462 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I November 6,1891 
Plants in pots, of which there was a good assortment, were all “ cut¬ 
backs ■’ trained upright, and not at all formally ; some were quite 
3 feet through, admirably grown, dwarf, and well flowered. They were 
much preferred to the old system of tying the plants down closely into 
a formal shape. Mr. Henry Warren, gardener to G. H. Lloyd, Esq., 
Sutton, was first, and Mrs. Jerome second, both lots being exceptionally 
good. In the class for twenty-four cut blooms, twelve incurved and 
twelve Japanese, Mr. J. Padbury, gardener to F. Cooke, Esq , was first ; 
Mr. Jeff, gardener to H. E. Yates, Esq., second ; and Mr. Phillips, 
gardener to the Eight Rev. Bishop Ilsley, third. The other classes for 
cut blooms were also well filled. Mr. Yates’s first prize twelve Primu’as 
were the finest ever seen at the Sutton Shows, well-grown plants of the 
Birmingham varieties. A. W. Wills, Esq., J.P., sent a collection of plants, 
including good specimens of Cypripedium Spicerianum and Oncidium 
praetextum, some excellent specimen Eucharis, a fine Anthurium crystal- 
linum, and a stand of fine Chrysanthemum blooms. Mr. T. B. Grove, 
nurseryman, also sent an excellent group of plants, filling the stage 
across the hall. 
We again find it impossible to publish the whole of the reports of 
Chrysanthemum shows which have been obligingly sent, and two or three 
which arrived late must be held over till next week. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. —Earliest Trees in Pots .—To have ripe fruit at the end of 
April or early in May the trees must be started early in December; 
therefore dress them with an insecticide, applying it with a brush to 
every part, care being taken not to rub off the immature fruits, nor 
damage the points of the shoots. The trees should be placed on loose 
brickwork pillars, so that they may not settle with the fermenting 
material, which being placed in the pit and brought up about the 
pots will afford a genial warmth, but the heat about the pots must not 
exceed 65° until the trees are fairly in growth. The top heat may be 
50° to 55° at night, and 65° by day, the trees and house being damped 
in the morning of fine days, and again early in the afternoon, but it 
must be done sufficiently early to allow of the trees to become fairly 
dry before night. Water must be given at the roots to keep the soil 
thoroughly moist and about the same temperature as that of the heat 
about the pots. Avoid a very close moist atmosphere, the moisture 
arising from the fermenting material, with an occasional damping of 
available surfaces, as paths, &c., will be sufficient on dull days. 
Pines. —Successional Plants .—Span or three-quarter span-roofed 
pits or small houses properly ventilated are the most suitable for small 
stock, which at this season often suffer irreparable injury from being 
kept too close and warm, the plants being drawn and weakly. A tem¬ 
perature of 60° at night and 65° in the daytime will keep all young 
stock gently progressing, admitting a little air at 65° at the top of the 
house leaving it on all day, but not to lower the temperature below 
that point, and when the sun raises the temperature to 75° a free 
circulation of air should be allowed. The bottom heat should be kept 
steady at 80°. Avoid anything approaching to a damp atmosphere, 
moderate humidity only is needed at this time of year. Apply water 
only when the plants become dry, and then afford a thorough supply of 
weak liquid manure. It is essential that the plants be kept well up to the 
glass and be given plenty of room. 
Suckers .—Those ready for starting now should be kept until March, 
and if there is likely to be a scarcity of suckers any recently potted may 
be retained in 5-inch pots, affording them a light position in a rather 
moist pit, with a temperature of 55° at night and a slight bottom heat, 
keeping them rather dry. Take every opportunity of collecting leaves 
whilst dry, Oak and Beech being the bestj and whenever a favourable 
opportunity offers push forward whatever may be necessary in the 
renewing or augmenting the fermenting beds, effecting this without 
giving a check to the plants. 
Cucumbers.— Winter fruiting Cucumbers are frequent failures, and 
due to a deficiency of heating surface combined with an arid atmosphere. 
Sharp weather necessitates brisk firing, which, where there is little 
piping, dries the atmosphere, causing excessive evaporation from the 
foliage, and it becomes crippled in consequence ; the fruits also are 
stunted and swell indifferently, and where the pipes are in close 
proximity to the roots the soil is dried too much, and the growth is 
consequently not healthy. Heat radiated at a high temperature is not 
good for vegetation, and when the water in the pipes has to be kept near 
boiling point failure is almost inevitable, besides it is highly wasteful of 
fuel. Admit air very carefully, yet afford a little whenever a favourable 
opportunity offers, excluding it, however, when the external air is sharp 
and cold, turning off top heat when the sun is very bright and likely to 
•ra-'se the temperature much over 80°. In bright weather damp the house 
morning and afternoon, closing early, but be careful not to wet the 
embryo fruit, for water hanging from it will cause decay. Water will 
•foe needed at the roots about twice a week, always affording it equal in 
temperature to that of the bed. Maintain a night temperature of 60 ° to 
65°, 5° less on cold nights, and 70° to 75° by day, advancing 5°, 10 °, or 
15° from sun heat, and endeavour to enclose as much sun heat as safe. 
