854 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t OcroDer 22, 1? 97» 
which instead of inducing fruitfulness will reduce its strength below 
fruiting point for two or three seasons. The roots are more easily 
reached where the whole tree is lifted, but in any case all those which 
go down into the subsoil must be cut off, taking them back to the fibrous 
roots, and clean cut all wounds with a sharp knife to induce the forma¬ 
tion of fresh fibres as soon as possible. Place some fresh sweet soil over 
the roots when filling in again, as this also induces fresh fibres, and 
these will plump up the buds for next season if the operation is com¬ 
pleted soon enough before the trees rest for the winter. In laying the 
roots back again in the hole keep their points from dipping downwards, 
and distribute them as evenly as possible, both horizontally and verti¬ 
cally. As soon as the hole is filled secure the tree against rocking by the 
wind if it has been lifted entirely; the best way to ensure this is to fasten 
some old sacking, or a piece of gutta percha hose split open, around the 
stem of the tree a little more than half way up, and stretch four wires 
from this to short stumps in the ground at equal distances apart. The 
ground over the roots should then have a mulching of strawy litter to 
protect the roots in some measure from frost, and all is complete. Under 
no circumstances let any manure be incorporated with the soil for fruit 
trees that have been root-pruned or replanted. All feeding must take 
place from the surface, which will keep the soil sweet, and induce the 
roots to come nearer to the top instead of going downwards into the 
subsoil. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest Vines in Pots. —Some Grape lovers do not appre¬ 
ciate the thick-skinned varieties, and desire thin-skinned Grapes at all 
times. In that case it is preferable to take the early supply from Vines 
in pots than to start the permanently planted Vines at a very early 
period. Vines in pots produce fruit little inferior to that borne by others 
planted out, and often better than is produced by those having the 
roots in outside borders. Success in early forcing is more certain where 
there is convenience for affording bottom heat, the canes being suffi¬ 
ciently strong, thoroughly ripened, and duly rested. The materials for 
affording bottom heat—that is, tree leaves and stable litter, should be 
in course of preparation. The heat to begin with must not exceed 65° 
about the pots, augmenting it by bringing up the fermenting materials 
to the level of the pots by degrees, so as to raise the temperature to 
70° or 75° when the Vines are in leaf. We advise the puts to be stood 
on pillars of loose bricks. Let the canes be suspended over the fer¬ 
menting materials in a horizontal position to induce the buds to break 
evenly. Sprinkle the canes three times a day, and damp every part of 
the house at the same time in bright weather. In order to indues 
regularity of starting, a somewhat higher temperature is necessary at 
this period than later in the season, 50° to 55° at night, and 60° to 65° 
by day is not too high to begin with. The Vines to have fruit ripe in 
April must not be started early in November. Vines in pots not in¬ 
tended for early forcing should be placed under cover, an open shed 
with a north aspect being suitable, and the pots protected with hay or 
straw. If placed in cool houses the pots must be protected against 
frost in severe weather, for the Vines may be injured or destroyed by the 
soil becoming frozen. 
Earliest Forced Planted-out Vines. —Those for affording fruit in 
April must be started at the beginning of November. Have the 
inside border thoroughly soaked with water at a temperature of 90°, 
and in the case of weakly Vines a soaking of tepid liquid manure is 
beneficial, enriching the soil, and conducing a good break by the 
increased food supply. If the border or floor of the house is covered 
with leaves and litter in a state of fermentation, occasionally turning 
the material and adding fresh, the moisture and warmth, also the 
ammonia-charged atmosphere, are very beneficial to the Vines, and 
make a considerable difference in the fuel used. The outside border 
must have a covering of leaves, litter, or fern sloping from the house 
outwards, and be covered with shutters, tarpaulin, or thatch, so as to 
throw off the rain and snow. Fermenting material is not indispensable 
for placing on outside borders, but the warmth is a great aid in keeping 
the roots active and near the surface. Outside borders, however, are 
great mistakes for Vines that are forced early year after year. 
Vines for Starting in December .—Prepare the house for starting, 
the Vines being pruned when the leaves have fallen, as it contributes 
to early and complete rest. In pruning two buds are mostly sufficient 
to leave for affording compact bunches of Grapes. Longer pruning 
maybe practised when the Vines are wanted to give fewer and larger 
bunches, for it does not answer to allow as many large bunches on a 
Vine as of medium sized. Large bunches are, as a rule, loose, irregular 
in size of berry, and do not finish satisfactorily. Medium sized bunches 
are more regular in form and size of berry, and finish well. If the eyes at 
the base of the shoots are not plump, three eyes may be left, but this 
necessitates frequent renewal of the spurs. The Vines should be stripped 
of loose bark, in fact all that can be removed without stripping them to 
the live bark, and be washed with tepid softsoap solution—2 oz 3 . soft- 
soap to a gallon of water. This is all that is necessary where the Vines 
are free from insects, and where there has been no scale or mealy bug, 
but infestation by red spider, a solution of softsoap, 4 ozs. to the 
gallon of water, is strong enough and an effectual remedy. If, 
however these have any mealy bug or scale a dressing of insecticide 
must follow, repeating it before the Vines are started. The woodwork 
must be thoroughly cleansed, if necessary painted, and the walls lime- 
washed. Remove the surface soil down to the roots and supply fresh 
lumpy loam with a sprinkling of strained bonemeal and wood ashes 
intermixed—about a half-pint of bonemeal and a quart of dry wood 
ashes to each bushel of loam. Though a somewhat dry condition of the 
roots is desirable the border must not be allowed to become parched and 
cracked, affording water if necessary, but not saturating the soil to the 
extent of makiDg it sodden. Keep the house cool, admitting air freely 
except when frost prevails. If the house is occupied with plants 
employ fire heat only to exclude frost. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes. —A temperature of about 50° artificially is 
most suitable, losing no opportunity of admitting air when the days are 
fine, turning on the heat in the morning so as to cause a gentle warmth 
in the pipes, and so expel damp, turning off the heat at mid-day, or soon 
after, so as to allow the pipes to cool, and the temperature at night not 
to be kept above 50°, even less on cold nights ; but a slight warmth in the 
pipes will prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries and prevent 
“ spot,” inasmuch as the moisture is condensed on the glass instead of 
the Grapes. A low night temperature causes the moisture present in the 
air to be rapidly condensed on the Grapes in the early part of a fine day, 
when the heat is not turned on early and air admitted, the sun heating 
the atmosphere much quicker than the Grapes. This must not be over¬ 
looked ; and during the prevalence of dull weather it will be necessary 
to keep a gentle warmth in the pipes, the ventilators closed, yet there 
will be a circulation of air, causing the moisture to settle on the glass, 
thereby preserving the Grapes from damp. 
