July 23, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
77 
economical. There are several very excellent varieties available, nearly 
every seedsman of repute having oue or more that can be depended upon 
to do well; and without recommending unlimited collections, it is yet 
advisable to sow at least three varieties. In some seasons all may do 
well, but more often than not what suits one variety does not agree with 
another, too early hearting, premature seeding, or death by frost 
resulting. By sowing two or three varieties all the eggs are noc in one 
basket. It is also advisable, for somewhat similar reasons, t,o make more 
than one sowing. What may be the correct date one season may be 
either too early or too late in the next, and an equal number of plants 
put out from two sowings should meet all contingencies, and in any case 
provide a good succession. In late localities the first sowing may well 
be made during the third week in July, more seed being sown a fortnight 
laler. A week later all round answers well in warmer districts, these 
differences not necessarily being confined to either the north or the 
south, and in most cases there is a particular and long recognised date 
for sowing. Thin sowing, so as to do away with the necessity for 
pricking out the p'ants, answers best, the transp’anting being more 
simply and surely carried out. Therefore select a good open border, fine 
this down thoroughly, water through a coarse rose if at all dry, and then 
sow the Beeds broadcast, well covering with sifted soil from the frame 
ground. If sowing in drills is preferred, water these prior to distributing 
the seed thinly among them. Net over if birds are troublesome, and 
keep off flea and slugs by means of slaked lime and soot dusted over the 
tiny seedlings when the dew is on them. 
Celery. —If properly prepared, the plants being pricked out in a 
thin bed of manure and soil on a hard bottom, they can be transplanted 
to the trenches in the hottest weather without experiencing a severe 
check. They ought to be put out too before they crowd and spoil each 
other, waiting therefore for a showery time being a great mistake. If 
the soil in the trenches has been exposed long enough to become hard 
and dry well water it a few hours prior to planting, and the plants 
ought also to have a thorough soaking before being moved with a 
good square of soil and roots. Late Celery especially usually succeeds 
best one row of plants in a trench, the latter being about 18 inches wide, 
and somewhat shallow on cold wet ground, with 4 feet spaces between 
them. Being put out 8 inches apart nearly as many plants can be 
grown in a trench as would be the case if douole lines were planted, and 
they can be more expeditiously and carefully moulded up. In any case 
deep trenches with hard, dry, and shrinking sides are objectionable, a 
moderate amount of well-decayed manure lightly forked into the trenches, 
from which the roots can readily escape into the surrounding soil 
producing the best though not necessarily the largest Celery. Rows 
well established should have an occasional thorough soaking of water or 
liquid manure, the more advanced haviDg their small lower leaves and 
any suckers and weeds there are cleared away, a little fine mould being 
then chopped down from the sides of the trenches. Use soot and lime 
freely about the plants if slugs are troublesome, and if extra clean early 
stalks are required closely bandage up the stems with several deep folds 
of brown paper, perfect blanching being then insured, whether or not 
they are further moulded up. 
Celeriac. —Where there is a demand for roots of Celeriac no time 
ought to be lost in getting them finally planted out. The crop pays for 
good culture, but should be grown on the surface of tolerably rich ground 
and not in trenches, a space heavily manured for and newly cleared of 
Cauliflowers answering well. In this case the only preparation needed 
is to heavily hoe the surface of the ground and to rake off all rubbish, 
but if ground has been specially manured and dug for this crop make 
it very firm, stout Turnip-like roots and not gross foliage being the 
aim of the cultivator to produce. The plants having been duly pricked 
out in a shallow bed of manure and soil, similar to ordinary Celery, will 
move well and should be put out about 18 inches apart each way, though 
15 inches srrffice for the newer French varieties, these being of more 
compact growth, also forming superior roots to the variety principally 
cultivated in this country. The plants will need watering occasionally 
in dry weather; the ground being kept clean and the surface loose 
between them, is all the further trouble needed. 
