the practice recom¬ 
mended.] 
CROTONS AS DECORATIVE PLANTS. 
The present is a capital time to set about the increase of the 
stock and the preparation of the plants for summer and autumn 
use in the house, as at those times, where foliage plants are appre¬ 
ciated, nothing surpasses Crotons either for the dinner table or in 
the decoration of rooms. The varieties are now so numerous that 
no difficulty need be experienced in forming a good collection. 
The narrow-leaved drooping varieties are most preferred, but some 
of the upright, broad-leaved sorts are equally valuable for some 
positions. The brightest coloured varieties are much the best, as 
green or dull-coloured foliage plants can always be had. To keep 
up a stock of serviceable plants, cuttings should be struck in the 
autumn, using 2|-inch pots, in which the plants can be wintered in 
the stove, choosing a position near the glass, where they will not be 
drawn up weakly ; nor should they long remain dry at the roots, 
or a loss of the lower leaves will take place, much to the disfigure¬ 
ment of the plants. This is a good time to give such plants their 
first shift from the cutting pots into those 4 inches in diameter, 
using a compost of equal parts peat and loam, a small quantity of 
leaves partly decayed, a dash of finely ground bones, some char¬ 
coal, and a plentiful addition of sharp silver sand. Some persons 
use no loam, but add sphagnum moss instead. To my mind this 
compost is much too porous ; the loam adds solidity to the growth, 
and the foliage is retained much longer. In potting, press the soil 
about the roots firmly ; growth theu is more sturdy, and the leaves 
of a better colour. Replace the plants on the shelf close to the 
glass, where they can be exposed to the sun, as without it the 
foliage will not colour brightly. Where such a position is not 
available a capital makeshift can be adopted by drilling three holes 
in a triangular form into an ordinary saucer or feeder, just below 
the rim ; to these holes place three wires, the length to be guided 
by the height of the plant. Inside the saucer place another one, 
but smaller ; on this stand the plant, suspending the whole from a 
nail driven into the rafters of the roof. Crotons in this manner, 
particularly the drooping varieties, are not at all objectionable in 
appearance, while the position for their welfare is one of the best 
obtainable. Short, stout shoots taken off now, inserted singly in 
small pots of sandy soil, placed in a propagating frame ovir a 
brisk bottom heat, quickly form roots and grow into useful decora¬ 
tive plants by the autumn or end of the summer. It is a mistake 
to overpot Crotons ; it is much better to use a substantial kind of 
compost, giving water freely to the roots, varying it occasionally 
with weak liquid manure, when the pots are well filled with roots. 
A lack of water during summer quickly renders the plants shabby 
by a loss of the lower leaves, and discolouration of many of the 
others. 
To obtain plants for immediate use, well clothed with foliage, 
the process known as “ ringing ” must be employed, which is done 
in the following manner. Any plant with only one stem or more, 
which has been in constant use and lost its lower leaves, should 
have a ring cut around the stem about half an inch wide, removing 
the bark at that place at a distance of from 6 inches to 1 foot from 
the top. Around this incision wrap some moss, to which has been 
added some sand ; tie the moss on tightly, and keep it moist by 
frequent syringings during the daytime. Roots will quickly form 
in the moss, and when they show through to the oiCside of the 
moss cut off the shoots and place them into pots sufficiently large 
to contain the roots, moss and all. Place the plants in a propa- 
gatinp' case, or under handlights, excluding air until new roots are 
formed in the S' il, when it may be gradually admitted until free 
exposure will not harm them. If the syringe is used vigorously 
amongst Crotons, as it should be, mealy bug cannot increase. 
The following are good varieties for decoration in a small 
state :—■ 
Drooping varieties. —Picturatus, green, blotched with red ~ 
Sinitzinianus, golden blotched ; nobilis, red ; angustifolius and 
aureus, both belonging to the golden class ; Johannis, long 
leaves, marked with yellow ; Warreni, having long twisted red 
leaves ; majesticus and interruptus, two older red-leaved sorts, still 
useful for their hardy qualities. Many more might be added, but 
these are all well-tried varieties. 
