2 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 2,1891. 
SOFTSOAP, SULPHUR, TOBACCO AS FUNGI¬ 
CIDES AND INSECTICIDES. 
Winter dressing Vines and fruit trees generally grown under 
glass or trained to waUs with an approved composition for the pre¬ 
vention and destruction of insect pests was formerly a garden 
practice held in high repute. The mixture varied in its components, 
but there was a remarkable unanimity as regards the principal 
ingredients. These were (and still are) found to have considerable 
value as fungicides and insecticides, and were used in about equal 
proportions, of which the following is a fairly representative 
formula :—Softsoap, 1 lb.; flowers of sulphur (some preferred black 
or sulphur vivum), 1 lb. ; snuff (Scotch, best), 1 lb. Dissolve the 
softsoap in a gallon of boiling water, while hot add the snuff, 
then the sulphur, forming a pasty wash, and to this add enough 
clay to form an adhesive cream. Some preferred the strongest 
shag tobacco to snuff. In that case the tobacco (1 lb.) was placed 
in a vessel, and a gallon of boiling water poured over it, covering 
the vessel with a sack ; the mixture was allowed to stand until cold, 
then strained through a coarse cloth. The softsoap and sulphur 
were added to the tobacco water, well mixed, and clay added to 
give it the consistency of cream. The mixture was applied with a 
stiff brush, the Vines and trees having been pruned, stripped of 
loose bark, and otherwise freed of matter likely to interfere with 
the application of the compound. It was brushed well into every hole, 
crack, angle, and crevice, the whole Vine or fruit tree thoroughly 
coated with the sticky material, care being taken not to injure the 
buds. That the pigment killed the insects was held to be proven, 
inasmuch as Vines or trees not dressed with it swarmed with 
insects and mildew the ensuing season, whilst those dressed were 
comparatively clean. 
Some growers were not content to use softsoap, sulphur, snuff, 
or tobacco water, but added lime, and to take off its glaring 
whiteness added soot, forming these into a wash with water, and 
the whole into an adhesive cream by the addition of a due pro¬ 
portion of clay. Others went further and used gas liquor along 
with some or the whole of the foregoing ingredients, and a few 
waxed bold enough to add gas tar or petroleum for the destruc¬ 
tion of mealy bug. The ambition was to invent a compound strong 
enough to kill the whole race of parasitical fungi and insects. 
Alas! some Vines to which the “ improved ” mixture were 
applied pushed their buds tardily and irregularly the following 
year, others not starting, and those breaking were puny in shoot 
and leaf, with bunches showing prominently in the points of the 
shoots when 2 or 3 inches long. These instead of developing for 
the most part shrivelled and collapsed, the growth altogether very 
weak, and the prospect poor. The rods became hard and dry. 
The oleaginous and tarry substances employed in the mixture u^ed 
as winter dressing had done their work. They had been absorbed, 
the cells of the bark and underlying tissues had been hardened 
and contracted, and the flow of sap obstructed. Whilst they were 
dressed with the softsoap, sulphur, tobacco, and clay all went well 
with the Vines. The stems thickened, the foliage was abundant 
and good, the G-rapes plentiful and excellent. Why, then, ignore 
the fact that an injudicious use of substances for the prevention 
and destruction of insect pests had proved injurious ? There was 
only one remedy—cutting away the old rods of Vines and taking 
up new. They were cut below where the “stuff” had been applied 
to the rods and splendid young canes followed. How many Vines 
have been replenished with fresh, free-bearing, healthy rods in the 
manner indicated ? 
The case is not very different as regards other fruit trees. 
The Fig is notorious for red spider and scale, the Peach and 
Nectarine being similarly attacked. This occasions the use of 
preventive and remedial measures. Formerly the pigment 
before alluded to was exclusively employed, and did not induce 
hardening of the bark and underlying tissues, but caused the 
trunks and limbs of the trees to thicken and to have clean healthy 
bark. The clay absorbed the oil of the softsoap and prevented 
its soaking into and contracting the tissues of the bark and 
alburnum, whilst insects were destroyed. Injury is often done by 
the application of substances which, acting and reacting on each 
other, set the oil and tarry matter free to soak into the bark, 
destroying its cells, and the vascular or alburnous tissues beneath. 
The mixture used by old gardeners did not injure the bark, but 
improved it, as in claying over grafts and wounds, and it remained 
until the trees were well furnished with leaves, when it cracked 
and fell away, leaving the stems and branches clear and healthy. 
