32 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 9, 1895. 
sides being cut as true and smooth as if it had come out of a planing 
machine. The rolling frame is iron, with wooden rollers working in 
studded eyes varying in thickness from 2 inches to half an inch. There 
is a steel blade fixed at the bottom, so that by a jerk of the lever the 
blade is made to cut through the turf, the onward motion of the machine 
compelling it to run up the wooden roller, and the large roller causing it 
quickly to fall from the perpendicular. The lever is released when the 
turf is large enough, and the frame will run over the rolled turf, when the 
first motion is again repeated. It will be seen that the machine, is a most 
useful appliance in the laying out of gardens, but this is not its only 
purpose. The inventor claims that by taking the knives off the drum, and 
using the appliance in this way, a piece of lawn which has become infested 
with objectionable growths, such as Daisies, Plantain leaf, rank grasses > 
Dandelions, See., can be completely changed for the better, and that it can 
also be applied to rough pastures, as the machine could be used to 
destroy rank grasses in such pastures. Further, by substituting a blade 
with more pitch at c, as shown by the engraving, the ground to be levelled 
for tennis, cricket, &c., grounds, can be broken up in about the same 
time as it takes to lift the turf, thus obviating the digging, levelling, 
raking, and rolling by hand. The machine therefore is a very useful 
appliance, which should form a sine qua non of the landscape gardener, 
and would be useful in every gentleman’s garden where turf requires 
levelling or renovating. It need only be better known to be highly 
appreciated.” 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Stalling Asparagus .—The recent warm weather has brought on the 
Asparagus shoots so quickly that they are now very tall. The growths 
should be secured to prevent their breaking over by the crown, which is 
very liable to be the case if left untied until the first storm of wind, 
which may happen any day. 
Salsafg and Scorzonera. —Where these show any signs of blooming 
prematurely have them drawn up at once, and sow again. Crops which 
are going on all right should be thinned out to at least 6 inches from 
plant to plant. Those two vegetables were finer with us last winter than 
we ever had them. They were growing in what we might term thoroughly 
good Carrot soil, and as they were thinned in good time they developed 
without any check. 
Mushroom Bods. —These are worse to manage now than they are in 
early spring or late autumn, as the summer heat brings maggots, and is 
otherways troublesome. A cool position under large spreading trees and 
behind walls are good places for beds now, and very cool sheds or 
cellars will also do. Where maggots are destroying the crops dissolve a 
small handful of salt in 4 gallons of tepid water and water the surface 
thoroughly with this. 
Swedish Turnips.—We have had to deal with cooks who would not 
use these, and we have found others who preferred them to all others in 
winter. They are very hardy and easily grown, and an excellent winter 
vegetable. Those who have not tried them might do worse than begin. 
The present is a good time to sow for a main winter crop. They require 
rich soil and an open position. The drills should be 2 inches deep, 
18 inches apart, the seed sown thinly, and the plants thinned out to 
1 foot apart as soon as they can be handled. 
Vegetable Marrows. —These are now growing fast. If left alone at 
this season they soon become a tangled mass of growths, large leaves, and 
little fruit; but if thinned out systematically, each shoot kept clear of its 
neighbour, and all grown in the sunshine, sturdy growth and fruits at every 
joint will be the result. Many promising blooms which open never form 
fruit, and sometimes we hear complaints of the plants not fruiting at all. 
In nine cases out of ten this is owing to the crowded state of the shoots 
and leaves. Those who may have neglected thinning and training until 
they are reminded of it here need not be surprised if their plants do not 
begin to fruit on the day or week they are taken in hand, as when 
neglected at first their after fruiting is never altogether satisfactory, at 
least for a time. Give those bearing heavy crops abundance of liquid 
manure. Cut off the fruits before they become too old if a long succes¬ 
sion of tender fruits are desired. The same remarks apply to ridge 
Cucumbers, and great attention should be given to them just now. 
Cabbage— For the autumn supply the seed ought to be sown now. 
Choose a good position, sowing in shallow drills, and when the plants 
have made a few leaves by the beginning of August plant them 18 inches 
apart in good soil after the Potatoes or some other crop. 
Seakale. —This has grown unusually well this season. It came into 
flower in May, and we allowed it to bloom as much as possible that the 
bees might get the benefit of it, but were it not for this we would 
not have allowed, the flowers to expand, and those who are not in¬ 
terested in bee-keeping should cut the heads off as soon as they show 
flower. Ours are out of bloom now, and the seed has been cut off. 
Fresh crowns are being sent up from the sides, and the main p oint 
now is to keep the plants free from dead leaves and weeds. _ ... _ 
Late Peas. —Toe latest crops of all may still be sown, and if the 
autumn is favourable the produce will be very valuable. Rich deep 
soil will alone grow them well, and the position cannot be too sunny. 
