252 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 17,1891, 
sinking with the fermenting material?, require different treatment. In 
their case all the fermenting materials, whether Oak or Beech leaves, or 
other substances, should be removed, and all the surface dressing from 
amongst the roots with a hand fork. Shorten the strongest roots, and 
attend to the drainage, then place the trees in position on the loose 
brick pedestals and surface-dress the soil with the compost named firmly 
rammed into the pots. Supply water to settle the soil, and after this 
keep the house cool, dry, and well ventilated until the time of starting 
in November or December. This is a preferable plan to repotting 
annually, as the trees are less liable to cast their first crop of fruit, and 
it is not advisable to disturb trees in IS or 20-inch pots at the roots 
more than can be helped. In the case of trees that are not in as large 
pots as desired, or when it is thought desirable to increase the root space, 
a liberal shift may be given, the sides of the ball loosened with a hand 
fork, and any straggling roots cut back, also the matted roots in the 
drainage. Provide good drainage, using the same kind of soil for potting 
as previously advised, and ram it as hard as the ball, the soil being well 
moistened before the potting is proceeded with. 
Succession Houses. —Houses in which the trees have ripened off 
second crops of fruit must be kept drier as the days become shorter. A 
little fire heat is necessary, with a free circulation of air to prevent 
damp. The wood must be full exposed to the full influence of sun and 
air. Thin all soft and useless wood, and allow the points of the shoots 
to stand well out to the glass and light. Supplies of water must be 
discontinued for borders that have been properly mulched and watered 
up to the middle of this month. 
Lifting Over-luxuriant Fig Trees. —Gross feeding as Figs are, they 
are in rich borders apt to become too strong, and in that case prepare for 
lifting them as soon as the leaves have begun to turn yellow ; indeed, it 
should be attended to as soon as the second crop of fruit is all gathered. 
Trees in unheated houses that only produce one crop should also be 
attended to, as well as unfruitful trees, so soon as the wood is sufficiently 
ripened. Carefully lift the trees and cut back all long roots, reserving 
the fibres only. Good drainage is necessary. A foot of brickbats with a 
thin layer of old mortar rubbish over them, and then a couple of feet 
depth of soil, composed of good turfy loam, a sixth of old mortar rubbish, 
and a similar proportion of road scrapings, with a bushel of half-inch 
hones to every cartload of loam, form a suitable compost for Figs. 
Place it together firmly, so as to insure a sturdy short-jointed growth. 
Spread out the tree roots evenly, work in the soil amongst them, and 
make it firm, placing them in layers as they rise, and keep them well 
up, not covering the topmost more than 2 or 3 inches. The soil may be 
moist when used, but it ought not to be wet. Give a moderate water¬ 
ing and keep cool and dry. A border 4 to 6 feet wide is very much 
better than one with a much greater width, and the pit-like borders 
filled with rich soil, which becomes a sour mass impervious to air, are 
very unsuitable to Figs. What is wanted is firm sweet calcareous soil 
that will admit of the free percolation of water and air and retain the 
manurial elements essential to the production of fine fruit. 
Melons. — Latest Plants. —While the fruits are swelling water must 
be given. Keep the roots active with tepid liquid manure occasionally, 
and supply ammonia to the atmosphere by damping available surfaces 
in the evening. Maintain a moderate moisture by syringing in the 
morning and at closing time, when a light syringing of the foliage may 
be practised if the weather be bright. Remove all superfluous growths 
as they appear, and admit air early, or at 75°, keeping the bottom heat 
steady at about 80°. Provide a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 70° to 
75° by day, and 85° to 90° with sun heat, closing sufficiently early to run 
up to 95° or more. A little fire heat is necessary to insure a circulation 
of air constantly and prevent the deposition of moisture on the fruit, 
and no more water should be given at the roots than is necessary to 
prevent flagging. This will accelerate the ripening, and do much to 
improve the flavour. 
In manure-heated pits and frames no water will be required, but 
keep the sides well lined and leave a little air on at the back at night. 
Keep the fruit well raised above the surface of the bed. Any fruit 
wished to be kept for a time should be cut with a portion of stem and 
placed in a dry airy room, or, if wanted ripe, in a warm house in the 
full sun ; it ripens better than in cold frames. It must not, however 
be cut until full sized and complete in every respect but the ripening. ' 
Cucumbers. — Autumn Fruiters. —Give every attention to these 
affording copious supplies of tepid liquid manure, removing superfluous 
growth so as to guard against overcrowding, take off male blossoms and 
tendrils, avoiding overcropping, and do not allow the fruit to hang on 
the plants after it becomes fit for use. Maintain a genial atmosphere 
by damping available surfaces other than the plants in the morning, 
afternoon, and evening, but the plants may be syringed in the afternoon 
of bright days. Pinch out the points of the shoots one or two joints 
beyond the show of fruit, looking over the plants twice a week for that 
purpose, and retain no more foliage than can have full exposure to lmht. 
Earth up the roots as the plants advance in growth, only just covering 
them each time they show at the sides of the hillocks or ridges, the soil 
being placed in the house some time previously to be warmed before use. 
All waterings should be of the same temperature as the house. 
Winter Fruiters.— Pot these off or shift them into large pots 
plunging them in a bottom heat of 80° or 90° until the plants are 
established, then raise them near the glass, maintaining a temperature 
of 70° at night, 75° by day, with an advance from sun heat of 10° to 15° 
The fermenting materials, if such are used for bottom heat, must be in 
preparation, throwing into a heap, applying water and turning the 
heap over to induce fermentation and dissipate noxious gases before 
making up the beds. For producing fruit in February, a sowiDg may 
be made at the beginning of next month if plants have not been 
raised previously, but this will not be necessary where there are other 
plants. 
