76 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 23, 1891.' 
the Wolverhampton Show has now become so popular, and Mr. Green, 
sen., who has so much to do with the supervision, and his son, the 
courteous Secretary, with the Committee are to be congratulated on 
their success. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Trees in Pots for Early Forcing. —These must be kept free 
from red spider by syringing at least once a day, in hot weather twice, 
directing the force of the water against the under side of the leaves, and 
if this is not sufficient an insecticide must be employed, as it is impor¬ 
tant that the foliage be kept clean and perform its functions to the last. 
Afford liquid manure to the roots, not to the extent of causing exuber¬ 
ance, but to insure a due supply of nutriment, and the storing of assimi¬ 
lated matter in the wood. Pinching to induce a neat habit in young 
plants with fruitfulness must be attended to, regulating the stopping by 
the vigour of the plants and varieties. Strong-growing sorts will need 
to be more closely pinched than those of moderate growth; but in all 
cases avoid crowding the shoots, for fruitfulness is not so much depen¬ 
dant on ample foliage as on a legitimate proportion duly exposed to 
light. The trees must net be huddled together, but each must have 
space essential to the proper development of the tree under all the light 
possible, and free ventilation to solidify the growth as it is made. 
Second Crops. —Planted-out trees started about the new year will 
have the second crop in an advanced state, and it must have a final 
thinning, if not already effected, reserving those fruits near the base of 
the growths, which finish better than those near the points. Thinning 
i3 of vital importance, because fruit-bearing is an exhausting process, 
and the fi>st crop next year having to be borne on the well-ripened 
points of the growths of the preceding year that part must not be 
enfeebled by carrying a heavy load of fruit. First crops are the most 
valuable. Any cultivator can grow second crops, and the chief cause 
of the failure of the first is imperfect ripening of the wood. Nor must 
the energies of the trees be taxed too severely by the second crop if 
they are intended to afford early fruit next season. Attend regularly 
to training and stopping the shoots, keeping the points well exposed to 
light. Train thinly, tie loosely, and leave plenty of space in the ligatures 
for the shoots to swell. Stop side shoots at the fifth leaf, and rub off 
those not required, for spur growths to the extent of crowding is fatal to 
fruitfulness. Afford water copiously through a light mulching of short 
lumpy manure, none surpassing horse droppings duly sweetened. If 
used fresh and too abundantly there is danger of injury to the young 
growths. The dressing is light, admits air, and contains ammoniacal 
elements, which greatly benefit the trees. Liquid manure will be neces¬ 
sary according to the vigour of the trees and the extent of the rooting 
area. Trees in narrow borders may need it every day, others at longer 
intervals. They can hardly have too much water in hot weather, and 
they store more matter in a week of fine weather than in a month of 
dull. The border, however, must be of sound material, and the roots 
active. Forcibly dislodge red spider by syringing twice a day, which, 
with proper feeding, will occasion little need of insecticides ; but scale 
must be removed with a brush and a soapy solution. Admit a little air 
constantly, increase it early; close early with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture, allowing the heat to rise to 90°, and the fruit will swell to a 
good size. Then a circulation of air constantly will enable the grower 
to produce Figs of the highest quality, which are wholesome, nutritious, 
and much appreciated at dessert. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Early Forced Trees. — Trees of 
Alexander, Hale’s Early, Early Alfred, A Bee, Stirling Castle, Crimson 
Ga'ande, and Royal George varieties, started from early D member to 
the new year, have been cleared of fruit, and the wood on which it was 
borne removed. This and the taking out of any superfluous growths 
admits light and air, so that the wood retained becomes hard and brown, 
and the buds attain perfect formation, but this is contingent upon clean 
foliage and proper supplies of nutriment. The trees, therefore, must be 
syringed, and, if necessary, have an approved insecticide promptly 
applied, supplying water, and in the case of weakly trees liquid manure 
to the roots so as to keep the soil healthfully moist. Mulching with 
light rather lumpy manure a couple of inches thick will keep the surface 
moist, the roots active, prevent the soil cracking, and assist in the reten¬ 
tion of the foliage in health. The buds will be sufficiently advanced 
and the wood matured to allow the roof lights to be removed, and this 
should not be further delayed. This secures a sort of rest, has a most 
beneficial effect on the trees, while the soil becomes well moistened by 
the autumn rains. 
Succession Houses. —The crops are ripening on trees that were 
started in February; indeed very early varieties have been cleared of 
their crops. Crimson Galande is remarkably brilliant in colour, 
Stirling Castle large and good in colour, Grosse Mignonne still larger 
and more highly coloured, whilst Royal George leaves nothing to be 
desired as regards size, form, colour, and quality. All points considered, 
it is, perhaps, the best of Peaches grown under glass. Lord Napier 
Nectarine attains a good size, bears freely, has a most refreshing 
piquant flavour, and when ripe to the extent of shrivelling is remark¬ 
ably rich without cloying. Its colour, however, is its weak point, but 
in Dryden is found size, high colour, and fine flavour. It is probably 
the best Nectarine for all round purposes. Pine Apple is richer, a 
pleasing orange and crimson, and as a midseason variety excellent. 
