August 13, 189. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
145 
to be colouring, or advanced therein, and they must have a fair amount 
of air moisture with a circulation of warm air constantly, in which they 
will attain fulness of berry and perfection of finish, diminishing the air 
moisture as the Grapes advance in colouring. Poverty of finish is the 
chief cause of Grapes shrivelling, cracking resulting of a close atmosphere 
following a period of drought, or ventilating injudiciously and an arid 
atmrsphere in the early stages of ripening render Grapes highly suscep¬ 
tible of atmospheric moisture after they are ripe, if, indeed, they do 
ripen without cracking. Afford a temperature of 70° to 75° by day 
artificially, 80° to 90° with sun, and close sufficiently early to increase 
to 90° or 95°. When the sun is losing power put on enough top and 
bottom air to insure a circulation of air ; allow the temperature to 
gradually cool, which rests the Vines, and increase the ventilation early 
with the advancing temperature. The hot-water pipes should, if neces¬ 
sary, have a little warmth in them to prevent the night temperature 
falling below 65° at night. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Spring Flowering Annuals .—Much may be done towards brighten¬ 
ing up the flower beds and borders next spring with the aid of annuals 
and biennials, the be3t among these being Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, 
Corn Marigold, Clarkias, Collinsias bicolor and grandiflorum, Coreopsis 
tinctoria, Godetias in variety, dwarf Larkspurs, Leptosiphon andro- 
saceus, Limnanthes Djuglasi, Nemophda insignis, Pansies, Poppies, 
Saponaria calabrica, Scabious, Silene pendula and pendula compacta, 
Venus’s Looking Glass, Virginian Stocks, and Viscaria cardinalis. The 
Silenes, Saponaria, Pansies, and Violas move well, and some of the 
others can occasionally be transplanted fairly well, but as a rule they 
are best sown thinly in beds, patches, or lines where they are to flower. 
In either case moisten the soil prior to sowing the seed and cover lightly 
with sifted soil. This being done not later than the middle of August, 
and the plants duly thinned, they will become stout and strong ; and, 
being preserved from slugs, will pass safely through the winter. It is 
somewhat late to sow Violas and Pansies, but if the seed is sown in a 
sheltered position, and not disturbed till the spring, they can be trans¬ 
planted and will flower well. 
Tuberous Begonias .—Late raised seedlings of these should be taken 
good care of, as they will form small bulbs for storing, and be of a 
serviceable size next summer. If they are at all thick in the seed pans 
transplant carefully to either a frame or to boxes, using a fairly rich 
light soil, and disposing them 3 inches apart each way. Keep them in 
a moist state at the root while growing strongly, and when the top3 die 
store them in a cool dry place, where severe frosts cannot reach them. 
Larger sizes, if not wanted for the flower beds, would have been best 
located in nursery beds. All that flower, in fact Tuberous Begonias 
generally, should be labelled according to their habit of growth and 
flowering, or whether the flowers are erect or pendulous, the former being 
the best for beds, and the latter for vases and hanging baskets. Note 
their respective colours, so as to be able next season to mass the colours, 
the most effective arrangement. Now is a good time to take cuttings of 
the best varieties. Trim off the lower leaves, cut to a joint, and then 
dibble them in at the foot of a sunny wall or on a raised south border, a 
little sharp sand only being added to the ordinary garden soil. Thus 
treated they will strike root as readily as Zonal Pelargoniums, and form 
email tubers before dying down. 
Verbenas .—Though not so generally used as of old, these are yet 
among the most effective of the summer bedding plants. The greatest 
•difficulty is usually experienced in getting clean, healthy cuttings both 
now and in the spring, but unless these are forthcoming a poor stock of 
plants will be raised. This season, being cool and showery, suits the 
Verbenas well in some respects, plenty of fiowerless young shoots now 
springing up from the centre of most of the plants. No time should be 
lost in preparing plenty of these. Bottom heat is not needed at this 
early date, but would be necessary if the propagation is much longer 
deferred. Place a single light frame on a hard bottom, half fill with 
partially decayed leaves and manure, treading it down firmly, and on 
this spread 3 inches of fine light soil, finishing off with a surfacing of 
silver sand. Shorten quite young flowerless shoots to the third joint, 
removing the lower pair of leaves, and dibble them in one inch apart 
each way. Water gently, keep the frame close, shading heavily on 
bright days, and more lightly on duller days. Do not let them suffer for 
want of a dewing over occasionally, and it will benefit the cuttings by 
having the lights drawn off on fine nights. Thus treated they soon 
strike root, and before the roots become interlaced all the plants ought 
to be carefully raised and placed in pans of fairly lich soil, being 
returned to frames till re-established. In this manner a capital lot of 
sturdy stock plants will be prepared, these wintering best in a cool, airy 
house, only enough heat being turned on to keep out frosts. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gloxinias .—Seedlings should be placed into 4 or 5-inch pots, accord¬ 
ing to their size. If they are not grown too warm they will flower freely 
at a time when outside flowers are scarce. Water carefully until they 
are rooting freely, and shade the plants from bright sunshine only. 
