December 10, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
505 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Preparing for Frosts. —A change from mild wet weather to 
sharp frosts and colder days and nights may take place any time now, 
and unless a few precautions are taken much harm may be done. Globe 
Artichokes are not perfectly hardy, and will not survive extra severe 
frosts unless the clumps are protected by either strawy litter, bracken 
or ashes. Whichever material is used, it ought to be well mounded up to 
the plants, not sufficiently so to smother them, but about half the length 
of the strongest suckers may be buried. Thus treated, the severest 
frosts will not permanently cripple Globe Artichokes, and a row or 
breadth of plants usually pay well for being taken good care of. 
Jerusalem Artichokes are rarely if ever injured by frosts, but if the 
tubers are wanted regularly or in all weathers, a portion of the crop 
ought either to be lifted and stored in sand or fine soil, or a breadth of 
ground should be covered with a good thickness of strawy litter, as this 
admits of the Artichokes being dug during the prevalence of severe 
frost. 
Parsnips keep best where grown, and if the ground about these is 
also heavily mulched there will be no difficulty in getting at the roots 
any time. Leeks are perfectly hardy, but cannot very well be dug when 
the ground is badly frosted. It is advisable therefore to either mulch a 
portion of the bed, or else to lift and lay in closely a few dozen plants. 
Main crop Carrots ought to have been lifted and stored some time since, 
but any sown in June or July may well remain where they are, young 
Carrots being much the most tender and sweet when used direct from 
the ground; still later Carrots will continue to grow whenever the 
weather is mild, and that is another good reason for leaving them 
where they now are. They are seldom injured by frost, but it is 
advisable to have a heap of strawy litter in readiness for covering a 
portion at least of the beds whenever severe frosts are imminent, 
and the roots can then be drawn whenever required. 
The tops of Beet are hardier than the roots, and it is possible for the 
former to be uninjured by frost, and yet the roots be spoilt for eating. 
Lifting and storing is the best way out of the difficulty and ought to 
have been attended to some time since. Turnips are rather scarce 
this season, the late sowings failing in many places, while those early 
raised are somewhat coarse. Those not half grown may well be left to 
take their chance, and, unless a severe winter be experienced, will give 
acceptable tops next spring. Orange Jelly, White Stone, Red Globe and 
Chirk Castle Black Stone are all fairly hardy, but no risks ought to be 
run where the crops are small. A portion or all of the largest roots may 
well be pulled and trimmed, then placed in a heap in a cool, dry place 
and covered with straw heavily faced over with soil. Thus treated they 
will keep well, especially if turned once or twice during the winter and 
cleared of all young shoots. 
Turnip-rooted Celery is now quite large enough for storing, and will 
keep best if treated as advised in the case of Turnips, or, if preferred, 
the roots can be heavily covered with leaves or litter faced with soil. 
An ordinarily severe frost will not injure either Celery or Celeriac, and 
it is the extremes that have to be prepared for. The weather for some 
time past has been all against moulding up Celery, but unless this 
important work is persevered with the chances are much injury may be 
done before midwinter by a severe frost. If only partially earthed, frost 
will seriously damage the exposed stalks, the decay consequently spreading 
downwards and to the hearts very rapidly. Heavily earthing so as to 
leave only the tips of the leaves protruding is the best protection against 
frost, and unless this is done the plan of covering with boards nailed 
together in the form of a V and inverted over the rows in frosty 
weather, or the more objectionable practice of covering with strawy 
litter ought to be resorted to. When moulding up finish off neatly 
and smoothly so as to throw off as much water as possible, and see that 
there is a good outlet for all that accumulates between the ridges. 
Parsley has grown very strongly in the autumn, and will cut up 
badly if we have severe frosts during the winter. It is not yet too late 
to lift a considerable number of roots, removing the larger outside 
leaves from them prior to packing the plants closely in deep pots or boxes 
filled with rich loamy soil. If placed in a warm house of some kind, 
newly started Peach houses or vineries answering well, top growth will 
soon be fairly strong, and a difficulty probably avoided. Also cover up 
as much as possible with spare frames and handlights, abundance of 
Parsley being a pleasurable surprise to the cook. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums. —Cuttings of early flowering varieties will he 
ready for insertion. When these are grown solely for purposes of 
decoration boxes 5 inches deep are filled with light sandy soil, after 
placing a layer of leaf mould at the base, the cuttings being inserted 
moderately close together. If well watered after insertion and then 
covered with squares of iglass very few if any will fail to root. The 
boxes should be stood in any cooli house. Plants that are raised under 
cool treatment grow sturdily from the first. As soon as the cuttings are 
rooted the required number may be placed singly in small pots, or two 
or three may be placed together in 3-inch pots. This is only necessary 
where very large bushes are needed. Those required to produce exhibi¬ 
tion blooms may be inserted as far as cuttings can be obtained. These 
should be placed singly in small pots and stood in handlights in a cool 
house. There are various ways of raising these plants, and all may be 
practised with success. Stools that have not yet produced cuttings may 
be placed by themselves where they can be kept a little closer until 
they show signs of pushing. Be careful not to give too'much water 
to the old stools, especially those that have not displayed signs of 
growth. Plants for flowering at Christmas require abundance of air, as 
the present mild weather will bring them forward rapidly. Fogs and 
damp are the greatest enemies to these; to avoid them becoming 
spotted ventilate early in the day after the house has been closed at 
night. 
