504 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 10, 1891. 
plant., with leaves 18 inches to 2 feet long, with short narrow dark green 
pinnae (first-class certificate). 
Cypripcdium Lecanum giganteum (F. Sander & Co ).—A variety 
remarkable for the great size of the flowers, the dorsal sepal 2\ inches 
across, with a broad white margin, dotted purple in the centre, and 
veined with green at the base. A handsome flower. 
Cymbidiumpulcherrimum (Sir Trevor LawreneeandF. Sander & Co.). 
—A species with long narrow graceful dark green leaves, and pendulous 
racemes of medium-sized flowers, the sepals and petals narrow, white, 
with a central line of dark crimson, and a small crimson-edged lip. 
Calanthe versicolor (Sir Trevor Lawrence).—A charming hybrid with 
large flowers, white, with a reddish tint at the base of the lip ; very 
free and graceful (award of merit). 
Chrysanthemum Mrs. II. Simpkins (Mr. Simpkins, gardener to R. J. 
Measures, Esq., Camberwell).—A peculiar variety with small globular 
blooms, clear lemon yellow, the narrow florets curiously forked and cut. 
It was said to have been imported from Japan in 1889 (award of 
me.it). 
Chrysanthemum E. G. Hill (J. R. Pearson & Sons).—A large deep 
yellow or bronzy Japanese, with hard substantial florets, forming a 
full bloom (award of merit). 
Vriesia cardinalis (C. Duval, Versailles).—A hybrid from V. Krameri 
and V. brachystachys with a broad triangular head, the bracts deep red 
with a wax-like shining surface. The flowers yellow. The leaves are 
plain green, and the habit is compact. 
Chrysanthemums Henry Perkins , Rivelyn , J. S. Fogg, T. Seltoood, 
Lizzie Cartledge, and E. G. Hill (R. Owen).—Awards of merit were 
granted for all these, which are described in the preceding report. 
WORKjoiithe'WEEK,. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forced House.’— Trees started 
early in December, or at an early date in previous years, swell their 
buds promptly without much incitement from artificial heat, but those 
forced for the first time are slower in starting into flower. These must 
not be hurried, and with the buds swelling and advancing for flowering 
the atmosphere must not be kept nearly so close, as it is important that 
the blossom advance steadily and have time to develop a strong flower, 
perfect in all its parts. When the atmosphere is kept close and too moist 
the flowers are drawn and weak if the temperature be high, if low little 
progress is made, and the organs are stunted and effete. Admit a little 
air constantly at the upper part of the house, and above 50° it should be 
increased correspondingly with the temperature, but not allowing a 
decline below 50° in the daytime, sufficient artificial heat being employed 
for that purpose, and with sun heat an advance may be allowed to 65°, 
closing for the day before the temperature has receded 55°. A tempera¬ 
ture of 40° to 45° is ample at night, or in mild weather 50°. When the 
flowers are advanced so that the anthers are showing cease syringing, 
but afford a moderate amount of air moisture by damping the borders, 
paths, and walls in the morning and early afternoon. Avoid a close 
moist stagnant atmosphere at any time, but especially at night with a 
high temperature. Examine the inside border, making sure that there 
is no deficiency of moisture. If necessary afford a thorough supply of 
tepid water or liquid manure. The surface soil is often deceptive, being 
kept moist by syringing, therefore supply enough to moisten the soil 
through to the drainage, for surface moistening does very little good. 
Trees often have weakly blossoms and fail to set in consequence of 
moistnre being given to the tops of the trees instead of to their roots. 
If there is a superabundance of flower buds remove those on the under 
side of the trellis by drawing the hand the reverse way of the growth. 
This will materially assist the swelling of the remaining buds. If there 
be any trace of aphides fumigate the house on two or three consecutive 
evenings before the flowers are much advanced in colour, always before 
the petals unfold, and the atmosphere must be dry, or the moisture will 
be condensed on the cooler surfaces of the flowers, and they will be 
discoloured and injured by the tobacco smoke. 
Second Forced House. —If the trees are very early varieties, as 
Alexander, Waterloo, and Early Rivers, with Advance Nectarine, fruit 
may be had in late April or early May by starting at the new year, but 
if the trees are such as Hale’s Early, Stirling Castle, or Royal George 
Peaches, with Lord Napier Nectarine, the fruit will not ripen until 
May is well advanced or early in June. This must be taken into con¬ 
sideration by growers. In either case the house must be closed at once, 
fire heat only being used to exclude frost, the trees being sprinkled 
occasionally, or on fine days in the morning and afternoon, allowing 
time for them to become fairly dry before night. Keeping the trees 
constantly dripping with moisture, especially at night, enfeebles the 
blossoms, and is provocative of wood bud rather than blossom bud 
development. Do not allow the temperature to exceed 50° in the day¬ 
time without full ventilation. Supply water or liquid manure to inside 
borders, and protect outside with a little litter or dry leaves. Spare 
lights are an advantage in throwing off rain and snow. 
