548 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 24, 1891. 
much cheaper than the other, and half the quantity suffices, or 4 ozs. 
per square yard. Carefully examine the inside borders, and supply a 
thorough soaking of water if dry, as dryDess at the roots will cause the 
buds to fall later on. Keep the houses as cool as possible, so as to insure 
complete rest. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Plants introduced into the forcing house 
early in the month have commenced swelling their crowns, and the 
trusses of flowers showing, the temperature may be advanced to 60° to 
65° with a free circulation of air, but avoid a high temperature by arti¬ 
ficial means ; 50° to 55° is sufficiently high at night, and on dull, cold 
days. Maintain a genial moisture in the atmosphere ; syringe the plants 
lightly in the afternoon of bright days, but early so as to let the foliage 
have time to dry before nightfall. Look the plants over daily for water, 
and supply it to all those in need. Keep a sharp look out for aphides. 
They frequently cluster about the crowns, and should be subdued by 
fumigating on two consecutive evenings, having the foliage dry. More 
plants should be got ready for placing in Peach houses to be started at 
the new year. These are be3t placed in frames or houses from which 
frost is excluded, as the plants can then be drafted into the forcing 
structures as required. The dead leaves only should be removed, loosen¬ 
ing the surface soil, removing it, and top-dressing with turfy loam con¬ 
taining a good handful of approved artificial manure to each gallon of 
soil, and afterwards feed with dissolved bone manure two parts, and 
nitrate of soda one part mixed, and take a pinch between the thumb 
and finger and sprinkle it on the surface of the soil, keeping it clear of 
the foliage and fruit. This must not be given until the plants are in 
growth. See to the drainage of the pots, rectifying it if defective, and 
wash the pots clean. Plants for introducing later are best in frames, 
except the late batches, which will be quite safe in their outside quarters 
plunged to the rim in ashes, and in sharp weather a light covering of 
dry fern or litter will make all safe, removing it whenever the weather 
is mild, if snow fall this will be quite unnecessary. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. —The growth these make at this time of year is usually 
of a somewhat sickly character, and it is decidedly a mistake to force 
them much. On the contrary, the plants, whether in pots or ridges of 
soil, ought to be only just kept moving, a dry atmosphere being main¬ 
tained with the aid of fire heat and a good circulation of air. Neither 
fruiting nor store plants thrive in a cool or rather damp greenhouse, an 
intermediate temperature best meeting the case. In order to have 
plenty of ripe fruit during the winter crops ought to have been set not 
later than September, a long succession then ripening during the 
autumn and winter. Any flowers that may show at this late period 
rarely open and set properly, the majority falling before expanding. It 
is yet advisable to keep healthy plants, whether young or old, as these 
will grow away more strongly directly the days become longer, the old 
plants breaking very freely, while all will produce good crops well in 
advance of any that may be raised or shifted into larger pots during 
January. Now is a good time to check the spread of disease and to 
exterminate the troublesome white fly or Aleyrodes. Fungoid diseases 
spread most rapidly in a moderately warm house and moist atmosphere, 
or Buch as cannot well be avoided in April. A strong dry heat is 
evidently tie best preventive, subjecting the plants occasionally to a 
temperature raised by fire heat to 85° or more effectually destroying most 
of the germs. No kind of insecticide nor repeated fumigations are of 
much avail against the white fly, but what these cannot stand is an 
atmosphere well charged with sulphur. If the hot-water pipes are 
coatedwith a mixture of milk and sulphur, this being renewed occasion¬ 
ally, every time they become extra hot strong fumes will be given off, 
and ere summer arrives not a live Aleyrodes will be found in the houses 
so treated. The sulphur fumes are quite harmless as far as plant life is 
concerned. 
The Mushroom House.— While the mild weather lasts fire heat 
ought to be used very sparingly, or otherwise the crops will be brought 
on too rapidly, and be of poor quality too. The other extreme is not 
advisable, as without fire heat or sufficient fresh heating material in the 
shape of a newly formed bed to raise the temperature to about 55° the 
chances are late-spawned beds will not become productive till next 
February or March. Beds raised well clear of the floor are the most 
reliable at this time of year, these getting the benefit of any warmth 
going underneath. Directly over where the hot-water pipes or flues run 
the first Mushrooms are obtained, and beds may also be forwarded 
considerably by the formation of a brisk hotbed of leaves and manure 
directly under them. When the latter have had the effect desired they 
may, if desirable, be returned, watered gently if at all dry, freshened 
somewhat, and then formed into a square bed. Next enclose on the top 
of this, with the aid of stakes and deep boards, about 6 inches of well- 
prepared horse droppings, making these firm in the usual manner. 
Spawn this directly it is well warmed through, or directly there is no 
likelihood of a dangerous increase of heat, and soil over at then or any 
time during the next three weeks. This may be the means of obtaining 
very acceptable Mushrooms next spring. 
