282 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 1,1891. 
And you professionals, you cannot find place for this hedge on 
your terraces, where your carpet beds must be nipped and shaved 
to keep them like a carpet, and where your Henri Jacoby, Flower 
of Spring Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, Begonias, and Lobelias must 
be kept symmetrical and within due limit; but there will be a 
jilace somewhere in your area where it may be tried profitably 
and pleasurably, therefore my advice to you, if I may presume to 
give it, is—“ Try it.”— Ignoramus. 
NOTES ON PLANTS. 
Gypsophila paniculata. 
Where cut flowers are required in abundance from plants 
which are strictly confined to the hardy garden those who do not 
possess the above miss a capital one for the purpose. The flowers 
are borne in profusion, last long in a fresh state when cut, and can be 
elegantly associated with other flowers, even Roses being improved 
by their association. It is surprising what a large bush will grow 
from only two or three shoots from the root; our plant is fully 
4 feet in diameter, and the somewhat quaint small flowers seem to 
catch the eye at once. Owing to the scarcity of growth from the 
base it is not so easily increased as some perennials. The slugs, too, 
have a great liking for the tender shoots when they start in the 
spring. Abundance of soot worked into the soil round the base of 
the plant before growth commences is the best preventive of a loss 
of shoots. No doubt in a light sandy soil it is not troubled to 
nearly the same extent in this respect as it is in a^heavy one, where 
slugs are more numerous in the spring. 
Chelone barbata. 
This is also called Pentstemon barbatus, and is a gem for the 
herbaceous border, summer flower beds, or in a nook on the 
rockery. The colour of the flowers varies from pinkish red to 
carmine, a shade which is not too plentiful even amongst hardy 
plants. What makes this all the more valuable is its natural 
habit of growth, which is upright, requiring but little space ; one 
small stake in the centre of each root gives enough support if the 
shoots are loosely tied to it singly, which is a much superior method 
to encircling the plant with one ligature in a broom-like manner. 
Two years is long enough to allow the plants to grow without 
removal, as the centre of the root becomes weak, consequently the 
flower spikes are not so strong as they should be. The best way to 
maintain a stock of plants which will provide flowers abundantly 
is to break up the oldest roots every year the first week in October ; 
every bit with a root attached will grow if dibbled into sandy soil 
in a cold frame, and left there till the following May. Then plant 
them out where they are to flower. That year they will throw up 
two or three stout spikes, but the following summer they will be 
at their best, producing stout spikes from 2 to 3 feet long. 
Campanulas. 
The three varieties of Campanula carpathica—turbinata, pallida, 
and alba—ai’e all worthy a prominent place either on the rockery or 
at the front of the herbaceous border. The growth is easily kept 
within bounds. Flowers are freely produced which require no 
support, an advantage where labour is scarce. To give the best 
effect broad masses of each should be grown together, as in that 
way they are the most effective. Plants with two or three stems do 
not convey any idea of their beauty as compared with masses of 
flowers half a yard across. By dividing the roots in the spring 
just when growth is on the move no difficulty need be experienced 
in increasing the stocky 
EcniNOPS RITRO. 
This is not the least interesting plant in the herbaceous border 
at the present time. The deep blue of the globe Thistle-like 
blooms are very conspicuous. It is a perennial, easily increased by 
dividing the roots either in autumn or spring. One strong clump 
will throw up half a dozen stout flower stems, which branch off 
into many more smaller ones, and altogether make a brave show 
at the back of the border, as it grows from 4 to 5 feet high. 
Convolvulus sepium. 
This pure white large-flowered Bindweed is a useful plant 
to grow for covering the stems or branches of deciduous trees 
where a suitable position can be found for it. We have it planted 
at the base of a large-flowered variety of Laburnum, up the stem 
of which it climbs and entwines itself among the branches to a 
height of 10 feet. This Laburnum is growing by the side of a 
waterfall among rocks, over which the Convolvulus has rambled 
until it touches the water. Many of its stems have entwined 
themselves around the smaller shrubs near, and very pretty it 
looks just now, the pure white bell-shaped flowers, 3 and 4 inches 
across, resting on a deep green base. For such a position nothing 
could have a better effect, and its growth, which is but short¬ 
lived, does not interfere with other plants about it.—S. 
