April 2(!, 1888. ] 
JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
315 
all exceptionally good, seedlings of bright colours and strong habit. 
Messrs. Douglas and Paul & Son followed in these classes, the last named 
gaining first honours for six double Primroses, the Double Sulphur, 
White and Purple, with the pink and white Harlequin and the mauve 
Croussei plena being the best. Mr. Douglas and H. Selfe Leonnard, 
Esq., Hitherbury, St. Catherine's, Guildford, being second and third. 
J. T. D. Llewelyn, Esq., was adjudged the chief award for twelve 
Primulas, the collection comprising excellent plants of rosea, denticu- 
lata, officinalis var. suaveolens, cortusoides, obconica, japonica, in- 
volucrata, the yellow Auricula, and a small flowered variety doubtfully 
named erosa. With half a dozen Primulas Mr. Barlow took the lead 
with capitally flowered plants of obconica, denticulata, floribunda, 
nivalis, rosea, and viscosa ; Messrs. Paul & Son following closely. 
There were several exhibits of Primulas that are noted in the report 
of the Floral Committee, but the non-competing exhibits under the 
Auricula Society were few. The most noteworthy wore plants of a 
double yellow Auricula with undulated petals, giving the flowers a 
fringed appearance. 
A luncheon was held in the afternoon at the “ Hotel Windsor.” 
There was a good attendance of members and friends, presided over by 
Sir Trevor Lawence, Bart., M.P., supported by some members of the 
Council of the Royal Horticultural Society, the vice-chair being 
occupied by Mr. Samuel Barlow, the eminent northern florist, who was 
also supported by a portion of the Council. 
CROPS THAT PAY. 
Oxioxs.—The season has been anything but favourable for 
autumn-sown Onions. It is true they have struggled to grow at 
different times, but have by sudden changes in the weather been 
repeatedly checked. The rows will be thinned and the thinnings 
transplanted on deeply dug well manured land 1 foot between the 
rows and about 4 inches between the plants. By planting in rows 
the ground is easily kept clean by freely working the hoe amongst 
them. Nothing promotes rapid growth more than constantly work¬ 
ing the soil and strewing between the rows during showery weather 
a little nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia two or three times 
during the season. This should not be done before the bulbs com¬ 
mence swelling freely, or they are liable to run to seed. In planting 
only secure the roots in the soil ; it is a great mistake to plant 
them too deeply, for they swell better when the greater portion* of 
the bulb is above ground. The crop transplanted remains upon the 
ground and is ripened as early as possible, so that they can be dis¬ 
posed of before any of the spring-sown crop finds its way into the 
market or foreign produce is sent over. Hoe between the rows 
when the surface is dry, and a dressing of soot may be given with 
advantage during showery weather after they are once growing 
freely. These should not be severely thinned, for if a crop is to be 
ripened on the ground the final thinning must take place when they 
are large enough for bunching. 
Our practice is to ripen only the transplanted crops and dispose 
of the others in a green state. This has proved the most remune¬ 
rative course, as a profitable crop of white Turnips for bunching 
or Leeks can be taken from the same ground afterw'ards. Last 
summer was certainly an unfavourable one for Onions, and our 
crops were lighter than they have been for years ; but the price 
has been good, and with good management they can be growm to 
pay. 
Onions will follow almost any crop, but for years we have 
avoided sowing them on ground that has previously been occupied 
with any of the Brassica tribe. If this course is follow'ed they are 
on most soils certain to be destroyed by grub. One of the worst 
practices is to plough or dig in the old stems of Cabbages or 
Broccoli. This may sound well scientifically considered, but while 
they doubtless return to the soil a certain amount of plant food that 
would otherwise be carried awa}^ on the other hand they do 
more harm than good by providing food for the preservation of 
grubs and other insects to ravage the succeeding crop. My advice 
is burn them, for this is a certain method of destroying any insects 
that may be lurking about. Onions like deeply dug well manured 
soil, ground that has been turned up in early autumn being most 
suitable, for it invariably works well, and an excellent bed for the 
seed is the result. The manure is forked in if possible the same 
day as the seed is sown, and a good dressing of soot is applied at 
the same time as the manure. If a fine day is selected for the 
operation the surface dries quickly, and a roller is passed over it 
once or twice. Shadow drills 1 foot apart are drawm and the seed 
sown. The seed is covered by merely drawing the back of a large 
wooden rake over the drills. This leaves the di-ills visible, and the 
hoe can be first used directly they commence showing through. 
