98 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Ju’y 30, 1891 
This prevents the deposition of moisture on the blossoms and insures a 
good set. Fertilise the flowers daily, and when sufficient are set and 
the fruits swelling of about equal size remove all flowers, and keep the 
growths thin and well stopped, maintaining a warm moist atmosphere, 
but not stagnant, by early closing with sun heat; sprinkle the foliage 
on fine afternoons, and afford water in bright weather about twice 
a week. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Staking Border Plants. —Asters and Stocks of tall growth, miniature 
Sunflowers, Shirley Poppies, and a few other border plants are liable to 
fall about and much of their beauty be destroyed unless they are staked 
in some way. In some- instances light straight stakes of well-preserved 
winter prunings from Apple and Pear trees answer, one being placed 
to the centre of each plant, and the latter secured to it by means of 
raffia ties. Much-spreading plants can, however, be effectively staked 
by means of either birch or hazel spray, much as Kidney Beans are often 
■supported in pots. This plan answers particularly well in the case of 
spreading Carnations, and if done neatly there will be no breaking 
away of the flower stems. Bundling the stems of border plants, includ¬ 
ing herbaceous Sunflowers and Michaelmas Daisies, together gives them 
a very unsightly appearance, and this can be obviated by a judicious 
use of short pea stakes. Much depends upon when this important work 
is done, as should the plants once be allowed to fall about they are not 
•easily straightened again and staked. 
Sweet Peas. —These must be kept well together by means of good 
ordinary pea stakes, and if properly attended to should continue to 
flower freely until severe frosts intervene. One principal cause of early 
•collapse is allowing the plants to produce a heavy crop of seeds. Not 
only is it a good plan to cut the flowers freely for house decoration, but 
the seed pods ought also to be kept closely gathered. If it is necessary 
to save seed, then reserve a few clumps in separate colours if possible 
expressly for the purpose, no early flowers being cut from them, and net 
•closely to save the seeds when ripening. Birds have a great weakness 
for Sweet Peas, and in many gardens they cannot be saved without the 
aid of a double fold of light fish netting. The rows and clumps 
generally ought to be heavily mulched with strawy manure, or if this 
unsightly with shorter manure faced with garden soil, an occasional 
thorough soaking of water or liquid a’so doing much good in dry weather. 
Sweet Peas are such a beautiful and serviceable class of plants that they 
merit all the trouble taken with them. 
Dahlias. —These are somewhat late in flowering, the first flowers, as 
a rule, only just showing colour. Plants confined to one strong single 
stem are the most effective, and are al-o to be preferred for producing 
exhibition blooms. Place a strong, tall stake to each plant, secure 
the central stem to this and allow it to branch freely. If exhibition 
blooms are desired thin out the side branches, and also remove the buds 
and flowering shoots from around the central buds on each reserved 
branch, stakes also being placed to some of the strongest of the latter. 
The plants require abundance of water and liquid manure, thorough 
eoakings and not mere driblets being necessary. Some contrivance for 
shading the blooms is needed, otherwise the colours will not stand 
till the centre is well “up.” Earwigs are frequently very destructive 
among double Dahlias, and in order to entrap these either adopt the 
old fashioned plan of placing dry moss in flower pots, inverting these on 
the stakes jirst over the plants, or else place lengths of Broad Bean 
stalks among the branches. The earwigs will collect in these dry 
places, and can then be destroyed. 
Gladioli. —Seldom have these started more strongly than they have 
done this season, and fine flower spikes should be plentiful. Each 
should be early staked, the ties being so arranged as not to cramp the 
leaves or check the straight growth of the stem. If not required for 
exhibition allow the spikes to branch and flower as much as they will, 
but should exhibition spikes be wanted early remove side shoots, care¬ 
fully stake, and shade the lower flowers on the spike. If two boards, 
18 inches long and 5 inches in width, are nailed toge'her Y-shaped 
fashion, and attached to a fairly stout stake, and one of these made to 
enclose each spike, a good face will be given to the flow r ers, and a ready 
means of shading afforded. Unless the lower flowers are shaded they 
will fade before many of the upper ones open, a short poor spike being 
the consequence. Pass a sheet of newspaper round the boards, and 
gradually raise this according as the flowers open. Should the weather 
be hot or dry the plants to produce show spikes must be mulched and 
freely watered, liquid manure further improving the size and colour of 
the flowers. 
Campanulas. —If the plants of C. medium calycanthema are not 
soon put out on a sheltered border they will not flower very strongly 
next summer. Crowding them in any stage of growth is a great mistake. 
Those to flower in the open may be arranged 18 inches apart each way, 
but double the number of rows and plants in the rows may well be 
pit out, many being potted up late in the autumn or early next spring, 
and the rest of the thinnings be transplanted to other borders or beds. 
They are remarkably attractive either in pots or in the open ground. 
Old plants that have flowered strongly will give yet another display 
this summer, soaking rains having benefited them, but they must have 
all the old flowers and seed pods picked off at once. 
