July 30, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
97 
somewhat tender. Latest of All gives some very fine fruits, but not 
of the highest flavour. Waterloo is a large dark red Strawberry of 
excellent flavour, but too often a shy cropper. Elton Pine, a good old 
late variety, fine in colour, but rather too acid. Oxonian is the latest 
variety, a fine large fruit and a heavy cropper. The true form is said 
to ba distinct from Eleanor and better. 
The early varieties should be planted in warm sunny positions, 
and the late ones on north borders, which wfill prolong the season con¬ 
siderably. * 6 
After planting mulch the surface of the bed with strawy litter to 
keep the soil moist and encourage root action. This point is important 
in order to secure a good start, and if the weather is dry the plants may 
have a good soaking of water occasionally until they are well started 
into growth ; a good watch must also be kept for runners, which can be 
pinched off as soon as they appear to prevent any waste of energy in the 
plants. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
J INES. — Pot Vines for Early Forcing. —Vines for starting in 
November to ripen Grapes in March or April ought now to have the 
wood thoroughly ripe and the buds plump. If not, keep the house 
rather warmer by day, 80° to 85°, closing early so as to raise the tem¬ 
perature to 90° or 95°, and throw the house open at night. The foliage 
must be well exposed to light, and as near the glass as possible without 
touching. Supply water or tepid liquid manure in the case of Vines 
not inclined to luxuriance in sufficient quantity to prevent the foliage 
becoming limp, but do not give it until the soil is getting dry. 
Lateral growths must be kept in check, leaving no more than are 
absolutely necessary to appropriate any excess of sap, and so prevent 
the principal eyes starting. When sufficiently ripened, as they arc w T hen 
the wood becomes brown and hard and the buds are prominent, they 
should be removed to a position outdoors in the full sirn, standing on a 
board or slates in front of a south wall, fence, or building, securing the 
canes to the face of the wall, only giving water to prevent the leaves 
falling prematurely, and having some waterproof material at hand to 
throw the rain from the pots in case of heavy showers occurring. In this 
position they will rest even if the leaves are not actually shed, provided 
they are not kept too moist. When the leaves turn yellow commence 
reducing the laterals, and when the leaves have all fallen prune, cutting 
the laterals close to the cane, but without injury to the buds, and cut the 
cane back to the length required, or from 6 to 8 feet. Dress all the cuts 
with patent knotting. The Vines should be placed in any cool, airy, 
dry place until required for forcing. Though dryness at the roots is 
desirable, the soil must not be allowed to become dust dry, and the pots 
must be protected from frost by some dry material placed round and 
over them. It will not of course be necessary if fro3t has not access to 
the structure. 
Earliest House. —A dry atmosphere is now necessary, not so much 
to ripen the wood as to induce rest. All laterals must be kept 
stopped and the house cool, with moderate dryness at the roots. 
The inside border may require water, for it is e3sential that the roots 
be kept healthy and the soil not allowed to crack, but if the border 
has been mulched watering may not be required. Outside borders 
may need covering with dry straw or bracken in order to throw off 
heavy rains. This is essential to ensure complete rest, an absolute 
necessity for Vines long subjected to early forcing, saturated outside 
borders tending to late growth, but there should be sufficient moisture 
in the border to maintain growth in the laterals in order to prevent 
the premature ripening of the foliage. A moderate extension in the 
laterals will be sufficient to keep the principal foliage in health. 
Where the Vines are in an unsatisfactory condition preparation should 
be made for lifting, getting fresh loam and clean drainage, so that the 
work can be done quickly when begun. One part of the border only 
ought to be operated on at once, the inside one year and outside the next. 
This prevents loss of crop. The roots should be lifted and laid in 
fresh s il nearer the surface whilst there is foliage on the Vines ; there¬ 
fore work of this description ought not to be delayed beyond the early 
part of September in the case of Vines that ought to be started early in 
December. The Vines will need pruning by the middle of September or 
when lifted a little later. 
Houses Required for Early Forcing. —Vines that have not been 
started early will need as soon as the crop is off to be thoroughly cleansed 
by syringing or the application of an insecticide, and if there is any 
doubt about the ripeness of the wood or the plumpness of the buds it 
will be necessary to keep the house rather close by day, but with suffi¬ 
cient ventilation to cause evaporation and allow the moisture to 
escape. Give no more water to the border than will prevent the foliage 
becoming limp. If the weather prove cold and wet employ fire heat in 
the daytime to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° with moderate 
ventilation, and turn the heat off at night to allow the pipes to cool, 
increasing the ventilation so as to induce a thorough draught, and this 
will soon cause the wood to harden and the buds to plump, ensuring 
rest, which for Vines to bs started in December should be complete 
from the middle to the end of September. When the wood is ripe 
ventilate fully day and night. 
Vines Cleared of Crops. —Through Grapes hanging the Vines often 
become infested with red spider, and by growing plants in the house 
they are attacked by scale and mealy bug, the dry atmosphere also 
encouraging thrips. Thoroughly cleanse the Vines, fumigate on two 
consecutive evenings for the thrips, repeating it in a week or ten 
days ; and syringiDg forcibly two or three times to eject red spider. 
