834 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 15 , 1891 . 
proved that not only good Grapes could be grown, such as Mrs. Pince, 
with rods carrying sixteen bunches averaging 3 lbs., and other good 
varieties. A first-rate lot of plants grown under the Vines speak for them¬ 
selves, as Mr. Geo. Harvey has taken leading honours at Bakewell with 
them. Clerodendrons, Allamandas, well flowered, are samples, choice 
Ferns, very fine specimens of Double Zonals having immense trusses. 
The Vines above are not crowded, and they are kept well under. A fine 
crop of Tomatoes covers the back walls, one section devoted to green¬ 
house plants, with Peaches on the back wall, had a specimen of Rose 
Marechal Niel planted in April, with rods 20 feet long ; an Orange, 
carrying fifty ripe fruits, very fine ; also quantities in other stages ; 
Lilium lancifolium, with 150 flowers ; Vallotas in 5-inch pots, with nine 
spikes, five flowers to the spike; und remarkably dwarf good Chrys¬ 
anthemums, well budded, occupied some of the walks, but unfortunately 
suffered from recent winds. 
Plums and Pears on the walls were good. British Queen Strawberry 
has a home here, and succeeds remarkably. Mr. Harvey keeps up yearly 
plantations. The flower garden has a stock of good old plants. Fine 
seedling Carnations, and a large bed of various Poppies, intermingled 
with Chrysanthemum segetum, 8 yards by 30 yards, had a fine effect. 
A conservatory in the flower garden was also very gay with Chrys¬ 
anthemum Madame Desgranges, excellently grown. From this you 
approach the house, a selection of hardy flowers bordering the walk. 
A good plant house in partitions for growing room plants had a choice 
collection, very healthy and clean, and there is a number of frames 
well stocked. One of the most essential accessories just added is a 
cemented tank, with pump for draining the stables, &c., completing a 
good garden, and well managed under Mr. Harvey’s care.— George 
Bolas. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Renovating Vine Borders. —Though Vines thrive for an 
almost indefinite period in a soil suited to their requirements and where 
they have a good extent of rooting area, as may be seen at Hampton 
Court; Cumberland Lodge, Windsor; Manresa House, Roebampton, and 
other places, all natural soils are not suited to the growth of Grapes, 
and borders have to be made, and these in time renovated or renewed as 
the soil becomes effete. 
There is nothing equal to turfy loam as an encouragcr of Vine roots 
except leaf soil, the loam having rich stores of nitrogenous elements, and 
the leaf soil replete with potassic substances and humus. Turf, however, 
may and often does settle into a c’ose mass unfavourable, through lack 
of disintegrated mineral matter, to keep it open as a rooting area. 
Then turf, which, by containing particles of sand, limestone, and other 
rocks would keep porous, is often converted into a close soapy mass by a 
too liberal admixture of manure and vegetable refuse ; but the most 
frequent need of renewing Vine borders is occasioned by heavy mulch¬ 
ings of stable manure and immoderate applications of liquid manures, 
particularly of that class which leave a considerable deposit. These 
deposits fill the interstices of the soil, and by so doing exclude the 
oxidising influences of the atmosphere, and the soil becomes sodden and 
sour. This is well known to experienced growers, and instead of soaking 
the borders with liquid manure, as in watering, they bring the soil into 
a healthfully moist condition with water, and then apply the liquid 
manure, by which process the thicker particles of matter in the liquid 
are kept at the surface and the interstices of the soil are not soon 
choked. When thick liquid is poured on parched and cracked borders 
the soil slowly but surely becomes choked -with the settlings of the 
liquid manure. Soil must have air—atmosphere essentials for the con¬ 
version of its constituents into available plant food. This is the art of 
applying liquid manures which contain sedimentary matter, and their 
abuse is one of the most frequent reasons why the surface soil has to be 
so often removed from the border and fresh loam added. Want of 
proper drainage and improperly constructed borders are causes of 
unhealthy Vines and unsatisfactory crops. 
These Vines are not sturdy in growth, produce long jointed wood, 
thin flabby foliage, bunches that twist and curl instead of developing, 
and Grapes that shank. No time should be lost as soon as the leaves 
change, and whilst they are still upon the Vines, in removing the soil 
down to the roots and picking it from amongst them, so that as much 
fresh soil as possible may be placed around and over them. If the 
border is very unsatisfactory and the roots deep and few, it will be 
necessary to remove all the soil and make a new border, commencing 
with drainage which may be formed of clean rubble 9 to 12 inches thick, 
brickbats answering well, placing the roughest at the bottom and the 
smallest at the top, and over this 3 inches thickness of old mortar rubbish 
or chalk, preferably weathered— i.e., subjected to frost and'air for a year. 
The border must have 4-inch tile drains, so as to keep the drainage free 
from stagnant water. Two feet in depth of soil is ample, turfy loam 
off alluvial soil, or calcareous that grows good Clover, is most suitable, 
and preferably moderately strong, but not heavy, though that overlying 
clay is preferable to turf overlying sand. Good friable loam answers 
well, especially if rather strong and interspersed with flints, such as 
occur on limestone formations. 
