122 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 6, 1S91. 
the Willow, Poplar, and occasionally the Ash, during the summer months. 
It is a curious creature, for in its position of repose it assumes a menacing 
attitude, lifting the front segments of the body, and it has the power of 
ejecting, from a slit below the mouth, an acid fluid, which it directs 
towards any object by which it is annoyed or alarmed. Also the tail is 
furnished, as you may have noticed, with two menacing (in appearance) 
horns, containing inner horns or tentacula, but these have not any 
ability to inflict a wound, though seemingly barbed. During the winter 
this insect is in the chrysalis or pupa state; the moth, which is fat¬ 
bodied, white, and downy, emerges in May and June. The popular 
name -was probably suggested by the resemblance of this to a white 
cat, but the young caterpillars have a singular likeness to a miniature 
black kitten. 
Pruning- Fruit Trees (,/. IF. Sutton ).—Not only Apple and Plum, 
but also all other fruit trees, should be relieved of superfluous growths at 
once. Overcrowding fruit trees and bushes, which too often resemble a 
wild thicket of growths in summer, then pruning them severely in the 
winter only, is the best method that can be adopted for preventing good 
crops of fruit. If Vines were treated in that thoughtless manner what 
sort of Grapes do you think would follow? Hardy fruits must be 
managed on the same principles that Vines are by the best growers— 
in the full exposure of the leaves towards the base of the laterals to 
light all through their career to render the trees the most productive. 
Branches may be safely and beneficially cut from overcrowded fruit 
trees now, and the summer shoots shortened except where required for 
extension and furnishing the trees. The precise extent of shortening 
cannot be stated in the absence of exact knowledge on the condition 
of the trees. 
Soot Water (H . J.~). —Gardeners make this by tying soot in an old 
sack or a piece of rough canvas and suspend it in a tub of water, Avith 
the aid of a stone at first if the soot does not sink so quickly as they 
wish. The water soon becomes discoloured, and is dark or light accord¬ 
ing to the relative proportions of the soot and the water. Usually about 
a peck of soot is placed in a 40 or 50 gallon tub, and as the liquid is 
taken out more water is added, until the virtues of the soot are extracted, 
the bag being eventually shaken or squeezed to aid the extraction if 
necessary. Soot Avater should be perfectly clear, and may be clarified 
by adding some lumps of lime, stirring well, then allowing all particles 
to settle to the bottom, and scum to form on the surface, and this 
skimmed off the soot water is clear. We have often used it much 
diluted for syringing purposes beneficially, and it has left no sediment. 
As a liquid manure it should be diluted to aboirt the colour of pale ale, 
for syringing it should be paler still. Insects do not like it, while it is 
beneficial to many plants and trees. 
Cucumber Plants Diseased ($. G. 72.).—The leaves are poor 
and thin, the shoots weak, otherwise healthy looking, but the collar 
of the plant is contorted, swollen, and slightly cankered, which the 
application of sulphur may have arrested, drying and hardening the 
surface. This part of the stem contains granular matter, due to stem 
“ eelworm,” probably Gleetus granulosus of Dr. C. Bastian, but there is 
evidence of the acuter form of eelworm in all parts of the plant— 
namely, Tylenchus (vibrio) devastatrix, Kuhn, delineated by Dr. J. 
Ritzema Bos, State Agricirltural College, Wageningen, Netherlands, 
but the late Rev. M. J. Berkeley originally described these nematoid 
worms (vibrios), and they are pourtrayed by Mr. W. G. Smith in the 
Journal of Horticulture, vol. xxxiii., new series, page 74. It is the 
identical species which causes Clover “ sickness,” but the commoner 
form of attack is on the roots, as seen in the nodules or galls in those 
of your plant, and faithfully represented in the figure before alluded to. 
