10 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jaly 2,1891. 
Flight, Twyford. Six Teas or Noisettes, trebles.—Mr. P. G. C Burnand, 
Wray Park, Reigate, first with small blooms. 
Twenty-four distinct Roses, open.—First, Dr. S. P. Budd, 8, Gay 
■Street, Bath, with blooms of excellent form and colour, but not large : 
Le Havre, Etienne Levet, Marie Baumann, Alfred Colomb, A. K. Wil¬ 
liams, Horace Yernet, Charles Lefebvre, and Louis Van Houtte (rich) 
being the leading varieties. Second, Messrs. Keynes, Williams, & Co. 
Third, Mr. Charles Kent, Clifton Cottage, Haylands, Ryde. Twelve 
•distinct trebles.—First, Dr. S. P. Budd, who won easily with beautiful 
fresh blooms, good in form and colour, A. K. Williams, Horace Vernet, 
Alfred Colomb, Abel Carriere, Marie Baumann, Captain Christy, 
Mrs. J. Laing being admirably represented. Second, Messrs. Keynes 
and Co. 
Twenty-four distinct, not open to nurserymen. — Dr. S. P. Budd 
■was well first with even blooms, good in colour and form. The Rev. 
J. Pemberton was a good second, but with rather loose blooms. Third, 
Mr. F. W. Flight. Twelve distinct trebles —First, Mr. F. W. Flight with 
small neat bio ms, La France, Dr. Sewell, Madame Gabriel Luizet, and 
A. K. Williams being the best in the stands. Second, Rev. J. Pembeiton. 
Twelve distinct, six Teas or Noisettes, and six Hybrid Perpetuals.—First, 
Dr. S. P. Budd, Souvenir de Th6r6se Levet being richly tinted ; an 
excellent stand. Second, Mr. F. W. Flight. Third, Mr. P. G. C. 
Burnand. 
Twelve blooms of one variety, Tea or Noisette.—First, Mr. B. R. Cant 
with Niphetos, large, but rather loose. Twelve H.P.s, one variety, 
light.—First, Mr. C. Turner with La France, very fine. Second, Mr. 
B. R. Cant, with Madame G. Luizet, small but good. Twelve H.P.s, one 
■variety, dark.—First, Dr. S. P. Budd with Marie Baumann, medium 
size, good in form, but pale in colour. Second, Messrs. D. Prior & Son 
with Fisher Holmes, small, but well coloured. Some other exhibits 
cannot be described this week. 
|p| WORUrofiTHEWEEK. R 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Layering Strawberries. —Lose no time in attending to this as 
soon as the runners are large enough to be fastened down. The main 
point to be observed in order to procure a good crop of fruit the first 
season is to plant early, and to have the plants as strong as possible. 
Small 60-sized pots are the most convenient for rooting the runners in, 
and the earliest and best runners are always to be found where the 
plants are kept specially for stock purposes, and not allowed to fruit. 
A good soaking of water occasionally about the old plants will also 
assist materially in starting the runners into growth, and will make 
them more vigorous. Fill the pots with light loam, or a mixture of 
heavy loam and leaf soil, and place them in groups about the beds for 
convenience of watering. Small stones about half the size of the tops 
of the pots are the best to secure the runners down, as they tend to 
keep the roots cool and moist; but some persons use peg3 with almost 
equal success. Unless the stock of any variety is limited it is not advis¬ 
able to lay more than one plant from each runner, and the growing 
point should be pinched off closely at once; but where it is necessary 
to obtain every plant the secondary ones may remain for a few days 
until large enough to remove, and then be dibbled in under handlights 
behind a north wall. Where the young stock has to be raised from beds 
of bearing plants place the runners in alternate rows only, so as to 
leave room for gathering the crops. In all cases provision must be made 
for convenience in watering, as good plants cannot be had without 
plenty of moisture, and require daily attention in this respect. Many 
people use pieces of turf for rooting the runners in instead of pots of 
soil, and this system has several advantages over pots if the young stock 
is only required for planting out. It has one great drawback also: if 
the turf has not been stacked long enough to kill the roots of grass and 
weeds they will soon spring up after planting, and cannot be removed 
without greatly disturbing the plants. The pieces of turf should be 
at least 2 inches thick and 3 inches square. They are placed close 
together grass side downwards, and a small portion of the soil has to be 
removed with a trowel when laying the runner, the latter being fastened 
with a stone or peg. As soon as the runners are cut the turves, with 
the young plants, are planted intact in the new beds. Where good turf 
composed of light loam is easily obtained, this is a capital plan for 
raising young plants for outside purposes. 
Apples and Pears. —Thinning the Fruit .—Any trees that have set 
fruits too thickly may now be thinned, leaving the largest fruits and 
those that are most exposed to the sun and air. Young trees, especially 
those planted within the last two years, need close watching in this 
respect, and only one or two fruits should be left on these to prove if 
they are true to name. Cordon trees and any intended to grow fruit 
for exhibition must be well thinned. It is better to grow one fruit 
worth storing than to have three which are only large enough for the 
pigs. Be on the watch for red spider and aphis, and syringe with 
Gishurst if any appears. Good fruit cannot be had without large 
healthy foliage. Give sewage liberally in dry weather wherever there is 
a good crop of fruit. 
