September 24, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
273 
enough for the pips to colour much, through fear of damage by severe 
frost, and in late districts this year many kinds will probably have to 
be gathered before the usual state of maturity is reached. In all cases 
of this kind the fruit should remain on the trees as long as possible ; a 
few slight frosts will not hurt it provided it is not handled until the 
day following, and when it is gathered a little extra care must be taken 
not to bruise it. Fruit should never be gathered into sacks or bags of 
any kind ; always use moderate sized baskets and have them as smooth 
inside as possible. The kind called “ Trucks” or “ Bodges” in Sussex is 
one of the very best. They are made of broad strips of wood curved 
into a circular shape at the bottom and are easily moved about and 
emptied. No matter whether the fruit is to be stored or marketed at 
once, each one should be put carefully into the basket and as carefully 
taken out, for bruises are very easily made. In gathering from tall 
trees all the lower branches should be cleared first so that the fruit on 
them is not much damaged by the ladders, and in placing these against 
the trees they must be put as upright as possible so as not to break 
the branches. The fruit of both Apples and Pears should be separated 
from the tree by lifting it gently upwards, not breaking any portion of 
the tree away with it. If care is not taken in this matter the next 
season’s crop may be seriously interfered with, as many of the flower 
buds will be destroyed. The season of all kinds of autumn Pears may 
be much prolonged by gathering a portion of each kind at intervals of a 
week or so, taking those oil first which are most exposed to the sun. 
Where a continuous supply has to be maintained this system is of great 
service. Pears and Plums for market must not be over-ripe when 
gathered or they will not travel well, but must be gathered and packed 
early enough to keep in good condition while passing from the grower 
to the consumer. On the other hand they must not be sent off too green 
or the salesman will have them left for some time on his hands, and 
they will suffer considerably in appearance before a purchaser can be 
found. Never gather fruit of any kind on wet days or when it is 
moist from fogs or dews, no matter whether it is for market or for storing, 
and always grade and pack all kinds evenly. The smaller sizes are 
of no use either for market or for storing. 
Storing Fruit. —If Apples or Pears are to be kept until after 
Christmas in good condition, a building where frost can be excluded is 
absolutely necessary to store them in. If this is fitted with shelves so 
that the fruit can be spread out in single layers it will be much more 
convenient for inspection, and a smaller proportion will decay than 
•would be the case if laid three or four deep. Much depends on careful 
ventilation, especially during the first three weeks after gathering. 
Many Apples will “sweat” considerably when first gathered, and if kept 
shut up closely will commence decaying, but after the sweating is over 
and the weather becomes cooler the ventilation must be diminished, merely 
giving a little air occasionally in very fine weather to change that of the 
room. A steady temperature of about 40° and a rather dry atmosphere 
are the chief points to aim at. In very severe weather the temperature 
may go as low as 36° without damage, but the room should always be a 
few degrees warmer than the outside atmosphere, or the warm air on 
entering will condense on the fruit, and probably do serious mischief. 
A room partly or wholly underground, if it can be kept dry, is the best 
position for a fruit store. Never use deal or strong smelling boards to 
lay the fruit on, and do not place hay, straw, or newspapers underneath 
it. In severe weather newspapers placed over the fruit will often 
prevent injury from frost, and dry clean hay or straw may be used 
in addition if it is impossible to heat the building in any way. Many 
people would be surprised to see how well the Kent fruit growers keep 
Apples in their hop kilns and store rooms adjoining, merely laying them 
in heaps a foot or 18 inches deep, and covering with straw in severe 
weather to keep frost away. They are never moved until required for 
market, as a rule very few decay, and they keep plump and good with 
but little attention. 
Late varieties of Apples and Pears keep best if put away in drawers 
or boxes after they have lain for some time on the fruit room shelves. 
This will prevent the skin shrivelling and becoming tough, but they 
must be examined occasionally, and not shut up air-tight. Fruit that is 
to be kept should not remain in the baskets after gathering for more 
than twelve hours, and must then be put on to the shelves or wherever 
it is to remain until required for use or for market. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines —Growing Stock .—To maintain a healthy sturdy condition 
in young plants free ventilation on all favourable occasions is essential, 
affording it early in the day and without lowering the temperature. 
Keep the bottom heat about the roots at 80°, maintaining a temperature 
of 60° to 65° by night with 5° to 10° rise by day from fire heat. Newly 
potted plants should have a bottom heat of 90° to 95°, with a view to 
the roots speedily penetrating the fresh soil. Water the plants whenever 
they require it, employing weak and tepid liquid manure, and avoid the 
use of the syringe too'frequently, merely sprinkling the paths and other 
available surfaces. Morning and evening will suffice in all but very 
bright weather. 
