nne 23, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
541 
to colour afford plenty of air, a little fire heat being essential to their 
higher perfection, especially in flavour, insuring a circulation of warm 
rather dry air, but allow the temperature to fall to (15° at night, other¬ 
wise securing by artificial means a temperature of 70° to 75°, and 80° to 
85° through the day for Black Hamburghs and similar varieties, and 
Muscats should have a night temperature of 70° to 75°, 80° to 85° by 
day up to 90° or 95° from sun heat. 
Grapes Stoninri .—The weather we have had recently—dull and cold 
with occasional gleams of sun—is the worst that can be for scorching 
and scalding. The best means of preventing both is a rather high night 
temperature, early ventilation and free by day with a little at night. 
It is not desirable to close early at this critical period—the close of the 
stoning process; but do so carefully, and as the liability to scalding 
does not extend over more than a fortnight to three weeks particular 
attention should be given to ventilation. If the weather be very bright, 
and there is most to Ise dreaded on bright weather succeeding a dull and 
moist period, a slight shade over the roof lights is very beneficial. A 
double thickness of herring nets will afford all the shade required. 
Late Ilottsus .—Grapes to hang tl rough the winter- require more 
thinning than those not intended to keep for any lengthened period. 
The high and dry borders of modern culture do not receive as a rule 
anything like the quantity of water they require, especially inside 
borders. They should be well mulched and very liberally watered. 
Keep free from all gross laterals, but allow a little extension, always 
taking care not to allow any encroachment on the principal leaves, 
which to duly perform their offices must have full exposure to light. 
The thick-skinned varieties and Muscats like plenty of heat. Employ 
fire heat to insure a day temperature of 70° to 75°, and C5° at night. 
Through the day maintain by sun heat a temperature of 80° to 85° or 
90°. Black Hamburghs need not be hurried. They will come on quite 
fast enough without artificial heat for the next two months, and when 
ripening as they should do, if they are to keep well by early September, 
fire heat can be given as necessary. 
Pot Vines .—Those that have completed their growth should now have 
less moisture, syringing being discontinued, and the supply of water at 
the roots moderate, air being freely admitted, and afford the principal 
foliage all the light jjracticable. 
Figs. —Early ihmse. — The first crop will be all gathered and more 
moisture in the atmosphere will be desirable, therefore resume syringing 
the trees twice daily and damping availalile surfaces whenever they 
become dry. Thinning the fruit for the second crop if plentiful must 
be free, reserving those which are nearest the base of the shoots. Tie in 
the growths to the trellis as they advance, stopping or removing such as 
are not required, regulating those retained so that they may receive the 
beneficial effects of light and air to mature them perfectly. Do not 
allow the trees to suffer by want of water ; those in borders of limited 
extent will require water frequently, affording on every occasion liquid 
manure, or a little fertilising agent may be sprinkled on the border and 
washed in. 
Ervit Ripening .—Where crops are ripening constantly maintain a 
free circulation of dry warm air, which is essential to Figs ripening per¬ 
fectly. A moderate air moisture is,however, necessary for the benefit of the 
foliage, and, though less moisture in the soil is advisable when the fruit 
is ripening it must not be allowed to become parchingly dry or the trees 
will suffer. If necessary afford fire heat to maintain a night temperature 
of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day, and to admit a free circulation of air. 
Trees in Pof.?.—Those required for early forcing must not be neglected 
in syringing, as the foliage must be kept e'ean and healthy, exposing the 
plants to light, and ventilate freely. Attend with regularity to the 
watering, supplying liquid manure on every occasion. 
Cucumbers. —A few seeds may now be sown for late summer and 
early autumn supply of fruit. They will germinate and the seedlings 
be fit to plant out in about a month. Attention must be given to plants in 
full bearing by way of thinning out the exhausted growths and foliage, 
laying in young bearing wood, stopping one Joint beyond the fruit, and 
earthing up the roots periodically. Copious supplies of -water or liquid 
manure will be required about twice a week or as may be necessary, but 
avoid applying it too strongly, syringing at closing time, and maintaining 
a good moisture all day by sprinkling every available surface as 
necessary, but more frequently in hot weather than when dull. Do not 
overcrop young plants, and do not allow the fruits to hang too long, as 
upon attention to this depends in a measure a good and continuous 
supply. 
PLAKT HOUSES. 
Poinsettias .—The earliest rooted plants should be transferred into 
6-inch pots and placed in an intermediate temperature until they have 
commenced rooting freely amongst the fresh soil. They may need 
shading lightly for a few days or a week after potting, but be careful 
not to draw them up soft and weakly by overshading them. When 
root activity has fairly commenced, gradually prepare them for cold 
frames by the admission of air and a loiver day and night temperature. 
Every care must be taken not to bring growth to a standstill bj"- re¬ 
moving them to cool positions. At first they should be kept moderately 
close, and the frame closed early in the afternoon while the sun is still 
rrpon it. Poinsettias are often grown too warm, and only draw up tall 
and weakly in con-sequencc. When once they are well established in 
their pots air should be liberally admitted to them, and very little, if 
any, shade employed. Huch treatment will result in dwarf plants with 
solid wood that will not fail to produce at the proper season large 
brilliant bracts. As successional plants are rooted remove them to 
cooler quarters, and prepare them for removal to cold frame treatment 
by the time they are ready for their flowering pots. Cuttings may still 
be rooted, and useful decorative plants will be produced if this is prac- 
ti.sed until the middle of July. Use for a compost good fibry loam, one- 
seventh of decayed manure and sand. Water carefull}^ but never allo-w 
them to suffer by an insufficient supply. 
