188 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Avgust 27, 1891. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. —Plants against sunny walls have grown more strongly 
than desirable this season, and in some places are already diseased, 
while those in the open are in a still worse plight. Rank growth can be 
checked considerably by reducing the size of the principal leaves or 
those on the main stems, but it is a most unwise proceeding to com¬ 
pletely denude the lower half of the latter. This premature removal 
of the leaves great’y checks the swelling of the fruit, and the latter 
ripen quite as surely, being also less exposed to disease germs, when a 
moderate amount of foliage is left on the stems. All side shoots formed 
at this late date ought to be kept cut out, and it will be no advantage to 
allow the leading growths to extend any farther. Heavy crops, and 
they are no rarity, would pay well for being protected from the rains, 
pit and frame lights not otherwise in use answering well for the pur¬ 
pose. Keeping the foliage dry is the best preventive of Potato blight, 
those plants most exposed to the rains being already affected by this 
dreaded fungus. Some of the more advanced fruit or any just changing 
colour might be cut and forwarded in heat or a kitchen without much 
detriment to the quality, and if there is a great likelihood of the plants 
being overrun by the disease, nothing but greatly improved weather 
preventing this, it is advisable to cut the bulk of the more forward fruit 
and either attempt to ripen it in heat or use it in pickles and pies. 
Very good preserve can also be made of young green fruit, but as Plums 
are plentiful there will be less need to thus utilise the Tomatoes. 
Winter Tomatoes. —In order to be certain of a heavy crop of fruit 
to ripen in succession during the winter the s ait ought in most cases to 
have been made last month, this being particularly necessary where the 
plants are put out all over a border and trained uprightly. The crops 
set most surely when the plants are trained thinly over the roofs of well 
heated forcing houses, and it is quite immaterial whether they are con¬ 
fined to single stems or fewer plants are grown, and these be allowed to 
spread. This being so there is nothing to prevent the utilisation of 
strong pot plants that have already given good crops of fruit. These, 
being either planted out in narrow borders or given a rich top-dressing 
and made to root out, more soil surrounding or mounded over them, will 
quickly push out numerous side shoots, the best placed of which should 
be laid in and the rest cut out. Treated in this manner, well looked after 
at the root, and not kept in a close atmosphere, they do not grow too 
rankly, but may be depended upon to set and swell capital crops through¬ 
out the autumn, winter, and following spring months. If young plants 
are grown these also may with advantage have their roots confined 
for some time in 10-inch or rather larger pots, allowing them to 
root out subsequently into rather rich soil, maintaining their vigour 
without impairing their productiveness. The ribbed varieties, notably 
Large Red and Orangefield, are the heaviest croppers, the newer 
Conference also cropping admirably, and it is one of tne best for winter 
culture. 
Late Planted Broccoli. —It is quite useless to place out tall 
plants or those that have stood for several weeks longer than they ought 
to do in the seed beds in the ordinary manner. Seeing, however, that 
comparatively young plants frequently survive severe frosts better than 
much stronger older Broccoli, it is advisable to continue planting 
them according as Peas, Beans and Potatoes are cleared off the ground. 
They should be dug in, that is to say, be planted as the ground is 
dug. Prepare a sloping shallow trench for the first row, a little short 
manure placed in the bottom not being wasted, and cover the roots and 
stems up to the leaves with fine soil well pressed down. Similar 
sloping trenches should be formed while the ground is being dug, till all 
the space is covered. At this late date the plants may be put out 
18 inches apart in rows 2 feet asunder. The tops will soon attain an 
upright position, and in all probability a late supply of serviceable sized 
hearts be eventually obtained. This plan answers best where the soil 
can readily be broken down, lumpy ground not suiting newly put out 
plants of any kind. 
Celery. —It is surprising how little impression heavy rains make 
upon Celery in trenches, especially after the plants are strongly rooted. 
No greater mistake can be made than to mould up Celery without first 
examining the trenches. These being rather deeply probed may disclose 
the fact that the manure and soil thickly occupied by hungry roots is 
almost dust dry, and that, too, after a spell of wet weather. Earthed in 
this state they will most probably remain dry all the season, premature 
seeding and other evils being the consequence. It is advisable, there¬ 
fore, in most cases to give the trenches a good soaking of water, or better 
still, liquid manure, abundance of soot and a sprinkling of salt being the 
best substitute for the latter. A free use of soot and the salt in mode¬ 
ration are good preventives of slug attacks. The greater portion of the 
rows ought now to be cleared of weeds, runners, and small lower leaves, 
and after the before-advised watering has been given have a little soil 
chopped down into the trenches, this answering the double purpuse of 
benefiting the roots and keeping the tops from opening out too much. 
The more forward, or any required for use in about a month or six 
weeks’ time, this being quite as soon as it is much in demand, ought now 
to be finally moulded up. The stilks should be kept well up together, 
either with the hand or temporary ties, so as to effectually exclude the 
soil from the hearts. Great care ought to be taken not to pack the 
soil against the stalks too closely, especially near the top, as this may 
cause bulging and splitting, while the successional rows should not be 
moulded up much in advance of the growth of the hearts, or this also 
may lead to bulging and splitting at the base. The soil surrounding 
Celery cannot be too light and finely divided. 
