418 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 12, 1891. 
the Japanese, which were very fresh ; the incurved in a few cases had 
suffered a little, the date being somewhat later than usual. Groups and 
specimen plants were not largely shown, but the leading exhibits in both 
cases were uncommonly good. Fruit and vegetables were included in 
the attractions, and the hall was well filled, much taste being shown in 
the arrangement. For example, the walls behind the groups and speci¬ 
men plants were draped with dark maroon cloth, and the result was that 
the colours were seen to admirable advantage. In another matter an 
arrangement was noted that might well be imitated elsewhere. The 
Hon. Secretary, Mr. S. Mitchell, who very closely studies the interests of 
the Society, has designed a neat name card, which is supplied to all the 
exhibitors of cut blooms, and which is readily affixed to the fronts of 
the stands before each transverse row of three blooms, thus avoiding 
the damage done to the blooms, often resulting from attempts to see the 
names on labels placed on the boards next to each bloom. “ The Mitchell 
Chrysanthemum name card ” is useful, neat, and inconspicuous. 
We cannot deal with the numerous exhibits fully this week, but the 
following must be mentioned. With twenty-four incurved blooms, not 
less than eighteen varieties, Mr. G. Duncan, gardener to C. L. Lucas, 
Esq., Warnham Court, was the leading exhibitor, staging even examples 
of Empress of India (2), Miss M. A. Haggas, Mrs. Heale, Violet Tomlin 
(2), Queen of England, Venus, Lord Alcester (2), Beethoven (2), John 
Lambert (2), Princess Beatrice, Prince Alfred, Jeanne d’Arc, Princess of 
Wales, Jardin des Plantes, St. Patrick, Golden Empress of India, Lord 
Wolseley, and White Venus. Mr. Sparkes, gardener to C. Allcard, Esq., 
Wimblehurst, Horsham, and Mr. W. Wallis, gardener to T. J. Mews, Esq., 
Hartwell, Hartfield, were second and third respectively, each showing 
well. Mr. G. Duncan was also first for twenty-four Japanese (distinct), 
exhibiting capital blooms of Stanstead White, Stanstead Surprise, Golden 
Dragon, Baronne de Prailly, Sunflower, Madame Baco, Ralph Brockle- 
bank, M. Bernard, Thunberg, Condor, J. M. Pigny, J. Delaux, A. H. Neve, 
Soleil Levant, E. Molyneux, Avalanche, Madame J. Laing, W. G. Drover, 
Val d’Andorre, H. Cannell, Etoile de Lyon, Meg Merrilies, and Marsa. 
Mr. T. Glen, gardener to Mrs. Montefiore, Worth Park, was a close 
second, and Mr. Sparkes third. 
Mr. G. Goldsmith, gardener to Sir E. J. Loder, had the best twelve 
incurved, followed by Messrs. Pullen and White. Mr. Edwards took 
the lead with twelve Japanese in an excellent class. Mr. Glen and Mr. 
Duncan also shared the honours in several other classes. 
Mr. F. Edwards, gardener to A. Agate, Esq., Horsham, exhibited the 
best group, a most tasteful arrrangement of well-grown plants; and 
Mr. Sparkes was first with four specimen plants and a single specimen 
—handsome contributions. 
The chief fruit exhibitors were Messrs. Duncan, Glen, White, and 
Kemp, who staged Grapes, Apples, and Pears in the various classes. 
Messrs. Sutton & Sons’ prizes for vegetables also brought several fine 
collections. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Planting. —Proceed with this as fast as possible now, before winter 
weather commences. Fruit trees are full of leaf yet, but no harm can 
possibly ensue from moving them at once, and if replanted without 
delay they will make fresh roots and thus get a much stronger start in 
the spring. If new orchards are in contemplation they should have 
attention first, but do not plant in any low situation, as such places are 
often liable to a superabundance of water, which induces canker and all 
kinds of disease, and they are sure to feel the effects of spring frosts 
much more than higher ground would do. A gentle slope to the south 
or south-west is the best position if it can be had. Extensive operations 
in the preparation of the soil are not necessary in the majority of cases. 
Manure is not required when planting fruit trees, no matter how poor 
the soil is, as a tree when freshly planted has all its roots severed or 
otherwise injured, and is not in a position to appropriate rich food ; its 
first business is to make fresh roots, and then after a time it is ready for 
feeding according to circumstances. 
Draining will occasionally be necessary, and should always be com¬ 
pleted as soon as the trees are planted if not previously done. The drains 
should run right up the centre of the spaces between the rows, or they 
will soon be choked by the roots and be worthless. Anyone can easily 
tell whether draining is necessary by forming a hole 18 inches deep in 
wet weather, loosening the bottom slightly with a fork, and leaving it 
for a few hours. Examine it again after there has been at least four 
hours’ fine weather ; if water is standing in the bottom of the hole it is 
not a suitable site for planting fruit trees, and must either be improved 
or abandoned. Shelter should also be secured from the north and north¬ 
east if possible ; if none exists plant Larch and Spruce Firs and a few 
English Elms or Poplars among them, but these must not be placed too 
near the fruit trees, or the forest trees will have the lion’s share of the 
nourishment. Apples are not very particular as to what kind of soil 
they have if the above conditions are secured, but it is not well to 
plant them in very light or chalky soils, as the fruit in these places 
will be very small. Pears will not succeed in such soils either ; a good 
supply of moisture at all times is absolutely essential to their well-being, 
and a deep alluvial loam suits them best of all. For planting in com¬ 
paratively dry positions this fruit should always be worked on the Pear 
stock, and for places where moisture is more abundant the Quince stock 
is the best for most varieties, especially for dwarf trees and pyramids. 
