December 17, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
511 
or catting them away, according as the dwarf-trained trees between 
them require more space, have oeen found to do so well that these 
have been retained and the dwarfs gradua'ly cleared out. In some 
instances nothing but half-standards were planted at the outset, 
and well balanced heads on these furnish a wall from top to 
bottom, a lapse of several years still finding them in a fairly 
vigorous and most productive state. Sixteen years ago I helped to 
plant a number of Morello Cherries against two long high garden 
walls, dwarf-trained trees being disposed 20 feet apart, with the 
4 feet standards midway between them. At the present time not 
one in twenty of the dwarfs are left where planted, the standards 
having done so much the best from the first. Why the latter 
should succeed better than dwarfs in some cases and not in 
others is not so difficult to decide as may appear at first sight. 
Being trained at a good height up the walls they derive greater 
benefit from the warmth, light, and air than do the low trained 
trees ; those against north walls being the most improved. The 
branches are nearly also more depressed in training, this checking 
extra strong growth, and on the whole it is not particularly 
surprising that standard or half-standard trees should have better 
balanced heads, better ripened, more durable wood, and produce 
crops more surely than the less favourably located dwarf-trained 
trees. I do not urge superseding the latter, but only suggest that 
we may be too hasty in deciding wholly in favour of either 
one or the other, the happy medium being most commendable.— 
W. Iggulden. 
GLOXINIAS FROM SEED. 
In olden times Gloxinia culture used to be rather a tedious 
business, but of late years the strains have been so much improved 
that few people, I suppose, now trouble to propagate these plants 
by means of leaves. Some years ago a writer gave a hint in the 
pages of the Journal as to planting Gloxinias upon hotbeds, 
and I adopted the plan, which should be more generally tried, as 
much finer tubers can be had for the following year than in any 
other way. We grow the erect kinds only, as they suit our require¬ 
ments the best whether for cutting purposes or for general utility. 
My mode of procedure is as follows. 
The seed is usually sown about the first week in February in 
the following manner. Take a shallow pan 9 or 10 inches in 
diameter, thoroughly clean and thoroughly well drain, covering the 
drainage with a little sphagnum or common moss. Fill within 
half inch of the rim with a mixture of brown peat well rubbed 
through the hands, adding enough sand to make it sparkle. Make 
it quite level, then very carefully open the seed packet, as the pinch 
of seed is so small that unless care is exercised it will be lost 
altogether. I have found it a good plan to get half a sheet of 
note paper—an old letter will do equally well—upon which I place 
about two or three thimblefuls of very fine sand, then pour out 
the seed on this, and well mix together, as it can then be sown 
much more evenly over the pan than by attempting to sow it out 
of the packet. I then water through a very fine rose, and do 
not cover with soil, but place a piece of glass over the pot, and 
cover the glass with moss to keep the seed dark, and place it in a 
warm moist house. Although the seed is so very small it is some 
eight or nine days in germinating. Keep a close watch, however, 
and as soon as the seedlings are visible gradually remove the moss, 
but take care the pan is* shaded from the direct rays of the sun. 
I rarely give any water from the time of sowing till the seedlings 
appear, and then keep them covered with the sheet of glass for 
some time, as they grow away much faster than without it. Occa¬ 
sionally wipe off the condensed vapour, and gradually remove the 
glass as the seedlings put forth the rough leaves. I generally 
remove the glass by night at first, and though some will say I am 
too particular, I find they pay for any little attention. 
As soon as they can be handled prick them out into shallow 
well-drained pans of peat, with a handful of old, sweet, and rather 
dry Mushroom bed refuse well rubbed through the hands, but 
not sifted, with enough sand to make it sparkle. 1 usually prick 
out the seedlings rather thick at first, as I fancy they do better, 
and as they become large enough they are again transplanted into 
shallow boxes, and grown till they are about 4 inches across, 
when they will be ready for planting into the frames or pits. 
They prefer a steady lasting warmth, afforded by half-spent 
leaves and manure mixed. I usually grow Alternantheras and 
similar plants upon the bed«, first merely giving it a turn, just 
adding a little fre-ffi material as the work goes on, making a firm 
bed. Upon this I place Cucumber frames, filling with from G to 
9 inches of soil, about half loam and peat or the refuse from 
other pottings with a little sand, as they obtain their chief suste¬ 
nance from the gentle ammonia vapours of the hotbed. 