Victoria is of good size and quality, and if well exposed to the light has 
a fine crimson cheek. Those are the cream of Nectarines, and all raised 
by Mr. Rivers. As the fruit is cleared off the trees cut out the wood 
that has borne it, thinning the growths where they are so close that the 
foliage cannot have exposure to light and air. Cleanse the growths by 
means of the syringe or engine with water of dust and red spider or 
other insects, using an insecticide if necessary. Keep the borders moist, 
not soddened, using liquid manure if the trees are weak, have borne 
heavily, and the buds are not developing well, but keep it from those 
inclined to over-luxuriance. Stop all laterals to one joint, but where 
the buds are in an advanced condition allow a little lateral extension, 
which prevents premature ripening of the foliage by continuing the 
root action with at the same time growth on which to expend it without 
danger of starting the principal buds. When the buds are well formed, 
the fruit having been cleared off the trees, remove the roof lights. If 
under fixed roofs ventilate to the fullest possible extent. 
Trees Swelling their Crops. —Those started in March have passed 
the stoning process satisfactorily, as usually happens when the trees are 
not too luxuriant, not hurried in the early stages, and have not been 
overcropped or neglected in thinning the fruit, with a genial condition 
of the atmosphere so as to ensure steady progressive growth. Border 
constituents, however, exert an influence on the stoning. Light, loose, 
rich soil rarely grows Peaches and Nectarines satisfactorily. Rather 
strong loam with some clay or clay marl, so as to afford and store 
potash, old mortar rubbish or chalk to supply calcareous matter, seem to 
suit these fruits best. Draw the leaves aside and raise the fruit by 
means of laths with its apex to the light. Water the inside border 
and outside if inclined to dryness, affording liquid manure and a mulch 
of lumpy manure. Avoid a close surface, for it excludes air, and that it 
be open is as essential for the assimilation of plant food for taking up by 
the root hairs as its elaboration by healthy foliage. Ventilate early, in 
fact leave a little air on all night, syringe by 7 P.M., and through the 
early part of the day ventilate freely. When the sun loses power in 
the afternoon reduce the ventilation and raise the temperature to 85° or 
90° about 4 P.M., with a good syringing and damping of surfaces, but 
it must bs done with judgment, for when water hangs for any length 
of time on the fruit during tbe last swelling it is liable to damage the 
skin, causing it to crack, and imparting a musty flavour ; therefore have 
the fruit dry before night, and when the day is dull omit the morning 
syringing. Directly the fruit commences ripening cease syringing, but 
afford air moisture by damping available surfaces, especially the border 
whenever it becomes dry, ventilating rather freely, and admit a little 
air throughout the night. 
Late Houses. —If it is desired to accelerate the ripening ventilate 
rather freely in the early part of the day and up to one o’clock, then keep 
the heat obtained by reducing the temperature so as to secure 80° to 85°, 
and about 4 P.M. close, syringing well, and no harm will come if the 
temperature rises to 90° or 95°, ventilating a little about six o’clock so as 
to let the pent up moisture escape and the temperature gradually cool 
down. Regulate and tie down the shoots as they advance, allowing no 
more than are necessary for next year’s fruiting, or for furnishing the 
trees. Let all have space for development, keeping laterals stopped 
to one leaf, and retain growth to attract the sap to the fruit. Any 
gross shoots pushing laterals from the leaf buds may be cut back to 
where the buds remain intact, or, if likely to disarrange the equilibrium 
of the trees, cut them out altogether. They only tend to promote 
gumming, imperfect setting, and certain casting of the fruit in stoning. 
Draw the leaves away from the fruits, which raise from the under side 
of the trellis and expose them to the sun. If the fruit is required 
retarded ventilate freely day and night, but do not, as a rule, have 
recourse to shading, though a slight shade obtained by drawing herring 
netting over the roof lights is beneficial than otherwise where the 
panes of glass are large. Observe the conditions laid down in the 
preceding paragraph afeer the fruit commences ripening, also as to 
assisting the swelling. 
Wall Cases. —Secure the growths to the trellis as they advance, 
being careful to allow space in the ties for the swelling of the 
shoots ; neglect of this is a frequent precursor of gum. Keep the 
growths so thin that every leaf has full space for development and 
exposure. Syringe about 7 A.M., the house having a little ventila¬ 
tion constantly, increasing this with the advancing temperature to 75°, 
or if it is desired to accelerate the ripening maintain a temperature of 
80° to 85° at day. but always with ventilation, and close sufficiently 
early to maintain that temperature but not to raise it above 90°. 
Syringe again about 5 P.M. Red spider will not make much headway 
provided the syringing is thorough and the trees arc well supplied 
with water at the roots. Afford liquid manure to weak and heavily 
cropped trees. Thin finally directly the fruit is stoned. Neglect of 
early thinning results in tldn-fleshed, flavourless fruits. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sowing Cabbage Seed.—A good breadth of spring Cabbage is of 
the first importance, a fact brought home to many gardeners in a very 
forcible manner this year—a general scarcity prevailing. The first step 
towards succeeding with this crop is to raise abundance of sturdy p’ants, 
being too sparing with either the seed or ground being the reverse of 
