September 10,1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
233 
are well plumped, and not over-matured as occurs under fixed roofs, 
especially with such varieties as Early York and Noblesse. The removal 
of the roof lights prevents the buds falling if taken in time. ' When 
the leaves are all down treat it the same in every respect as the earliest 
house. 
Succession Houses. — Any trees that have a tendency to over¬ 
luxuriance should, as soon as the wood is sufficiently firm, have a trench 
taken out one-third the distance from the stem the trees cover in 
trellis and quite down to the drainage, so as to detach all roots, and this 
may be left open for a fortnight; then the soil may be removed down 
to the roots and picked from amongst them with a fork, laying-in the 
roots in fresh material ; good loam rather stiff being best, with about a 
sixth of old mortar rubbish. If a good watering be given the roots 
will soon grow freely in the fresh material, and the fruits invariably set 
well afterwards. In removing the soil care must be taken not to 
disturb the roots enough to cause the sudden collapse of the foliage. 
Defer root-pruning and lifting until the leaves give indications of 
falling. The above plan is more especially necessary with young trees, 
the taking out of the trench being very effectual in assisting the wood 
to ripen thoroughly. 
Late Houses .—Late varieties are remarkable for size and beauty, 
and if given proper supplies of water and liquid manure are excellent 
in flavour. When kept too warm and dry they are apt to be deficient 
of juice. A free circulation of air is necessary, utilising sun heat if 
the fruit is backward, as with ventilation in the early part of the day 
the temperature may rise up to 85° or 90°, which is of infinitely more 
value than fire heat at a later period. The trees must have sufficient 
water, but a rather drier condition at the roots is advisable when the 
fruit is ripening. Keep the wood thin, stop any growing shoot to 
about 15 inches, and all laterals closely to one joint as growth is 
made. 
Vines. —Young Vines .—These must have every encouragement in 
keeping the foliage clean, removirig all laterals, as growth produced 
after this period is of no value, and maintain a warm well ventilated 
atmosphere until the canes are ripe. The ripening of the wood may be 
accelerated by keeping the house rather close in the day, so as to secure 
a temperature of 85° to 90° from sun heat, opening the ventilators at 
night. Any supernumeraries intended to fruit next season should have 
the laterals cut away to the principal buds, leaving, however, an outlet 
for any excess of sap by a few laterals at the top of the cane, and be 
careful not to injure the principal leaves. 
Late Houses .—Muscats and other late Grapes still require fire heat, 
as they are late this season, accompanied with a free circulation of air, 
. continuing it untd they are thoroughly finished. Muscats should have 
the foliage rather thin, indeed the leaves may be tied aside, as it is 
necessary the fruit have abundance of light and air, so essential for 
thorough ripening and producing the amber colour characteristic of good 
quality and finish. Keep the night temperature at 65° to 70°, with a 
fall of 5° through the night, and turn the heat on in good time in the 
morning so as to allow an increase of ventilation and the temperature 
to be raised to 70° to 75° so as to insure to the Grapes a long ripening 
day, the temperature being kept at 80’ to 85° from sun, and with a free 
circulation of air, 90° to 95°. The heat should be kept up by reducing 
the ventilation with the declining sun, and the temperature allowed to 
gradually decline at night, only keeping warmth in the pipes to allow 
the top and bottom ventilation to be left open to a slight extent so as 
insure a circulation of air, and prevent the deposition of moisture on 
the berries during the night. This should be continued until the 
Grapes are thoroughly ripe and finished, when a gradual reduction 
of temperature must take place, otherwise the fruit will shrivel; 
this must be further guarded against by not allowing the border, 
especially inside, to become dry. If there is any fear of this a good 
watering should be given on a fine morning when air can be freely 
given, and the border may be covered with dry material to keep 
down moisture. A temperature of 50° to 55° is necessary for keeping 
Muscat Grapes in good condition after they are ripe, and other houses 
of late thick-skinned varieties will require a similar temperature for 
the benefit of the Vines. 
Late Houses of Hamburghs .—The Grapes are well advanced in 
colour and ripening. A gentle warmth in the pipes is necessary so as 
to admit a free circulation of air and to maintain the temperature at 60° 
to 65° at night. A little artificial heat during the day will a'so be of 
benefit in allowing free ventilation and making the most of sun heat. 
Hamburghs colour and finish best beneath a good spread of foliage, but 
it is well not to encourage lateral growth now, at the same time the 
tendency to shanking is accelerated by large reductions of foliage, and 
equally so by sudden fluctuations of temperature. A little air may be 
admitted at top and bottom until the Grapes are iipe. If there is any 
deficiency of moisture in the borders it will be better to give a supply of 
water now than delay it until a later period, covering with dry mderial 
so as to prevent damp rising. Outside borders will in most instances be 
sufficiently moist, if not they must be watered, and unless the weather 
become wet they need not be covered at present, but light shutters or 
tarpaulin should be in readiness for placing over them so as to throw 
off heavy rains. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Fuchsias .—Young plants that are rooted should be placed singly 
into 8-inch pots, we 1 watered, and arranged on a shelf close to the glass. 