Hydrangeas .—Tops that were rooted early and developed flower 
buds may, if well ripened and the foliage has dropped off, be potted as 
opportunity offers. For these 5-inch pots are the most suitable. One 
good crock should be placed at the base, and the compost may consist 
of old Cucumber and Melon soil, if loam has been the principal 
ingredient for them. A little soot may be mixed with the soil. In 
potting, the soil may be pressed moderately firm, and the flower 
bud left just above the surface. After potting, the plants may be 
returned to a cold frame or any cool structure where they can be kept 
in an intermediate state of moisture without having recourse to the 
water pot. Plants that were rooted later may be kept on a shelf in the 
greenhouse or any cool house where they will be safe from frost until they 
have thoroughly matured their foliage. This is necessary if they are to 
do well; do not allow them to become dry. 
Hydrangea paniculata .—Although this variety will not bear forcing 
it is invaluable in pots for purposes of decoration. Plants that have 
been well established and made good growth outside should be 
lifted and placed in 5 to 7-inch pots, according to their size. These 
may be pruned close back and stood or plunged in cold frames. When 
the plants have not been established in pots they should be allowed 
to break into growth in the frames and then given greenhouse 
treatment. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—Plants that have flowered may be stood in a 
vinery or Peach house and kept perfectly dry, so that they can be cut 
back in a few weeks and started again into growth. 
Freesias .—Those that have made 1 or 2 inches of growth should be 
placed on a shelf near to the glass in the greenhouse, to prevent their 
drawing up weakly. These plants are often ruined by an attempt to 
force them into flower. Later supplies may be potted and stood in the 
greenhouse, where they can be covered with a little cocoa-nut fibre refuse 
until they have started into growth. 
Gladioli The Bride .—Keep those on a shelf in the greenhouse th at 
were potted early and have made some inches of growth. These plants 
do remarkably well under greenhouse treatment. A good number for 
late use may be potted at once, 5 and 6-inch pots being the most suitable 
size, placing the bulbs thickly in the pots. 
Lilium laneifolium .—Where these have been standing outside, and 
the old flower stems are dead, they may be cut away and the plants 
placed under cover until the soil is in an intermediate state of moisture. 
They should then be turned out and repotted. It is often necessary to 
break up the balls and sort them, for they increase rapidly under pot 
culture. If left too long before potting is commenced new roots are 
formed, and then it cannot be done properly without considerable 
injury. In potting use the soil in an intermediate state of moisture, 
place them in a frame, and cover the surface with ashes or cocoa-nut 
fibre refuse, which will prevent evaporation until they commence rooting 
and growing. 
Fuchsias .—A few plants may be pruned and started into growth in a 
vinery or Peach house that has been closed for starting. If the soil is 
very dry a little water may be given, and then if well syringed 
they will soon start into growth. 
Primula obconica .—Young plants in 3-inch pots may if required 
for spring flowering be placed into 5-inch pots. They will do well on 
a shelf in any position that is cool, and where they are safe from 
frost. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather. 
During the past week the temperature varied from 52° to 19° t 
calm and fine, to stormy. Several of the hives took advan¬ 
tage of the mildness and aired themselves ; most of them, how¬ 
ever, remained quiet. So far, neither death nor disease manifest 
their presence. 
Perforated Zinc Floors. 
Amongst my correspondence I have a letter from “F. McC., 
Annan’' which is interesting, and I give part of what he says to your 
readers. He seems alive to the risk bees run of dying when they 
leave the cluster of bees and descend to the floor. This is also our 
experience ; hence the reason we advocate the combs to be within 
the reach of the bees when upon the floor ; the space between the 
two should be the distance bees elect to leave. Of the floors he 
says, “ After experience of perforated zinc floors I am quite 
satisfied that they are good. They are perfectly clean in spring, 
and all the dirt is below, having fallen into peat moss which is 
below. I find the peat moss a favourite place for moths and their 
