274 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 2-4.1891. 
Strawberries in Pots. — Watering the plants must not be 
neglected, but though plants in the open ground do not suffer from 
continued rains, yet those in pots are seriously injured by continued 
needless waterings ; therefore only supply water as required, not allowing 
the plants to “ flag,” but permit the soil to become moderately dry before 
giving any, and then afford a thorough supply. This more particularly 
applies to the varieties intended for early forcing, which should soon 
be given the protection of frames, only using the lights in frosty weather, 
and to throw off heavy rains and snow, ventilating freely when the 
weather is mild. Any plants that have the soil very wet, and remain so 
for some time without watering, should have the drainage seen to, as 
worms, or the material on which they are placed, choke the drainage or 
outlet, rendering the soil sodden, in which no plant will thrive. Expel 
worms from the pots with limewater, and rectify the drainage where 
defective. The crowns are often numerous in some varieties, especially 
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, a number of small crowns clustering 
round the central one. Remove the small crowns sideways with a 
wedge-like piece of wood without injuring the leaves or central crown. 
This will concentrate all the vigour of the plant on the chief crown, and 
though there will be fewer trusses of bloom, there is no need to fear a 
deficiency of crop. There is nothing like a loose surface for Strawberries 
in pots, which prevents the soil leaving the sides of the pots, and admits 
of the water passing evenly through the ball, moistening the soil 
thoroughly. A little dried horse droppings or cow manure rubbed 
through a quarter-inch sieve applied to the surface of the pots will keep 
all right there. Remove all runners as they appear, also weeds, and do 
not allow the plants to suffer through want of room, giving them plenty 
of space for the full exposure of the foliage to light and air, which is 
essential to a sturdy growth and plump well developed crowns. 
Autumn Fruiters. —Where early forced plants have been grown on 
through the summer, with a view to affording fruit in late summer and 
autumn, the plants will have the fruit well advanced in swelling, and 
will need encouragement with liquid manure up to time of the fruit 
showing colour for ripening, and when that takes place the plants 
should be placed in frames, especially in case of heavy rains, affording 
abundant ventilation, which will improve the quality of the fruit. Late 
forced plants of La G-rosse Sucrde and Sir Harry are showing and 
swelling admirably, both being greatly in advance of Vicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury, which, though a free bearer, is small, yet very 
handsome for jellies, and when well thinned the fruit is improved in 
size whilst the quality is superior. Any of the autumn fruiters not 
required for some time yet may be retarded by placing them on a north 
border. Good fruit may be had by taking up some of the most 
promising of the planted out forced Strawberries, lifting them carefully 
and placing them in rich compost in pots. Arrange them in a frame 
kept close until they have pushed fresh roots, then ventilate freely, and 
afterwards place them on shelves near the glass in a house with a 
minimum temperature of 50°, and afford a free circulation of air. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Floioer Beds in Wet Weather.— Once more (he Tuberous Begonias 
have demonstrated their superiority and reliableness, in wet seasons 
especially. Heavy and continuous rains appear to benefit them rather 
than otherwise, whereas the Zonal Pelargoniums present a very sorry 
spectacle. Begonias ought always to have good room, and if any less 
ornamental plants are encroaching on their space trim them back at 
once. Marguerites are growing far too strongly, and in many cases 
might with advantage have a spade or long trowel run round them 
6 inches clear, or rather less, of the stems so as to cut through many 
of the wide spreading roots, this checking top growth considerably, and 
they will also lift more readily later on. If the tops of these, as well as 
the stronger growing Heliotropes and rank Zonal Pelargoniums over¬ 
grow less vigorous plants near them it is advisable to trim them back 
somewhat, as we may yet have a brief period of dry, summer-like 
weather before frosts intervene. Bedding Asters, notably those of stiff, 
erect growth with broad flat flowers, have failed badly and are now not 
fit to occupy prominent beds or borders. In some cases they ought to 
be cleared off and the beds temporarily filled with mixed pot plants. 
Propagating Zonal Pelargoniums. —Cuttings are only too plentiful) 
but they are very sappy, and more than ordinary pains must be taken or 
they will strike badly. A start ought to be made at once. Abundance 
of cuttings may be taken off without greatly disfiguring the beds, a dry 
day being chosen for the operation. After the cuttings have been 
denuded of most of the older leaves and trimmed to a joint lay them in 
a dry sunny place till they flag considerably, the wounds also drying. 
Thus getting rid of much superfluous moisture is a step in the right 
direction, but this is not enough. The watering after they are inserted 
in either pots or boxes must be deferred for several days, only enough 
being given to keep the cuttings from shrivelling. The commoner 
varieties, or those of a somewhat vigorous habit, will winter fairly well 
in pans and boxes ; but the more delicate sorts, including the variegated 
and bronze Zonals, will not. Three-inch or slightly larger pots will each 
hold six or seven strong cuttings, and but few of these damp off during 
the winter. Added to this they can be arranged very thickly on 
suspended and back shelves in vineries, Peach houses, and other 
structures from which frosts are excluded, and cuttings well established 
in small pots also keep the best in frames and pits. It is not good 
policy to place the cuttings in the open this season, saturation of the 
soil being fatal to sappy cutlings, and the least that can be done is to 
set them in dry pits or frames till they are well rooted. The more 
delicate tricolors and bronze Zonals struck late do not often winter 
satisfactorily, and with these the wiser practice is to leave the plants 
intact, taking care to lift and store them somewhat thickly in 7-inch or 
rather larger pots before they are frosted. Kept in a warm dry green¬ 
house few or no plants will be lost, and a good lot of cuttings be 
available next spring. 
