428 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ May 24,1888. 
this old sea bed are far below the roots of those on the bold protecting 
semi-circular range, it will be understood how sheltered the position is, 
and suitable for early spring flowere. 
In their disposition the natural configuration of the ground has been 
steadily kept in view, and to this all arrangements have been subservient. 
In one place they recede into the hill on the right, a portion of which 
has at some time fallen away to make room for them ; in another they 
fall away into the lower ground to the left, as if they had ridden ofE on 
a landslip; indeed, some of the mounds that recede into the lawn below 
are landslips turned to account, and here the geological knowledge of 
Mr. Ingram has been displayed, for by the lack of it Nature could not 
have been followed with such fidelity, rock building would have been 
overdone, and incongruous heaps piled up unmeaningly. In some places 
the soil has been upheld, forming terraces with beds on the sloping 
ground below. This is somewhat gardenesque, the link, so to say, 
between the smooth and trim at one end of the promenade and the 
wildness at the other. But the terraced portions look more pleasingly 
irregular now than when the sketch (see fig. 57) was made. The work 
was new then, but mellowed with age now, and the sharp edges worn 
off; besides, as “ D., Beal," hoped it would be, there has been an exten¬ 
sion of the free and more natural in planting and a restriction of the 
formal, and he would be delighted with Belvoir now. The sketch was 
obtained by him and the engraving introduced in the following words, 
and I can imagine no others more appropriate—“ One likes to linger on 
these slopes, and the clever sketch by Mrs. Ingram, who is an artist of no 
slight merit, will give some idea of the situation ; and as one stands on 
the upper portion and looks down on the carpet of green, backed by the 
feathery growth and elegant foliage of the Birch it is hard indeed to 
tear oneself away ; but beautiful as the combinations of flowers were, 
the wilder and more natural portion of the garden pleased me most.” 
So it did me, and, as I have said, it is that which Mr. Ingram is extend¬ 
ing. Apart, however, from individual proclivities in that respect, the 
talents of Mrs. Ingram must be recognised. They are even more evident 
in her combined studio and drawing room, her landscape, architectural 
and_ animal paintings all commanding attention by their undoubted 
merits. But to return to the garden. To enumerate the plants employed 
by Mr. Ingram in furnishing the beds and on the rockery mounds and 
slopes were to form a catalogue of all that are suitable for the positions. 
Bor massing from 8000 to 10,000 Aubrietias are planted, and as associated 
with the large-trussing early flowering lemon and yellow Belvoir Oxlips, 
the effect is admirable. The Belvoir Yellow Wallflower is practically 
supplanted by the Oxlips, these being hardier, earlier, and more lasting. 
Aubrietias are a great feature at Belvoir, where most or all the species 
and varieties are gro^^■n, while others of great decorative value have been 
raised from seed—one, a rose tinted form of A. grmca, being particu¬ 
larly attractive. But the most attractive of all is A. Leichtlini, which 
was received from Mr. Max Leichtlin in return for some sent to him by 
Mr. Ingram, and will be referred to again. 
Besides or among the plants previously mentioned as typical of the 
Belvoir collection a few attracted attention—namely, Vesicaria utricu- 
laria, resembling an Alpine Wallflower, and Androsace coronopifolia, a 
gem of a plant with lax umbels of small white flowers ; Cardamine 
rotundifolia, white, early and graceful; Oxalis Acetosella, the blue 
variety in lovely tufts ; Narcissus Leedsi Duchess of Westminster, the 
queen of the collection ; Saxifragas cymbalaria and peltata, Tiarellas, 
Edelweiss, and Alpine Daisies that are so suitable for rockwork, up 
some of which we clamber and find at the top the “ last tree ” that 
is found in northern latitudes on the way to the North Pole—Salix 
herbacea. Flattened by the snow for ages the tree retains its prostrate 
form in temperate climes. Its upright growths are only a few inches 
high, and at a few feet distance one of the “ trees ” reminds of a mass of 
Creeping Jenny. Mr. Ingram brought it from Greenland’s icy moun¬ 
tains, indeed many plants at Belvoir were collected by him in different 
parts of Europe. But as we have got to the “last tree” it is time to 
depart, and in doing so across the lower grounds we find Camellias 
growing and flowering as they have done for years, also a fine specimen 
of one of the Indian Rhododendrons, perhaps R. Falconeri, with huge 
clusters of buds. And what can this Vanilla-like perfume come from 
that pervades the air ? It is from the elegant Box-like bush or tree that 
stands on the open lawn, Azara microphylla ; and as we pass under it 
and look upwards we see myriads of yellowish miniature flowers in the 
axils of the leaves. This evergreen was sent out a few years ago by 
Messrs. Veitchet Sons, and is usually grown against walls. The Belvoir 
specimen is much the finest I have seen in the open, and is worthy of 
the position it occupies. 
