September 24, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
257 
T HAT the subject of planting Apple trees to form orchards will 
occupy more attention in the future than it has done in the past 
no one will for a moment dispute. The societies formed with the 
object of encouraging fruit growing, not only as a pleasure but as 
a means of procuring a profitable investment for capital, are 
inducing many persons to plant fruit where land is at command 
from which the agricultural returns do not warrant a continuance 
of the methods at present pursued. No doubt there are difficulties 
in the way of the tenant farmer at present which prevent his carry¬ 
ing fruit culture to any considerable extent. 
If Apple growing cannot be made to pay under good culture I 
am certain it cannot when such work as planting the trees is carried 
out in an indifferent manner. The selection of varieties is most 
important. Where many persons make a mistake is in having too 
many. Much better is it to plant duplicates of known and proved 
sorts than to extend the list of names. Another important point 
not to be lost sight of is that of selecting those suitable for the 
soil. Some will succeed in one class of soil, while others will 
barely exist in the same place. It is far more a question of soil 
than locality as regards the varieties that will succeed or otherwise. 
Experience or information from a reliable source as to the adapta 
bility of any kind should guide the planter in making a selection 
that is likely to give satisfaction. The soil can be divided into two 
sections—heavy and light—the former being much the more diffi¬ 
cult to manage, and one in which fewer varieties will flourish. If 
the soil is naturally unsuited for certain kinds it is useless to plant 
these, no matter how well the preparation of the soil and sub¬ 
sequent planting are attended to by adding a choice compost to 
start the trees into growth. They may grow fairly well for the 
first few years until the roots travel beyond the prescribed area 
originally prepared, but then the trees commence to “ go back,” the 
most prevalent sign being the decay of the young shoots during the 
winter following their growth ; the trees become thickly coated 
with lichen, and failure results. Few varieties refuse to flourish 
in light soil if rightly managed, therefore those in possession of 
this class of soil have an advantage over others in the matter of 
selection. 
Another point which needs especial study is the site of the 
orchard. It has been said, Never plant Apple trees in a valley. 
The reason is obvious ; spring frosts cause so much damage to the 
crop of blossom, coming, as it does, very often* when the trees are 
in full bloom. A high position is more favourable to success pro¬ 
vided the necessary shelter from winds is assured. That from the 
south-west is considerably the worst for the Apple crop, much 
of which is spoilt through no other reason than being blown from 
the trees through inadequate protection. Shelter is necessary on 
three sides of the orchard—south-west, north, and east, but should 
be so arranged that the tree3 providing the shelter do not shade 
the Apple trees below. It matters little what kind of protection 
in this respect is afforded, but nothing is better than a belt of 
tall deciduous trees placed at some distance from the orchard. 
Shelter derived from trees on the south-western side of the orchard 
preserves the fruit on the trees, while that on the eastern side 
protects the tender shoots and blossom in spring when blighting 
winds prevail sometimes two or three weeks at a time in elevated 
situations. 
It is useless to plant Apple trees on land that is naturally wet 
No. 587 .—Vol. XXIII., Third Series, 
without first draining it, the roots cannot withstand the continual 
moisture which they, of necessity, must receive in such a site. 
Some kinds of soil appear wet and retentive, but at the same 
time are not so in reality. Soils largely composed of clay, through 
which the surface water cannot penetrate, need drainage, but 
where water does not remain on the surface beyond a short time 
owing to the prevalence of stones in the soil, which act as a 
conductor for surplus water, draining would be a waste of time. 
All that is needed in this case is thorough trenching of the soil 
in which the tree is to grow. What I term a profitable way 
of orchard planted trees is to have a combination of Apples and 
grass. The latter if made into hay will provide all necessary 
labour the Apple trees require ; during this time the trees will 
be growing into money. No doubt a better combination could be 
arranged, such as growing Gooseberries, Strawberries, or Rasp¬ 
berries between the rows of Apple trees, but these crops require 
a good deal of labour and attention, more than some would care 
to expend on them. Besides, grass affords a readier means of 
getting about among the trees than where all the soil is under culti¬ 
vation, especially if it be of a strong nature. Lose no time in 
ordering the trees, much is gained by doing this early, better trees 
are obtained, which is important ; there is no advantage in 
deferring linger when once a selection is decided upon. I append 
a list of varieties suitable for heavy soils, classifying them in a 
simple manner, so that if the list is too long it can be reduced by 
making a selection, commencing at the top, as I have placed the 
best in rotation according to my opinion. 
The preparation of the stations in which the trees are to be 
planted requires some thought. All these should be ready at least 
six weeks before planting, to allow time for the soil to settle down 
sufficiently. Some persons do not think about having the holes 
ready for the trees when they arrive, the consequence is the trees 
have to be laid in by the heels perhaps for two or three weeks ; 
in some instances the trees are not taken from the bundles. The 
result of such carelessness is the roots in the centre turn mouldy, 
the fibrous parts are mildewed and useless. Each should be laid 
separately in a trench, covering the roots with fine soil to maintain 
the roots in a fresh condition until they can be planted, which, if 
the weather is suitable and all is ready for their reception, 
ought not to be delayed a single day longer than is absolutely 
necessary. 
Where the soil is of a light description the work is simplified, 
but where the soil is heavy, retentive, and cold much labour and 
thought must be employed to command success. As I have to deal 
with a soil most unsuited for planting any kind of fruit trees in its 
natural state I will describe the method here pursued in planting 
Apple trees for orchard growth. We planted 1100 trees, standard 
and bushes, last November, and did not lose a single tree. For a 
permanent orchard on grass I advise that standards be planted 
30 feet apart, with bush trees alternately, and a full row of bushes 
between each two rows of standards in addition, which will allow 
15 feet of space between, requiring forty-eight standards to the 
acre, and 150 bushes. In planting some fields the number of trees 
required will vary ; where the boundary is not a straight one it 
will be found that more, or it may be less, will be needed ; the rows 
not finishing off in the same order, spaces will be left, in which 
extra trees can be planted as a saving of space. The above 
numbers give a good idea of what will be needed. 
The bushes will not be interfered with by the standard trees for 
at least fifteen years, and perhaps not then entirely. Some varie • 
ties, which are not so strong in growth, would succeed at half the 
distance for several years ; for instance, bushes of Lord Grosvenor, 
Stirling Castle, Irish Peach, and Worcester Pearmain might be 
planted feet apart if the most is to be made of the land how¬ 
ever, this is a matter for personal convenience. 
The prices of trees vary according to quality and the variety. 
Splendid bushes, which will fruit the first year if required, can be 
No. 2243 .—Yol. LXXXV., Old Series. 