Succession Houses. —Where the roof lights are moveable it is much 
the best plan to remove them, and expose the trees to the elements for 
the winter, the wood being thoroughly ripe. This is inimical to many 
insects, and the trees are insured rest and thorough moistening of the 
border. Even the latest and unheated houses are best treated in that 
way, often having the effect of causing trees to retain their buds which 
cast them under fixed roofs, and the blossoms are generally finer than 
on trees that are kept constantly evaporating from the young wood 
through the time they are at rest under fixed roofs, nr when they are 
subjected to alternating rests and excitements where plants are grown 
in the house. The fogs and damp of winter, with the drenching rains 
and snow, suit Peaches in well drained soil, the trees being invigorated and 
the soil enriched. If the houses have fixed roof lights, ventilate to the 
fullest extent in all but very severe weather. Proceed with the pruning, 
bringing matters in respect of cleansing the house and trees to as speedy 
a conclusion as possible. 
Pines. — Young Stock. —Growing plants are liable to become drawn 
and weakly at this time of year by keeping them too close, moist, and 
warm, the damage often being irreparable, and not unfrequently arises 
from improper structures being employed. Well ventilated pits or small 
houses properly heated are most suitable for young Pine plants, as they 
can be kept near to the glass, and should be given plenty of room. 
Maintain a night temperature of 55° to 60°, which, with 65° in the 
daytime, will keep all young stock gently growing, admitting a little air 
at the top of the house at 65°, leaving it on all day, but do not let the 
temperature fall below that point, and when the temperature advances 
to 75° from sun heat a free circulation of air must be allowed. The 
bottom heat may be kept steady at 80°. Avoid a damp atmosphere, an 
occasional damping of available surfaces will suffice. Water only when 
the plants become dry, then afford a thorough supply of weak liquid 
manure. 
Plants to Ripen Fruit in May and June. —This is a very important 
time to have Pine Apples ripe, as fresh ripe fruit is not over-plentiful, 
and they are a great ornament at dessert, far transcending imported fruit 
in appearance, and are juicier and more richly flavoured, besides having 
a much more pleasant aroma. Where a supply is required at the time 
named, and plants are not showing fruit, it will be desirable to select 
from those started in March last, which have completed growth, and 
are now in a state of rest, such as show a stout base—the best indica¬ 
tion of starting into fruit when subjected to a higher temperature 
both at the roots and in the atmosphere. The plants are best placed 
in a structure to themselves. Where this cannot be afforded they 
must have a light position in the house where the fruiters are swelling. 
Maintain a night temperature of 65° in the fruiting department, 
5° less in the morning of cold nights, and 70° to 75° by day, but 
in very severe weather a few degrees lower is preferable to extra sharp 
firing. 
Cucumbers. —The weather has been wet and cold, and the growth 
suffers more than when there have been some bright intervals, light 
being very important in all forcing operations, especially in winter, 
therefore the glass should be kept as clean as possible both inside and 
out. Use warm sweet soil and not very wet for earthing over the roots 
as they show at the sides of the ridges or hillocks. A few sweetened 
horse droppings spread on the surface will attract the roots and 
afford nutriment to them when watered. This is preferable to liquid 
manure, unless the plants are growing in limited borders, boxes, or 
pots, then copious supplies will be necessary. Always apply it weak 
and tepid, and not too often. Sufficient moisture will be secured by 
damping available surfaces other than the plants in the morning and in 
the afternoon of fine days, but avoid excessive moisture, and do not 
supply water to the roots till the soil is becoming dry, then afford a 
soaking. Look over the plants at least once a week for stopping, re¬ 
moving bad leaves, thinning as required, but stopping and thinning will 
not be much needed, yet it must not be neglected, as crowding is one of 
the greatest of evils in the growth of winter Cucumbers. Overcropping 
is a still greater malpractice, and allowing the fruits to needlessly hang 
after they attain a size fit for cutting serves only to weaken the plants 
and prevent other and younger fruit swelling ; but when large enough, 
the fruits keeping several days if the heels are inserted in saucers of 
water in a cool place but safe from frost. Ill-shaped and superfluous 
fruit should be removed as they appear, and tendrils and staminate 
blossoms answer no useful purpose, therefore remove them, but some¬ 
times it is necessary to fertilise the pistillate flowers to make sure of the 
fruits swelling, and, though this may cause a “ knobby ” fruit, it is 
better than none at all. Plants from old seed and those enfeebled by 
attacks of eelworms sometimes fail to swell unfertilised fruits, but 
fertilisation is seldom necessary for healthy plants raised from fresh 
seeds. 
Mildew is sometimes troublesome. It may be combated by dusting 
the affected parts with flowers of sulphur, and the atmosphere should 
be kept drier. A light brushing over the pipes with a cream of sulphur 
and skim milk is useful against mildew, also red spider. This pest 
appears after a spell of sharp firing, and spreads with amazing rapidity. 
Sponging the first discoloured patches on the leaves with a solution of 
softsoap, 2 ozs. to a gallon of water, is the surest, and, all things con¬ 
sidered, the safest remedy. Thrips are best destroyed by similar means, 
or fumigation with tobacco. Tobacco powder dusted on green and black 
aphides destroys them, and fumigation on two or three consecutive 
evenings moderately eradicates these pests. The foliage at this time 
of year is tender, therefore care must be exercised in fumigation, not 
giving an overdose. 