Violets. —Those put out on fresh ground this season ought now to be 
growing strongly, and on moisture-holding soils will require no further 
assistance from the watering pot. On quickly drying ground with 
perhaps a gravelly subsoil they are very liable to red spider, and the 
plants in this case may require to be frequently syringed in the evenings 
•of sunny days, a little flowers of sulphur being mixed with the syringing 
water being a good preventive of red spider. A mulching of leaf soil, 
spent tan, or decayed manure is of the greatest assistance to Violets on 
hot soils, a thin surfacing of either nitrate of soda, common salt applied 
in showery weather doing much to keep the ground cool, and also acting 
as a fertiliser. The ground about Violets generally should be kept free 
of weeds, that unmulched being occasionally stirred with a Dutch hoe. 
None ought to be allowed to form runners, as these will quickly smother 
the parent plants and produce but few flowers. The strong clumps of 
old plants should be trimmed round and cleared of runners the same 
as Strawberries are treated, much stronger flowering crowns inevitably 
resulting. 
PLANT HOUSE3. 
Chrysanthemums. — Cuttings taken from tops may be rooted at 
once in cold frames. The large flowering varieties are invaluable for 
decoration in 3-inch pots with one bloom each. Small free flowering 
varieties are best inserted a number together in 5-inch pots. When 
rooted harden and stand them outside, and treat them the same a9 the 
general stock. Bush plants are producing buds and branching freely, 
but those not required should bs removed, and the shoots disbudded at 
once. The number of blooms required must be decided as the work 
proceeds. If good blooms on bush plants are needed it will be neces¬ 
sary to take the next bud that forms on the shoots that lengthen after 
this date. Free flowering varieties of any section that are required for 
decoration and cutting may be allowed to branch naturally from the 
present time. These give a bountiful supply of useful flowers. Feeding 
will need attention, and strong applications must not be given ; they 
do more harm than good. Strong stimulants burn the roots, and the 
blooms lack depth, that is so essential in a well formed flower. Keep 
standards growing on single stems well tied to their supports, all buds 
that form after the first week of August being taken for yielding 
blooms. It will be necessary to “ take ” any that are missed on the 
terminal bud. 
Salvias. —Where these are grown in pots place them in their largest 
size at once and pinch all shoots that need it, allowing them to grow 
naturally afterwards. From this time these plants will grow rapidly, 
and the main shoots must be secured to stakes as they extend. For late 
flowering S. gesnerseflora is decidedly the best. Its blooms are of the 
brightest colour, they last on the plants a long time, and also in a cut state. 
Deutzias. —These will have lengthened out their shoots where they 
have been assisted indoors by gentle heat. Select an open sunny position 
outside where they can ripen and harden their wood. If possible plunge 
the pots to save watering. 
Solanums. —Be careful to keep these liberally supplied with water, or 
the foliage will turn yellow. Soot water in a clear state is beneficial. 
Where the plants are grown in frames admit abundance of air, and 
berries will form freely. 
Libonias. —Plants that have been kept under glas3 until now and are 
as large as may be desired, may be stood outside fully exposed to the 
sun. This will harden and ripen their wood, without which they will 
not flower freely. Do not pinch their shoots again, as they branch freely 
under cool treatment. 
Bouvardias. —Strong shoots that are springing up from the base of 
those raised from portions of root must be stopped. These will soon 
break again, and other shoots will be induced to spring from the base. 
Plants required for early flowering must not be stopped again. Late 
plants may have their shoots pinched for the last time. 
Roses. —All Hybrid Perpetuals in pots needed for forcing should be 
potted at once. Those that have made good growth in small pots may 
be placed into larger without disturbing them further than is necessary 
to remove the drainage. The fresh pots should be clean and carefully 
drained, and the soil pressed firmly into them. All plants that are in 
pots as large as are required may be turned out, the roots reduced by 
one-third, and replace them in the same sized pots. Use for a compost 
good fibry loam, one-seventh of manure, one 6-inch potful of bone meal, 
and the same quantity of soot to each barrowful of loam. Sand should 
be added freely if the loam is heavy; if light one-seventh of clay may be 
dried and reduced to powder and mixed with the loam. After potting 
stand the plants in a shady position for a fortnight. When they have 
commenced forming roots afresh plunge them in an open sunny position. 
Water with care, but syringe freely to keep the foliage fresh. Tea 
varieties may also be potted, but add one-third of leaf mould to the 
compost for these. _ 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
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APIARIAN NOTES. 
Bees and the Weather. 
The week ending July 20th was to northern bee-keepers one 
of expectancy and disappointment. The temperature was all 
right, being 62£° mean, but the drought was by far too great for 
the secretion of honey, although flowers are in great profusion. 
Work for the Week. 
Hives were dressed as they are to stand at the Heather to avoid 
bee3 mistaking their own, and thus preventing the loss of bees as 