In pits and frames the temperature must be maintained by renovat¬ 
ing the linings as necessary, and night coverings should be applied to 
prevent too great diminution of temperature. Give water very carefully, 
and sprinkle the plants only on bright days. Keep the foliage thin by 
removing bad leaves and exhausted growths, and close early with as 
much sun heat as possible. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Cauliflowers. —In the more southern districts it is not yet too 
late to sow seed of these with a view to having a number of plants for 
wintering under glass, but as a rule it will answer better to sow direct 
on a seed bed where the plants are to remain, protection being afforded 
either by frames, handlights, or benders and mats. Supposing a two- 
light frame can be spared raise this on bricks just clear of the ground, 
and fill in with old heating material, making it quite firm and of 
sufficient depth to bring the 4 inches of fine soil placed on the top well 
up to the glass. Sow the seed thinly and broadcast, taking care to keep 
each variety distinct, and cover with a little sifted soil. The soil being 
moist no watering will be needed, nor ought the lights to be put on till 
frosty weather is anticipated. Look well after slugs, keep clear of 
weeds, and ventilate freely whenever the weather is not severely cold. 
The sturdy plants raised and wintered in this manner transplant more 
readily, and do better than any that have been pricked out in frames, or 
that have been coddled under glass in pots. During ordinary winters a 
considerable number of Cauliflower plants might be wintered in hand- 
lights where some of them are to grow, and also on dry borders and at 
the foot of sunny walls. The Dwarf Forcing, Early London, Mont 
Blanc, Walcheren, Dwarf Erfurt, and Magnum- Bonum are all suitable 
for present sowing, and with two or more of these might well be included 
Veitch’s Autumn Giant, especially so if extra fine exhibition Cauliflowers 
are required early in August. 
Onions. —The spring-raised crops ought now to be well advanced 
towards maturity, and in many instances are sufficiently ripened to clear 
off the ground. Those with their tops still green will scarcely ripen- 
properly, though much might have been done towards altering this by a 
timely twist to the necks. The bulk being ripened, this being when the 
tops are died down, all should at once be pulled; allowing them to root 
afresh greatly impairing their keeping properties ; but before they are 
stored a thorough drying, amounting almost to baking, ought to be given. 
A dry cool empty vinery or empty glazed pit answers well for harvesting 
Onions, though much may be done by repeatedly turning them on dry 
paths or boards, and afterwards they should be stored in cool dry 
sheds. Onions keep best when bunched or roped up, but this work may 
be done in wet weather. Keep the unripened Onions by themselves, and 
use these first. If there is the least likelihood of Onions keeping badly,, 
and there be no early Tripolis sown, sow seed at once on a warm border, 
the quick-growing Queen not being omitted. 
Cabbage. —Seed being sown in July or very early in August there 
ought now to be a number of plants ready to put out, and no time 
should be lost in doing this. A better site for this crop than a newly 
cleared Onion bed cannot well be found. This, in addition to being- 
quite rich enough for Cabbage, is also very firm, the plants put out on it 
growing sturdily and heart in quickly, side leaves being few in number. 
All the preparation needed is to clear off all rubbish and weeds and then 
to stir in, not dig, a surfacing of soot or soot and lime, principally for 
the purpose of destroying slugs and grubs. Carefully lift the plants 
from the seed beds, and if any are affected by the evil known as amber 
or clubbing destroy those already showing traces of it in the shape of a 
knob at the roots, and well coat the roots of the rest with a puddle- 
made of clayey water and soot. Plants that have had their roots 
puddled usually take the most quickly to their fresh quarters, and the 
precaution may well, therefore, be taken generally. It is also worthy of 
note that sturdy starved looking plants obtained from open fields or 
other not very rich and well exposed quarters make the best progress 
when moved to rich garden ground, and such are usually had from those 
who advertise and grow Cabbage plants largely for sale. Any that have 
been pricked out ought to be lifted with a ball of soil and roots and 
replanted with a trowel, but those moved direct from the seed beds can 
be most firmly and expeditiously planted with a blunt dibber. The 
stronger growers, notably Enfield Market, Battersea, Sutton’s Imperial,, 
and such like may be put out 2 feet apart, and the spaces between 
temporarily filled in with small quick hearting Cabbages or Coleworts, 
or the former may be planted 18 inches apart each way, 3 inches less 
answering well for all the smaller or closer growers. Coleworts, of which 
the London Rosette is still the most generally serviceable, are usually 
planted in close succession to autumn raised or Tripoli Onions, a distance 
of 12 inches apart being ample. Failing Onion ground plant Cabbages 
and Coleworts on any well manured and deep'y dug open plot of ground, 
taking care to well break this down and to plant firmly. Slugs are 
most troublesome on lumpy ground, and for this reason it is advisable 
to thoroughly fine down and to frequently hoe the surface of the beds. 
Parsley. —There are few or no more important crops than Parsley, 
and no pains should be spared in preparing as much as possible, 
or abundance for the winter demand. The more “double” or fine 
curled strains are the least hardy, plants of the inferior or older stocks 
frequently surviving when the rest have been killed during the winter. 
The small amount of shelter afforded by fruit trees will frequently save 