But the daubing of trunks and branches took up much time, 
and many persons discarded the clay. I should like to know with 
what advantage. Softsoap then became the specific, and has even 
been used at a strength of 1 lb. to a gallon of water. What 
wonder that Vines, Peach, and other trees thus dressed ceased 
to enlarge in their stems, and failed to produce profitable crops 
of fruit. Lathering Vines or fruit trees with crude softsoap 
will ruin them sooner or later, but when used in the mixture above 
mentioned it is safe. I have seen two vineries out of three 
rendered profltle3s through this rough and ready method of 
die3sing the Vines with softsoap. I have seen young Vines ruined, 
before they were seven years old by the too lavish use of softsoap- 
Even “ authorities ” have recommended a solution of softsoap, 1 lb. 
to a gallon of water. A lather thus formed may not injure trees 
with thick bark, but what if it be applied to young trees ? Some 
are more cautious, yet recommend softsoap, 8 ozs. to a gallon of 
water. That may not injui'e trees if the weather be wet, but 
what is the result of its application to growth of one, two, or 
three years old under glass ? A 2-ounce solution will kill aphides,, 
red spider, and thrips. Why, then, use more ? True, twice the 
strength has not done harm to hard ripe wood in winter ; but the 
fact to remember is this — softsoap in strong solution is not 
safe. 
It is a compound of whale oil and potash, and prepared also 
from linseed oil, tallow, and residuum of various kinds, but the ’cute 
American is generally careful to prescribe “ whale oil soap.” Of 
course, all disasters from its over use are attributed to the 
badness of the soap. That does not mend matters. The potash 
causes the soap to be soft. Add soda lye, or saponify the whale 
oil therewith, and it is hard soap. Potash is softening, soda- 
hardening. That must be taken as regards the effect of potash 
and soda on trees. Potash collects moisture, keeps the so' tsoap- 
acting on the msect*. Soda dries and crystallises, hence the use of 
a combined potash and soda wash. Oils and fats are bad absorbents 
of water, and have acid reaction, hence they prevent the parts of 
trees to which they are applied benefiting by the moisture of the 
air, rain, or syringing, and, when dried, close the pores. Thus- 
softsoap acts on insects by the oil adhering to their bodies whilst 
the action of the potash kills them. On mildews the potash 
burns up the mycelial threads, and the acid reaction of the oil 
shrivels up the remains. Mr. Bardney long ago pointed to the 
efficacy of softsoap in weak solution as an antidote for mildew on 
Roses under glass. It has been used from time immemorial as an 
insecticide, while as a cleansing agent it is admirable alike for 
woodwork and fruit trees that have been infested with insects. A 
thorough washing by means of a brush reaching well into every 
hole, crevice, and angle of the bark with a solution of softsoap,. 
2 ounces to the gallon of water, at a temperature of 90 to 100°,. 
is safe and efficacious for the destruction of red spider, thrips, and 
aphides. If the whole house, Vines and other fruit trees included, 
were syringed with water at a temperature of 140 to 160° it would 
soften the dirt on the woodwork and accumulations of various 
matters on the glass and trees, whilst making quick destruction of 
any insects it reached. This should bo done so soon as the leaves 
have fallen, before the pests have found snug hybernating quarters. 
Then thoroughly cleanse the house, the trees after pruning, and 
removing the loose bark or rough portions, wash with the soapy 
water as already advised, whitewash the walls, remove the loose sur¬ 
face soil, and apply a top-dressing of rich material. Objection may 
be taken to the 2 ounces solution of softsoap not killing eggs. My 
reply is, kill the adults in autumn or early winter and they will 
never lay eggs. The Peach or brown aphis lives through the 
winter on any juicy shoot it can find, therefore let the application 
of the soap solution be thorough. 
The 2-ounces solution cleanses all foliage infested with aphides, 
red spider, and thrips. It may be syringed on the parts infested, 
the whole thoroughly wetted ; but it cannot always be used in that 
way on account of its spotting the Grapes, yet it is easy applied with 
a sponge, and if care is taken to begin soon enough and persist in its 
use there is no doubt as regards the issue. Any plants infested may 
be syringed or have the leaves sponged. It, however, is not always 
safe to use this weak (2 ounces) solution on plants with hairy 
leaves. These are more susceptible of injury than those with 
smooth, and these matters must be considered by those using soapy 
solutions, bearing in mind that they are first caustic and afterwards 
acid. Stronger solutions are not recommended, except for special 
purposes, and they must be used upon the object specialised in strict 
accordance with the instructions.—G. Abbey. 
(To be continued.! 
THE PYRAMIDAL SAXIFRAGE. 
Few plants are more hardy, more easy to cultivate, and more 
graceful, than “ Saxifraga Cotyledon,” or, as it is better known in 
gardens in a stronger form, as S. pyramidalis. Although a perfect 
gem, it is certainly not grown to the extent it deserves. The probable 
reason of this neglect is that it does not flower until its third year, 
and in the interval escapes the very little attention necessary to 
grow it to the mature condition. Yet the provision necessary is so 
