JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 24,189’. 
''258 
^bought for £10 per 100, and perhaps less, although nothing is 
'gamed by buying the lowest priced trees ; standards about £12 10s* 
per 100. These prices are for the best trees of course. Special 
terms may be made when large numbers are required. In planting 
an orchard, whether large or small, some method should be pursued 
so that the trees will be straight in the rows in all directions—not 
^merely from one side to the other, but the cross lines too ought to 
stand in order, not merely for appearance but for convenience in 
removing the lny or cleaning the ground with the horse hoe should 
it be decided to banish the grass crop after a few years as giving 
less trouble. The best plan is to mark out the outside rows first, 
msing two sorts of stakes—long ones for the standards and shorter 
for the bushes. If the extreme outer rows are measured correctly, 
-ana the width from row to row between be accurately noted, the 
rows diagonally are easily adjusted by taking a sight from one 
'tonkside row to the other, fixing the stakes accordingly. It is much 
he best plan to mark all the stations before commencing to dig out 
fhe hole3. This latter can be done by arrangement with local 
labourers, according to the kind of soil to deal with ; -where that is 
heavy, stony, and bad “moving ” from 3d. to 4d. per hole is a fair 
price, and les3 according to the nature of the soil. If holes 4 feet 
square on the surface are marked out, taking off the turf about 
4 inches thick, laying that on one side, the next spit and the loose 
soil in another place ; the rougher and worthless taken out to a 
'depth of 2 feet, depositing this by itself on the side of the hole. 
The bottom is then broken up 3 inches deep, which admits of a 
free percolation for surplus water from heavy or continuous rains. 
Breaking up the lower strata thoroughly dispenses with the 
’necessity of laying drains. I prefer to have the sides of the holes 
jrpendicular ; this needs some attention in contract work, there 
being a tendency to have the holes more narrow at the bottom than 
■the top. My idea is that in a few years’ time, when the roots have 
reached the sides of the holes, if a further width of, say, 1 foot 
xnore on all sides of the station is broken up to the same depth the 
trees will derive much benefit from the fresh food supplied and 
additional rooting space. By doing the work in this manner the 
cost is spread over a greater period, and with advantage to the 
rfcre ts. 
When 'the holes are completed they should be filled in to allow 
tie soil time to settle down somewhat firmly before planting. 
If the digging Is deferred until a short time before planting there 
Is a danger of the trees sinking below the surface too far for 
’their well-being in the future. This is most important in a district 
'■where the soil is inclined to be heavy and a sure producer of 
macker and lichen-covered branches. It seems useless to say, Put 
z\e bad soil at the bottom of the hole, but there it must go. 
Chopping the turf into pieces about 4 inches square, laying this in 
a heap by the side of the hole, as that will be required for planting 
the t ee. I prefer to allow the soil to settle down gradually into 
its place instead of treading it firmly, as percolation is rendered 
aiaer than when the soil is kneaded together in a wet state. Soil 
<s£ a light character gives but half the trouble in preparing the 
sta’tians as does that which is of the opposite texture ; still for 
-Apple growing the heavy soil, if properly managed, will give quite 
a illTactory results. 
'The next point is to prepare for planting the tree3 in the 
-shert®t space after they arrive. Stakes for the standards should 
4ie prepared, and ought to be not less than 5 feet 6 inches long or 
~2 rnehes in diameter. This will allow for 3 feet above ground, 
which is quite sufficient. The dwarf trees will not require stakes. 
What are better than the usually employed tar cord and pieces of 
-.cE.oVk or bags to secure the trees to the stakes ? Are withies made 
from y&ung hazel about the thickness of the small finger and from 
Jto4 feet long? These twisted make capital supports for the 
trees 1 . A loop is formed at one end, which encircles the tree, a 
Handful of hay folded neatly is placed on each side of the tree to 
gj utect the bark. This is kept tight with the withy, a turn is taken 
vsaand the stake, again round the tree, twisting the end itself 
around between the stake and the tree, thus making both secure. 