Suckers .—Recently started suckers should as soon as roots are plenti¬ 
fully made be raised near the glass, it being essential that those intended 
to be wintered in small pots be brought on very gradually, but they 
must not be withdrawn from the bottom heat, or only for a short time, 
so as not to give the plants a check. When the suckers started this 
autumn are well rooted pot them, draining the pots well. Employ the 
fibrous part only of turfy loam, and do not tear it up too fine, but use it 
in lumps proportionate to the size of the pots. The strongest plants 
may be transferred to the largest pots at once, the size of the pots being 
proportioned to the robustness of the plants or varieties. Jamaicas do 
well in 9 or 10-inch pots, Queens in 10 to 11-inch pots, Smooth-leaved 
Cayennes and similar varieties in 11 to 12 inches, and Providence in 
13-inch pots, which will give fruit of the largest size. Where smaller 
plants and fruit are desired pots an inch or two less in diameter will 
answer. The plants not large enough for transferring to the fruiting 
size should be shifted into 8-inch pots, in which they must be kept until 
spring. Plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 90° to 95°, in which they 
must be continued until the roots have taken freely to the fresh compost, 
when they may be raised, a temperature of about 80° being afterwards 
sufficient. Fruiting plants should have a night temperature of 70°, 80° 
to 90° during the day, closing at 85°. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Trees Ripening the Fruit in July .— 
The trees will now be approaching the resting period and the foliage 
becoming sere. Supply them with water so as to keep the soil moistened 
through to the drainage, but if the roof lights have been removed, the 
trees being in a condition to allow of its being done in August, they can 
remain off until the end of the year or later ; but if the wood is not ripe 
it is not wise to expose the trees to heavy rains and snow. Assuming 
the wood is firm and the buds plumped it is advisable to remove the 
roof lights -with a view to insure complete rest and the thorough moisten¬ 
ing of the border. If the trees are very strong it is not desirable to 
remove the lights, and if the growth is complete and the wood not 
ripening kindly form a trench about one-third the height of the trees 
from the stem, and detach all roots down to the drainage, leaving the 
trench open for ten days or a fortnight, when it may be filled firmly. 
Young trees only require this, but older trees that have the wood very 
strong may be root-pruned and the roots wholly or partially lifted before 
the leaves have fallen. In the case of weakly trees remove the old soil 
from over and amongst the roots, supplying fresh rather strong loam with 
an addition of calcareous matter where the loam is not of that nature, 
making it firm and following with a good soaking of liquid manure. 
Trees Ripening the Fruit in August and Early September. —Cut 
out the wood that has borne fruit, leaving no more than can be freely 
exposed to light and air. Cleanse the foliage of dust and red spider by 
water directed with force from a garden engine or syringe, and repeat 
occasionally. If there is scale promptly apply an insecticide, also 
against red spider and browm aphides, which sometimes attack the 
younger parts of the wood in autumn, and can be destroyed with diluted 
tobacco juice. There must not be any lack of moisture at the roots, 
therefore apply water to the inside borders as necessary to prevent their 
becoming too dry. Afford abundant ventilation, and if the wood is not 
ripening well keep the house rather warm by day and throw the 
ventilators open at night, but a warm, close, moist atmosphere must be 
avoided, as that would be more injurious than otherwise. 
Late Trees. —When the fruit is gathered the trees will need to have 
the shoots thinned where too crowded, and those which have borne 
fruit and not required for extension can be cut out to a successional 
shoot at the base. This, with free ventilation and gentle fire heat in 
dull weather, in cold localities, and the wood strong, will assist in ripen¬ 
ing the growth, which is of primary importance as regards next year’s 
crop. Avoid a too dry condition of the border. The trees must not 
lack moisture, and yet a rather drier condition of the roots is advisable 
whilst the fruit is ripening. Some soft netting will be useful to save 
any fallen fruit, but it must be looped up in small pockets to prevent 
the fruit bruising each other. With an examination of the fruit every 
morning by an experienced person, the ripe fruit being removed, there 
is no necessity for the netting. The fruit is better gathered before it is 
dead ripe, and kept in a light airy fruit room until required. Prince of 
Wales is a magnificent fruit when grown under glass and in warm soils, 
but it is by no means satisfactory against walls and in heavy wet soils. 
Princess of Wales is, perhaps, the grandest of all late summer Peaches, 
attaining to a large size and assuming fine colour under favouring 
circumstances ; and, though Sea Eagle is a pale fruit, its size and good 
qualities render it very desirable. 
Cucumbers. —The plants for winter fruiting should be placed out as 
soon as they are ready, a good bottom heat being essential to success, 
whether it be obtained by the aid of fermenting materials or hot-water 
pipes ; but a somewhat higher temperature is needed to commence with 
if fermenting materials are used, as the heat will decline, and there 
should be hot-water pipes in the bed to keep up the bottom heat when 
that of the fermenting material declines. The soil may consist of light 
turfy loam, with a third of fibrous peat, a sixth of old mortar rubbish, 
and a tenth of charcoal, the whole well incorporated. For imparting 
vigour later rely on liquid manure and surface dressings in preference to 
employing manure in the compost. 
Autumn Fruiters.— Maintain a healthy and vigorous growth by a 
genial condition of the atmosphere. Avoid a close moist atmosphere 
by judicious ventilation, and do not admit cold drying currents. Keep 
the growths fairly thin, going over the plants twice a week for stopping 
and removing superfluous growths, being careful not to overcrop the 
plants. Be sparing in the use of water, especially over the foliage, but 
damp available surfaces in the morning and afternoon, gradually, how¬ 
ever, reducing the moisture as the days shorten and the sun heat 
declines. Add a little fresh soil about once a fortnight to the hillocks 
or ridges previously wormed, applying weak tepid liquid manure once 
or twice a week as may be necessary. Fumigate on two or three con¬ 
secutive evenings if aphides appear, and be careful not to give too 
much. 