These nodosities are of doubtful origin. They are produced by all 
nitrogen gatherers, as the Pea, Bean, &c., and are common on Gardenia, 
Cucumber, and Melon roots. Some fungi, such as Ustilago, produce 
similar protuberances, and one of these, Ustilago cucumis, is believed 
to be the cause of the Cucirmber disease for which sulphates are said 
by experimentalists to be an excellent remedy. Those taking the 
fungoid view (and they are sometimes present together, but the 
fuDgus generally has priority, so far as we have observed) recom¬ 
mend 2 cwt. sulphate of iron per acre, which is about lb. per 
rod, or f oz. per square yard. This is best applied mixed Avith dry 
powdered clay, say 8 ozs., thoroughly mixed, and disposed on the surface 
Avhen the soil is wet. Half quantity is less effectual, or the full quantity 
applied at twice, therefore apply it as one dressing. It may be used for 
mixing with the soil before putting in the plants, the quantity named 
per yard being mixei with three bushels of soil. We have never known 
heating the turf to 212° to fail in destroying parasitic germs, the turf 
being cooked in an oven or over a wood fire, in the latter case mixing 
one-twelfth of AA'ood ashes Avith the turf. Mr. Willis, at Rothamstead, 
Herts, found a mixture of sulphate of potash, 3 CAvt., and sulphate of 
ammonia, 1 cwt., per acre [about 3 lbs. per rod, or 1| oz. per square 
yard] bad a good effect on “stem-sick” Clover. We recommend the 
following mixture :—Steamed bonemeal, 5 parts, sulphate of potash, 
3 parts, and sulphate of ammonia, 2 parts ; mix, and apply at the rate 
of 5 cwt. per acre, 3i lbs. per rod, or 2 ozs. per square yard. Apply to 
outdoor crops or Clover, and cereals subject to “tulip-root,” Avhich is 
caused by an identical species—namely, Tylenchus devastatrix, during 
moist weather in late March or early April. For “ disease ” in Cucumbers 
the mixture may be used at the time of planting, using the 2 ozs. on 
every square yard of surface, and 1 foot deep in the soil, repeating when 
the plants are showing fruit. Preferably double the quantity may be 
mixed with soil at the time of chopping up the turf, say 4 ozs. to each 
barrowful of soil. Wc use, however, steamed bonemeal 1 pint, soot 
1 pint, Avood ashes 1 quart, to a bushel of soil, and find the mixture 
beneficial; less being used when the soil is rich and there is no fear of 
grubs or wireAVorm, for which a tenth of quicklime mixed with soil a 
few weeks in advance of using is preferable. The lime is essential to 
nitrification, and that produces ammonia from organic matter, the 
ammonia is oxidised and becomes nitric acid, which combines Avith 
potash, soda, and lime to form nitrates of those substances, and these 
are soluble and become plant, foods, in which your soil, although turf, 
and containing nitrogen, is manifestly deficient. Try the dressing of 
steamed bonemeal, sulphate of potash, and sulphate of ammonia as a 
top-dressing, and let. us knoAV the result. We have known a good top- 
dressing of dissolved bones (effected by Avood ashes) comp'etely cure 
Cucumbers of “stem sickness” or “ eelworm ; ” also Melons that -would 
not set their fruit did so freely Avhen treated with superphosphate. 
Diseased Tomato Plants (/dew).—The plants are perfectly 
clean and healthy at the roots, free from tubercles and distortion, as the 
results of attack by “eelworms” (Tylenchus or Vibrio devastator) ; but 
the stem is of a black-green colour, and the foliage of a dark leaden hue, 
so indicative of predisposition to attack by the Potato and Tomato 
disease, Phytophthora infestans ; indeed, some of the older leaves have 
had their juices abstracted by the mycelium of the fungus. There is no 
remedy but to remove the leaves showing grey or brownish specks and 
burn them, and at once dress the plants thoroughly with the following 
mixture :—Dissolve 1J ounce precipitated carbonate of copper in a pint 
of liquid ammonia ; of this one fluid ounce should be mixed in a gallon 
of rain Avater and sprayed on the plants, thoroughly moistening them in 
every part—stems and leaves, particularly on the under side of the 
latter, taking care to have the foliage dry, and to keep it dry afterwards, 
maintaining moisture by damping available surfaces in the morning and 
at closing time, using liquid manure occasionally in the evening, say 
the drainage of stables diluted with five times the bulk of water, or 
urine also mixed with water, or guano may be used, 1 lb. to 20 gallons- 
of water, for damping surfaces other than the plants, using about 
3 gallons to a square rod of surface (30J square yards). This will 
encourage growth in the plants, prove inimical to red spider, and the 
soft genial glow of moisture will cause the spores of the fungus to 
germinate, and the ammoniacal carbonate of copper, as a thin film on 
the foliage and stems, will speedily effect their destruction, preventing 
their tubes pushing through the stomata of the leaves into the tissues. 
