390 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 10,1838. 
Young Feuit Trees. —These now require attention, and in fact 
must not be neglected at any time through the growing season. In the 
first place all that are newly planted, and any that have not made 
satisfactory progress since they were moved, ought to have nearly or 
quite all the flowers cleared oS them at once. Strong trees planted early 
in the season may he allowed to perfect a sprinkling of fruit, especially 
if not wanted to cover much wall or other space quickly, but to let those 
put out late make the attempt to swell ofi as many fruits as they will is 
very unwise. This phase of “ gardener’s greed ” is one of the causes for 
€0 many trees becoming stunted and comparatively worthless. A 
moderate crop of fruit on trees that this season give signs of growing 
vigorously will, however, prevent grossness, and probably avert the 
necessity for root-pruning to induce fruitfulness. 
Peaes. —Espaliers or horiz Dntally trained trees of these or Apples 
will in most instances have formed a cluster of young shoots on the 
shortened leader. These should be freely thinned, so as to leave a good 
central shoot to continue the lead and two others for laying in on each 
side in an oblique rather than horizontal direction, these being intended 
to develope into another pair of permanent side branches. At the point 
of each already formed side branch several growths will attempt to 
form. Supposing no pruning had been resorted to as advised the 
strongest shoot will be at the point. Keserve this and duly lay it in, the 
rest being freely thinned out, and any left stopped at the third or fourth 
joint. All other lateral growth should also be thinned out or disbudded, 
leaving only those facing outwards, these also being stopped at the fourth 
joint. This will divert much of the sap to the support of the leading 
branches, and lead to the early formation of serviceable trees. Cordon.« 
of any description require much the same treatment as to thinning out 
and stopping, the main branch or lu'anches only being allowed to grow 
unstopped. Maidens as wmll as older trees planted last year, and not 
shortened in any way, made but little progress, but in addition to 
flowering freely give promise of growing strongly. It is the much- 
pruned trees that fail to bear well. 
Plums. — Many of those planted against walls or fences this 
season, and not pruned in any way, will form little or no top growth 
during the summer, but they will m.ake good progress at the roots and 
start away strongly next year. Should they start into active growth 
it will be necessary to remove some of the shoots and stop many 
more at the fourth or fifth joint, leaving those only to run out that 
are required for furnishing the wall spice. Whether they start 
strongly this season or not, laying on the branches as received from 
the nurseries is a quicker method of furnishing the walls than the 
plan sometimes adopted of cutting back all the main branches. Sup¬ 
posing they only form a few leaves and buds this season, next year 
they will grow vigorously and also perfect a few fruits. It is advisable 
to lay in young shoots on the upper side of the main branches, and 
according as they extend, other branches being required to fill in 
between the widening spaces. If the central branch has been cut 
back with the view of obtaining more shoots for the centre of the tree, 
timely selecting and thinning out should be resorted to, about three 
of the best placed shoots being laid in. , 
Cheeeies. —Those against walls arc usually pruned and trained 
similarly to Plums, the only exception being the Morello. The main 
branches of all but this variety should be clothed as soon as possible 
with short fruiting spurs, this being by no means difficult of attain¬ 
ment. They ought to be thinly trained, the main branches being not 
less than 9 inches apart, more shoots to be laid in wherever they are 
required. Thin out and stop as advised in the case of Plums. The 
Morello branches may be trained rather more thickly, also fan-shaped, 
on the upper side of these laying in a number of young shoots, these 
being destined to bear fruit for one year only and then cut away if not 
needed for furnishing, their places being taken by other younger 
branches saved the same year. Trees received and planted with eight 
or more well regulated growths not shortened in any way will not make 
much progress this summer, but next season will make up for this 
disappointment. Thin out the young shoots of any starting welt now, 
leaving one near the base on the upper side of each branch, another 
about the middle, and the leader. If there is a central branch one, or, 
if needed, two shoots may be laid in on both sides of these. A few of 
the foreright shoots on the main branches, or those growing outwards 
from the wall, may be lightly stopped, these fruiting next season, but 
the side growths not required for furnishing should be removed at once. 
Peaches and Nectaeines.— When strong, well-balanced, fan¬ 
shaped trees are planted it is advisable to shorten back the branches to 
about one-half of their length. It is late to prune them, but they may 
be disbudded, and that answers better than late pruning, the disbudded 
or upper half of the branch being cleanly cut away when the trees are 
in full leaf. Disbudding must also be resorted to in the case of the 
lower half of the branches, one shoot at the base on the upper side and 
a leader only being reserved, unless there is good room for another near 
he leader. These branches should be carefully laid in, and if the season 
is at all favourable they wdll ripen well and be fruitful next year. 
Young trees, the second year after planting, are apt to form shoots that 
are too rank and sappy to be serviceable. These may be detected quite 
early, as they are usually from the centre of a triple wood bud, and if 
removed early one of the sidevbuds may take its place with advantage. 