All being carefully levelled the plants are placed out carefully 
about 10 inches or 1 foot apart, or they would be better with even 
more space than that. One good supply is given of warm water, 
and care is exercised that the sun does not play directly upon them. 
I usually shade the lights rather thickly with summer cloud before 
planting, as I once had one frameful completely spoilt while we 
were at dinner. They will only need attention in watering occa¬ 
sionally, with cautious ventilation, and if the nights be chilly 
throw a mat or i/wo over the frames ; they will grow luxuriantly, and 
give hundreds of magnificent flowers for cutting, which I have 
never been able to obtain in any other way. They will oontinue 
flowering until quite late in the autumn, and make fine heavy, 
fleshy tubers for the following year. They should be induced to 
retain the leaves as long as possible, as I find the tubers swell 
considerably after the leaves cease growing. About the middle of 
November we take them up, pack them tbickly together in shallow 
boxes, covering with cocoa-nut fibre refuse for the winter, and 
place them under the stage of a greenhouse where the temperature 
does not fall below 45° for any length of time. It may be 
necessary to fresh line the hotbeds a time or two during the 
summer and autumn. I have on some occasions lifted tubers 
considerably over a half a pound weight. They must be well secured 
against drip when under the stage of the greenhouse. I always 
take the precaution to tilt a large pane of glass or slate over them, 
as if a drip falls upon them decay commences at once. 
In preparing for the second year we usually make a start about 
the middle of February. We adopt what may be called a warm 
greenhouse treatment. The house is span-roofed, 24 feet by 
12 feet. I make a point each year to empty it for a short time to 
give a thorough clean out, washing the woodwork and every part 
with hot water and petroleum, as if Gloxinias once become infested 
with thrips or bug it is all over with them, for they cannot be 
sponged, and to fumigate sufficiently to kill thrips is ruin to the 
plants. 
We sort the tubers into two sizes. The largest are placed in 
32-size pots, and the smaller of them into 48-size thoroughly 
clean. The drainage is as complete as it can be made. The 
compost used consists of equal parts of brown turfy peat and loam,, 
with some sweet Mushroom bed refuse and a good dash of coarse 
silver sand. We mix the whole thoroughly, but leave it rough,, 
using some of the turf over the drainage. The tubers are usually 
covered au inch or so, but always leaving an inch of space to hold 
water, as the tubers swell considerably. We press rather firmly, 
arranging them close together on one of the side stages, which is 
of slate and covered with shingle. They at first only occupy one- 
half of one of the stages, the other part of the house is generally 
used for newly potted bedding Pelargoniums that require a 
little extra warmth. We give one thorough watering, and no 
more until the soil appears to be dry, and the greatest care is 
exercised until they have filled the pots with roots. The tempera¬ 
ture is kept about 55° to GO 0 by night, rising considerably by sun 
heat. Their progress should be steady, the air of the house being 
kept fairly moist, but not enough to promote long sappy foliage. 
Spread out the plants as the foliage reaches the sides of the pots. 
At first we usually give them the whole length of one side of the 
house, placing each pot upon an inverted one, as in time they will 
completely cover their own pot and the one they stand upon. The 
house should be ventilated, but never open the side lights, as they' 
will not endure draughts. If a crowd of small shoots appear we 
thin them to about three or five, which is ample to make a thoroughly 
good plant. Many of them will need a little attention in this way, 
and as they grow they will again require further thinning until 
the house is filled. 
Watering is one of the chief points in connection with their 
culture. The best soil and the best house are usehss if the watering 
be trusted only for a short time to an inexperienced hand. As 
soon as they have filled their pots with roots and have commenced 
to show their flower buds freely I commence feeding them with 
guano water. I have tried all sorts of manures, but nothing ever 
gave so much satisfaction as good guano. I place about a pound 
into a 4 gallon can, and if I want to use it at once I fill it with warm 
water, and with this about three such lots are made, or twelve 
gallons. 1 water them with this three times a week until they are in 
bloom, when all stimulants are discontinued. I often find it 
necessary to supply water twice a day, as when they become a 
mass of foliage and flowers it wdl be readily understood they 
require a great deal, and often the pot becomes so completely 
covered it is difficult to find a place to apply the water. Let the 
supplies from the commencement be thorough, and do not get into 
that half-hearted way in giving it by driblets in their early stages. 
It is always better to err on the side of giving too little than too 
much ; but in the later stages they can be freely watered without 
fear of injury. 
As I said at the commencement they must have some shade. 
We use milk and whiting with some green powder added till 
about the thickness of cream, and apply when the glass _ is 