The plants from the August sowing planted out in September have 
covered the trellis and are fruiting, but this must be allowed very mode¬ 
rately if the plants are expected to afford full supplies at a later period, 
and unless there is undue vigour in the plants they should not be 
allowed to fruit for a few weeks, especially if they are wanted to supply 
fruit plentifully at the new year and forward. Attend frequently to 
stopping and thinning, also tying the shoots, avoiding overcrowding, as 
stout foliage better endures the trying ordeal of wintry weather. 
Canker is best held in check by lessened moisture and quicklime rubbed 
well into the affected parts. Removing old useless leaves is good for the 
plants, and may keep off attacks of red spider ; but if that pest appears 
sponge the infested leaves carefully with a solution of softsoap, 2 ozs. to 
the gallon of water. 
Mildew may be kept under by dusting the infested parts with flowers 
of sulphur, or brushing the pipes with sulphur brought to the consis¬ 
tency of cream with skim milk. Bisulphide of calcium and sulphide of 
potassium, half ounce to a gallon of water, destroys mildew, but has the 
disadvantage of discolouring the paint and causing a disagreeable smell. 
Carbonate of copper, 1 oz. to 12J gallons of water, destroys mildew and 
other fungi, using it as a spray only, and keeping agitated whilst being 
applied. Aphides succumb to fumigation with tobacco, but the smoke 
must be cool and the fumigation repeated two or three times on consecu¬ 
tive evenings. 
Strawberries in Pots .—A start must be made early in next month to 
have fruit ripe early in March. La Grosse Sucree has been our stan¬ 
dard early forcing variety for many years, but John Ruskin promises 
to lead in the matter of early forcing, and it is recommended for trial. 
Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury usually shows and sets abundance of 
fruits, and these, if well thinned, attain a good size. Princess Frederick 
William has almost disappeared from cultivation, from not being satis¬ 
factory outside ; but for early forcirg it has done excellent service, 
being a capital cropper, bright in colour, and with a pleasing aroma. 
Noble and Auguste Nicaise have fine looking fruits, and brought on 
slowly may be started with the preceding varieties, assigning them 
positions on shelves in Peach houses. The others to fruit at the time 
mentioned will need forwarding in a Strawberry house. The plants to 
be introduced to the Strawberry house, vinery, or Peach house should 
have the drainage seen to, rectifying it if defective, making sure that it is 
free, removing the loose surface soil, and supplying a top-dressing of 
horse droppings rubbed through a half-inch sieve, adding a good hand¬ 
ful of steamed bonemeal to every peck, then watering it with a rose 
watering-pot, so as to bring into a moist state, and consolidate the 
material, otherwise it washes off in watering the plants. Pots may then 
be placed in position after removing the decayed leaves only, taking 
care to keep the soil mo'st, for dry soil causes the loss of roots ; therefore 
rap the pots, and if any ring dry—a practised hand readily detecting by 
the sound which plant s are needing water—afford a thorough supply. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Seakale. —This again is in great demand curing December and 
throughout the rest of the winter and spring months. Strong young 
roots ought always to be bought in, or, better still, prepared for lifting, 
the preference in all cases being given to the improved variety known as 
the Lily White, this having no purple tips, being also the most mildly 
flavoured. Mushroom houses are of the greatest service in forwarding 
and blanching Seakale ; but at this early date progress is slow, high 
temperatures not being maintained, as these are most injurious to the 
Mushroom beds. They ought, therefore, to be depended upon for produc¬ 
ing successional crops, only one or more scores of roots, according to the 
resources or demands of the place, being bedded in thickly in rich soil 
and kept moist, warm, and dark. In order to have Seakale more quickly 
lift a number of straight young roots, lightly shortening the coarsest 
thongs, and then pack them thickly in large flower pots, the crowns 
only just peeping through the surface of the soil, and which ought to te 
somewhat moist and rich that is used. Two or more of these pots may 
be set at a time either on or close up to hot-water pipes in a forcing 
house, inverting other large pots over them and closely stopping 
drainage holes and crevices with moss so as to effectually exclude the 
light. When the soil is getting somewhat dry moisten with warm 
water, or, better still, liquid manure, and thus well treated, all the 
crowns may be cut over twice, a good and early return for the trouble 
taken. Strong roots grouped for covering with pots or boxes where 
they now are and forced by means of a well-prepared hotbed of manure 
and leaves placed over them, move very slowly at this early date, but 
they usually produce extra fine and very succulent well-blanched 
growths. Such heaps of heating material, enough being got together to 
cover several pots at one time, must be watched very closely, being 
liable to get quite cold in cold windy weather, and to become dangerously 
hot in warm muggy weather. 
Rhubarb.— Mushroom houses and warm cellars are very handy for 
forcing Rhubarb, but it can be brought on more rapidly in confined 
chambers or near to hot-water pipes in forcing houses. Lift large 
clumps of early varieties, and surround these with good moist soil, the 
latter precaution being most necessary where a dry heat is kept up and 
least needed in cellars. Extra fine stalks are more surely if more slowly 
obtained by forcing the clumps where they now are. Cover with 
inverted cement or flour tubs, substituting lids for the ordinary bottoms, 
and mound up several of these at a time with heating material, taking 
away from or adding to this according to the rise and fall of the heat. 
WORK . FQI l THE WEEK.. 
