412 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 17,188?. 
WOKKJ0il'rHE\K^^EEK.. 
KITCHEN GAEDEN. 
Thinning Young Vegetables. —The recent weather has caused 
Carrots, Turnips, Parsnips, and otlier young vegetables to grow rapidly, 
and if they become very crowded much harm will bo done ; it is therefore 
most important that thinning receive attention. Some are afraid to 
thin early, as they think should some of the plants fail those remaining 
will take their place, but they are much more apt to fail when crowded 
to excess than when they can develope freely from the first, and if 
failure is to be avoided from lieginning to end, early thinning should 
invariably be practised. In thinning always draw up the weakest 
plant.s, and if they are left 3 inches or so apart the first time they 
can be thinned to the proper distance subsequently as they gain size. 
It is at first they are most apt to become crowded, and when once 
relieved their success is certain. Where the crops are extensive take 
a narrow Dutch hoe and push it through the rows, leaving a little bunch 
of plants every 3 or I inches, then thin these with the hand. A drag 
hoe may also be used for this puriwse. 
Kidney Beans. —Those in pots have been doing good service of 
late. At this season they fruit almost as freely as in the open, and it is 
a good plan to gather the po<ls frequently, as when they get the least 
old they have an injurious influence on the younger ones. If you want 
to cut the crop short allow the ])ods to remain on after the Beans begin 
to form inside them, but if constantly gathered before this occurs they 
will grow and swell freely to the last. As soon as they are all gathered 
throw the plants away, and do not allow them to remain in vineries or' 
Peach houses now, as red spider increases rapidly, and it is sure to spread 
to the fruit trees. The first crop has been sown in the open, but the 
plants are not yet through the soil, and if more is sown under protection 
they will pod before those in the open air are in flower. Potato frames 
are now being emptied, and the soil may be levelled down and the Beans 
sown as if in the open ground. 
Celery. —Plant all early Celery out in the trenches at once ; single 
rows are the best for fine choice heads. Do not apply too much manure 
to any of them. The best produce is secured from moderately rich soil. 
Make the soil very firm round the plants. Water thoroughly imme¬ 
diately after the planting is done should the weather be dry, and plant 
Lettupes on the top of the ridges between the trenches. Our finest 
Lettuces are secured from this position. Sow Celery seed for the 
autumn supply of plants in boxes or a frame ; give a little heat until 
the plants are 1 or 2 inches high, and then keep them cool and robust. 
Our old Celery is still lasting, but it is going to seed, and is only useful 
for flavouring. Do not throw any away until the new is ready. 
August Peas. —There will"bc some Peas ready in June and plenty 
in July, but good Peas arc scarce in August. This is a mistake. Peas 
may be more difficult to secure in August than July, but if as much 
attention were given to August Peas as to the first crops how useful they 
would be. It is dry weather that tells against August Peas, but if this 
was properly provided for they would always Ix! a success. The trench 
system of sowing should invariably be adopted. Form the trenches to 
the depth of 1 foot or 1.') inches, fork the manure well down Ijelow this, 
and then sow the seed 6 inches or so from the surface. The weather 
will have little or no influence over them then, the pods will form 
freely and the Peas come tender and juicy. Now is .the time for sowing 
Peas for bearing in August, and cultivators should try and do a few 
rows thoroughly well, as the produce would meet with much favour. 
Broccoli. —Veitch’s Model and Sutton’s Late Queen are now he.ad- 
ing well. The first is the better flavoured of the two, and should be 
grown largely for use in May. The present is a good time for noting the 
qualities of late sorts, and only the best should be grown in another 
season or sown now. If some of those which have not yet shown heads 
are dug up and laid in in a cool border they will be retarded for a fort¬ 
night, and will be very acceptable in cases where early Cauliflowers 
aie behind. All Broccoli seed should now be sown. Give it moderately 
good soil .and sow thinly. 
Cutting Asparagus. —We have not written of this before because 
until now we had little to eut. With us it is three weeks later than in 
the majority of seasons, but it is coming now, and evidently has not 
suffered by being hate. Established roots will not be injured by cutting 
every stalk that comes up <luring the next fortnight. The more good 
roots are cut the more are the growths that are dormant induced to 
grow. Careless cutters often only take the tops, .and cut the stems h.alf 
way up, but this is a great waste, as they are generally good down to 
the soil level, or a little below it, and every one should be cut as low .as 
this at least. 
Earthing up Early Potatoes. —The e.arly Potatoes in the 
borders are now 6 inches high. The whole of them should be earthed 
up. Use a drag hoe, draw the soil well up to the stems on each side, 
and this will protect the stems and prevent the surface tubers becoming 
green. 
Herbs. —Plants of Sage, Thyme, &c., requiring more room may now 
be transplanted. Give them rich soil. Keep Mine free from weeds. Give 
Sweet Basil more room under glass. It cannot yet be grown in the open. 