Autumn sown Onions. — Tripolis obtained by sowing seed last 
autumn are likely to keep badly this season. They were much damaged 
by mildew, and to make matters worse rainy weather has caused a 
second root growth. All that can be done is to thoroughly harvest 
them in dry vineries, pits, or frame 3 , and then to bunch or “ rope ” them, 
up and keep them in a cool dry shed in preference to storing them in 
heap 3 . Underground Onions, Garlic, and Shallots ought also to be 
harvested as much as possible under cover, and be stored thinly in a 
cool dry place. No time should be lost in sowing seed of Onions to- 
stand out through the winter. Tripolis of sorts are usually preferred,, 
but they are no hardier than the white Spanish types, and there is no 
good reason why some of the latter should not be sown with them. 
The white Tripolis are the mildest in flavour, and form a very good 
vegetable. Room ought to be found for a row or rows of the quick- 
bulbing Queen, and the white Naples is fit for use very early in th& 
season. Single rows of any or all that may be selected between late- 
planted Strawberries, or a good open piece of ground or moderately 
warm border may be sown with them. Thinly sowing in shallow 
drills is preferable to sowing broadcast, unless in the latter case the 
plan of covering the seed with sifted sail is adopted. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Poinscttias .—Poinsettias are not growing satisfactorily under cold" 
frame treatment. It will be necessary to encourage them by artificial 
heat. They should be kept growing steadily, air being admitted freely 
whenever the weather is warm. When fire heat is used leave a little air 
on the frame both day and night. Water with care those plants that 
are compelled to be grown in cold frames, or the roots will perish, 
and result in the lower leaves turning yellow and eventually falling; 
Euphorbias, Plumbagos, and other plants of a like nature will do 
better if they can have gentle heat while the present sunless weather 
continues. 
Begonias .—Though practically at a standstill in cold frames no harm 
will result to plants that are well advanced and already large enough 
for the purpose for which they are required. Care is reeled in not 
giving too much water or allowing the atmosphere about the plants to- 
become too moist. The foliage is liable to damp, especially large- 
foliaged forms of the B. manicata type. Water in the early part of the- 
day, and maintain a moderately dry atmosphere about the plants. 
Those in a backward state of growth should be encouraged by gentle 
heat. Do not grow them too warm or too close. If they are to flower 
well firm sturdy growth is necessary. Place into 4-inch pots all young 
p’auts of B. nitida alba and B. rosea, also B. Ingrami and others that are 
well rooted. Cuttings of the last may still be rooted ; they will be 
useful in spring if wintered in small pots. The forms of B. nitida 
rooted now will also be useful in the stove in spring. Place into 4-inch 
pots seedlings,of B. semperflorens varieties, and transfer smaller planta- 
from the seed pans into small pots. B. semperflorens carminea when 
rooted should be grown in a light position, where it can enjoy a little 
warmth. When ready for transference into 4-inch pots remove the 
points of the plants to induce them to throw up from the base. Where- 
stage room cannot be devoted to the stock of Begonias needed for cutting 
they can be grown well in small baskets suspended from the roof 
of stoves and intermediate houses. Useful baskets can be formed by 
placing a plant of B. semperflorens carminea in the centre and B. Ingrami 
round the sides of it. They soon become a mass of growth, and then 
flower profusely. Few flowering plants are more useful than these for 
furnishing vases for home decoration. Unfortunately they do not travel 
well, even when the utmost care is taken to pack them. 
Lilium candidum .—Imported bulbs can now be obtained, and should 
be potted for early flowering without delay. Large bulbs should be 
placed singly in 7-inch pots, in a mixture of good loam two parts, the 
other part being composed of leaf mould and sand, adding one- 
seventh of decayed manure. Cover the bulbs about an inch below the 
surface, and stand them outside if a cold frame cannot be devoted to 
them. For early flowering it is better to place the pots in a cold frame, 
and cover the surface with cocoa-nut fibre refuse to prevent having to- 
water them too frequently. After flowering bulbs can be lifted from 
the open borders and potted in the same way. The flowering stem 
should be cut down directly the plants have flowered, the sooner they 
are lifted and repotted afterwards the better. 
Lilium Harrisi .—Imported bulbs can now be had, and as they 
flower before the old L. loDgiflorum they are worth growing in quantity. 
The plants are highly appreciated either for grouping or for cutting 
the flowers. Bulbs potted at once may be had in flower by Easter. 
Liliums are much subject to attacks of aphides, and it is almost impos¬ 
sible to grow them without. Keeping the plants clean af.er they once 
start into growth is the greatest difficulty the grower has to contend 
against. Large bulbs should be placed into 7-inch pots, those of a 
smaller size in o 5 and 6-inch. Use the compost advised for L. candidum, 
and give the bults the same treatment. 
Roman Hgacinths .—A good number of these should be potted for 
early flowering. Place five bulbs into each 5-inch pot in a mixture of 
loam, leaf mould, and sand, with one-seventh of manure added. Be 
careful that the soil is in an intermediate state for moisture, so that no 
water is needed before the pots are placed outside and covered with 
ashes. Successional plants should be potted at intervals of three weeks 
or a month until the end of October. 
Freesias .—Pot the main stock of home-grown bulbs thickly together 
in 3 and 4-inch pots. The bulbs increase rapidly every year, and the 
small ones should be placed together in pans, they soon make flowering 
bulbs. After these bulbs are potted place them in a cold frame, and 