Propagating other Redding Plants. —If no Iresines, Alternantheras, 
Coleuses, or Heliotropes have been kept in pots no time ought to 
be lost in propagating the requisite number of stock plants. There are 
plenty of soft young tops, and if some of these are duly made into 
cuttings and inserted thinly in 5-inch pots, the latter being well drained 
and filled with light sandy soil, they will strike quickly in a fairly brisk 
but not too moist heat. Cuttings from the open air plants are apt to 
damp off if kept too close or moist, as they are very different to the less 
succulent cuttings obtained from pot plants. Should the cuttings fail 
to strike then must the required number of old plants be potted up 
before frosts have crippled them. Shrubby Calceolarias, Gazanias, and 
Violas need not be propagated before October, late struck plants winter¬ 
ing the most surely in cold frames or pits. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Crotons. —Plants that have fine heads and have become bare at tile 
base may be partially cut through and mossed. Where they can be kept 
close and moist they will quickly throw out roots, and be well estab¬ 
lished in small pots before winter. Good heads mossed and rooted now 
make capital plants for growing on early in the year, when large finely 
developed plants are needed. Large pieces can with certainty, and 
without losing a single leaf, be taken off by this method, and are soon 
ready again for table and other forms of decoration. All side shoots- 
that are rooted, and are needed for table decoration or single vases, 
have the heads removed after they commence forming large bold 
foliage. It is only by constant re-rooting that good supplies of well- 
furnished plants can be kept in the best possible condition in a small 
state. 
Acalyphas. —Plants that have grown too tall may be mossed in the 
same way as advised for Crotons. Although good heads of these plants- 
root with certainty in a suitable place, large plants can be obtained 
more quickly by the mossing system. There is no difficulty in taking 
off heads fully 18 inches in length with large bold leaves from the base 
to the top. If well rooted in the moss they only need a shady position for 
a week or ten days in a close warm atmosphere. The same remark applies 
to Crotons, when both may be again gradually exposed to the sud_ 
Small well coloured pieces of these plants as well as Crotons may be 
rooted in small pots, for they will be found useful during the winter 
in association with small Ferns and Mosses. 
Panicum rar'egatmn. — Quantities of this plant should be rcoted in 
small pots, the cuttings being inserted thickly and placed into the pro¬ 
pagating frame until they are well rooted. Although these plants do 
not last long in good condition in rooms during the dark days of winter 
they are nevertheless useful for edging groups and near the margin of 
baskets that have to be filled with plants. Variegated forms of Trades- 
cantias may also be rooted in quantity in boxes as well as in small pots.. 
When in the latter insert the cuttings thickly, and repot them after they 
attain a length of 5 inches. They root quickly in any close warm 
position. 
Coleuses. —Bright coloured varieties are a’so useful in 2-inch pots p 
for this purpose good heads only need be rooted and not pinched after¬ 
wards. When they grow too tall they may be re-rooted. They strike 
freely on a shelf close to the glass in a warm house if well watered and 
shaded from the sun. Coleuses do not last long, but they are easily 
raised, and are invaluable where many small plants are needed. 
Caladiums. —Some of the earliest plants are beginning to naturally 
lose their foliage; these should be allowed to rest. Gradually 
decrease the supply of water, but do not prematurely send them to'rest 
or place them in a cold position, as under such conditions the tubers are 
liable to decay. In a temperature of 60° they will be safe. Late 
vineries where heat is still maintained are capital places for them. 
Plants of Caladium argyrites that have had a long season of rest may be 
started into growth. Remove the old tubers from amongst the old soil 
and pot them into fresh. The most suitable sizes are 3 and 5-inch pots.. 
After potting plunge them in the propagating frame and cover the 
surface with cocoa-nut fibre refuse until the plants start into growth.. 
These plants are not only useful in pots, but the foliage is invaluable for 
cutting during the winter and spring months when flowers are not too- 
plentiful. 
Selaginella Kraussiana (S. dentieulata )—A good number of 
3, 4 and 5-inch pots can be made up now. The best method is- 
to fill the pots with light soil slightly raised above the rim and dibble 
small pieces thickly over the surface. They grow quickly if kept moist 
and shaded, often succeeding as well on the floor of moist houses as 
when given more favourable positions. 
Gloxinias. —Gradually withhold water from all that are showing 
signs of going to rest. Do not ripen them too quickly. Repot 
seedlings into 4 and 5-inch pots. Those that are still small 
should be grown on a shelf where they can enjoy a little warmth. 
With care these plants may be had in flower throughout the whole- 
year. Tubers that have enjoyed a fair season of rest may be started 
again into growth. If a few are started at intervals of a month a. 
long succession of flowers will be obtained. 
