628 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Tecember 17, 1891. 
may be injurious ; but pure alcohol or spirits of wine is quite safe and 
effectual when carefully used. As a winter wash you could not have any¬ 
thing better than sof tsoap, 3 or 4 ozs. to a gallon of water, applied with a 
brush, dislodging the scale, and taking care not to rub off the embryonic 
Figs, nor break off the points of the shoots. A solution of half an ounce 
of caustic soda and half an ounce of pearlash to a gallon of hot water 
may be applied with a brush in a tepid state, thoroughly washing every 
part, but not letting it run down, merely keeping the brush sufficiently 
moistened with the solution to insure the regular coating of the wood. 
These are for winter dressings only. 
Alnwick Seedling Crape Vine Unfruitful (A. M .).—You do 
not say whether the Vine fails to show bunches, and is consequently 
sterile, or that showing fruit it fails to set properly for a crop. If the 
latter, as we suspect, the bunches should be brushed with a camel’s-hair 
brush or plume of Pampas Grass when in flower, and after that apply 
pollen to the bunches from such free-setting varieties as Black Hamburgh, 
brushing them lightly with a camel’s-hair brush charged from time to 
time with the pollen, wffiich may be collected from Black Hamburghs 
when in full flower by holding a sheet of white paper beneath a bunch 
and gently rapping its footstalk with the finger. If the Vine does not 
show fruit we can only suggest that the wood be left longer in pruning 
—say, instead of pruning to one or two buds leave four to six, and 
alwavs shortening to a plump eye on well-ripened wood. 
Tabernoemontanas (N. S.). —The varieties of this useful plant 
produce their double white flowers nearly the whole year round. 
T. coronaria fl.-pl., is more adapted for spring and early summer 
flowering, while T. camassa produced its flowers in greatest abundance 
about August. This has been the character of large plants, and in order, 
if possible, to induce the first-named variety to flower during the winter 
cut it hard back, and after it had commenced growth it was pushed on 
rapidly, until a few weeks ago it was placed under a little cooler 
treatment. It is again in brisk heat, and has commenced showing a fair 
number of flower buds. Hard cutting back appears to suit them well, 
for our plants have made remarkable growth, and we intend to subject 
them to the cutting-back system annually, especially so if we can make 
them flower during the dullest months of the year by so doing. 
Pruning Young Vines (77., Surrey ').—As a rule young Vines do 
not make satisfactory progress when planted between others that have 
been long established in old borders, and are certainly less likely to 
do so when the canes are left their full length after planting. Those 
referred to ought either to have been shortened in the autumn, or the 
buds rubbed off them in spring down to a good one towards the best 
for encouraging strong growth. The best thing that can be done will be 
to cut down the canes at once to the best bud you can find not far from 
the ground. If you also remove some of the old soil from round the 
roots, and add fresh of a suitable character, you will have done what 
you can for the Vines, and if they do not succeed as is desired, you can 
scarcely be held responsible under the circumstances of finding them in 
the condition described. Your other question will be answered next week. 
Pruning Xpomsea I>earl (d/.). — Ipomtea Leari is one of the 
best conservatory climbers ; but it will be apt to suffer if the average 
temperature at night in winter be long be’ow 45°, and especially 
if the main stem be near the glass of the roof, where .it would be most 
quickly cooled by radiation on a frosty night. If the plant consist of 
one main strong stem, with flowering shoots coming from that main 
stem all tne way, then each of these shoots may be pruned back now to 
within three or four joints or buds from the main stem. In spring, 
after winter is past, you may prune back to one or two buds, as it is 
from the shoots produced in summer from these buds that the flowering 
takes place. If the plant be not furnished with a stout main stem, it 
would be advisable to merely partly prune now and again in spring. 
Prune in such a manner as to leave a sufficient amount of buds to pro¬ 
duce shoots regularly all over the plant; say, to produce a stout shoot, 
every 15 or 18 inches ; and these will look best if allowed to grow 
downwards as danglers from the main stem and rafters. If your house 
be Kept cool in winter it would be advisable to suspend the main stem 
2 or 3 feet from the glass. 
Winter Treatment of Allamandas (72. S. 7?)—If they are 
required in bloom as early as possible in the season plants that have 
enjoyed a good rest in a temperature of 55 n mav be started. These 
plants may either be repotted before they are introduced into a warmer 
house or after they have broken into growth. We have potted them at 
both periods, and have found no appreciable difference in the results, 
and therefore prefer doing it before they are started. The plants should 
be turned out of their pots and the roots reduced, being careful to 
preserve as many fibry roots as possible. The soil should afterwards be 
soaked in tepid water and allowed to drain before potting. If the 
plants have been in large enough pots the same size may be used. If 
necessary to increase the size of the plants do not reduce the old ball so 
liberally, and transfer them into pots one or two sizes larger than they 
were resting in. They should be clean and liberally drained. The soil 
may be pressed as firmly as possible, and the plants then placed into a 
house with a night temperature of 65°. If they can be plunged in 
leaves or other fermenting material so much the better. The plants 
should be syringed twice daily, but no water will be needed at the roots 
before they start into growth. Use for a compost rich fibry loam and 
one-seveDth of decayed manure. Plants that are growing in borders 
should have the surface soil removed and top-dressed with equal parts of 
loam and manure. 
