33 G 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 15, 1891. 
best you have sent. Ruby was crushed. Yellow King and Sutton’s 
Golden Nugget are extremely attractive, and we know them to be good 
in quality. We prefer Conference to Challenger, and like Ham Green 
Favourite better than either. We know you had finer fruits some time 
ago or they would not have won prizes in Btrong competition. 
Vine Laterals ( Subscriber ). — We presume your house is not 
heated, or the Grapes would not be so late and the laterals so unripe. 
You may remove all growths from above the bunches except one leaf 
on the main lateral, also the whole of the growths below the bunches 
except the main leaves. This will admit all the sun there may be to the 
foliage retained, and facilitate the maturation of the wood. If the sub¬ 
laterals are numerous it will be prudent to half shorten them at once, 
and two or three days afterwards remove the remainder. Early Gladioli 
of the ramosus section may be planted now, corms of the gandavensis 
varieties in spring. 
Peat Moss Litter as Manure («/. 77.).—After passing through 
stables this will be excellent for incorporating with your heavy clay, 
because of the humus it will impart, as well as the manurial elements 
it will contain. We should much prefer it to “ heavy cow manure ” for 
strong land, but should not apply it in a very wet state. It is one of 
the best mediums for mulching fruit trees, Vine borders, and anything 
else. Dried and pulverised it will be serviceable for mixing with heavy 
loam for potting. When suitably dried it is good for use in Mushroom 
beds, and has produced excellent crops, as you will find on consulting 
Wright’s “ Mushrooms for the Million.” 
Name of Caterpillar (S. 77. 77.).—It is the species known popu¬ 
larly as the peppered moth (Amphydasis betularia). The caterpillars 
feed in gardens or near them on the Birch, Lime, Robinia, and other 
trees or shrubs, and occasionally the moth deposits an egg on the Rose. 
Most years they have entered the pupal state by the middle of September, 
but this is a late season. It is not an abundant insect, but is found in 
many places, We would have returned it, as you requested, had not the 
caterpillar in its journey sustained injury which caused its death. The 
moth emerges from its chrysalis in May usually ; there is only a single 
brood yearly. The paper box was flattened in the post. 
Nectarines Quartering ( J. . C. C.). —The usual cause of Nectarines 
quartering is a deficiency of atmospheiic moisture in the early stages of 
swelling up to and including stoning. The skin thus becomes hardened, 
and when the fruit swells fcr ripening the skin does not grow corre¬ 
spondingly with the flesh, and splitting ensues, generally at the apex, 
and as swelling proceeds the crack enlarges, sometimes so deeply as to 
expose the stone. The only remedy is more moisture both at the roots 
and in the atmosphere duriag the early stages of swelling and past the 
stoning process, and less moisture as the fruits approach maturity. 
Peaches are less prone to “ quartering ” because their skins are downy, 
and on that account not so liable to induration by an arid atmosphere 
as is the smooth and more sensitive skin of Nectarines. 
Clematis Dying Suddenly (7 1 . Z).—Sometimes Clematis die off 
suddenly because their union with the rootstock upon which they are 
grafted is not complete, when the plant collapses altogether. Occasion¬ 
ally the growths die back to firm wood near the base, and is due to some 
injury to the stem, sometimes caused by slugs, at others by beetles, or 
by a fungus which destroys the tissues, the same as or allied to that 
causing the collapse of Calceolarias. Some galvanised wire acts corro¬ 
sively on plants trained to it, which can hardly be the cause of the 
plants dying off in your case, as some are not affected by it. If caused 
by the wire, painting with whitelead paint, or other colour of w’hich 
lead forms the body, is the cure. Clematises do not long remain healthy 
in soil destitute of lime. 
Mrs. Pince Grapes (Z. C .).—This Grape is upon the w-hole one 
of the most difficult to set its fruit and finish satisfactorily. The Vine 
does not show fruit freely when very closely pruned, and it does not set 
well on growths from indifferently matured wood. Artificial impregna¬ 
tion is often necessary to ensure a good set of berries. The cause of 
the small berries in your case is defective fertilisation. To grow this 
Grape well the Vines should be started in February or early March. 