The turf should be broken up roughly, and if heavy add a sixth of 
old mortar rubbish, with a similar proportion of road scrapings ; if light 
add a fourth of clay marl, dried and pounded, incorporating all well 
together. Lift the roots carefully, keep them as much as possible from 
the drying influences of the air, shading the house, keeping it close, 
and the roots in damp mats, but perform the work with as much 
dispatch as possible. Lay the roots out evenly in the top foot of soil, 
encouraging those from the collar by laying any that proceed therefrom 
only just beneath the surface. The whole should be made firm, and 
the compost be moderately dry. Afford a good watering with tepid 
water ; mulch the surface with a little short material, preferably fresh 
stable manure with the straw shaken out. Outside borders should be 
covered with a few inches of leaves and a little litter to prevent the 
leaves blowing about. Sprinkle the Vines occasionally and admit air 
moderately for a time, then freely, and they will break well the follow¬ 
ing season. The lifting must not be done until the main leaves give 
indications of falling, but a few laterals with immature foliage will 
assist root formation. 
When the surface soil only is removed, and the soil picked out from 
amongst the roots, operations may commence earlier, for the Vines will 
have some roots undisturbed, and those lifted and supplied with fresh 
soil will push rootlets sooner and more abundantly through the foliage 
being active. If the roots are inside and outside one part may be done 
one year and the other the next without any danger of loss of crop the 
following season. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Potting Plants .—Before these lines are in print frosts will in some 
places have left a black mark on the tender occupants of beds 
and borders, and in some cases this ought to have been anticipated 
by taking irp any it is desirous should be saved for propagating 
or other purposes. If not too late, the requisite number of Coleuses, 
Alternantheras, Iresines, Mesembryanthemums, and similar plants 
should be lifted at once. Remove much of the soil from the roots, 
as this is liable to sour badly, and pot singly, using a rather light 
compost and not very large pots, those which can be packed on shelves 
being the best. Place all the heat-loving kinds in a warm house at 
once, and water carefully both now and for some time to come. 
Heliotropes do not lift readily, but the attempt should be made if 
there are none already well established under glass. Ageratums are 
even more difficult to recover, and with such excellent strains available 
it is not advisable to pot Lobelias, the required number of plants 
being the most simply raised from seed sown now or early next 
February. Tuberous Begonias lift readily enough, but fail to flower 
directly dry frosty weather is experienced, and these therefore may well 
be stored thickly in boxes, only a little soil being moved with the balls. 
There is no good reason why they should not be left where they are till 
frosts cut down the tops. Keep them, when lifted, in a cool dry place, 
giving additional protection in frosty weather. Several of the fibrous- 
rooted Begonias, including Carrierei and semperflorens, make excellent 
bedding plants, and these, if potted before frosts blacken them, and 
placed in a warm light greenhouse, will flower freely throughout the 
winter. Marguerites pot readily, and large plants will be found 
serviceable for conservatory and house decoration. The same remarks 
apply to Abutilons generally, and the attempt should also be made to 
lift late flowering Gladioli and Asters. Some of the Dahlias are now at 
their best, and would be useful in conservatories till Chrysanthemums 
are more plentiful. They lift fairly well out of moderately light 
soils. Chrysanthemums move readily, even if in full flower, but care 
should be taken not to unduly reduce the size of the balls. At the 
same time do not try to move large balls of soil with the roots, or great 
lumps of it may break away, carrying the roots with it. The safest 
plan is to pot them on the groirnd where growing. A slightly heated 
greenhouse is the best position for the plants. Keep them well supplied 
with water, syringe frequently on clear days, and afford shade 
from bright sunshine. A portion of the plants might well be moved to 
the foot of sunny walls where they can be readily protected with mats. 
Zonal Pelargoniums will stand a little frost, but are of little value 
now in the flower garden ; therefore fork all up that are to be saved, 
taking particular care of the bronze, silver, and tricolor sections. 
Lightly reduce the length of roots, and pick off all the old leaves prior 
to packing the plants thickly and firmly in boxes or pots of loamy soil. 
Keep them on the dry side throughout the winter, and frost being kept 
out of the houses abundance of good cuttings ought to be available next 
spring. 
Bulls for Spring Flowering .—Fresh stocks of Hyacinths, Tulips 
Narcissi, and Scillas have always to be bought, the old bulbs or those 
that spring from them rarely flowering at all well the second year. Nor 
do Crocuses and Snowdrops move well, the best effect in the two latter 
instances being obtained with the aid of undisturbed roots. All, how¬ 
ever, can be bought at much cheaper rates than is the case with bulbs to 
flower in pots. Order and plant early ; the Hyacinths and Narcissi 
9 inches apart each way, and 4 inches deep ; and Tulips 6 inches apart, 
and also 4 inches deep. Double or triple lines of Scillas, Crocuses, and 
Snowdrops are needed to make anything like a good show, and the bulbs 
of these may be from 3 inches to 4 inches apart each way, and 3 inches 
deep. If preferred the bulbs generally might be interspersed among 
the dwarf shrubs, Conifers, and flowering plants, but if they have beds 
to themselves these may w T ell be surfaced over with short branches of 
Aucuba, Hollies, Ivies, Box, and such like, arranged in masses and lines. 
