December 3, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
485 
to that from the pot trees. Assuming the soil has become dry, apply 
water in a tepid state to the roots at frequent intervals until the soil is 
thoroughly moistened. Sweetened leaves and stable litter in ridge form 
introduced into the house will produce a moist genial condition of the 
atmosphere, and induce gentle excitement, as we’l as economise fire heat. 
Start with a temperature of 50° at night, 55° by day, and 65° from sun 
heat, syringing the trees and every available surface in the morning and 
early in the afternoon, unless the weather be dull and cold, when 
morning syringing need only be practised in the morning. Ventilate 
moderately whenever the weather is mild, closing the house with sun 
heat at 65°, or if it exceed that with full ventilation close the ventilators 
when the sun heat begins to decline. 
Succession Houses .—When the foliage has fallen prune the trees. 
Shoot9 which have attained the limit of the trellis must be cut back to 
where the succeeding shoots start in order that they may occupy their 
places in the ensuing season. Cut away all elongated spurs, reserving, 
however, as there i9 room, a few of those which are short-jointed and 
fruitful. Loosen the trees from the trellis, thoroughly cleanse the wood¬ 
work with soap and water, the glass with clear water, lime wash the 
walls, adding a little sulphur, and wash the trees with soapy water with 
a brush and afterwards with some insecticide, avoiding, however, pig¬ 
ments that contain gas tar and other substances deleterious to the bark. 
Tie the trees to the trellis, leaving sufficient space in the ligitures for 
the swelling of the branches. Lightly point the border, remove the 
loose material, supply a little fresh loam with a sprinkling of bonemeal, 
and mulch with a couple of inches thickness of lumpy, partially decayed 
manure, Ventilate fully in all mild weather, only closing when frost 
prevails. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Poinsettias .—After the bracts have fully developed they continue in 
good condition for a very long time in conservatories or other structures 
where the temperature is not allowed to fall below 50°. To prepare the 
plants for this purpose they must be carefully and gradually hardened 
if developed in strong heat, or the leaves will turn yellow, and thus 
destroy the appearance of the plants. While in a lower temperature the 
atmosphere should be kept as dry as possible, and care taken not to 
overwater the plants. Water of a lower temperature than the house 
must not be given to them. For all plants of this nature it is a good 
plan to use tepid water. Euphorbias that are in bloom should be 
subjected to the same treatment. 
Calanthes .—These may be placed with advantage while in flower in 
conservatories or other houses where the temperature ranges about the 
same as advised for Poinsettias. Damp is the greatest enemy ; in a 
moist atmosphere and moderately low temperature the flowers quickly 
become spotted, while in the conservatory little or no water will be 
needed. Few plants are more effective than Calanthes when they rise 
well above other plants and the pots and pseudo-bulbs are hidden with 
Ferns or other decorative plants. 
Gloxinias .—Those that have enjoyed a good rest may have the old 
soil shaken from their tubers and started into growth in brisk heat. They 
may be laid in boxes amongst leaf mould, and when they have well 
started potted into various sizes, according to the size of the tubers. 
Begonia sempcrflorens carmima .—Plants that are not required in 
bloom for some weeks may have their points removed. This will induce 
them to branch freely from near the base, and thus form a good succes¬ 
sion to those allowed to flower now. Young plants that have been 
pinched and started two to four shoots may be placed in larger pots. 
Crotons .—Good heads on plants that have become leafless towards 
the base may be partially cut through and mossed. These in a tempera¬ 
ture of 60° to 65° will soon emit roots, and if well cared for will be in 
excellent condition for taking off early in the new year. After they are 
severed from the old plants slight bottom heat and a close frame should 
be provided for them until they commence rooting freely. Good heads 
started early in the year quickly make handsome plants. Dracaenas of 
various kinds may be subjected to the same treatment. 
Gardenias .—Young plants, well established in thumb pots, may be 
transferred into 3-inch. Keep these in stove heat and they will grow 
steadily. Cleanse established plants from scale and mealy bug. No 
time is better than the present to get these pests under proper control. 
Sponge the plants, and then give them occasional applications of petro¬ 
leum and water in a weak state. Strong stimulants and strong insecti¬ 
cides must be avoided after the flower buds are formed ; they are liable 
to check the plants, and deformed flowers are the result. Do not keep 
the plants in a low temperature or apply cold w .ter to their roots. 