We keep it in pots or boxes until some of the frames are emptied of 
their spring crops, and then fill a frame with it. Do not grow superfluous 
herbs, but Mint, Sago, and Thyme are always wanted. The former may 
be increased by dividing the roots ; the latter two are easily raised from 
seed that should be sown now. 
Plant out a row or two of early Celery, transplant Asparagus without 
delay, make up blanks in early Cauliflower plantations, thin Turnips, 
sow more Pe.as, earth up Broad Beans, pull up all weeds, and sprinkle 
soot over autumn Onions, when the we.ather is favourable for such 
work. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Temperature .—The last few days of bright weather have 
greatly improved the condition of Vine foliage. Employ as little fire 
heat as possible, for with sun heat and plenty of atmospheric moisture 
more real benefit is gained in a week than in a month of dull weather 
with the aid of fires. The Vines being in full growth the temperature 
may be allowed to rise to 90° or 95°, closing the house at 85°, employing 
fire heat only to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75°, and to preventin 
falling below G5° at night. These remarks apply only to Vines 
in full growth, as those that have the Grapes .approaching ripening 
should have a rather free circulation of air, those well advanced lit 
ripening being kept cooler and drier. Air should be admitterl very 
early in the morning, as the sun’s rays act powerfully on the condensed 
moisture formed on the foliage during the night, causing scorching, 
unless air has been previously admitted. 
Watering .—It is usu<al to supply water at stated intervals—viz., to 
render the border thoroughly moist when starting the Vines, when the 
Grapes attain to thinning size, and when they are commencing to ripen. 
Those are very good as regards watering from a feeding point of view, 
and ought to be carefully attended to ; but inside borders must be 
watered more frequently. There are more failures from insufficient than 
over-watering, the borders being properly constructed and the drainage 
complete. Watering twice a week in the case of those with the roots 
restricted to borders of limited extent, and once a week for those that 
have a good run of border, is not too much from the Grapes swelling 
after thinning until the berries are changing colour. There is, however, 
a great difference in the retentive power of soils. Some loams are 
naturally very loose, sandy, or gravelly, and they have the usual opening 
materials added, as lime rubbish and charcoal, which m.akes them still 
more sieve-like; the consequence is the greater need of the watering 
pot, besides the danger attending the finish of Grapes grown on such 
soil through insufficient supplies of water leading to attacks of red 
spider and thin foliage, which does not store nearly so much assimilated 
m.atter as the thick and leathery le.aves on Vines in a firm soil of a rather 
retentive nature. Such soil will require water less frequently, but in no 
case must there be lack of moisture at the roots throughout the swelling 
period. 
IIowtBH of Ripe Grapex .—Afford firehe.at only to prevent the tempera¬ 
ture falling below 60°, and to admit of a rrither free circulation of air. 
Do not allow the border to become very dry, but keep it moist, and 
mulch with rather dry litter from which the dung is removed ; it will 
retain moisture a long time, and lessen the evaporation from the surface 
of the border, though a little moisture in the atmosphere is not injurious 
to the Grapes, and is highly beneficial to the foliage, which must be kept 
clean and healthy. Fumigation must be resort^ to if thrips appear ; 
for red spider there is no safer remedy than the tedious process of care¬ 
fully sponging the leaves with soapy water. A double thickness of 
herring nets should be placed over the roof lights where Black Ham- 
burghs are hanging in order to enable them to keep their colour. 
Late Vines .—These will be in flower in most places. Maintain a 
minimum temperature of 70° ; shaking the rods twice a day will be suf¬ 
ficient in most cases to distribute the pollen effectually, but in the case 
of shy setters fail not to resort to artificial fertilisation, going over the 
bunches carefully with a camel’s hair brush. All the large-berried 
varieties, such as Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, Ac., which are good 
setters, should be thinned while they are in flower, and with those that 
are liable to have very closely set berries it is a good plan to thin them 
before the flowers expand, as a practised eye can tell which flower buds 
by their vigour that are likely to set, and the removal of the weaker 
strengthens them wonderfully. Whilst the Vines are in flower do not 
pinch or stop the laterals, but when the blooms are fairly set remove the 
laterals at once, so as to iirevent overcrowding. 
Planting Growing Vines .—Those struck from eyes in February or 
March and grown on in pots or turves may from now to the early part 
of Juni be pl.anted out, giving them a good soaking with water at 90° 
to 100°, mulching the surface with a couple of inches of short rather 
lumpy manure. A humid atmosphere should be maintained, and shade 
afforded from bright sun until they become <!stablished. 
Figs. —Early Foreed Trees in Pots .—When the fruit has all been 
gathered remove the loose portion of previous mulcliings, and supply 
well decomposed manure, which will encourage root action and assist 
the trees to perfect the second crop. If the trees have become infested 
with red spider or scale thoroughly cleanse them by means of soapy 
w.ater and a soft brush or sponge, and ply the syringe freely twice a day. 
Although a second crop is serviceable a good first early crop is much 
more valuable ; therefore be content with a moderate second crop,ornone 
at all if the trees have been severely taxed by a heavy first crop, as they 