In all places much exposed to the wind it is best to grow pyramid or 
bush-shaped trees instead of standards, as the fruit on these dwarfer 
trees is more secure if a gale of wind comes. 
Plums and Cherries will give good returns in certain places where 
Apples and Pears would be of no use whatever ; these fruits must have 
a certain amount of limestone or chalk in the soil, or they fail to stone 
when the time comes. Plums are not so particular as Cherries in this 
respect, and will succeed in sandy soils where Cherries are often of no use 
whatever. When planting Cherries it is also advisable to consider 
whether they can be protected from birds, as in some parts of the 
country it is quite impossible to get a crop from them owing to the 
ravages of starlings and jackdaws. 
In planting fruit trees let the holes be dug at least a little wider 
than the spread of the roots, so that all may be laid out evenly all round ; 
do not plant deeper than the trees have been growing previously. The 
surface line will be plainly marked on each stem. Loosen the bottom of 
each hole before putting the tree in position, scatter a little sweet 
surface soil over the roots in preference to that which has been dug out 
of the hole ; cut off all the ends of the roots smoothly before putting in 
the tree. Remove all those that strike straight downwards, also all 
suckers. If the soil is wet do not tread it into the hole, but place it in 
as firmly as possible with the spade. All newly planted trees should 
be mulched at once with some short straw, half-decayed leaves, chopped 
hop bines, or some similar material to keep out the frost and encourage- 
root growth as much as possible. Rich manure is not required, and 
is mostly wasted if used for this purpose at such times, but that fresh 
from stables where straw is used for bedding will do capitally. Stake 
all trees as soon as planted, do not give them a chance to rock about 
by the wind, churning the soil and straining their roots. Place a piece 
of old sacking, or gutta percha hose split open, around the stems before 
tying any strings on, to prevent injury to the bark. If any trees 
should get their roots frozen place them in a cool shed or cellar 
until a thaw takes place. Never plant when it is freezing or when, 
snow is on the ground, and never let any roots get dry from any 
cause when removing and replanting trees. 
Varieties to Plant. —In selecting these much depends on soil 
and situation and the purpose for which they are required. If for 
market they must be either early or late varieties, large, of good 
colour, good croppers, and good packers. For private use the aim 
should be first of all to have a continuous supply, and next to get good 
flavoured varieties, colour and size being minor considerations. The 
locality often makes much difference, especially with Apples and 
Pears. A kind that does well in one part will not succeed in another,, 
and the best way is to notice what does well in the neighbourhood, 
or to consult some reliable authority. This answers far better than- 
going to exhibitions and taking the names of the finest looking fruit, 
which is apt to be very misleading. 
The following are some of the most useful and reliable varieties :— 
Apples for kitchen use : Lord Suffield, for warm soils only (if soil is 
cold plant Keswick Codlin instead) ; Lord Grosvenor, Ecklinville,. 
Manks Codlin, Golden Noble, Cox’s Pomona, Warner’s King, Lane’s 
Prince Albert, Stirling Castle, Winter Hawthornden, Blenheim Pippin, 
Northern Greening, Wellington, Bramley’s Seedling, Alfriston. Apples 
for dessert use : Mr. Gladstone, Williams’ Favourite, Duchess of 
Gloucester, Worcester Pearmain, Wyken Pippin, Cox’s Orange Pippin,. 
Herefordshire Pearmain, Golden Knob, Duke of Devonshire, Barnack 
Beauty. 
Plums: Early Rivers,Early Orleans, The Czar, Victoria, Grand Duke, 
Pershore, Oullins Golden, Kirke’s, Jefferson, Reine Claude de Bavay, 
Purple Gage, Coe’s Golden Drop. The last six require a wall in cold 
districts. 
Pears : Beacon, Beurre Giffard, Williams’ Bon Chretien, *Beurr6 
d’Amanlis, *Madame Treyve, Fondante d’Automne, Emile d’Heyst, 
Durondeau (for warm climates only), Louise Bonne of Jersey, *Do;yennfr 
du Comice, Marie Louise, *Pitmaston Duchess, Passe Colmar, Winter 
Nelis, Glou Mor<jeau, Bergamotte Esperen, Ne Plus Meuris, Easter 
Beurre. Those marked (*) are the hardiest varieties, and do best as 
standards, and for the latter purpose may also be added Beurrb de 
Capiaumont, Beurrfi Clairgeau (not rich dessert varieties), Beurr6 
Diel, and Hessle. Cherries : Black—Early Rivers (rather tender),. 
Black Tartarian, and Black Eagle; white—Elton, Governor Wood,. 
Bigarreau Napoleon, Morello, Kentish, Flemish, and Old Morello. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Forced Vines in Pots. —Stout, well-ripened canes„ 
with plump buds, and given a short rest, only answer for early forcing. 
The Vines require a light, airy, efficiently heated structure, which may 
be a lean-to facing south, or a span-roof with the ends east and west. 
A lean-to of 6 feet width will accommodate one row of Vines in front- 
a span-roof of 10 feet breadth may have plants at each side. If the hot- 
water pipes are at the front of the lean-to and at the sides of the 
span-roof the Vines may be stood upon them, placing tiles or slates on 
the hot-water pipes, and standing the pots upon them. The tiles or 
slates become warmed and transmit the warmth to the pots, which are 
kept more or less warm at their base, and the roots are not prejudiced 