Early kinds are sometimes put in now, but we do not like to trust to 
these altogether, as they are rather tender in late autumn, and often 
fail when the late sorts are going on all right. 
Rhubarb. —Roots intended for early forcing should be kept free from 
decayed leaves that the crowns may be fully exposed to the sun. Where 
tender young Rhubarb is wanted in the autumn pull up most of the 
stalks from a few of the roots, and they will soon break into fresh 
growth and give a supply of as tender produce as any which could be 
grown in spring. 
Late Beans. —Broad Beans may be put in for the latest crep. They 
will pod in September and remain good for a considerable time after¬ 
wards. Runners will come in very late if sown now in favourable 
districts, and dwarfs of Osborn’s Forcing and the Ne Plus Ultra types 
may be put in with every certainty of their forming a very acceptable 
crop. Give them good soil, sow thin, and let their position be an open 
and sunny one. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Early .forced Trees in Pots. —When ths second crop has been 
gathered fruiting ehould be discontinued, and the young growths allowed 
to find their way to the glass, where in the full light they will ripen to 
the points of the shoots, and set as many Figs as they have leaves ; but 
care must be taken in their management, otherwise they will be too far 
advanced to stand over the autumn, and the thinning and forcing neces¬ 
sary to their swelling and ripening will weaken the trees and keep them 
too long to admit of a proper season of rest before they are started in 
November. Although a third crop is sometimes taken it is at the expense 
of the succeeding early crop, which is of more consequence as forced 
fruit is then scarce, and on this account we find it more profitable to 
take two crops, and gradually inure the trees to full exposure through 
August and September by increasing the roof ventilation, and withdrawing 
the lights in hot weather. A liberal supply of water is necessary, and 
the foliage will need syringing, and most probably sponging, in order to 
keep it clean and healthy until it shows signs of ripening, when a gradual 
reduction will be advantageous. 
Trees Planted Out. — Similar treatment is necessary in succession 
houses with regard to stopping and ripening, the points of the shoots being 
allowed to ascend, but under the extension system of training over a trellis 
less pinching or stopping is required. Many fruits, especially Figs, are 
injured by being stopped too late or after the middle of July. When the 
trees are getting too strong it is better to lift, root-prune, and replant in 
autumn, than to have a quantity of blind points. When the trained 
trees have finished the first crop the needful cleansing of the foliage, and 
liberal thinning of the fruit from which the second crop is to be obtained, 
must have attention, otherwise the fruit will be small and indifferent 
in quality. Figs when growing delight in heat and moisture, and require 
an abundance of light and air when ripening. 
Pines. —At this time of year we have advantages in the way of light 
and heat which should be utilised as much as possible, and artificial heat 
should be dispensed with or only employed when absolutely necessary. 
If the temperature in the fruiting house stands at 70° at night fire heat is 
not needed, while it is quite unnecessary where the young stock ia 
located when the night temperature does not fall below 60°. The chief of 
the fruit will now be cut from the most advanced section of summer- 
fruiting plants ; therefore, at as early a date as convenient, the suckers 
should be carefully screwed out, and without delay he potted firmly in 
good prepared friable loam in properly drained pots of 5 to 7 inches in 
diameter, alter which they should be plunged into a bed having a tem¬ 
perature at 6 inches beneath the surface of 80° to 90° in a pit or house, 
which can be kept somewhat moist. Shading should be applied over the 
suckers whenever the sun is powerful, until new roots have formed, 
and 'growth is proceeding vigorously, after which little shade will 
be necessary unless the plants stand near to the glass. The suckera 
should be watered at the time of potting, but none should be given to 
them until it is actually needed. Keep the structure damp, and lightly 
dew the plants twice a day. In other houses the general management 
will comprise attention to watering, shading, syringing, and ventilating, 
the latter having prompt attention whenever necessary by opening the 
house early to dispel damp in the daytime, and by closing early. Water 
the plants judiciously, examining the surface of the soil in the pots by 
hand, and supply liquid manure whenever needed abundantly. Plants in 
small pots should he attended to at least twice a week. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Pinks. —There are few more popular flowers than these, and the 
number of superior varieties are increasing annually. The old white is 
still a great favourite, but to a certain extent is being replaced by the 
much larger and more continuous blooming Mrs. Sinkins, and this, again, 
may yet be superseded by La Belle Blanche, a charming variety, more 
pure white in colour and quite as free blooming. The present is a good 
time for striking cuttings—or pipings, as they are termed—of all the 
sorts, and as young plants will always be found the most profitable a 
certain quantity should be reared every season, A mild hotbed is the 
most suitable for the purpose, though in many warm districts it is quite 
possible to root them in handlights and frames without the assistance of 
