•fftily 9, 1891.1 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
17 
SOFTSOAP, SULPHUR, TOBACCO AS FUNGI¬ 
CIDES AND INSECTICIDES. 
(Concluded from page 2.) 
'Softsoap as a fungicide has been briefly alluded to. Mr. 
TV. G. Smith, the eminent fungologist and delineator of everything 
■relating to plants, suggests mixing sulphur with the soapy solution 
for mildew. Everybody believes in sulphur, so do I, but I do not 
believe in undissolved sulphur. Red spider does not like it 
because it interferes with their webs, and on hot days emits 
unpleasant fumes. Thrips set it at defiance, but aphides are made 
uncomfortable. It kills none of those in the form of flowers of 
sulphur. Then there is the mildew. “Surely it kills that,” some 
may exclaim. If it does so, how is it that mildew returns as 
certainly as the seasons ? Professor Scribner, in his new work on 
fungus diseases, recommends sulphur as the only remedy needed 
for powdery mildew (Uncinula spiralis) so common a pest in 
American vineyards, and like our mildew on Vines (Oi'dium 
Tuckeri), wholly external, and does not penetrate to the interior 
of the leaf, shoot, or fruit. He says :—“ Flowers of sulphur dusted 
on the Vines (or in hot climates simply spread over the ground 
beneath them) serves effectually to destroy the powdery mildew. 
No other treatment is necessary to protect the Vines from this 
parasite. In regions where the fungus is most injurious it is the 
custom of Vine growers to make at least three applications. First, 
when the young shoots are about 4 inches long ; second, when the 
Vines are in bloom ; and third, just before the berries begin to 
colour.” Professor Scribner is kind enough to mention “ hot 
climate.” Direct contact is necessary in a cool climate—“the 
flowers of sulphur dusted on the Vines.” It kills mildew in a hot 
climate when placed on the ground by its fumes, and it destroys 
mildew by contact. Sulphur fumes annihilate mildew, and it is a 
nice point to know the exact amount to vaporise from hot-water 
pipes that will kill mildew without injuring the G-rapes. Some 
can do it readily enough. It is only a matter of a little skim milk 
added to flowers of sulphur so as to form a cream, and brushing 
it on the hot-water pipes when heated to 160° or more (sulphur 
vaporises at 170°) with the house closed. I have never had 
occasion to use it in this way for mildew, for the simple reason that 
I have never had a mildewed Vine to deal with under glass, but I 
have seen how others combated mildew on Vines both with it in 
contact and by its fumes. Yet I have used sulphur on the pipes 
•against red spider, and I have always found it inimical to Grapes. 
In their early stages of swelling it produces rust (not a fungus), 
and later the fumes cause Grapes to colour prematurely, often 
causing the berries to crack. Dusting flowers of sulphur on 
mildew-infested Vines spoils the appearance of Grapes. But does 
sulphur annihilate mildew ? Is it more than a palliative ? Take 
.the Rose mildew (Oi'dium leucoconium), dust the leaves and all 
infested parts with flowers of sulphur, syringe with softsoap and 
sulphur. It provents the spread of and in measure destroys 
■Oi'dium, but it does not prevent Oi'dium “ fruits ” maturing, and 
the seeds (spores) from those producing the mature form, Sphse- 
rotheca pannosa, nor this from producing its “ fruits,” which living 
through the winter reproduce Oi'dium the following season. Those 
interested in this subject may consult an excellent article, with 
illustrations, by Mr. W. G. Smith in the Journal of Horticulture , 
vol. ix., third series, page 478. 
That sulphur is not a specific for mildew is abundantly proved 
■by the recommendation of it in some other form than “ flowers.” 
Mr. W. Taylor recommended its transformation by sprinkling it 
'over fresh lime whilst slacking. That forms a lime and sulphur 
powder, but Mr. Taylor did not recommend it for mildew, but as a 
wash for fruit trees, for which purpose it is perhaps unrivalled as 
a fungicide, insecticide, and preventive of birds taking fruit 
buds. Its formula was given in the Journal of Horticulture a 
few years ago. Mr. Tonks brought sulphide of potassium into 
notice as a fungicide or mildew preventer or destroyer. This 
■destroys Gooseberry fungus—dose, half an ounce to a gallon of 
water. Our French neighbours (also Mr. Tonks) advised the use 
of bi-sulphide of lime. There are many formulas, but the 
following is the approved. French : Flowers of sulphur, 1 lb. ; 
fresh burned lime, 1 lb. Slack the lime in an iron pan or copper, 
adding water to form it into a cream, then add the sulphur ; mix 
tloroughly and add 1 gallon of water. Keep it boiling a quarter 
of an hour, stirring briskly all the time, then allow the com¬ 
pound to cool and settle. That effected pour off the clear liquid 
into bottles kept well corked in a dark place. When required for 
use mix a quarter of a pint with 3 gallons of water, half a pint to 
6 gallons, or a pint to 12 gallons of water. This applied 
thoroughly, so as to wet every part on a calm evening before the 
mildew appears—the shoots being about 2 inches long—on trees 
that in previous years were infested, is an almost certain preventive, 
or when the mildew first commences its attack syringe two or 
three times at intervals of as many days, so as to make sure of 
reaching every part, and repeat, if necessary, at intervals of twelve 
to fifteen days. 