Thinning Larch Plantation (71 IF. 72.).—The Larch will now 
be suitable for stakes and various useful purposes, and the first thinning 
should be effected as soon as practicable. The trees being planted^so 
thickly, it will be necessary to cut away about one-fourth of the worst 
shaped and ill placed, or, if the trees are very vigorous and require more 
room for their healthy development, it may be necessary to thin out 
more freely, always bearing in mind that excessive thinnings are more 
injurious than beneficial ; at the same time the thinning must be 
efficient, allowing top space for those that remain, so as to insure a 
sturdy growth. Where the trees have grown most they should be 
thinned most, and vice versa. At the next thinning, say in three years 
hence, the trees will be suitable for rails and general fencing purposes. 
Therefore it is not advisable to thin too severely at first, but whilst con¬ 
sidering the ultimate good of the trees, keep in view the utility of the 
thinnings, as they may be of little use at first, but if left a little longer 
(without prejudice to those that would remain after thinning), their 
value would be considerably enhanced. Judgment must be exercised, 
removing in the first instance the most unsatisfactory in growth. 
Pereskla aculeata (72. P.). —The plant of which you send a frag¬ 
ment is Pereskia aculeata, a member of the natural order Cactaceae, and a 
native of the West Indies. It is chiefly grown as a stock for Epiphyl- 
lums, which are grafted on clean stems of the Pereskia, varying in 
height according to the uses for which the plants are intended. For 
plants in pots a height of 6 inches to 1^ foot is sufficient; but we have 
seen the stems taken to a height of 8 feet or more before grafting the 
Epiphyllums upon them. In this case the stems have been trained to 
the wall of a house, and the heads arched over a walk, the suspended 
Epiphyllums having thus a fine effect when in flower. The Pereskia 
itself is of little value except as a curiosity, and is easily grown, though 
seldom seen in flower. A compost of lo.m, sand, and small pieces of 
broken bricks, with a little well-decomposed manure, suits it well, and 
ihe temperature of a stove is the best fitted for it. Water must be care¬ 
fully supplied during winter—indeed, very li.tle will then be required ; 
but whilst growing a larger quantity is needed. When your plant is 
large enough we should advise you to graft an Epiphyllum upon it, 
which you may easily do by cutting the stock to the required length, and 
then cut the upper part of the stem to a wedge-like point, taking a piece 
out of the base of the scion so that it will fit evenly saddle fashion upon 
the stock. This may be then secured with a piece of matting, and a 
union will soon be effected. 
Pear Trees Infested with Scale (N. S.). —The scale will con¬ 
tinue to spread, and ultimately will overpower the growth of the trees 
and rerder them unprofitable, and sometimes the insects kill the trees. 
The pests, however, sometimes disappear naturally, being destroyed by 
certain minute insects of the great division Hymenoptera, which are 
parasitic on the scale insects. Birds also destroy great numbers, the 
blue titmouse and long-tailed titmouse pecking off the “ scales ” and 
eating the eggs; but these “aids to cultivators” are not sufficiently 
numerous in gardens to prove of benefit, and the blue titmouse is too 
fond of choice Pears and Apples, pecking holes into them and destroying 
the best fruits, that its merits receive little consideration. Brushing the 
trees with whale oil when the trees are quite dry and at rest destroys 
the scale by closing the pores by which it breathes. That is a safe and 
sure method of destroying scale on Pear or Apple trees. Alkaline washes 
are also very effectual, especially the followingCaustic soda and 
commercial potash (pearlash) half pound each dissolved in boiling 
water, then adding enough hot water to make 5 gallons of wash. This 
should be used as a spray on the trees whilst dry and when they are 
quite dormant, wetting every part thoroughly with the solution at a 
temperature of 100° to 120°. The trees, being against walls, are difficult 
to cover with spray on the under side of the branches ; therefore unloose 
the trees and apply the solution with a brush, employing it weaker— 
that is, instead of diluting to 5 gallons dilute to 8 gallons, applying it 
hot, as before stated. This will bring off the scale, and if not used 
carelessly and excessively will not injure the trees. There is no need to 
prevent the trees fruiting for a year. 
Names of Fruits.— Notice. —Special attention is directed to the 
following decision, the object of which is to discourage the growth of 
inferior and promote the culture of superior varieties. In consequence 
of the large number of icorthless Apples and Pears sent to this office to 
be named, it has been decided to name only specimens and varieties of 
approved merit, and to reject the inferior, which arc not worth sending 
or growing. The names and addresses of senders of fruit to be named 
must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether letters 
referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are not 
necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. Only six 
specimens can be named at once, and any beyond that number cannot 
be preserved. (A. S. Brettj. —We have recognised the box by your 
description. There was no letter in it. The Apple is not Worcester 
Pearmain, but Caraway Russet. 
Names of Plants. —We only undertake to n^me species of plants* 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spore3. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, dry 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once, 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(A. 72. S). —A good variety of Cypripedium insigne, somewhat like 
Maulei. There are many named varieties of this species now, and it is 
not difficult to select over a dozen with well marked characters. 
(P. G.). —Iris Histrio. (71 IF. 7?.).—1, Oncidium cheirophorum ; 2 
Odontoglossum coronarium ; 3, Trichosma suavis. 