When the hoe is at w’ork thus early it is surprising how much 
easier the ground is kept clean than is the case if the weeds are 
allowed to establish themselves before an attempt is made to 
eradicate them. The varieties grown w'ere Bedfordshire Champion, 
Brown Globe, and James’ Keeping, but the first only finds a place 
now. Why ? Because it produces on our land a heavier crop of 
larger produce than the last mentioned, and Brown Globe in some 
seasons produces too many “ thick necks.” Flat Onions, either for 
autumn or spring sowing, are useless for market purposes ; they do 
not pay, they are too light in w'eight. Thinning is not practised to 
a large extent, and then if a few go off by grubs or mildew there 
is almost certain to be a crop. What are draw’n are left until they 
are large enough to bunch and sell. 
Leeks.— Leeks pay very well as a second crop, and fortunately 
are not much trouble. They are a more certain crop than such 
Broccoli as Snow’s, Osborn’s, Yeitch’s Spring White, and others 
that turn in about the same time. Without considerable labour 
and expense in protecting the latter they are very liable to be killed 
by severe fro.sts, or to be rendered useless just as the heads 
appear. The last is generally their fate, and consequently they 
must, for all situated as I am, give place to crops that are certain 
to pay. My advice to each one is. Study the locality in which you 
reside and plant accordingly, for it is much better to dispense with 
the second crop than have three parts of a first crop in order to 
provide for a second that is an uncertainty. Leeks then are a sure 
crop, and the seed for the main crop is sown by the side of the 
Onions, only much thicker. Most plants are spoiled in their early 
stages by being sown too thickly or left too long before they are 
thinned, but Leeks seem to be an exception to this rule. 'They 
certainly draw up quickly, and attain a greater length before they 
are planted, which is a decided advantage. 
To give some idea of our method of sovping, I may say H oz. is 
enough for two rows 23 to 25 yards long each. 'The plantings 
from these are for winter and spring supplies, while those for use 
up to Christmas or for a time after are raised by sowing in boxes. 
These are dibbled out during showery weather, moderately thick 
on any spare patches of ground. This crop follows early Potatoes 
(sometimes Lettuces) that are planted 2 feet from row to row. 
After the Potatoes are dug moderately deep drills are drawn one 
foot apart. If the ground is dry the drills are soaked with water, 
but we avoid this operation if possible, it is too costly, and soon 
tells heavily against the crop. It is sometimes necessary. The 
Leeks are planted in these trenches with a dibble, the only care 
needed is to have the holes deep enough so that the roots go straight 
down, and do not bury the heart of the plant. These are placed in 
the row 7 inches apart. The drills made are filled by using the hoe 
amongst the plants. By this method of planting the greater portion 
is well blanched at lifting time without further trouble. These 
seldom attain the same size as those p'anted for lifting during the 
months of March, April, and as long as they can be kept. Two 
and three, according to their size, are placed in bunches, after the 
soil has been washed from their stem and roots, and twelve bunches 
are tied in a bundle. In spring, when they have attained a fair 
size, one practically forms a bunch ; in fact, I have had no diffi¬ 
culty in selling them by the dozen. Those sown outside very fre¬ 
quently follow a crop of Cabbage, early Cauliflowers, or late 
Broccoli, with us generally the two first. These are planted the 
same as the others, only 2 inches farther apart, and the ground is 
dug, which is not done when planted after Potatoes. 
Leeks will be doubly appreciated this spring, for green vege¬ 
tables are scarce. Spring Cabbages are late, and in some instances 
have disappeared where the plants were small and weak at the 
approach of winter. Leeks keep a very long time in good condition 
if lifted now and laid in behind a north wall, a hedge, or anything 
that will answer the same purpose. 
I promised to detail how to grow a late crop of Tomatoes, 
and for this purpose the seed should be sown at once. Further 
instructions shall be given in time to be of service.— M.vrketei!. 
GLADIOLI NOTES. 
The Time for Planting. —Although in a few respects my 
experience differs from that of “ D., Beal," described on page 295, the.se 
few notes may be consitlcred siqiplementary as with most of that 
article my results, extending over nearly twenty years, agree. Mr. 
Kelway was right in saying seasons govern results,” and this applies 
also to planting. The major portion of my corms, .say 400, were idanted 
ill mid-February, as during January and up to that time here the 
weather was spring-like. Had I known what was coming I should have 
kept them out of the ground then. However, I now see many 
‘•spearing” through the bc ls, and though, owing to the low temperature 
of the soil, a few may have decayed, 1 am not sorry to have planted so 
early. The Gladiolus adapts itself to different treatment, so much so 
that those who plant now may have splendid spikes of bloom before 
frost next December. I was rather surprised to find that Mr. James 
Douglas likes to begin planting on the 1st of March and finishes about the 
1 st of May, at intervals of a fortnight, the object presumably being to 
have them blooming at different times over a more extended period. 
This seems unnecessary, as planted at the same time, one (say Shakspeare) 
will bloom in July or the beginning of August, and no amount of induce- 