By drawing a camel’s-hair brush or bunch of feathers over the bunches 
when flowering and using pollen from Black Hamburghs or other free 
setting Grapes the berries will set, and by not overcropping and allow¬ 
ing somewhat free growth in the laterals the Grapes swell well, forming 
handsome bunches, and perfecting fruit of superior quality. The white 
Grape is Trebbiano. 
Moss and Weeds on Lawn (Z. 7?.).—A mixture of two parts 
wood ashes and one part soot applied at the rate of a peck per rod 
(30J square yards), or 40 bushels per acre, has an excellent effect on 
lawns. The dressing should be applied evenly in February or as soon 
after as the weather is favourable early in the year. To destroy mess on 
badly infested lawns apply half a bushel of wood ashes per rod in 
autumn, and in spring dress with soot during moist weather at the rate 
of a peck per rod, which will encourage the grass. The above may be 
had in most places for the trouble of saving. Bonemeal is excellent as a 
top-dressing for lawns, and should be applied in autumn or early spring 
at the rate of 10 to 15 cwt. per acre, and is better adapted for light than 
heavy clay soil. Dissolved bones— i.e., superphosphate, may be applied 
at the rate of 5 cwt. per acre in autumn or early spring, but this is less 
durable in its effects than bonemeal. Both are very" useful dressings, 
encourage grasses, and proving prejudicial to weeds. Sulphate of iron, 
1 cwt. per acre, distributed evenly when the ground is moist, destroys 
moss and benefits grass. 
Tomato Leaves Shrivelling (S. S.). —The cause of Tomato leaves 
“ drying up like tinder ” may be sun acting powerfully on them a'ter a 
period of dull weather resulting in scorching, when they will become 
whitish yellow at first, tuining to brown ; or insects, such as red spider 
and white fly, abstracting their juices, causing the leaves to die 
yellow or brown, and to slowly collapse; or fungus destroying their 
tissues, when the young foliage turns black under powerful sun after a 
dull period ; but tbe older leaves develope brownish patches covered 
with a greyish powdery substance, with a depressed spot in the centre of 
a brownish colour, and the dead leaf when squeezed in the hand falls 
into “ tinder.” The plants do not bear syringing with weak softsoap 
water nearly so well as do Roses, for Tomatoes have hairy leaves, and 
the softsoap adheres to their surfaces and clogs them. If the plants are 
affected with the fungus Phytophthora infestans, they may be sprayed 
with a 2^ per cent, solution of sulphate of copper and lime—that is, 
Bordeaux mixture, or dusted with anti-blight powder. To have 
Tomatoes iipe early in April next year the plants should be raised from 
seed, or preferably cuttings now, and kept near the glass until January, 
when they should be transferred to the fruiting pots or beds. 
Skeletonising Leaves (Z. S.). —Nearly all leaves may be skeleton¬ 
ised, but some require a longer time than others to become macerated. 
For instance, the seed vessels of the Winter Cherry, Henbane, and 
Poppy require a fortnight or three weeks if the weather be hot. Leaves 
of Ficus elastica (Indiarubber Plant) and Magnolia grandiflora require 
several months; leaves of the Tulip Tree, Poplar, and Maple a fort¬ 
night ; leaves of the Holly and Ivy two or three weeks. Ferns require 
a long time, and so do the leaves of Beggars’ Broom, Butchers’ Broom, 
the Orange, Lemon, and Camellia. Great care must be taken in 
choosing the leaves, as the smallest speck spoils one. Many more should 
be placed in the water than are needed, as not more than one in twenty 
will be perfect. The time required depends on the weather. Beginners 
examine them too soon. The leaves should be put into soft w'ater in a 
sunny situation, taking care that they are covered with water. Ever¬ 
green leaves may be skeletonised at any time, but deciduous leaves not 
before the end of June or beginning of July. Seed vessels must be 
operated upon when nearly ripe. When quite ready for skeletonising 
put the leaves into boiling water to remove the offensive smell. Remove 
the scum from the water. Brush off the pulp with a rather hard brush. 
