May 17, 1888. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
413 
must have vigour to give a full crop when early forced j’ear after year ; 
therefore give them a chance to recuperate, make and perfect growth 
with ample stored up matter for a full crop another season. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Salriax .—These should be in a position where they can be hardened 
thoroughly for planting out by the end of the month in all localities 
that are free from late frosts. The tops of the shoots may be rooted, and 
these if stopped t ivice, once before planting out and once after, will 
make capital plants for placing in 6-inch pots in autumn. 
Houvardlas .—Plants that have been fairly hardened may be planted 
out in frames of light moderately rich material. They lift well in 
autumn when one-third or more of the compost consists of rough leaf 
mould. If possible select for them a position exposed to the sun where 
the bottom is firm, so that they will be compelled to root in the com¬ 
post given them. The frames can be kept closed for a time until the 
plants are well established, when they may be gradually hardened and 
the frame removed. If desirable to grow them in pots thoroughly 
harden them if forward enough, so that the pots can be plunged outside 
whenever the weather will permit of this being done. The shoots under 
both systems of culture should be pinched from time to time as they 
need it. When abundance of bloom is solely the object of the grower, 
the planting out system is the most economical method of culture that 
can be followed. They can be lifted with large b.alls of roots and placed 
on the bed of the house in which they are to flower without seriously 
checking them. Young plants now in 2 and 3-inch pots may be trans¬ 
ferred at once into others 2 inches larger. 
S(>la/iu7ii.‘i .—The earliest plants have commenced flowering ; they 
should be placed in cold frames, where air can be liberally admitted. 
Plunge the pots to prevent the soil drying too quickly ; if once the 
plants become dry at their roots the foliage will suffer, and if repeated 
many times it will have a sickly yellow instead of a dark green appear¬ 
ance. Syringing will not damage the flowers provided it is not done 
during damp dull weather, and it will assist in keeping the plants free 
from red spider. Pinch the shoots of young plants raised from cut¬ 
tings, and place them when ready into 5 and C-inch pots in a compost of 
loam, one-seventh of manure and sand. 
Heliotropes .—Plants that are intended for standards should be 
placed into 6-inch pots. They will do well in the compost advised for 
Solanums, with the addition of a little leaf soil. Grow them for the 
present in an intermediate temperature, and remove all shoots that issue 
from the axils of the leaves until the necesssary length of stem h.as 
been attained. Then they will be ready for 10-inch pots, their flowering 
size. If sufficient cuttings have not been rooted of White Lad}’’, the 
most useful light variety for winter flowering, they should be inserted 
at once. Directly they are rooted place them singly in 3-inch pots ; and 
pinch the shoots from time to time. Do not grow the plants too warm 
after they are started in their first pots. Have the plants well hardened, 
so that by the time they are ready for 5 and 6-inch pots they can be 
plunged in a sunny place outside. 
Mignonette. —Plant.® of tree varieties that are intended for standards 
and pyramids should be placed at once in 6-inch pots. Use a compost 
of good fibry loam two parts, one part of leaf mould, a liberal dash of 
sand may be added, and one-seventh of decayed manure. Place upright 
stakes to all the plants, whether intended for the former or the latter. 
I'or standards only one plant in each pot will be needed, from which all 
the lateral growths should be removed as they appear until the necessary 
length of stem has been produced. For pyramids have four plants in 
each pot, and the whole staked upright until they are placed in their 
flowering pots. The central one should have all laterals removed up to 
6 or 7 inches high, when it may be allowed to branch, but the main 
leaders must be trained upright. The remaining three plants may have 
the laterals removed for several inches, but the distance entirely depends 
upon the width of- the trellis at the base. At present they occupy an 
intermediate temperature, but artificial heat must be gradually dis¬ 
pensed with, so that by the end of the mouth they can be grown 
without any. 
Roses .—Such Poses as Marbchal Kiel, Gloire de Dijon, Pieine Marie 
Henriette, and others of similar growth that have been in cold houses 
have ceased flowering. These must be pruned hard, so that strong young 
wood can be laid in for another year. If left as they are such plants 
soon become a crowded mass of small growths, and poor flowers only are 
the result. If fine flowers are needed strong growth must be encouraged, 
and this is largely assisted by hard pruning. 