Plants that have flowered should be watered carefully, gradually 
diminishing the supply as they die away naturally'. It is a mistake to 
ripen them prematurely. Do not place them under stages where the 
drip of other plants fall upon them and light is excluded They ripen 
well on a shelf at the back of a vinery where they enjoy subdued light. 
Strpkanotis floribunda .—Plants that have flowered and made good 
growth must be fully exposed to the sun. Admit air liberally to ripen 
and harden the wood. This is the secret of a good supply of flowers 
another year. Syringe twice daily to keep the plants clean, an I do not 
allow the ends of growing shoots to twist together. If they once get 
into this confused condition if mealy bug exists upon them it is 
impossible to keep them clean. In the end they also entail double the 
labour to remove them from the trellis than would be required to train 
the shoots properly as they grow. Plants that are root-bound and still 
growing freely should be supplied with weak stimulants every time 
water is needed. Where an increase in the number of plants is required 
it is a good time to insert cuttings. Growing shoot9 moderately soft, 
with the soft point removed, root freely in heat under handlights. If 
these are kept in a temperature of G0° they will, if potted, make good 
plants by the end of next season. 
Ixoras. —It is a mistake to shade these plants, they ripen their wood 
and flower with greater freedom when fully exposed to the sun than 
when grown in mixed stoves and are shaded. Plenty of cuttings should 
be rooted, soft-growing ends being selected for this purpose. They 
should be inserted singly in small pots, as they root quickly in brisk 
heat. Once they are rooted and will bear full exposure place them on a 
shelf close to the glass, and transfer when ready into 4-inch pots. These 
plants, where plenty of heat is at command, are easily grown, and for 
general purposes they are more effective with one or two trusses of 
flower in 4-inch pots than plants of a larger size. Plenty of heat and 
careful watering are needed, but they are not particular about soil, 
although they do best in peat and sand. We have, however, succeeded 
in growing them well in equal proportions of loam and leaf mould that 
has not been heated, and coarse sand. During the winter the atmosphere 
should not be kept too moist or the syringe used over the foliage. The 
old Ixora coccinea requires the most careful watering perhaps of any. 
Begonia semperjlorcns carminea .—This is one of the best Begonias 
that can be grown, and it would flower all the year round if allowed to 
do so. It will, however, flower profusely eight months out of the twelve. 
Those that commenced in January last have continued to flower up to 
the present time. These plants should be cut back, keeping them on 
the dry side until they break into growth, when they may be turned out 
of their pots and the roots partially reduced and replaced in the same 
size. They will soon commence growth in a vinery or any structure 
where a little heat is maintained. Water carefully until they are rooting 
freely. Cuttings may be inserted singly in 2-inch pots, but it is necessary 
to select shoots that have an eye at the base. Any of the tops will root, 
but they only extend and flower, being useless after they are pruned 
back, unless by accident they force a growth bud at the base. If this 
is provided when the cuttings are inserted all will go well. This applies 
to many evergreen and semi-tuberous kinds. 
Allamandas .—We saw a fine plant recently, and was told it had 
ceased flowering. It was growing luxuriantly, but had not a single 
flower. The reason for this was the plant was crowded with growths, 
and the house shaded. The growths of Allamandas should be evenly 
but thinly disposed over the roof of the house, and be fully exposed to 
the sun. At one time we shaded them during the hottest hours of the 
day, but have found this practice unnecessary, and they make short- 
jointed wood and flower more profusely without shade. From three 
plants not eighteen months old we shall gather before this is in, print 
fully 500 blooms. Every shoot about 1 foot from where they branch 
should be full of flower buds. It is necessary after branching two or 
three times from the base to thin the shoots, and leave only those that 
are required to furnish the roof. Allamandas should under proper 
treatment begin flowering when the growths are 18 inches long, and 
continue as long as water and liquid manure is supplied if they are 
grown in pots. 
Gardenias .—To grow large plants in one season root cuttings at once 
under handlights in brisk heat. It is a good plan to insert soft-growing 
shoots in small pots, and then give them a shift into a larger size. They 
must be kept growing slowly throughout the winter. All plants that 
are to flower during the winter and spring months must be fully exposed 
to the sun. Plants that were cut hard back late must be encouraged to 
make growth in brisk heat. Do not shade them, for healthy vigorous 
plants will grow strongly, and need full sun to ripen and harden the 
wood if they are to flower freely. Supply soot water and other weak 
stimulants to those that have been placed in their largest pots and have 
filled them with roots. Syringe freely to keep the foliage clean, and if scale 
is present dre.=s with petroleum and wa'er, one ounce to each gallon of 
water. Shade afterwards until the oil has evaporated. Although 
Gardenias will bear strong doses of petroleum it proves detrimental in 
the end if resorted to frequently. It is better to give the plants two or 
three applications of moderate strength Ilian one strong dose. 
I 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
. i . i. i. r -1 -1 - i - I -1 - > -1 -1 - r« i~ 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather and Bee Flowers. 
After about a quarter of an inch of rain on August 3rd 
and 4tb, with one fine day on the 5th, dry winds have come, 
and the weather is unsettled again. 
Moorland flowers, like those in the dales, are in great pro- 