Coleus .—These are useful in small pots, but the cuttings should 
be inserted singly, and distinct bright colours selected. A good dark 
form will be found most useful for dinner table decoration if the 
plants are dwarf and well furnished with large leaves at the base. For 
this purpose the top3 of shoots that have grown strongly should be 
chosen. Coleuses soon draw up too tall for a variety of purposes even 
wffien confined in small pots, and therefore some should be rooted at 
intervals of every three weeks during the winter. Although they do 
not last so long as Crotons they are distinct from those plants, and 
their highly attractive appearance during the winter renders them 
invaluable. 
Allamandas .—The earliest plants maybe pruned back and repotted 
in a compost of loam, sand and one-seventh of manure. If the pots are 
afterwards plunged where they can receive gentle bottom heat, growth 
will commence quickly. Clerodendron Balfourianum may also be started, 
but do not pot these until they have made little growth. 
-1 _ 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
i - l - i -'ur. i ■ ,. i . i. i . i . i . i - t - i ■ l -1 -1 - i - IM = 
An Explanation. 
It has come to our knowledge that the publication of a state¬ 
ment which appeared on page 442 in our issue of November 19th 
was inserted under a misapprehension, and that the information 
supplied to us that “ there was no mention of the Punic bees in 
the Record of June, 1890, nor has there been any allusion to them,, 
either editorially or by any of its correspondents,” is not in accord¬ 
ance with facts. Here are the facts :— 
On page 74 of the Bee-keepers' Record for June, 1890, a question 
is asked by Guillaume, Wigtownshire, N.B., “ What kind of bee is 
the Punic ? ” to which the editorial reply is, “ According to 
‘A Hillamshire Bee-keeper’ the Punic bee comes from North 
Africa. It is dark in colour, and from our limited experience of it 
is a good worker and a prolific sort.” 
It will be seen that “ Punic bees” are twice mentioned there,, 
and that a reply is given founded on “ experience.” Yet in the 
British Bee Journal for August 27tb, 1891, on page 381, the 
same Elitors, in reply to “Inquirer,” say, “We know nothing 
about the so-called Punic bees, and can give no information as to 
their value.” 
We were induced to publish the statement last week in 
reliance on the accuracy of the matter furnished, and with a 
desire to be just to the conductors of our contemporaries ; but 
we must a'so be just to our correspondent “ A Hallamshire Bee¬ 
keeper,” who has placed in our hands evidence which justifies us 
in making this explanation ; and, we would add, our long experi¬ 
ence has led us to regard him as an accurate correspondent. 
Bees and Sedums. 
I had not forgotten my promise to make careful observations of 
the effects of the Stonecrop3 upon bees. Unfortunately I have 
oeen baffled by the weather during the latter part of the season, 
and, like “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper,” have been unable to notice 
anything so definite as to be worthy of notice. The earlier Stone- 
crops do not seem to be much frequented by the bees, and some of 
the qthers appear to be only attractive to the humble bee, which 
does not seem to be affected in the same way as the others. I 
think the subject should be investigated over a wide area, as it is 
evident that in some districts where there are different sources of 
honey supply certain Stonecrops may not be frequented by the 
bees, while in others the contrary may be the case. This is quite 
a Clover district, and several Sedums bloom at the time when there 
is a good supply of honey from the Clover. I shall return to the 
subject shortly, but am at present very busy.— S. Arnott. 
Stands and Floors. 
I am in receipt of many letters in praise of my style of hive 
and ventilating floor, which I think, after upwards of forty years’ 
experience with it, and with its latest improvement, cannot well 
be improved upon. It is simply a square box of the same dimensions 
as one of the divisions of my storifying hive (it may be an inch 
shallower). The back portion is in two pieces, the upper being 
about 3 inches broad, having a wooden button in the centre of 
the bottom edge, the under piece about 1^ broad, which leaves 
from 1 to li inch space to admit the withdrawal of the wooden 
shutter kept in its place by a fillet all round above it, which keeps 
it close to the aforesaid button at the back and held up in the 
front by a fillet each side, lowered at the back and lh9 shutter 
when down falls flush with the bottom back rail, so that it is 
kept in place when in transit. This arrangement permits the easy 
withdrawal of the shutter for cleaning the debris, and the two- 
angled fillets permit it to be easily replaced. The feet should 
not exceed 8 inches long by 24 by 1 {. They should be cheeked 