Late Peas. —William I., Chelsea Gem, and William Hurst are 
among the best that can be sown for giving extra late dishes of Peas, the 
two last named being particularly suitable, as these can be easily pro¬ 
tected whenever severe frosts are imminent. All being of quick early 
maturing growth, are frequently sown too early, the crops being fit to 
gather before the regular late Peas are over. It is a good rule to save 
seed on the earliest rows of one or more of the varieties named and to 
sow this directly it is ripe. There is then little likelihood of being too 
early, especially this season, while new seed always germinates more 
strongly than any that is older, this being no small advantage at a time 
when mildew and other evils have to be contended with. Open rather 
deep drills, well moisten these, then sow the seed rather thinly and level 
over the soil. Later on mulch between the rows and water frequently, 
the aim being to keep the plants growing strongly, otherwise they will 
crop prematurely. 
Coleworts. —Some imagine this to be a very distinct vegetable, but 
it is really only a form of Cabbage, and Cabbages planted in July may 
often be used for Coleworts in November, but they are not so hardy as 
the Rosette Colewort, and this is the variety that should be grown. To 
be serviceable they should be planted out before July is over. They do 
not grow to a large size, and may be planted at a distance of 15 inches 
apart. They are equally as hardy, and more delicate on the table than 
Savoys in winter. 
If 
11 1 
IB BEE-KEEPER. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Foreign Bees. 
We had hoped to have put several varieties of bees on trial for 
the purpose of testing which was the best, but fear we have been 
frustrated, unless the Heather gives a chance. By far the best 
hives in the neighbourhood belong to a relative of my own. Every 
hive has one cover of supers filled. The bees are first-crossed 
Syrians. It is true, however, his hives are in a better situation 
than mine, although only half a mile distant. Ninety per cent, of 
my hives have superseded their laying queen with a young one. 
Prolificacy in Bees. 
If it was not for the fact of my knowing something of human 
nature I should be completely puzzled to know why foreign queens 
being prolific, and the bees good nurses, bringing many young 
ones forward, making strong hives should be a fault, when the 
same condemnatory writers of prolificacy in bees recommend the 
joining of one or more swarms together. On similar grounds it 
may be said that good honey gatherers is also a fault. As I 
previously reported, my Punic bees during the spring months 
gathered honey when the rest of the bees were comparatively 
idle, resulting in the hives of the former being too full of honey 
to allow full development of the laying powers of the queen. Of 
course there is a remedy for that in having larger hives, or 
depriving sooner than we are accustomed ; but in spite all that can 
be said against prolificacy, it is the key to having large yields of: 
honey. 
Pure Punics. 
I have not as yet had a chance to know the honey gathering 
qualities of these, but on the twenty-fifth day after queens began 
laying I saw young bees airing, and on the 31st many were carrying 
pollen and honey. They are extremely active, and if the smallness 
of the blacks is not against them, everything else is in their favour 
as good bees. 
Supers. 
These aie being filled only upon unswarmed hives, and that 
but slowly. At the present there is little surplus honey. But 
should the weather clear up for a few days a large yield may ber 
expected from both stocks and swarms. Some of the former have 
an extra supply in their upper stock box. Should the weather be 
unpropitious that will be taken, and the bees fed. Swarming has 
given two-thirds more than will be wanted as stocks, but what 
will be done with the surplus bees I have not decided. I do not 
approve of the brimstone pit, but when the bees are not required,, 
and can do no good to already strong stocks, what else can be 
done with them ? Some of the Eastern people eat bees ; if it 
become fashionable here then it will be a ready way of disposing 
of the surplus, and a new article of diet introduced. 
Swarming. 
I have had two or three busy days hiving swarms, most of them 
from hives that were weeks ago enlarged both above and below. 
The nature of bees must be altered before swarming can be pre¬ 
vented, but after all when hives can be induced to swarm early it 
is the best and most profitable system of bee-keeping. Aoung 
queens and new combs are ensured, both essential to profit; for say 
what we will in favour of combs many years old new ones far out¬ 
strip them, and the present year will demonstrate to many the folly 
of keeping other than young queens for stock*. By this system 
with large hives the surplus bees minus the most exhausted queens 
are joined to the young ones, and with plenty of stores for keeping 
them through the winter success is certain, and early swarms with 
profit insured. 
