July 9, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
31 
inverted flower pots as the swelling advances. Fertilise the flowers 
daily until sufficient fruits are set of about equal size on a plant, then 
remove all the flowers and reduce the fruits to three or four on a plant 
according to its vigour. 
Shade only to prevent flagging, it is most needed on bright weather 
succeeding a dull moist period. Melons directly exposed to the sun are 
benefited by a slight shade when ripening, especially when the plants do 
not from indifferent health supply moisture to the fruit freely. Repot 
any plants requiring it, and keep them sturdy by placing them near the 
glass. Look well after canker. It often arises from damp, and the 
remedy is a drier atmosphere or freer ventilation, and rubbing quick¬ 
lime into the affected parts. 
Stopping and Removing Growths .—When the fruit is set and swelled 
to the size of an egg the laterals may be pinched to one leaf, and if this 
results in too much foliage, so that the leaves upon the primary shoots 
are crowded or shaded by them, thinning must be resorted to, removing 
a little at a time in preference to a quantity at once, the latter giving a 
check unfavourable to the fruit swelling, not unfrequently causing it to 
cease swelling ; in that case its rind becomes hard, also in the flesh, and 
it sometimes cracks and exudes through gangrene. The plants should 
be at least once a week, and in the case of vigorous plants twice, for 
stopping and the removal of superfluous shoots, the principal leaves 
being fully exposed to light and air. 
Watering .—Melons never ought to lack moisture at the roots. 
Water must be given before the foliage flags, as when that occurs a 
check has been given which will have its effect. Over-watering is even 
worse, therefore do not afford water until the soil is becoming too dry 
for the support of the plants, but before flagging takes place, when a 
thorough supply must be given. Plants swelling their fruit will need 
water once a week, even those with a large extent of root space ; others 
with lessened rooting areas reqirire it twice a week, and plants in boxes 
every alternate day or oftener, and those in pots will need water or 
liquid manure once or twice a day. When setting and ripening it will 
be sufficient to keep the foliage from flagging, and if watering becomes 
necessary it should be given without wetting the surface more than can 
be helped. A poor growth is not good either for setting or ripening the 
fruit, but a drier condition of the soil is desirable at those times than 
when the fruit is swelling. 
Syringing .—When the flowers are about expanding withhold water 
from the foliage, and when the crop is ripening it must be kept off the 
leaves, and especially the fruit, which would probably crack; but the 
chief cause of fruit cracking is a close moist atmosphere at night. At 
the time of setting and ripening moisture must not be entirely withheld 
from the atmosphere, but damp available surfaces in the morning and 
afternoon. When the fruit is swelling syringe well at closing time, and 
if morning syringing is practised let it be done early ; but it is best 
omitted, damping more liberally. Sprinkle plants in frames or syringe 
at closing time, being careful to keep the water from the collar of the 
plants. 
Ventilation .—As the fruit approaches ripening admit a little air 
constantly, so as to prevent the deposition of moisture on the fruit; 
also when the flowers are setting, for when damp settles on the blossoms 
the pollen is converted into paste, and the delicate organs are destroyed. 
In frames it is always a good plan to provide a little ventilation at 
night, and increase it early in the morning of bright days when the 
temperature has advanced to 75°, and gradually increase it with the 
rising temperature, keeping through the day at 80° to 90°, and closing 
sufficiently early to rise to 95° or 100°, and before night admit a chink 
of air at the top of the house or back of the frame. 
Temperature .—Melons like plenty of heat. This will now be main¬ 
tained without having recourse to much artificial warmth ; it will suffice 
if the night temperature does not fall below 65°, and is maintained at 
70° to 75° by day. In a dull cold period a little fire heat may be 
desirable to maintain a buoyant condition of the atmosphere when the 
blossoms are setting and when the fruit is ripening, and at those times 
the plants in frames will be much benefited by linings placed against 
their sides, and if necessary to the beds, as it allows of a free circulation 
of air, and otherwise the temperature is ruled by external influences. 
Strawberries 1ST Pots. —Early runners for layering in pots are 
best furnished by early planted runners of last year. The plants 
will afford the strongest and best runners for layering that are not 
overcropped, and well supplied with water. The plants should have 
shown blossoms, because runners from fruitful plants always turn 
out better than those from fruitless strong-growing parents. The 
runners may be layered in small pots, turves, or into the fruiting 
pots. All three plans are good. In any case it is essential that the first 
runners, which give the finest plantlets, should be selected, and that 
they be induced by free watering to emit roots speedily, so that they 
may by after judicious attention develope into sturdy plants and form 
good crowns. If layered into the largest pots they need not be detached 
until thoroughly established. 