Keep these plants steadily growing throughout the winter, and then if 
transferred into 5-inch pots they will flower early and prove useful for 
decoration. Where plants have not been rooted cuttiDgs may still be 
inserted, young wood being selected, and as soon as they are rooted 
pot them singly, and give them a start in heat. When this practice is 
followed it is necessary to carefully harden the plants before placing 
them into cool quarters. A temperature that does not fall below 45° 
will keep them moving during the winter. 
Solanums .—Plants that have set good crops of berries and have 
been kept in pots should be supplied with stimulants. Soot water in a 
clear state is most beneficial for these plants ; it acts quickly, and 
prevents the foliage turning a sickly yellow. Careful watering and 
feeding are necessary after the po's are filled with roots, or the foliage 
is liable to turn yellow and spoil the appearance of the plants. Those 
that were planted out and have set well may be lifted and placed into 
suitable pots. Where there is abundance of frame room and the 
Solanums were planted out the plants have a beautiful crop of berries ; 
but outside plants in many localities are not satisfactory. After the 
plants are lifted and potted in loam and one-seventh of manure, place 
them in a northern position and give a good soaking with water. 
Syringe frequently until they commence root activity, when they may 
be placed in a sunny position. 
Bouvardias .—Plants outside are growing too soft owing to the damp, 
cold, and sunless weather. Lift all those that are making robust growth 
and place them into 6 and 7-inch pots, according to their size. Establish 
them on the principle advised for Solanums. When they will bear 
exposure to the sun arrange them in frames or in a cool greenhouse 
where they can enjoy full sunshine. Plants lifted at once will, if the 
present month proves fine, have every chance of ripening their wood 
and flowering profusely. Bouvardias in pots under glass must not have 
their shoots pinched again, but allow them to extend and form trusses. 
If staking is needed supply a central stake, and support the other shoots 
with matting. The trusses are not heavy, and thin pieces of matting will 
support them equally as well as using more than one stake. Feed plants 
in this condition with weak stimulants every time they need water. 
Yellow thrips are troublesome, but can be kept under by a free use of 
the syringe. Fumigation may be resorted to if syringing does not at 
once check their ravages. 
Mignonette .—Plants grown for standards should have the flower 
trusses removed as they appear, and the shoots tied to the trellis once a 
fortnight. Keep the plants perfectly cool, so that strong growth will be 
made until the trellis has been covered, when they may be allowed to 
come into flower. Later plants required only for spring flowering 
should be supplied with their trellis, and given the same treatment. 
Let the whole of these plants stand on a moisture-holding base, and 
during bright weather syringe twice daily. Plants for pyramids can be 
tied to the wires or string as they extend. Care is needed to furnish the 
base first. Water carefully, do not give too much ; on the other hand, 
do not allow them to become dry. Once they are allowed to approach 
drynes 3 the plants become woody, and they seldom do well afterwards. 
Mignonette from seed sown in 6-inch pots and kept in frames until 
germination should be liberally thinned. Fai ure frequent'y results 
from allowing too many seedlings to grow together in the same pot. 
About half a dozen are sufficient. Sow more seed thinly for spring 
flowering. Place the p >ts in a frame, and shade until the seed has 
germinatel, when the plants enjoy full light and abundance of air. 
Calceolarias. — The earliest seedlings are large enough for small 
pots, place them singly into 2-inch, and grow them in cold frames. 
Those of a smaller size should be pricked out singly into pots or pans, 
1 inch apart, so that by the time they fill the space they will be ready 
for potting singly. Shale from the sun, and keep moist. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Bees at tiie Moors. 
An improvement in the weather appears to be taking place, and 
should it continue for ten days the yield of honey will be great, as 
the Heather could not be finer. On the same moors from thirty to 
forty years ago I have known after swarms set down 14 lbs. in 
weight rise to 1 csvt., when prime swarms would be making much 
less progress, and swarming. Tlrs demonstrates in a clear manner 
the value of young queens in hives early enough to allow the brood 
to be well forward at the pr, per time, and proves the fallacy of 
tte dictum that “young queens do not breed much till they are 
thre i months old.” AVhei e the heney gathering is of long duration 
hives judiciously mirage 1 with joung queens provide the key to 
frofitable bee-keeping. 
Slaughtering Drones. 
Notwiths'anding the very untoward season here for bees few 
drones were killed till the 17th ult. On that day a geneial 
onslaught was made both at the moors here and at home. Queen¬ 
less hives, and those with unfertilised queens, were no except'on ; 