We have a rush through the houses in which very old Vines bear in 
abundance Grapes of superior quality, a peep into half a dozen plant 
houses, a walk down the fine kitchen garden, in which Potatoes are 
earthed at the time of planting by being laid in in rows on the ground 
and ridges of soil taken from between the rows and piled over them— 
the best plan with cold strong land ; a look into the reserve ground, 
where Mr. Ingram makes worthless clay land fertile in a year or two 
in the same way that Nature does in a thousand, for he spreads on the 
surface leaves and all kinds of vegetable refuse a foot or two thick, 
covers it with soil, and soon has a rich mass of what plants like, and in 
which Primroses and others grow luxuriantly. This is an instance of 
■ Art improving Nature with the best results. The garden walls are well 
covered with trees, including Peaches, which ripen good crops, as they 
might in hundreds of other gardens where “they cannot be grown 
now.” Growing Peaches on open walls bids fair to be a lost art at 
no distant date, but there are a few gardeners left who retain it au 
grow good crops further north than Leicestershire. There are useful 
orchards, and Mr. Ingram advises all who want fine standard Apple 
trees and plenty of good fruit to plant Bramley’s Seedling. Excellent 
accommodation is provided for j'oung men in the gardens, with incentives 
for improvement, and Mr. Ingranr is proud of the good positions some 
of his pupils have obtained in various parts of the world. And now 
I wish to record my obligations to all—guides and entertainers—who 
contributed to the pleasure of the day— a few hours spent in such good 
company in such a fine garden being a real treat to—A Londoner. 
When plants have to be raised for winter flowering a start cannot 
be made too early in the season, provided growers have no young 
plants on hand to commence rvith. Moderately young wood in a 
half ripened condition will strike freely if inserted amongst sand in 
pans or pots and covered with bellglasses. The cuttings only require 
two joints, none of the foliage need be removed, and the top eye only 
left above the sand. Insert them directly they are severed from the 
plant, well water, and place them in a temperature of G5°. If gentle- 
bottom heat can be given them all the better, but it need not exceed 
10° higher. In thi'ce weeks they will be rooted, and should be placed 
singly in 3-inch pots in a compost of loam and leaf mould in equal 
parts with a liberal quantity of sand added. The varieties before named 
do well on the Briar, but are preferable on their own roots, because they' 
throw up more freely from the base, Niphetos excepted, for it is- 
a weak grower. If the stocks are grafted at home they should be 
housed some time before the operation is performed to induce activity 
of the roots and the sap to flow freely. When in this condition cut 
them down as closely to the rim of the pot as possible, and the scion,, 
which need only possess one eye, should be securely tied on. Take care 
to fit as nicely as possible the slanting cut on the scion with that on 
the stock. They can be rubbed over with grafting wax, or a little clay 
rubbed in with the finger will do equally well. Neither is absolutely 
necessary. Then place them in a close house, or better still in the pro¬ 
pagating frame, where they can be kept close and moist until the stock 
and scion are united. When this takes place the scion soon begine 
growing, and care is needed in hardening the plants to' bear full expo¬ 
sure in a structure having a temperature of 60° to 65°. 
In a few weeks from the time of grafting they will be ready for 
placing in 5-inch pots, and in doing so bury the union of the scion 
and stock so as to give them a chance of emitting roots from the 
junction. They will do this with much greater freedom when they are 
buried early after grafting than if the greater portion of the season 
has elapsed before it is done. These plants, as well as those on their 
own roots, should be grown on under warm conditions until the end 
of Juno, when they may be gradually hardened to cooler treatment, 
although they should be grown under glass the whole of the season. 
The grafted plants will grow most rapidly at first, and by the time 
named most of them will be ready for 8-inch pots, while these on their 
own roots will be much smaller in pots 2 and 3 inches less, and will fill 
their pots with roots by September. 
It may here be mentioned that plants can be purchased directly they 
are grafted, or when placed in 5-inch pots, in which they will be well 
established by May. After that time strong plants can be had in larger 
pots. The earliest worked plants are generally shifted, for there is a 
demand for plants of extra size towards autumn. If purchased in 
5-inch pots transfer them into 8-inch, and if grown under glass they 
will increase wonderfully in size during the next two or three months. 
Up to this stage all the flower buds as they appear should be removed. 
In September it must be decided whether the plants are to be 
repotted or planted out. Those intending to grow them in pots should 
place them into others 2 inches larger—that is, those on their own roots 
into 8-inch, and the worked ones into 10-inch. The balls of roots in 
potting should not be disturbed further than the removal of the drain¬ 
age from the base and loose soil from the surface. The soil this time 
must be pressed a little firmer than was needed during the earlier 
pottings, the same care being exercised in planting them out, and the 
soil of the border should be pressed firmly about them. At this stage 
of the plant’s growth the critical may be inclined to ask two questions— 
First, Would not the potting advised, or planting out, be better postponed 
until after the turn of the year ? secondly, "Would not the roots keep 
better in the smaller pots than amongst a quantity of soil that is. 
unoccupied ? Our answer to both questions is. Decidedly not. 
Keeping the plants in pots they have filled with roots will quickly bring 
both the roots and growth of the plants to a standstill, which is not 
desirable. Our object is to keep them growing freely for at least a 
month or six weeks after planting them out, so that they will become 
well established in the border or pots ready to make a vigorous growth 
early in the season. The roots will remain in better condition, because 
we do not intend them to be inactive during the whole of the season, 
and there is not the slightest fear of their not remaining fresh and, 
healthy provided those in charge do not saturate them with water. 
