454 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Slay 31, 1888 
lietween Gr.ipesthat are ripened in good heat and those finished in a low 
temperature. 
(rmjyes Scalding .—Muscats and Lady Downe’s completing the stoning 
jnust be watched in hot bright weather, and in case of scalding air 
must he admitted more freely for a fortnight or until colouring com- 
■ men CCS, when all danger will be over. Even Hamburghs are being 
•scalded this season, which can mostly be avoided in their case by a 
good spread of foliage, and remedied by a bountiful supply of air by 
•day and a little ventilation left on constantly at the upper part of 
•the house, and a genial warmth in the hot-water pipes. 
Late Houses .—Late varieties of Grapes in flower must have a con- 
'stant circulation of dry warm air, and a temperature of 70° to 75° at 
night, rising to 85° or 90° with sun heat, or without this the thick- 
;skinned varieties do not set well. Thin the berries freely as soon as they 
are set, but this in the case of the shy setters must be confined to the 
Temoval of the smallest and imperfect berries in the first instance, 
•deferring the general thinning until the properly fertili.sed berries can 
Oje determined by their free swelling. There must not be any defi¬ 
ciency of moisture at the roots, therefore afford liquid manure copiously 
after the Grapes are thinned and swelling, or a top-dressing may be 
:given of some approved artificial manure, distributing it evenly over 
■the surface, and work it in with tepid water. Outside borders, if the 
weather be dry and the soil light, should be well watered, employing 
■liquid manure at a temperature of 85° to 90° if the Vines are carrying a 
full crop and arc not very strong. 
Vines in pots for next year’s fruiting should have the leading shoot 
;or cane stopped at 8 to 9 feet, and the laterals or sub-l.aterials stopped 
at one leaf as produced. Supernumeraries in recently planted houses 
should also have the leading shoots pinched at the length indicated for 
pot Vines—that is, those intended to fruit next season, the laterals and 
flub-laterals being clo.sely stopped, but the permanent canes may be 
allowed to make all the growth possible, as well as pot Vines not in¬ 
tended to fruit next season. Young Vines after they become established 
should be encouraged with plenty of water at the I'oots and abundant 
atmospheric moisture, closing the house, early on sunny afternoons so as 
to husband sun heat and save fuel. 
Figs. — lligiening .—To have fruit in perfection it is necessary to keep 
it free from damp throughout the ripening process, affording a free cir¬ 
culation of dry warm air. Maintain the night temperature at (;5° to 70°, 
by day at 75° to 80°, and with sun heat 80° to 90°. There is no com¬ 
parison between Figs ripened in a close moist atmosphere and in shade 
and those enjoying full exposure and a favourable atmosphere. It is 
necessary to afford a circulation of air constantly. If red spider become 
troublesome during the ripening it is a good plan to gather all the fruit 
about ripe or sufficiently so for its being effected with the fruit in an airy 
fruit room, and then give the trees a forcible syringing, directing the 
water against the under side of the loaves so as to dislodge the pest, and 
■clear water being used and air admitted rather freely it will not inter¬ 
fere with the ripening of the fruit remaining, and by pursuing this pro- 
■cess the pest may be kept from increasing very much until the fruit is 
■gathered, when it may be destroyed by sponging or otherwise applying 
■an insecticide. 
Scco7id C?' 0 j)S. —Generous treatment w'ill be necessary to enable the 
trees to swell the second crop, syringing twice a d.ay to keep red spider 
in check, and affording liquid manure when watering is necessary, trees 
in pots requiring it daily, and those in borders once or twice a week 
:according to the vigour of the trees and extent of the rooting area, those 
with borders of limited e.xtent requiring it more frequently than those 
with the roots less restricted. The second crop must be thinned where 
thickly set before tlie Figs are the size of Walnuts, and in thinning 
reserve the largest fruits at the base of the shoots. 
Young Trees for Xext Season’s Forcing in Pots .—Those coming on for 
early forcing must not on any account be neglected, or they will disap¬ 
point the grower. They must have all the light possible, and not be at 
■a greater dist.ance from the gl.ass than is necessary for their growth, 
keeping them well syringed ami supplied with liquid manure, so as to 
secure a sturdy growth, and when the gro.wth is complete they may be 
placed outdoors in a sunny corner to induce rest, but they must have the 
wood thoroughly ripened, as all fruit trees, especially those for very early 
forcing, require to have the W'ood matured early. 
Cheery House.— When the whole crop is perfectly ripe the chief 
■consideration will be to prolong the season to preserve them fresh. 
:Shading will do so, but it is only desirable when the fruit ^s exposed 
diroctl}' to the sun owing to the limited foliage. Free ventilation must 
be attended to, and in hot W'oather a sprinkling of the surface of the 
border in the hottest part of the day will assist in keeping the fruit 
plump. The roots must not be neglected in the supply of water, for 
dryne.ss is inimical to the development of the buds for the ensuing crop 
■of fruit. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Pedding-out .—In many districts a considerable number of plants 
have been put out, but on the whole not much is gained by very early 
planting. Bright sunshine, easterly winds, and cold nights are not 
favourable to a good start, and drenchings of cold water are anything 
but beneficial. In most localities, the bulk of the Pelargoniums, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Violas, Verbenas, Pyrethrums, Lobelias, Marguerites, and other 
comparatively hardy plants may w'ell be planted during the first w'eek 
in June ; but a week later is quite soon enough to put out Iresines, 
Heliotropes, Begonias, Ageratums, Petunias, and other more delicate 
plants. Coleuses, Canuas, Acacias, Grevilleas, Abutilons, Centaureas, 
and the commoner Palms may bo planted early in .June ; but the large- 
leaved bolanums, Wigandias, Ricinuses, Amaranthuses, and Tobacco 
are injured by a very slight frost, and ought, therefore, to bo kept 
where they can be protected till the second week in June, and even 
later in cold districts. Dahlias are rather delicate, as also are the 
African and French Marigolds; w'hile iStocks, Asters, Zinnias, Gail- 
lardias, Godetias, Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, Cornflowers, and Sun¬ 
flowers may well be planted as soon as strong'enough to move. 