Later on strong shoots may be depressed and checked in growth, the 
removal of several leaves also checking them. If maidens are planted 
for the purpose of being grown into fan-shaped trees these ought to 
have been cut back to within 6 inches of the union of the scion with the 
stock. If this has not been done closely disbud all the upper growth, 
and reserve about three shoots only on each side of the lower portion of 
the stem, these to be kept laid in to their full length. Those to bo 
trained with a central stem in an oblique direction, and fruiting 
branches laid in right and left, should have a central growth reserved in 
addition to the six or more side branches. This method of training is 
to be commended to those who wish to furnish a high wall quickly, and 
also where the tiees do not last many years. 
Apeicots. —These may be trained and pruned on the spur system, 
similarly to Plums, or they may be trained and fruited exactly the same 
as Peaches. The former is the method most generally adopted, but the 
latter, though it entails rather more labour, is the most profitable in the 
long run. 
FKUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Trees Started at the New Year.—" 
The fruit is stoning, and must not be subjected to a higher tempe¬ 
rature than 60° to 65° by artificial means, commencing to ventilate 
at 65°, and not allowing 75° to be exceeded without full ventilation. 
Tie in the shoots as they advance, removing superfluous growths, as it 
is important that no more be trained in than can be fully exposed to 
light and air. If the shoots are crowded thin them well as soon as 
the stoning is completed. Allow one fruit to every square foot of 
trellis covered with foliage, which will be one to each shoot of last 
year, although vigorous shoots may be allow'ed to carry two fruits; by 
apportioning the fruit according to the vigour of the trees or degrees 
of vigour the evenness of vigour may be maintained throughout the 
tree. After stoaing, maintain a good moisture in the house, and water 
the inside border copiously, which in well drained borders will not be 
required less than once a week, mulching the surface- with about 
2 inches thickness of short half-decayed manure. Unless it is desired 
to accelerate the ripening, continue 60° to 65° as the night temperature, 
and 65° artificially by day in dull weather, and 75° with sun heat, 
closing at the latter with plenty of moisture in the house. In a high 
temperature and moist atmosphere Peaches swell to a great size after 
stoning, but are not so tempting in appearance nor so well flavoured as 
those in less heat and moisture and with freer ventilation. 
Trees Started in February. —The fruit of these will soon be com¬ 
mencing stoning, and should have the number reduced, leaving two 
fruits on strong shoots, but one will be sufficient on the weaker. The 
fruit retained must, in all instances, be best situated for receiving air 
and light. Thin the shoots where crowded. The temperature by arti¬ 
ficial means may be kept at 55° to 60° at night, and 60° to 65° by day 
artificially, ventilating from 65°, and fully between 70° and 75°. 
Trees Started in March. —The fruit is swelling and requires to be 
freely thinned. It can now be seen which fruits have taken the lead. 
Two or three will be ample to leave on strong shoots, and proportionately 
less on w-eaker growths. Afford liquid manure to weakly tress, but 
vigorous trees being more prone to east the fruit must have clear water 
only. Remove all superfluous shoots, the i eniaining shoots being trained 
to the trellis as they advance. 
Late Houses. —The fruits are well set, and syringing will be needed 
in the morning and on fine afternoons to rid the trees of the remains of 
the flowers. Commence thinning when the fruits are the size of horse 
beans, removing the smallest and worst placed, leaving very few more 
fruit than will ultimately be required for the crop. Disbudding and 
heeling-in the shoots should be carefully attended to. A temperature 
of 50° at night will be safe, and 65° by day artificially, ventilating freely 
about that, unless it is desired to hasten the crop when a temperature of 
55° at night and 60° to 65° by day artificially may be secured, with 70° 
to 75° by day, ventilating from 65°. 
Uiihcated Houses —There has so far not been any frost to interfere 
with the prospect of the crop, which promises to be abundant, indeed 
the fruits have set splendidly, fully nine-tenths more fruit than will be 
required for the crop. A moderate syringing on fine mornings will be a 
great assistance in ridding the fruit of the remains of the blossoms, but 
there must not be any attempt at an afternoon syringing for the present, 
and no sprinkling practised likely to cause a moist temperature at night, 
as the weather is not yet to be depended on, and a sudden severe frost 
occurring whilst the house is moist is very much more likely to prove 
disastrous to the crop than if the atmosphere is dry. Ventilate at 50°, 
not allowing an advance above 65° without full ventilation, and close at 
50°, or before if there is a prospect of frost at night. If water be neces¬ 
sary apply it sufficiently early in the day to allow of the surface becom¬ 
ing fairly dry before closing time. 
Pines.— Changeable weather necessitates careful attention in the 
cultivation of Pines, especially as regards plants with the fruit in an 
advanced condition, a moderately high and moist temperature being 
necessary to their well being, which condition renders them more sus¬ 
ceptible of injury, the effect of sudden outbursts of sun telling dis¬ 
astrously, especially upon the crown, which is not infrequently scorched 
if the ventilation is not carefully attemled to. Large, well-finished 
fruit are only to be obtained by attention to details, especially when the 