Beds that have been spawned for some time, or say six weeks ago, 
and not yet showing Mushrooms should be examined, and if dry be 
given a gentle yet thorough soaking of lukewarm water. More likely 
than not this season they will be found too wet, and an excess of 
moisture is prejudicial to either the running of the mycelium or a 
satisfactory progress of the crops that show. Therefore be cautious with 
the use of the syringe, and also clear off all saturated mulching material, 
substituting some that is fresh, soft, and dry. Just now the Mushroom 
house is of the greatest service in forcing Seakale, Rhubarb, and Swede 
tops, the latter only in the case of Seakale roots being scarce, Chicory 
also being forwarded and Endive blanched to perfection in these much 
darkened places. When there is a flue running through the house set 
pots or boxes filled with Seakale directly on this, and if the soil is kept 
thoroughly moist top growth will be rapid and fairly strong. As a rule 
about a dozen strong roots of Chicory are enough to introduce into the 
Mushroom house at one time, as they give heavy crops of leaves, of 
which not many at a time are mixed in salads. Blanched Endive keeps 
badly and it is unwise therefore to place many at a time in the Mush¬ 
room house, two dozen every week being ample for most establishments. 
Surround the roots with moist soil, dryness tending to make the tops 
hard and bitter. 
Open-air Mushroom Beds. —Those who depend solely upon these 
will most probably fare badly this season, the weather being altogether 
against them. The ordinary heavy coverings of strawy litter have been 
of little avail against such frequent and heavy storms of wind and rain. 
Tarpaulins, if securely fixed, would have kept off the rain and prevented 
the beds from being badly saturated, but even these are somewhat risky. 
Over-heating after spawning and soiling is the most frequent cause of 
partial or complete failures with ridge-shaped beds, and not till all risks 
of this are past may tarpaulins be used with safety, as these serve to 
enclose the heat as well as exclude cold winds and rain. Fortunately 
Mushroom spawn is not so easily destroyed as some may think, and it 
would be unwise to break up a bed prematurely, as a crop may be forth¬ 
coming directly warm weather sets in next spring. They must not be 
left to take their chance though, and it is most advisable to examine all 
the beds on the first fine and mild day, clearing them of all saturated 
mulching material, and covering afresh with not less than a foot in 
thickness of dry litter. Much may be done towards warding off heavy 
rains by means of thatched hurdles meeting together well over the beds. 
There ought also to be a clear course for all the water that runs from 
the ridges, as if it remains about them far too much moisture will soak 
up into the beds. Beds in full bearing to be uncovered as little as- 
possible, and by the same man each time. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove .—During the past mild weather the temperature has 
ranged higher at night than is usual for this structure. Some care is 
now needed to keep the temperature as low as possible consistent with 
external conditions. If severe weather should set in the temperature 
could not be maintained without unduly heating the hot-water pipes, 
which is injurious, and the reverse of economy. If the plants are 
gradually hardened to a temperature of 60°, or a few degrees higher on 
mild occasions, no check will result to the plants if that temperature, 
or a degree or two lower, is maintained during severe cold weather. 
Watering .—Let all watering be done in the early part of the day, 
and some care is needed not to give the plants too much. Plants are 
easily overwatered at this period of the year, when growth is practically 
at a standstill. On the other hand, they must not be allowed to suffer 
by an insufficient supply. Employ the syringe whenever there is a 
prospect of a fine day, in fact twice daily when the pipes have to be 
made fairly warm to maintain the desired temperature. Failure in 
damping and syringing during the winter months often ends in the 
plants being seriously injured by thrips. A warm dry atmosphere is 
favourable to the spread of these pests. 
Cleaning .—Thoroughly clean plants that are infested with insects, 
as well as the houses in which they are grown. A few days devoted to 
thorough cleaning at this season of the year will save weeks of sponging 
at a busy time. It must be remembered that cleaning every corner in 
the house is equally as iqjportant as cleaning the plants. The glass 
inside and out should be washed, and the walls whitewashed, so that 
the house will be light and sweet. Every ray of light possible must be 
admitted at this period of the year. 
Hotbeds .—Where Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Bougainvilleas, and 
other plants are needed early, lose no time in making up a hotbed to 
give them a start. It is surprising how quickly plants start into growth 
when stood on or plunged in a bed of fermenting material composed of 
litter and dry leaves. If plenty of Oak or Beech leaves can be obtained 
they may form three parts of the mixture. The leaves must be dry, and 
the whole carefully mixed together in some position where it will be 
safe from rain, and turned two or three times before it is taken into the 
house and the bed made up. Make the bed firm so that fermentation 
will not be rapid and violent heat produced. Young Dracaenas that 
have been recently placed into larger pots will make rapid progress in 
a temperature of 60° if the slight bottom heat is given them that a hot¬ 
bed affords. 
Encharises .—Plants that have flowered and need repotting may be 
attended to as soon as the hotbed is ready. They soon become estab¬ 
lished when gentle bottom heat is given them, and they start more 
quickly by the aid of heat and mo'sture from fermenting material than 
is the case when plunged in cocoa-nut fibre refuse and bottom heat 
supplied by hot-water pipes. Plants that have been resting in an inter¬ 
mediate temperature will soon push up their flowers under the condi¬ 
tions advised for those to be repotted. 
Cyperus distans .—If these are not throwing up fast enough it is a 
mistake to place them in heat, in fact the plants are quickly ruined by 
such treatment. They will advance without injury in a temperature of 
50°, but in a warmer house they often fail to open properly, and the 
foliage becomes drawn and weak, and is broken when the plants are 