CARNATIONS IN POTS. 
Carnations have long been favourite flowers, and ranked in 
popular estimation next to the Rose. The admiration for them, 
however, is annually increasing, and they are in demand over a 
longer period of the year in gardens of any pretensions. The 
cultivation of the Rose under glass has advanced considerably, 
and like provision is being made for the Carnation. We have but 
little doubt that ere long the Carnation house will form one of 
the features of most gardens. Those who have only seen the 
Carnation as it can be grown outside under good cultivation have 
but a poor conception of its beauty when grown and flowered 
under glass. We shall not attempt a comparison of the two. Those 
grown outside are certainly amongst the choicest of our outdoor 
flowers and indispensable for cutting, but they are puny by the 
side of well grown examples under glass. Only recently, when 
speaking to a friend about the extreme beauty of these flowers in 
the latter position, it was stated “ They do not yield sufficient 
material for cutting.” All of that opinion should either see them 
well grown or grow them, and their verdict would soon be changed. 
Well developed blooms of Souvenir de la Malmaison remind one 
of large French Peonies, especially the pink form, Lady Middleton. 
Then, again, those who know Mary Morris or The Governor out¬ 
side would fail to recognise the same flowers indoors ; the same 
might be said of many others. If we take the old crimson Clove, 
with its dingy and dirty petals outside, always one of its faults, it 
is a fine flower under glass, and when well grown is free from these 
faults. I am not writing from a florist’s point of view, or the old 
Clove, which is such a general favourite, might be relegated to the 
shrubbery or herbaceous border to look after itself, even if tole¬ 
rated in the garden. 
It is to be regretted that many of the finest varieties yield 
flowers that are practically scentless. This is of but little moment 
with the florist proper, but very frequently must be duly consi¬ 
dered by those who grow for private gardening establishments. 
Some, however, of these scentless varieties are so charming in 
colour and such general favourites, as, for example, Mrs. Reynolds 
Hole, that they cannot be excluded from any collection of 
plants. 
To grow Carnations well in pots under glass they should be 
layered as early as possible after flowering. This is unquestionably 
the most certain method. Varieties of Souvenir de la Malmaison 
should be well rooted now and ready for potting, either singly or 
in pairs, in 4 or 5-inch pots, according to the quantity of roots and 
the size of the plants. The pots should be clean and carefully 
drained, and the soil pressed moderately firm into them. After 
the plants are potted they may be stood outside on beds of ashes, 
and afterwards at the approach of frost removed to cold frames. 
If frame room is plentiful they will root better in frames ; when 
outside they are liable to become too wet from heavy rains. Car¬ 
nations need careful watering, but should never be allowed to 
become dry at their roots during any stage of growth. Other 
varieties should be potted as they become ready, and with the 
majority it is best to pot them in pairs ; in fact, weak growers 
may be placed three in each pot, and may have a slightly smaller 
size. 
For some time the plants give but little trouble, as they only 
need careful watering until they are well rooted. Some attention, 
however, is needed in not allowing them to become root-bound 
before they are transferred into 7 to 9-inch pots. The last 
is large enough for a pair of the strongest growers, while the 
smaller size will suit those of weaker growth. The plants should 
be well rooted before they are potted, for over-potting is as 
great an evil as allowing them to remain too long in their first 
size. The drainage from the base must be carefully removed 
without injuring the roots. For the final shift the pots can 
be more liberally drained, and the surface of the ball must not 
be covered more than a quarter of an inch deep with the fresh 
compost. The plants can be returned to frames that are light and 
airy. From the time they are. first potted liberal ventilation is 
required to prevent weak growth. A shady position or a close 
confined atmosphere will soon ruin the Carnation. The plants to 
commence with should be dwarf and sturdy, and kept in that 
condition afterwards until they are layered for the following 
year. Cold frames are necessary when the house in which they 
are to be flowered is occupied with earlier varieties of the Miss 
Jolliffe type, which is one of the best, but these need rooting in 