Grape Vines. —As these are growing freely stop all shoots two 
joints beyond the bunch unless they are required for next season’s 
fruiting or for covering more space on the wall. In warm districts 
outdoor Grapes do well on the long rod system, training in four or five 
of the strongest shoots every year and growing them at full length 
during the summer, but in colder parts of the kingdom these long 
shoots do not ripen their wood, and the crop of fruit has to be obtained 
from the old wood year after year by spurring the young growth in 
closely. Outdoor Vines would in many instances succeed much better 
if the shoots were thinned out more during the summer in order to 
admit more sun and air to the remainder. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Vines . —Syringe those well from which the fruit has 
been cut to preserve the old foliage as long as possible in a healthy con¬ 
dition, for when the leaves fall early second growth not unfrequently 
sets in when they ought to be re3tiDg. A moderate extension of the 
laterals will usually prevent premature ripening of the foliage, and will 
not do any harm ; but irregularities of growth and particularly gross 
ones, should be checked by pinching or be entirely removed. Admit air 
to the fullest possible extent, and maintain moderate moisture in the 
border, particularly at the surface, so as to keep the roots there instead 
of allowing it to become dry, and so causing them to descend in quest 
of moisture. Weakly Vines may have liquid manure occasionally, which 
will help the Vines to retain the foliage, and assist them in plumping 
the buds and storing the matter in the adjacent wood. 
Grapes Ripening .—Directly the Grapes begin colouring afford plenty 
of air, a little fire heat being essential to the higher perfection of the fruit, 
especially as regards flavour, insuring a circulation of rather dry air, but 
a fair amount of atmospheric moisture is necessary for the swelling of 
the Grapes and preservation of the foliage in health. Allow the tempera¬ 
ture to fall to 65° at night, otherwise securing a temperature by 
artificial means of 70° to 75°, and 80° to 85° through the day for Black 
Hamburgh and similar varieties with sun heat. Muscats should have 
a night temperature of 70°, 75°, to 80° by day from fire heat and 85° to 
95° with sun heat. Inside borders require a thorough supply of water 
or liquid manure, enough to reach the drainage, and a light mulching 
will keep the surface moist, also preventing undue atmospheric 
moisture. Outside borders must be watered if the weather be dry, using 
the water or liquid manure in a tepid state. 
Grapes Stoning .—Dull and cold weather is the worst possible for 
scorching and scalding. Early ventilation by allowing the moisture to 
evaporate and the atmosphere to gradually warm prevents scorching, 
and a gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes with a little ventilation at 
night and free ventilation by day are the best modes of avoiding scald. 
It is not desirable to close early at this critical period, but do so care¬ 
fully ; and as the liability to scald does not extend over a period of 
more than a fortnight to three weeks give particular attention to 
ventilation. In bright weather succeeding a dull and cold period there 
is most danger of scorching, and with the modern system of large panes 
of glass there is absolute necessity at such times of a slight shade from 
bright sun. A double thickness of herring nets over the roof lights is 
very beneficial, and affords all the shade required. 
Grapes Swelling .—Maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere, 
securing it by a gentle heat in the hot-water pipes, and sprinkle avail¬ 
able surfaces in the morning and afternoon, particularly the latter at 
closing time. Keep the border mulched with short, rather lumpy stable 
manure, not thick, a couple of inches sufficing, additions being made 
from time to time so as to secure a supply of ammonia to the atmosphere 
and nutriment for washing into the soil each time the borders are 
watered. The mulching should be kept moist, and where it is not con¬ 
venient to add fresh horse droppings sprinkle the floors, borders, &c., 
occasionally in the evening with liquid manure. Urine diluted with 
six times its bulk of water, or guano, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water, gives 
out sufficient ammonia for the health of the foliage, and it is inimical to 
red spider. Avoid a close atmosphere, particularly in dull wet weather. 
A little ventilation at the top of the house at night will make all safe, 
but it is desirable to close the house in the afternoon, damping well at 
the same time, allowing the temperature to rise to 90° or 95°, and after 
six o’clock provide a little ventilation at the top of the house, as it will 
prevent excessive deposition of moisture through the night, and the 
foliage will not be so nearly liable to scald should the sun act power¬ 
fully on it before the ventilation is increased, which it ought as soon as 
its rays act on the structure sufficiently to raise the temperature. Early 
morning ventilation is the best preventive of scorching. A night 
temperature of 65°, and a genial warmth of 70° to 75° by day, will be 
sufficient by artificial means to keep the Grapes steadily progressing in 
dull weather. Increase the ventilation between 70° and 75°, allowing 
it to advance to 80° or 85°, and close so as to raise it to 90° or 95°. 
Permit a steady growth in the laterals, but never allow large extensions 
which must afterwards be reduced. Avoid overcrowding, not allowing 
the laterals to interfere with the principal leaves, for upon the free 
access of light and air depend their elaborating power, and the more 
these assimilate the crude material the healthier the Vines are, and 
more fool stored in the Vines for the succeeding year’s crop. It also is 
essential to the formation of the coming Grapes in embryo in the 
buds. 