The ammoniacal carbonate of copper solution is equally effective against 
Cladosporium lycopersici, or Tomato “scald,” figured in the Journal of 
Horticulture July 10th, 1891. page 57. This fungus also attacks the 
leaves and stems as well as the fruit, the latter represented in the 
engraving alluded to. The fungus (Phytophthora infestans) ought to 
have been attacked sooner, the house being kept moderately dry and 
freely ventilated. The carbonate of copper (precipitated) is prepared 
from sulphate of copper, a formula for its preparation being given in the 
Journal of Horticulture, June 18th, 1S91, page 493. If the solution is 
syringed on it must be done very lightly, but spraying is much better, 
repeating it in twelve to fifteen days, and spraying all fresh groAvths as 
a preventive, for it must be distinctly understood that the remedy', 
so called, is altogether preventive. Once the mycelial threads have 
passed and become seated beneath the epidermis of the plants, nothing 
short of the destruction of the affected parts will destroy the fungus. 
The dark metallic hue of the leaves and plants and the appearance of 
minute grey specks on their surfaces is the latest time at Avhich the 
remedial measures can be used effectively, and they ought to precede 
rather than folloAV infestation. If inconvenient to use ammoniacal 
carbonate of copper solution you may employ the anti-blight, which has 
been advertised, as it is equally efficacious, and does not injure the foliage 
when used discreetly, and in accordance Avith the directions. It is a 
powder, and distributed by means of bellows, the “ Malbec” being the 
most useful and handiest for applying the powder to the under side of 
the leaves, AA’hich is an absolute necessity in the case of plants, as the 
Potato and Tomato, liable to attack by the fungus Phytophthora 
infestans. To prevent its attacks the plants should be dusted not later 
than when the flowers show, but the Potato and Tomato disease does not 
generally infest those plants before early July, beyond which time it is 
not safe to leave them undressed. Potato haulm—all the plant—should 
be dusted on the under side of the leaves as Avell as the upper surface, 
but more particularly the under side, and preferably whilst damp, as in 
the early morning, or after rain Avith a prospect of fine weather. Anti¬ 
blight is a remedy for miLdeAv (o'idium), also cladosporium or “ scald,” 
and it does not injure the tender foliage of Fines, cause Grapes to rust 
or spot, and it is a preventive of Peronospora viticola (the doAvny 
mildew, grey rot, and brown rot), so injurious to the Grape Vine in the 
American vineyards, also on the continent, and making its appearance 
in this country. Anti-blight, like all copper remedies, requires to be 
used in advance of fungoid infestation, for its work is Avholiy preventive 
as regards Phytophthora infestans and Peronospora viticola, for these 
work within the host (Potato and Tomato), and must be destroyed (>f at 
all, or without killing the plants infested) before or AA'hen their germinal 
tubes are piercing the epidermal tissues. The “mildews” are external, 
and can, therefore, be reached by the ammoniacal solution of copper 
carbonate or anti-blight, and at once destroyed. The plants are very 
Aveak. Dress them Avith superphosphate 5 parts, nitrate of potash 
2 parts, mix, and apply at the rate of 2 ozs. per square yard, and work 
in lightly. Repeat the superphosphate (2 ozs.) ODly in three weeks, and 
if vigour is wanted use aloDg with it nitrate of soda, 1 oz. per square 
yard. 