Etiplwrhia jacquinieeflora .—If the method of preparing the plants 
for yielding cuttings previously described has been practised, the neces¬ 
sary stock of plants will have been rooted. The earliest are ready for 
5-inch pots, and when established in these cut them back, and the result 
will be plants with three or more shoots inste.ad of one. In some cases 
plants with one stem are the most serviceable for furnishing ; in such 
cases allow the plants to extend without cutting them back. Merely 
pinching out the points of the plants to induce them to branch is use¬ 
less, for they will start away -with one shoot only, but if cut back to the 
firm wood they will branch freely. Later plants may be grown on 
without pruning. Cuttings can still be rooted for flowering in 3-inch 
pots. The old stool plants can be cut back and started into growth in 
heat; when they have broken repot them. Do not overpot these plants, 
for they do better when confined at their roots, and are much less liable 
to fail. Do not grow them too warm, and fully expose them to the sun. 
After the middle of next month they will do in cold frames. Shading 
only draws them up and prevents the wood ripening thoroughly, which 
is essential to ensure profuse flowering. 
Plvmlago rosea .—Sturdy plants of this and the variety coccinea in 
3-inch pots should now be ready for placing at once into 5 and 6-incb 
pots. For at least a month or six weeks the plants may be grown on in. 
an Intermediate temperature ; slight shade may be given during the 
hottest part of the day, and the shoots pinched about twice more. Be¬ 
fore subjecting the plants to cool treatment the flowering growths should 
be about an inch in length after the last pinching. Watch for thrips, 
which are very liable to attack these plants if grown in a dry atmo¬ 
sphere and not liberally syringed. These, as well as Euphorbias, will do 
well in the compost advised for Poinsettias. 
Linum trigynum .—If these have been grown up to the present 
time in an intermediate temperature, the plants will be ready for 
placing into 6-inch pots. Prepare the plants afterwards for cold 
frame treatment, and syringe freely twice daily, for this plant is 
very liable to be attacked by red spider. If they are attacked, syringe 
thoroughly with a solution of sulphur and waiter, a 3-inch potful in 
three gallons of water will be ample. Leave it on the plants for two 
bright days, which will be ample to destroy the spider, then wash it off 
with tepid water. Pinch the shoots from time to time as they need it 
until the middle of next month. Use the compost advised for potting 
Poinsettias. 
Liibonms .—Transfer these from small CO’s into 4 and 6 inch pots ; 
encourage them to grow for some time in an intermediate temperature 
until bushy plants have been produced. To flower them well the shoots- 
should afterwards be allowed to extend without pinching, and the plants 
fully exposed to the sun, with liberal ventilation. 
Eranthemums .—Where large plants of E. pulchellum are appreciated, 
those earliest rooted will be ready for 6 or 7-inch pots ; if placed in 
the first they may when ready be placed in others 2 inches larger. 
Cuttings may still be rooted, and if pinched once or twice w'ill be useful 
plants in 6-inch pots. 
FLOWEE GAEDEN. 
Bedding Plants .—Seldom has there been a more favourable season 
for bedding out, the dull showery weather experienced quite obviating 
the use of the watering pot beyond, perhaps, the first w'ateriug. All 
have commenced active growth, and that, too, in spite of a series of 
cold nights. When once Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Ageratums, Cal¬ 
ceolarias, Marguerites, Petunias, Lobelias, Pyrethrums, Iresines, Coleuses, 
Alternantheras, and numerous trailing plants are w^ell established they 
rarely require any further assistance in the shape of w'atering, they do 
better wdthout it in fact. Verbenas and Violas, however, require to be 
kept moist at the roots, and in addition are much improved by occasional 
supplies of liquid manure. Most annuals if planted in fairly good soil 
will do well without being watered, but if extra fine Asters, Zinnias, 
Stocks, Marigolds, and Dahlias are wanted these ought to be fed with 
weak guano or some kind of artificial manure, this being either 
sprinkled over the surface of the soil and watered in, or else dissolved 
in soft water prior to applying it. Strong doses should not be given or 
the roots may be injured, and in every case pond water, or any that 
has been well exposed to sunshine, ought to be used. 
Regulating the Plants .—There being no further nece.ssity to water 
the beds, the next proceeding ought to be regulating the plants so as 
to present as even a mass of colour as possible. First, however, the 
surface of the ground ought to be lightly stirred and levelled, this being- 
most easily done with the aid of a small flat hoe. A careful workman 
ought with this tool to be able to leave the beds with a neat appearance 
without cutting up any of the plants, and this loosening of the soil is a 
preventive of drought and cracking. In dry hot positions it is also- 
advisable to mulch the beds with either leaf soil, spent tan, or cocoa- 
nut fibre. Where there are numbers of beds forming a design, the best 
effect is produced by a flat surface of colour, and this can easily be done 
by planting in a sloping directing all stiff-growing subjects, this admit¬ 
ting of their being spread out and pegged down where required. For 
Pelargoniums rather strong pegs are needed, nothing answering better 
than the winter primings from large Apple and Pear trees, the ends of 
these being pointed and then inserted in the grouml so as to enclose and 
fasten down the strong shoots. Serviceable pegs can be cut from the 
common Bracken Fern or from shrubberies. Lighter pegs will 
