July 80, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
83 
moderately late variety. Loxford Hall Seedling, a still later 
•'Strawberry, is somewhat fickle and very liable to red spider, but it 
•ought to be given a trial everywhere. Where it succeeds well it 
will be found of very compact productive growth, the fruit being 
large, firm, and briskly flavoured ; and this again is a grand wet 
weather Strawberry, though the plants ought not to be preserved 
more than two clear seasons, the two-year-old stock giving a good 
succession to those fruited for the first time. Laxton’s Latest of 
All in many respects much resembles Loxford Hall, and in all 
probability would succeed where the latter fails. It is of compact 
growth, very fruitful, and altogether a very desirable late variety. 
•Jubilee I cannot persuade to grow sufficiently strong, the start 
being made with very weakly runners. 
In arranging the rows of plants in new beds the habits of the 
different varieties ought to be taken into consideration. Many 
gardeners allow good space between the rows, but fail to do so 
with the plants in the row. They ought not to touch each other 
anywhere, and if this rule was adhered to there would be fewer 
failures in wet weather and super'or crops generally. On rich 
deeply cultivated ground the rows of the strongest and mode-ately 
strong growers should be 3 feet apart, and the plants 2 feet asunder 
in the rows. If this is more space than can well be afforded, grow 
quick growing vegetables between them this autumn. On our 
strong, yet firm, and not much-manured ground, 30 inches is suffi¬ 
cient for strong, or moderately strong growers, 18 inches dividing 
the plants in the rows, and they are cleared off before they overlap 
•each other. This is more space than the sturdy growers alluded to 
require, the rows of these being 2 feet apart and the plants 18 inches 
•asunder in the rows, 3 inches le«s space being enough if they are to 
fruit once only.—W. Iggulden. 
FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS. 
Those who have a good selection of herbaceous plants, annuals, 
and hardy shrubs will during the next few months find plenty of 
materials for working out effective and showy arrangements, but 
care and judgment, as well as good taste, must be exercised. The 
abundance of material in some cases induces an inclination to 
overcrowd, which not only prevents the individual flowers being 
seen to advantage, but is also fatal to the production of that artistic 
lightness and finish which all well-executed arrangements exhibit. 
Another point connected with this matter, which in my opinii n 
does not receive sufficient attention, is to provide a constant 
succession of change in the combinations, for however much 
admired certain arrangements may be when first carried out, if 
repeated often they become monotonous. I hold, therefore, that 
ingenuity in creating varying designs is quite as essential to those 
who would become proficient in this branch of the gardener’s 
ant as taste and skill in executing those designs in the best possible 
way. 
In order to enable the decorator to carry out these ideas the 
common mistake of using too many colours, or too many kinds of 
flowers in one vase or other arrangement, must be avoided. It is 
really surprising what can be effected by associating two kinds of 
flowers with suitable greenery in some cases, and in others arranging 
one variety in each glass or group of glasses, and by frequently 
varying the materials for each group and mixing other suitable 
flowers together. Given the same materials to begin with, if mixed 
in each glass without any definite idea, although the colours might 
be well blended and the flowers lightly arranged, there would be a 
want of distinctness and character. 
At the present time Roses are abundant and good, and they are 
such general favourites that they may always be largely used 
without any doubts as to their giving satisfaction, provided 
they are well arranged, but they are not by any means the easiest 
flower to arrange. They look exceedingly well when placed singly 
in specimen glasses with a few of their own leaves added, these 
glasses being placed at intervals, or grouped upon the breakfast or 
dinner table, or in any other position where they are required. It 
is, however, often desirable to have good masses of them placed 
together, and it is in such cases that they repay extra care in their 
arrangement. So as to avoid overcrowding, baskets filled with 
damp moss, with a few pieces of Lygodium scandens, Asparagus 
tenuissimus, or shoots of Honeysuckle trailing around them, form 
a suitable groundwork on which to arrange Roses; but instead of 
placing them closely together for the purpose of covering up every 
particle of moss, let each flower stand well clear of the other, and a 
few of their own verdant leaves be placed under and around them 
in such a way as to avoid flatness, taking ca’e that the leaves 
point in various directions. A few half-opened buds should also 
■be mingled with flowers in a more advanced state. Some of these 
•may be wired, not to give them a greater length of stem, because 
the stem must be inserted in the moss to keep the flowers fresh, 
but to retain them in the exact position required, as it is im¬ 
portant in all floral arrangements that the flowers point in various 
directions, and that some be elevated above the others. The on’y 
objection that I know to arranging Roses in this way is that they 
do not last quite so long as when placed in water ; but with mos3 
thoroughly wetted in the first place, and the superfluous water 
wrung out, there is not much to complain of on that point. Where 
they are arranged in water in flat dishes, a light wirework frame 
placed over the top enables the operator to use the flowers to the 
best advantage, and plenty of leaves or a few Fern fronds can 
easily be placed so as to hide the wire without giving a crowded 
appearancp. 