NOTES ON BEES. 
However hopeful we were at the beginning of April that the 
month ’would be favourable and genial alike to bees and vegetation, 
we were sadly disappointed, as more wintry weather could hardly 
be experienced in this country. In the north on only four nights 
of the month did the temperature remain above 25° Fahrenheit, 
and only two above 32°. The whole month throughout was of a 
much lower temperature than that of January, and consequently 
the bees were little out ; but M’hen they did venture many were 
lost. Only on part of two days they carried natural pollen, and 
until the 5th of May there had not been a chance to resume. 
Every day there was more or less rain and snow, some of the 
showers being very destructive to fruit buds, and were accompanied 
by high winds, aggravating the damage. Feeding in many cases- 
will have to be resorted to if bees are to be kept alive and in con¬ 
dition to gather honey should that time come during the summer 
of 1888. We do not remember such a cold spring since about 1842,. 
when in that or the subsequent year a foot of snow fell on the 15th 
May, breaking the trees, destroying all fruit blossoms, and killing 
nearly every young bee in and out of the nest. 
The effects of the protracted cold is prominently seen on the 
Snowdrops, not one seed pod being visible ; and as the Crocuses 
never opened these also are likely to be destitute of seed too. 
Many other h'ardy plants have disappeared. My Auriculas, Prim¬ 
roses, and Polyanthuses have been almost destroyed, not from the- 
cold alone, which, when unaccompanied by snow, seems to do them 
no harm, but whenever snow falls they are spoiled ; even the hardy 
Arabis is cut down. Contrary to the generally received opinion 
that snow protects vegetation, it is and always has been the reverse 
with me, and your correspondent, Mr. W. J. Murphy, Clonmel^ 
seems to be of the same opinion, with this difference, that the 
ill-effect with him is when sunshine occurs after snow. After snow 
my flowers are destroyed. For weeks this spring we never saw the 
sun, and although we had no deep snow still it was seldom absent, 
and has done its work. 
THE EFFECTS OF THE WINTER ON BEES. 
Owing to the long-continued cold the consumption of stores has 
been great and many hives have died, and O’wing to the mildness of 
January bees began to extend their brood more than is customary 
at that season, and queens that were older than six months, and 
perhaps unable now to keep up breeding through excess at the 
beginning, are deposed. Scarcely a post comes but brings a letter 
to that effect. I have in almost every case found this to be the 
case after inquiry. Young queens for stocks are the only guarantee 
we have for profitable hives during summer. 
Although my plans and ideas have been condemned in ne 
measured terms, it is a fact that the latter are approved. Even 
the “ powerful screw ” could not be dispensed with in the Raitt 
honey presser. Those who have unfortunately been led to adopt 
a presser different from the condemned Lanarkshire one will find 
there is no provision made in the Raitt honey presser to prevent 
the pollen being mixed with the honey, ’W’hich spoils it. I now 
explain what I would have done long since, but for obvious 
reasons withheld. When honeycomb is not free from pollen, as 
is often the case, the comb ought not to be placed upon its edge, 
but into a wider cylinder and laid fiat, the cylinder filled, and the 
pressure brought gradually upon the mass. Whenever the slightest 
particle of pollen is seen to make its escape, stop. This is most- 
important, and bee-keepers should become impressed with the fact. 
If they wish to succeed they must present to the public honey 
unalloyed and free from all impurities, and keep to tried appliances. 
BBLLGLASSES AND FIXING FOUNDATION. 
Although bee societies condemn bellglasses, and I do not approve 
of them, still bee-keepers, as a rule, derive pleasure from following 
out their own plans and contrivances, and many have a desire to see 
their bees at work in bellglasses, and to have the latter prettily 
filled for the table or for presentation. The difficulty of fixing 
the foundation or guides without sticks or smearing the glass with 
wax has hitherto been a barrier to bee-keepers. Foundation can 
be fixed to bellglasses, or glass for ornamental designs, without the 
beauty of the comb being spoiled by either sticks or wax. First 
cut narrow strips of paper and slightly gum on to outside of the 
glass the design wanted, then cut the foundation to proper lengths 