But is it the sulphur or the lime that kills mildew ? There is 
no sulphur in softsoap, yet it destroys (rather holds in check) Rose 
mildew. Of course there is sulphur in sulphide of potassium, but 
in this case, is it the sulphur or potash that lays the Oi'dium low ? 
Surely it was the potash, or how are we to account for the potency 
of softsoap in destroying mildew ? It may be mentioned that 
sulphides discolour paint, but it passes off. Those liking to see 
white paint, or any colour into which lead enters, must not use 
sulphides. Let us look at sulphates. There is sulphate of lime, 
32 56 per cent, of lime, 46 51 per cent, sulphur. It has no 
fungicidal value. Sulphate of copper, Professor Scribner says, 
“It is one of the most effective fungicides that can be used.” On 
the Continent of Europe it has l’endered wine manufacture possible 
through destroying Vine parasites. Mr. B. T. Galloway, US. 
Depai'tment of Agriculture, says:—“It is probably the most 
reliable of all ” (remedies for Grape diseases), “ as it has stood the 
test of several seasons, and has never failed us, no matter how 
favourable the weather for black rot and other diseases.” Thus 
the sulphur and lime come to the front in the Bordeaux mixture, 
but Mr. Galloway prefers the ammoniacal carbonate of copper 
solution. The treatment recommended is briefly :—1, In spring, 
before the buds begin to swell, spray the wood with the simple 
solution of copper sulphate (1 lb. to 25 gallons of water). 
2, About the time the leaves are one-third grown spray with 
ammoniacal carbonate of copper solution. 3, Repeat the latter 
treatment when the Vines are in full bloom, and thereafter at 
intervals of twelve or fifteen days. If this treatment has proved 
successful, what is there to account for it but the copper ? The 
sulphur and lime in the Bordeaux mixture precludes its use over 
Vines after the fruit is formed through the danger of spotting the 
Grapes. Briefly, lime spoils Grapes, and sulphur used over bunches 
of Grapes renders them not fit to be seen, much less to be eaten. 
Sulphur in copper sulphide bites keenly, therefore the horti¬ 
culturists of Europe use it in modified form for Vines, and in 
America have as little recourse to it as possible, because of the 
danger of its spoiling the Grapes. 
Sulphur fumes can be of little use as generated from surfaces 
to which they are applied in dusting for mildew. How it acts on 
mildew in the form of flowers of sulphur I do not know, unless by 
acting as a corrosive of the “ microparasitic cellulose ; ” but it 
certainly does not assist the cellulose of the plant in those parts 
impaired by the mildew so as to repair the damage done, and 
cause the fruit to become first class. Flowers of sulphur have no 
manurial value, they act prejudicially on roots, simply killing 
Heaths, and are undeserving of the high value set upon them as 
fungicide or insecticide. 
Tobacco is one of the oldest and still best of insecticides as a 
decoction—namely, strong shag tobacco 1 lb., boiling water three 
gallons, cover over, let stand till cool, then strain. This is effective 
when used as a spray against aphides and thrips. Syringing is a 
wasteful process, more of the decoction running off than remaining 
on the trees. The high duty on this luxury lias caused it to fall 
into little use latterly as compared with former years, but the 
Government have wisely removed those restrictions as regards 
its preparation for horticultural purposes. There is “tobacco 
powder,” in which there may be some sulphur, but I do not know 
the exact terms that govern its preparation, and tobacco liquor, 
also tobacco juice. These are all good and well-known remedies, 
and fumigation with tobacco paper or rag suffocates plant lice. 
The only points necessary are an article free from noxious 
ingredients (particularly sulphur), to have the foliage dry, deliver 
the smoke cool, and not give an overdose.—G. Abbey. 
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
July 7th and 8th. 
The opening day (Tuesday) of the Shows and Conferences at Chiswick 
wa 3 most unfavourable, the weather being stormy with frequent heavy 
downpours of rain ; in fact, it was more like March than July weather. 
The exhibits were not very numerous, but interesting ; one tent was 
devoted to the Fruit and Floral Committee contributions, and the other 
was filled with the hardy flowers, and the only regret was that more 
visitors were not present to inspect the display. The programme for the 
Conferences was carried out as arranged—namely, hardy flowers on the 
first day and small iruits on the second, but we shall have some notes 
to give respecting these another week. 
Fruit Committee. —Present: P. Crowlev, Esq., in the chair; 
and Messrs. P. C. M. Veitch, James H. Veitcb, W. Denning, W. Bates, 