Pseonies, which are now fast fading, have this season made a fine 
show, and for arranging in large trumpet-shaped glasses, with 
shoot3 of Syringa and a feathery branch of Prunus Pissardi for the 
centre, few flowers cm excel them. For smaller gla e ses of various 
descriptions the numerous varieties of Shirley Poppies, when 
associated with field Glasses, Ferns, or shoots of the variegated 
Honeysuckle, form charming combinations which are always 
admired, and a few Marguerites arranged with them form another 
pleasing effect, care always being taken to have the scarlet varieties 
placed in glasses removed from the piok or rose-coloured ones. 
The many showy types of both annual and biennial Dianthus 
are now yielding a good supply of their charming flowers, which 
are especially useful for cutting purposes, and are well adapted for 
filling the tops of trumpet shaped glasses, while for the dish-like 
vase, Rose 3 , Clematis, single flowers of Lilians, Petumaq and 
Pansies make a fine show. 
The purple and yellow varieties of Aquilegias placed together 
with a little of their own foliage and a few fronds of some kind of 
Pteris form a striking mixture, while the white form shows to 
advantage when mixed with pink and rose coloured Dianthuses. 
Canterbury Bells, Larkspurs, Delphiniums, Irises all lend their 
varied forms and bright colours to floral embellishments in their 
many distinct features, while later on Phloxes, Dahlias, Gladiolus 
and summer flowering Chrysanthemums will supply a wealth of 
blossoms which are worthy, and indeed indispensable for the adorn¬ 
ment of the homes of the wealthy, and which are also within the 
reach of the cot f ager.—D. W. C. 
o 
SEASONABLE NOTES ON PEACHES AND 
NECTARINES. 
When Peach and Nectarine trees are grown in cool houses the 
fiuit from which is required to ripen by the end of August or early 
in September, special attention ought to be given them during the 
next few weeks in order to secure large well finished fruits. It is 
surprising how much may be done towards the attainment of this 
object by watering, feeding, and good general management during 
the later stages of growth. Where the trees are in good con¬ 
dition by this date the roots will be in a thoroughly active state, 
and therefore able to appropriate large quantities of stimulating 
food if it is applied with judgment. Much depends upon the 
material of which the borders are made as to the amount of water 
required. Where the soil is heavy and not particularly well 
drained much less water will be required than in the case of well 
drained borders of an open nature. In all instinces the only safe 
course to pursue is to examine the soil by thrusting a pointed stick 
or iron rod into it to the depth of a couple of feet, the surface soil 
being often misleaiing, continual syringing keeping it in a fairly 
moist state when the roots below may be in need of water On 
the other hand such is not always the case, and it is bad practice 
to get into the custom of watering borders at regular intervals 
without first ascertaining their true state, especially when the rod 
test is so simple and so sure a guide. These are points in con¬ 
nection with successful culture which require continual repetition 
as each season comes round. 
Another important point where trees are p’anted near wails, 
either in houses or in the open air, is to see that the roots near the 
stems are well supplied with water, for there is often a greit 
quantity of fibrous roots at that point, and the walls absorb much 
moisture, so that it becomes necessiry to give the trees double the 
quantity of water there that they require in other parts of the 
border. All who are not satisfied with the health of their Peach 
trees or the size of their fruits when the trees are not overcropped 
should see that the roots are not starved around the stem of the 
tree. The best of all stimulants that I have tried for Peach trees is 
to sprinkle guano on the surface of the border at the rate of 3 ozs. 
to the square yard, and water it in with liquid manure obt lined 
from the drainings of a manure heap composed principally of horse 
manure. If the liquid manure is of a very dark colour dilute with 
an equal quantity of water. 
Exposing the fruits is often defei red too loDg, with the result 