Vines Ripening the Wood. —Vines not yet firm in the wood, the 
foliage quite green, and the wood not brown, should have the laterals 
closely pinched, bringing them down by degrees to the principal 
buds, which will have a tendency to promote rest by admitting more 
light, especially if air is admitted freely at night, the house being kept 
rather warm, but not close by day, as that would have a tendency to 
induce growth. When growth in the laterals is checked the shoots may 
be shortened to a few leaves above the pruning buds. This will assist 
the basal buds to plump and the wood to ripen, a gentle warmth being 
kept in the pipes and air freely admitted. 
Pines. —Young plants must be afforded liberal ventilation whenever 
the weather is favourable, avoiding too much moisture in the houses or 
pits, as over-damping, keeping the atmosphere constantly saturated, is 
more injurious than beneficial at this time of year. Examine the 
plants once a week for water, supplying such as require it, for dryness at 
the roots stunts the growth, and is very pernicious, a3 the plants seldom, 
if ever, make free growth afterwards. 
Fruiting plants should have a night temperature of 70°, 65° in cold, 
weather, 75° by day, rising to 85° from sun heat, losing no oppor¬ 
tunity of closing at 85°, and affording genial surroundings by 
damping available surfaces. Retain one sucker only to each plant, 
removing all others. Any suckers appearing on successional plants 
before the fruit is visible should be removed, except an increase of stock 
is urgent, when one or more may remain, but it is not a good practice, as 
the fruit is more or less prejudiced by the suckers. 
New beds are usually prepared at this time of year for the reception 
of young plants. Tan is unquestionably the best material, its heat more 
regular, and retained longer than any other. Beds formed of it should 
not be made firm but put together lightly. Oak or Beech leaves are 
good for furnishing bottom heat over a lengthened period, and a good 
substitute for tan. Collect the leaves as dry as possible. In forming 
beds they should be firmly pressed, so that they may not sink too much, 
and also to regulate the heat; preventing it becomes too violent and 
soon expended instead of affording a regular warmth over a lengthened 
period. 
Cucumbers. —Autumn fruiters are now in full bearing. The plants 
must not be overcropped, therefore cut the fruit when it attains a 
useable size, also remove ear'y all ill-shapen and surplus fruit. Go over 
the plants once a week at least, and remove all bad leaves, stopping and 
tying the growth, laying in no more wood than can have light, cutting 
away the superfluous shoots. Winter fruiters do best if allowed to advance 
well up the trellis before stopping them, removing all side growths on 
the stem up to the trellis, and then train the side shoots right and left of 
the stem, not too closely, as well developed foliage is very important, par¬ 
ticularly in winter fruiting plants. Remove all male flowers, and cut 
off tendrils as they appear. Add fresh warmed soil as often as the roots 
have fairly covered the sides of the ridges or hillocks, and if they need 
vigour use a little soot, and an occasional dusting of the bed with super¬ 
phosphate will tend to improve the substance of the whole plant. 
Maintain a temperature of 70° on mild, 65° on cold nights, 70° to 
75° by day artificially, advancing to 80° or 85° with sun heat. Admit a 
little air at the top of the house on all favourable occasions, but avoid 
admitting cold air, and never lower the temperature. It is better to 
shut off the top heat for a few houi\3 when the sun is powerful than 
ventilate it when the wind is strong or very cold, for it dries the air and 
causes a chill. The plants will not need syringing except on very fine 
days, when a light damping is beneficial, but the paths and other 
available spaces should be damped in the morning and afternoon and 
on bright warm days shortly after midday, keeping the evaporation 
troughs charged with liquid manure. Water the beds whenever they 
become rather dry, not allowing the plants to become distressed or to 
flag ; but before the foliage becomes limp afford a thorough supply of 
that element or weak warm liquid manure. The water given to the 
roots must be of the same temperature as the mean of the house, and the 
soil used for covering the roots should be had inside some time to be 
warmed before placing it over the beds. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. —The temperature in this structure should range from 60° 
to 65° at night according to external conditions. On very mild occasions 