Erect varieties .—Queen Victoria, Williamsi, and Hanburyanus 
are useful varieties, with red foliage ; while the best yellow Crotons 
are Morti, Hawkeri, Disraeli, and variegatus.—S. 
VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION. 
ONIONS. 
Tripolis .—These are usually included in the collections of vege¬ 
tables shown in June, July, and frequently to the end of August. 
They are also the best to enter in the classes for the heaviest Onions. 
The seed ought to be sown late in .August or the first week in 
September, on good well manured ground, and in drills 12 inches 
apart. If a few are wanted extra early the seed may be sown on 
a sheltered sunny border, those not disturbed at the thinning out 
time usually being the first to bulb. As a rule an open piece of 
ground is best, or it may be near where the Onion beds are even¬ 
tually to be formed. If the plants are at all crowded they ought to be 
lightly thinned in the autumn, otherwise they should not be dis¬ 
turbed. The ground may be deeply dug or bastard trenched during 
the winter, plenty of solid manure being mixed with every spit, 
one end of this to be devoted to the Tripolis, and the remainder to 
the spring-sown Onions. As early in the year as the state of the 
soil permits dress with plenty of road grit, if procurable, and 
also a mixture of soot and common salt—one peck of the latter to 
three of soot—this being applied in moderation, a bushel being 
sufficient for every 16 square yards. Fork this well in without 
disturbing the manure underneath, and leave the ground loose. 
As early in March as it is possible to work on the ground without 
making it pasty, transplant the Onions. Do not drag them out of 
the soil, but prefer rather to ease them up with a fork so as to 
save as many roots as possible. A few may be left about 6 inches 
apart in the seed bed to mature, and the strongest of those lifted 
be replanted. Open wide flat drills 12 inches apart and 2 inches 
deep, arrange the plants 6 inches apart, spread out the roots, and 
cover firmly with the soil. Some of the plants invariably run to 
seed, and these may be drawn and used early, those left on the 
ground being all the better for the extra space given. White 
Naples is the earliest to bulb, and can be had good in June. 
Later on I prefer either the Giant White Madeira or Giant White 
Tripoli. Giant Rocca is the heaviest, and may be shown in the 
single classes, but is not so telling in a collection as the flat white¬ 
skinned varieties. 
Spring-soivn Onions .—I have already described a good method 
of preparing the ground, but omitted to add that, provided it is not 
done too soon, it cannot be made too firm for Onions generally. 
Loose deeply cultivated rich ground invariably encourages rank 
growth, large, late-maturing, thick-necked Onions being the result. 
Making the ground firm prevents this, and I have alw'ays observed 
the handsomest bulbs are produced on the ground dressed w ith road 
grit. The finest spring-sown Onions are obtained by sowing the 
seed early in February in pans or boxes of fine soil, setting these 
in heat until the seeds germinate. The seedlings should not 
be shaded in any way, and when about 5 inches high they may 
be gradually hardened, and finally planted out in rows 12 inches 
apart and 6 inches apart in the row. Although comparatively small 
when put out, they will yet be considerably in advance of any raised 
in the open ground, and will maintain the lead throughout. Fine 
bulbs can be obtained in this manner early enough for the August 
shows. 
Those who are content to sow' in the open ground only may do 
so as early in March as the weather permits. If a good seed bed 
cannot be had, nor the ground trampled during the first week in 
March, w'ait another w'eek or two for better weather. The drills to 
be 12 inches apart and rather shallow, the seed being sown thinly, 
fixed with the foot, and then carefully covered. Keep the flat hoe 
going among all advancing crops of Onions, this keeping down the 
weeds, also preventing binding of the soil, followed by cracking and 
the rapid evaporation of moLture. Thin the plants early, leaving 
