October l, 1391. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
293 
sight. There is also a house of Alicante of the same dimensions that 
Mr. Iunes speaks of filling with Gros Colman. A new house erected 
last year, 100 feet by 21 feet, is planted with 1000 Tomatoes in seven 
rows 2 feet apart trained to wires, producing an enormous crop of 
splendid smooth fruits, with Gros Colman planted for permanent Vines. 
When Mr. Innes has covered the land with glass adjoining his charming 
residence, as he intends to do, he will have a place worthy of his 
efforts.—G. B. 
HYPERICUM MOSERIANUM. 
We have had occasion from time to time to note some fine additions 
to the lists of Hypericums, but these have been either newly introduced 
species, or improved varieties of older forms. In Hypericum Moserianum 
we have one of a very different character, and which is especially in¬ 
teresting from the fact that it is of hybrid origin. It was described 
about two years ago in the “ Revue Horticole,” and is stated the plant 
was raised by M. Moser of Versailles from a cross between H. patulum 
and the well known H. calycinum, the former being the seed parent. 
FIG. 57.— HYPERICUM MOSERIANUM, 
We also learn that the reverse cross -was made with the same result, the 
product in both cases presenting a notable combination of the characters 
distinguishing the parents. 
The hybrid has large golden yellow flowers, depicted of their natural 
•size in the engraving (fig. 57), and the plant being of dwarf, compact, 
yet robust habi f , it is capitally adapted for beds. In this way it has 
been employed at Kew with excellent results, and the flowers are 
produced over a period of several weeks during late summer—a great 
recommendation. A first-class certificate was awarded for a plant 
shown at the Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting on August 25th 
this year. 
WORK.fmitheWEEK.. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced Houses .—Vines that are to be forced to 
furnish ripe Grapes in March or early April should be started by the 
middle of November. It is not advisable to start permanently planted 
Vines so early where there is convenience for growing some in pots, as 
very early forcing is a great strain on the energies of the Vines through 
their having to make their growth at the dullest period of the year and 
to rest at the hottest, while there is danger that the foliage may collapse 
from attacks of red spider or ripen too early through lack of suffi¬ 
cient root moisture and aliment. This may cause the buds that are 
intended to furnish the succeeding year’s crop of Grapes to start into 
growth at the time the Vines should be resting. It can only be pre¬ 
vented by retaining some lateral growths as an outlet for any sap which 
the roots absorb, and will do no harm provided they are not allowed to 
interfere with the free access of light and air to the principal leaves. 
These laterals should be removed gradually and continually from late 
August until early September, so as to admit of the Vines being pruned 
by or soon after the middle of September, and they will not bleed, nor 
will the buds be started into growth, the house being kept cool and dry. 
If not already pruned, the Vines intended for starting at the time 
named must be attended to at once, also those to be started in December 
should be pruned as soon as the foliage commences to fall, so as to give 
the Vines a few weeks rest. Outside borders, which are a great mistake 
where early forcing is practised, should be protected from autumn rains 
by covering them before the ground is chilled with continued wet and 
cold. A good covering of dry leaves with a little litter to prevent the 
leaves blowing about is an effective protection, and if tarpaulin is 
employed over all to throw off heavy rains and snow, nothing further 
need be done to outside borders, and they need not be covered until 
they have been well moistened by the autumn rains, yet before they 
become soddened and much reduced in temperature. Where, however, 
fermenting materials are available they are a great aid in forcing opera¬ 
tions, and especially so for placing inside the house to generate and 
maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere without recourse to so much 
fire heat or sprinklings from the syringe. This we advise, and the aban¬ 
donment of outside borders in early forcing, for covering outside borders is 
not economical, and the borders are too much deprived of atmospheric 
influences to assimilate plant food in proper quantity and essential 
form. The materials need not be used until the house is closed, but 
they will need to be thrown into a heap a week or ten days previously, 
turned and moistened if necessary. Three parts of Oak or Beech leaves 
to one part of stable litter will give a more suitable warmth, and the 
ammonia generated and volatilised will not be so great as from all dung. 
If there are plants in the house the fermenting materials must be well 
sweetened, or the foliage may be seriously injured by the vapour given 
out. Therefore mix them well together when thrown into the heap, 
damping them if dry, turning when getting warm, again damping if 
necessary, and when well warmed through they are fit for placing in 
the house. 
Early Forced Vines in Pots .—This is the most eligible method of 
securing a supply of thin-skinned fresh ripe Grapes early in spring, which 
are a necessity in some establishments. We have tried many varieties 
and have not found any to surpass White Frontignan, Foster’s Seedling, 
Black Hamburgh, and Madresfield Court. The great evil in forcing 
pot Vines is overcropping, the berries not attaining the size and perfec¬ 
tion of colour and finish so essential to their high appreciation. Where 
bottom heat can be given to start them they will mark their apprecia¬ 
tion by breaking freely. It is well to stand the pots on pedestals formed 
of loose bricks so that the rims are slightly higher than the pit edge, 
and so that the pots will be in the centre of the bed, which should 
be 3 to 4 feet wide and 3 feet deep. Leaves being placed in to fill 
the pit a gentle warmth will be afforded the Vines, and the roots 
will pass from the pots into the leaves, deriving support beneficial 
to the growth of the Vines, swelling and perfecting the Grapes. 
The temperature at the roots ought not to exceed 75°, and it is 
better to commence with it at 65°, and increase the warmth as 
the growth advances. In the atmosphere a temperature of 50° to 55° is 
ample until the bud3 begin to swell, then gradually increase it to 
60° or 65° when they are breaking, allowing an advance from sun heat 
of 10° to 15°. The canes should be depressed to a horizontal position to 
secure their breaking regularly. Damp the canes morning and after¬ 
noon. To have ripe Grapes in March the Vines should not be started 
later than the early part of November. 
Midseason Houses. — Black Hamburgh and other descriptions of thin- 
skinned black Grapes have the colour taken out of them by hanging, 
and can only be lessened by keeping a good spread of foliage or drawing 
a double thickness of herring nets over the roof lights. The latter is 
the preferable plan, as lateral growths interfere with light to the 
principal leaves and the free access of air so desirable for maturing 
the wood. Those from which the Grapes have been cut may have the 
growths cut back to a few joints above the buds, first curtailing the 
latera's, and then cutting back the main growths. This insures the buds 