Mealy bug and scale may be eradicated by syringing with the following 
mixture :—One-third gill of petroleum to 4 gallons of water, in which 
8 oz3. softsoap and 1 oz. washing soda have been dissolved, keeping 
it agitated whilst being applied by stirring briskly with a broom handle 
or alternating squirts from the syringe into the vessel, thoroughly 
wetting the Vines in every part. It is be3t done on a calm evening or 
dull afternoon, and should be repeated at intervals of three or four days 
two or three times. If there be any plan*s remove them, and to keep 
the oil from the border it may be covered with dry material. Have the 
laterals fairly in hand, not closely pinched, unless the Vines are very 
vigorous and mot ripening the wood kindly, when keeping the house 
rather dry at night, with all the ventilation possible, and somewhat 
warm and close by day, will promote the maturity of the wood and buds. 
In stopping vigorous Vines regard must be had to the principal buds, 
for when all growth is removed as made it may cause them to start, 
which must be avoided by allowing a little lateral growth, and keeping 
the soil dry at their roots to the extent of causing the foliage to become 
rather limp. Weakly Vines should be fed with liquid manure and the 
laterals allowed to extend, but whatever extension is permitted the 
extraneous foliage must not in any way interfere with the free access 
of light and air to the principal leaves, which must be kept healthy, 
and thus appropriate some of the food and store it in the buds and 
adjacent wood. Free ventilation will be neces3ary day and night. 
Grapes Ripening. —Whilst ripening many Grapes swell considerably, 
therefore do not allow any deficiency of moisture in the border. Give if 
needed a good supply of water or liquid manure, and in the early part of 
the day, so that superfluous moisture may be dissipated before night. 
Heavily cropped Vines should be allowed time, and supplied with tepid 
liquid manure, which, if it does not help the current crop, will prevent 
the exhaustion of the Vines. A good rest at night in a temperature of 
60° to 65° with air is a great aid to Vines taxed to the utmost by weight 
of Grapes. A moderate amount of air moisture also is essential to the 
health of the Vines, sprinkling available surfaces occasionally, and if 
possible allow the laterals to extend, but full or overcropped Vines 
rarely can cater for more than the principal leaves and Grapes. Admit 
air constantly, enough with a gentle heat in the pipes to insure a 
circulation, and maintain a temperature by day of 70° to 75°, keeping 
through the day at 80° to 85° or 90° with sun, and full ventilation. 
Melons. — L'lte Fruit. —A sowing should new be made to afford very 
late Melons. The plants will be fit to plant oirt in about a month, they 
will set fruit in September, and that will be ripe in November. A light 
well heated structure is necessary for this crop, and high culture 
essential to the fruit attaining good size and high quality. Bottom heat 
is necessary, and is best afforded by hot-water pipes, but if it is afforded 
by fermenting materials they must be thrown into a heap, watered, 
and turned, so as to ensure the needful fermentation, and escape of rank 
steam. 
Early Autumn Fruit. —Whatever the quality of Melons maybe, good 
looking fruit is always esteemed if only from a decorative point of view, 
and some consider Melons unique that possess flavour of a high order in 
October. The plants to afford fruit at that time must be planted at 
once, giving them about a couple of barrowloads each of soil made into a 
flattened cone or ridge, about 12 inches deep in the centre. Good, rather 
strong loam is most suitable, and if not over fermenting material add a 
fifth of fresh horse droppings, and in any case a sixth of old mortar 
rubbish. Make the compost very firm, and have it in a moist state 
before planting. Turn the plant3 out carefully, watering them over¬ 
night, so that the roots will come away freely from the sides of the pots, 
and make the soil firm about the ball. Keep the stem slightly raised, and 
water to settle the soil about the roots. The plants must be encouraged 
to make a free growth by syringing at closing, and damping available 
surfaces in the morning and in the evening of hot days. Ventilate 
between fOLand 75°, and keep the temperature through the day at those 
degrees by artificial means, 85° to 90° from sun heat, and close so as 
to raise it to 95° to 100°. Through the night the temperature may fall 
to 65°. 
Fruit Swelling. —One of the great causes of indifferent flavour and 
bad finish is overcropping, therefore the plants must not be overburdened 
with fruit. It is well, however, to wait until the fruit is fairly swelling, 
then reduce the number to two on a weak, three on a moderately 
vigorous, and four on a strong plant. Large and very strong plants may 
be allowed to carry six fruits. Overcropping is highly prejudicial to 
the health of the plants, and unless the foliage is kept in good condition 
to the finish high quality, which depends on solidity, cannot be ex¬ 
pected ; therefore keep the foliage fairly thin, all having full exposure 
to light. Earth the plants, giving copious supplies of water and liquid 
manure, and damp available surfaces with liquid manure twice a week ; 
but it is best to give it often and weak. The drainings of stables, not 
containing washings, should be diluted with five time3 the bulk of 
water. 
Fruit Ripening.— The atmosphere should be kept dry, and a top heat 
maintained of 70° to 75° by artificial means, admitting a little air con¬ 
stantly, a circulation of rather dry warm air greatly improving the 
quality and finish when the fruit is ripening. Water should be with¬ 
held from the house unless there is fruit advanced in swelling, when an 
occasional damping will be necessary for the benefit of the foliage. 
Plants in Pits and Frames —The late3t plants will be setting their 
fruit, it being important that the fruit be set at the close of July or early 
in August to allow time for its swelling and ripening. Give a good 
■watering before the flowers open, and line the sides of the frame and 
bed with hot dung or the mowings of lawns, and give a little ventilation 
constantly at the top until the fruit is set and commences swelling. 