Those layered in 3-inch pots or turves should, as soon as well rooted, 
be detached and stood in a shady place for a few days preparatory to 
shifting them into the fruiting pots. These may be 5 inches for very 
early forcing, 6 inches for succession, and 7 inches for late work. For 
very early La Grosse Sucrfie and Vicomte3se Hericart de Thury are 
unrivalled for setting, swelling, and finishing fine glossy fruits of good 
quality. Noble sets well, and finishes off a heavy crop of dull-looking 
fruit ; Auguste Nicaise is much brighter, but the quality is not much 
better than Noble, but both are esteemed for appearance. Sir Harry is 
excellent for home use, also President, but neither travels well. Sir 
Joseph Paxton is good in crop and quality, but it mildews in some 
places, and there are none to beat British Queen, Dr. Hogg, and Cocks¬ 
comb for late supplies. Waterloo is valued for its deep colour and good 
quality. The pots must be clean inside and outside, have a large crock 
in each, and three or four of lesser size with some smaller still, so as to 
form about an inch of drainage. This should be secured with the 
rougher parts of the compost rammed tightly down. Turfy loam, strong 
rather than light, must form the staple of the compost. Break it up 
roughly, adding a quart of steamed bonemeal and a similar proportion 
of soot and wood ashes to every bushel of soil. If these are not avail¬ 
able, the advertised fertilisers answer equally well, following in each 
case the instructions accompanying them. Let the compost be 
moderately dry when used, for if wet it will shrink after potting, leaving 
the sides of the pot. Bring the soil in the pot up to the required height, 
ram it firmly, and finish, so that the base of the crown will be about 
half an inch below the rim, which must be left clear for watering, 
allowing a little more for the larger size of pot. Stand the pots on a 
hard base in an open sunny situation, but sheltered from strong winds, 
with sufficient space between them to allow the full exposure of the 
foliage. Give water as required, and sprinkle the foliage a few days after 
potting. If this be followed each evening it greatly assists the plants. 
Wheu the roots are working freely in the fresh soil copious supplies of 
water will be needed, and always give sufficient to moisten the soil 
through to the drainage. The plants must not be allowed to flag, and 
the soil ought not be soddened by needless waterings. Remove all 
weeds and runners as they appear. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Carnations .—Early raised seedlings ought now to be large enough 
for planting out where they are to flower, and without much further 
trouble should give a grand display of blooms next summer. The 
latter remark applies to the ordinary border varieties, as the newer 
Margaret, or Marguerite, should flower freely this autumn. They 
succeed best on sheltered borders and in slightly raised beds, fresh loam 
and partially decayed horse droppings being freely added to the ordinary 
garden soil. Supposing the beds are formed 7 feet wide, a very 
convenient size, with alleys 1 foot wide between them, the former 
would hold six rows of plants at a distance of 1 foot asunder in the 
rows. Disturb the roots as little as possible in planting, and fix the 
plants firmly. After being watered a mulching of leaf soil might 
advantageously be given. Older plants now well advanced towards 
flowering should have their stems lightly and neatly supported with 
stakes, and if extra fine flowers are desired disbud freely. Seed¬ 
lings flower so very abundantly that it is not often possible to obtain 
cuttings or layers from them, but cutting-raised plants usually make 
more growth. " Some of the smaller shoots if taken off now, dibbled in 
boxes filled with sandy loamy soil, and placed in a close frame against 
a north wall, will strike readily. Later on a little gentle bottom heat 
will be needed. Layering the stronger growths may also be commenced 
now, fine strongly rooted plants being quickly had in this way. 
Pinks .—Although these will remain in a fairly healthy free flowering 
state for several years, by far the best flowers are obtained from young 
plants. Fresh beds should, therefore, be made every year, and the same 
number of worn out plants destroyed. Now is the best time for inserting 
the pipings or cuttings. As a rule they strike readily in either hand- 
lights or frames located behind a north wall, but in high and dry districts 
a gentle bottom heat is desirable. A few well drained boxes filled with 
loamy gritty soil, or handlights similarly prepared, will hold sufficient 
cuttings for most gardens, but if extra large quantities are required 
place a layer of partially exhausted and not too dry heating material, 
a mixture of leaves and stable manure answering well, in the bottom of 
a garden frame, treading it down firmly, and on this place about 4 inches 
of fine loamy soil, finishing off with a liberal surfacing of sand. Twist 
off the cuttings from the old plants, lightly trim, and then dibble them 
in firmly 2 inches apart, a gentle watering being given at the finish. The 
frames or handlights containing the cuttings to be kept close and shaded 
from what sunshine reaches them till all are rooted, when they ought to 
be ventilated freely, those struck early being fit for the beds in the 
autumn. Pinks are also easily raised from seed, and if pods are found 
on any of the plants, including the popular Mrs. Sinkins, take care of 
them. Being duly harvested and stored the seed may be sown in gentle 
heat early next spring. 
Budding Roses .—Forward stocks open freely now, and if the buds 
are sufficiently plump these also will part readily from the wood. This 
important operation may be carried out any time during July and 
August, and it often happens that the late inserted buds, owing to their 
lying dormant till the spring, give much the strongest growths. If the 
budding has to be done in hot and dry weather give a good soaking of 
water to the stocks and bud-yielding Roses, two nights in advance, or 
the bark will not rise freely. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Peas.—I t is not often that Peas are seen in better condition than 
they are this season, and they are scarcely a week later than they were 
last summer. If any fail to fill their pods as fast as desirable top them, 
and the same thing should be done if extra fine pods are required in 
this case directly the first flowers have faded. It is further advisable to 
freely thin out the pods, leaving only the best formed, and these, if the 
variety is suitable, should eventually become quite good enough to wm 
prizes. Heavy and very welcome rains have fallen in most districts, 
but in but few cases are these sufficient to well moisten the ground 