Hints on Planting .—Each bed or border should, prior to being filled, 
be well forked over, and made fairly firm and level. If of a rather 
heavy nature it is unwise to bring any bad w'orking soil to the surface, 
and it would be further improved by having plenty of good leaf soil 
forked in. The winter occupants of the beds, such as Forget-me-nots, 
Wallflowers, Silenes, Saponaria, and Limnanthes, were very late in 
flowering, and when cleared off they leave tlie ground in a dry and 
impoverished state. Such beds should have a dressing of either short 
manure or decayed garden refuse, and be well watered the evening 
before planting. This will be found a better plan than planting first 
and then watering. Verbenas, Violas, Begonias, Calceolarias, and 
Dahlias are all moisture-loving plants, and should, therefore, be given 
the coolest sites, and plenty of manure or vegetable matter in the soil. 
Zonal Pelargoniums, notably the doubles. Petunias, Marguerites, Antir¬ 
rhinums, and Tropseolums, thrive and flower surprisingly well when 
])lanted in rather hot and dry positions, and the majority of the Zonal 
I’elargoniums flower most freely when growmg in only moderately good 
soil. As a rule, it is the best plan to commence with the edging plants, 
finishing in the centre. Where plaees have to be left for the less hardy 
kinds, these should be duly lined out, and lines formed with the back of 
a rake, or any other means, arc of great assistance to the novice in 
planting. Mixed beds, if well done, have a pleasing effect. If it is 
intended to peg plants down so as to form a flat even surface, the 
stiff-growing Pelargoniums and Calceolarias especi-ally ought to be 
planted in a sloping direction, or otherwise they easily snap off. 
Watering and Shading .—The roots and soil ought always to be in a 
moist state when placed in the ground, as it is a difficult matter to 
moisten them subsequelltl 3 ^ The soil should be firmly pressed about 
them, and a gentle watering given. If the nights are warm sprinklings 
given in the evening are beneficial, but on no account should deluges of 
cold water be given nightlv, these rendering the ground very cold. 
Should the weather keep clear and hot temporary shade prevents the 
loss of much moisture, and also helps plants that are not strongly rooted. 
Especially is shading necessary for the Sedums, Herniarias, Mentha, 
and Antennaria used for filling-in the groundwork of designs in carpet 
beds. These have to be puUed in pieces and thickly dibbled over the 
ground to be covered, and if this is unavoidably done in hot weather 
only shade and frequent waterings will insure even and quick growth. 
iMte-struck Cuttings. — If there is any likelihood of Iresines, 
Coleuses, and Alternanthcras being scarce, it is not yet too late to 
strike a number of strong tops. Towards the end of May or the first 
week in June thousands of Alternanthera cuttings may be taken off the 
old plants and dibbled-in without any trimming about 2 inches apart in 
a frame over a very slight hotbed. Coleuses, Iresines, and soft Verbena 
tops may be similarly treated, and if kept close, shaded from bright 
sunshine, and duly watered all will strike root very quickly, and grow 
into useful plants by the middle of June. Small plants raised in this 
way are the best for carpet beds. 
Seeds to he Soion .—If seeds of Carnations, Pinks, and Picotees are 
sown now in pans of fine soil, set in a handlight or frame, and properly 
shaded, they will soon germinate, and capital plants for the borders 
eventually result. It is necessary to raise a batch every year, especially 
of Carnations and Picotees, as seedlings invariably -exhaust themselves 
in flowering the first season after they are raised. Campanula medium 
may yet be sown similarly to the Carnations, the plants resulting being 
suitable for either borders or pots. Campanula pyramidalis sown now 
will not grow to a flowering size under two seasons. Sweet IVilliams, 
both double and single, ought to be sown now, as well as Polyanthuses, 
Wallflowers, Stocks, and Myosotises in the open border. Sow also 
Sweet Peas for late flowering, and it is not yet too late to sow Poppies, 
Ornamental Grasses, Mignonette, Godetias, and other showy annuals. 
THE MANAGEMENT OF SWARMS.—No. 2. 
The object of every bee-keeper who depends rather upon the 
production of honey than upon the sale of swarms for his profit is 
to get the newly hived swarm to work in surplus chambers with all 
possible speed. Swarms hived and treated in the manner pointed 
out in our last article will soon be ready to store honey in sections 
or other surplus chambers, but this is only to be expected in the 
case of strong swarms. Whatever else a bee-keeper may do, keep¬ 
ing the attainment of the greatest possible amount of surplus 
honey in view as the goal and object of all his manipulations, we 