The tree stands about 6 inches clear of the stake, preventing one 
rubbing against the otlie’*, as is often the case where string or tar 
cord is employed. These withies if well made of suitable material 
will last fully a year, often more, and is by far the best way I 
know of staking any kind of tree. Everyone with the smallest 
experience fully understands what damage is done to growing trees 
through faulty staking by the bark chafing against the top of the 
stake in windy weather, which causes wounds that cripple the after 
growth considerably. 
When the trees arrive they ought to be unpacked at once, and 
laid in rows singly to prevent their roots becoming dry, arranging 
ad the trees of one sort together, which facilitates p'anting. I 
plant the standards first, preserving a straight line. The roots of 
every tree are examined, any wounded parts are cut away, fibrous 
roots spring from these neatly pruned fibreless roots. While the 
trees are out of the ground the roots are covered with a mat. I 
attach much importance to this, never allowing the small fibres to 
become dry. On the surface of the soil in filled up holes we place 
a layer of the chopped turf, the tree is arranged in position, spread¬ 
ing the roots evenly, not allowing any to cross each other, cover 
with a compost of decayed vegetable refuse, wood ashes, and old 
potting soil, thoroughly mixed together. A gentle shake is given 
to the tree, which settles the soil about the roots, another layer of 
chopped turf is added, treading the whole gently to make the soil 
firm. We are guided in this by the state of the soil, if this is wet we 
defer tie treading until it has dried somewhat. Two men follow 
e’esely in staking the trees ; if this is neglected for even one night it 
cf ;en happens that many are displaced in the morning, and the 
work needs to be done again. The trees stand on a small mound 
at first, being on the surface of the soil, which in a few months 
settles down low enough. A mulching of half-decayed stable manure 
3 inches thick is then laid all over the surface, covering the whole 
space of 4 feet, and the roots are thus guarded from the effects of 
frost. Frost does not injure the roots of trees which have not been 
disturbed, but with others it is different. Any extra pains taken 
in this respect well repays the outlay in attention. 
The following are useful kitchen varieties in their order of 
ripening :—Lord Grosvenor, Potts’ Seedling, Stirling Castle, Eck- 
linville Seedling, Warner’s King, Cox’s Pomona, Mere de Menage> 
Lane’s Prince Albert, Lady Henniker, Bramley’s Seedling, and 
Yo:k-hire Greening. Dessert varieties :—Irish Peacb, Lady 
Sudeley, Worcester Pearmain, King of the Pippins, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Gascoigne’s Scarlet, and Baumann’s Red Reinett?.— 
E. Molyneux. 
SALVIAS. 
Those who during the summer months have grown a good 
number of these useful plants will, if cultural details are well 
attended to, be amply rewarded by a good supply of bright 
elegant flowers during the autumn and winter which are useful for 
a variety of purposes. When grown for use as pot plants they 
are extremely effective arranged in masses. Mr. Bethel of Ashton 
Court, near Bristol, usually has a fine display grouped in masses of 
distinct colour, and very imposing they are. They are also 
admirably adapted for interspersing among the other occupants of 
conservatories and greenhouses, their long tapering and brightly 
coloured flower spikes, when arranged with taste and judgment 
among plants of more bushy growth, give that artistic lightness 
and finish which is so desirable. In addition to these good qualities 
Salvias are also of the greatest value for use as cut flowers. A few 
feathery plumes of Salvias when they rise from a thinly disposed 
base of other flowers are certain to find many admirers. 
Many gardeneis would find it to their advantage to pay more 
attention to the culture of Salvias. They may often be seen in 
good condition during the early stages of growth, but by the time 
they are in flower the brown foliage and loss of leaves show that 
the treatment they have received has been faulty. In my opinion, 
the chief causes of this state of affairs are want of feeding and too 
dry an atmosphere after the plants are housed. When the soil is 
well permeated with roots, liquid manure or artificial fertilisers 
should be given regularly in a weak state, with occasional waterings 