If the leaves are tender bump them gently, which removes the pulp 
without disturbing the nerves of the leaves. Pour clean water over 
them until quite clean ; put them on blotting paper to dry—a piece of 
k lass is useful to brush them on. Tender leaves should be floated in 
water and caught on a card, as are fine Seaweeds. Bleach with chloride 
of lime, and then wa9h them thoroughly with clean water, otherwise 
they become yellow T . It is better not to bleach them until required for 
setting up. Thistles and Teazels look well when bleached, and aid 
much in arranging a group. 
Names of Fruits.— Notice .— Special attention is directed to the 
following decision, the object of which is to discourage the growth of 
inferior and promote the culture of superior varieties. In consequence 
of the large number of worthless Apples and Pears sent to this office to 
be named , it has been decided to name only specimens and varieties of 
approved merit, and to reject the inferior, which are not worth sending 
or growing. The names and addresses of senders of fruit to be named 
must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether letters 
referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are not 
necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. Only six 
specimens can be named at once, and any beyond that number cannot 
be preserved. (Thomas Bradshaw ).—The Peach is probably Royal 
George, but we cannot say decidedly withorrt leaves, and knowing 
whether the flowers are large or small. Damson, Shropshire Prune. 
Apples.—1, Mtffe de Manage ; 2, Not known. (Amateur). —1, Tower of 
Glamis ; 2, Winter Hawthornden ; 3, Bess Pool; 4, Not recognisable ; 
5, Dumelow’s Seedling, a splendid specimen ; 6, M&re de Manage, 
(II. 77. I ).).—Louise Bonne of Jersey. (Nemo). —J, Emperor Alex¬ 
ander ; 2, Herefordshire Costard ; 5, Emperor Alexander. The labels 
were off the other specimens. The Clematis is a variety of lanuginosa. 
(IF. It. B.). —1, Reinette de Canada ; 2, Cox’s Pomona ; 3 and 4, Blenheim 
Pippin; 6, American Mother. (Anthony Oliver).—2, Cockpit ; 3 r 
Beauty of Kent. (IF. 73. fy Son). —25, Ribston Pippin ; 22, Golden 
Knap; 16, Comte de Lamy ; 13, Duchess of Oldenburg; 18, Easter 
Beurre ; 20, Claygate Pearmain. We only name six fruits—see note 
above. (Walter Jinks). —1, Golden Winter Pearmain ; 2, Beurre 
Clairgeau ; 3, Kerry Pippin ; 4, Cox’s Orange Pippin ; 5, Herefordshire 
Pearmain ; C, Louise Bcnne of Jersey. (IF. S). —4, Winter Haw- 
thernden ; 5, Hall Door. The others are probably local. (Z. IF.).— 
I, Tyler’s Kernel ; 2, Dumelow's Seedling. (S. S.). — Fondante 
d’Automne. (Farnborough). — 1, Knight’s Monarch; 2. Worcester 
Pearmain ; 5, Beurr6 Superfin ; 6, Norfolk Beefing. (A. M. M.). —1, 
Doyenne Boussoch ; 2, Van Mons Leon Le Clerc. (B. IF).—1, Peas- 
gcod’s Nonesuch ; 2, Reinette de Canada ; 3, Golden Winter Pearmain ; 
5, Duchess of Oldenburg ; 6, Cellini. Some correspondents have with¬ 
held their names and addressee, and one has not even given a signature. 
Fruits cannot be named when our s'mple conditions are not complied 
rvith. Several fruits cannot be named because the numbers were 
pinned into the eyes, destroying the segments, one of the guides to 
identification. 
