81 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 30, 1885. 
blooms, colour, and size of petal. Passing this questionable point, which I 
find different in different Rose lists, I would like to ask you, Why is the 
former so seldom found on exhibition lists and winning stands ? In shape 
it is faultless, and the deep dark crimson of the thick velvety petals is 
unrivalled by any other Rose I know, even by the much-abused A. K. 
Williams or Charles Lefebvre, which it resembles in shape and vigour. A 
point worth remembering just now with the temperature 82° in the shade is 
that those magnificent Roses should be cut in the early morning, when they 
last four times as long.—W. J. Murphy, Clonmel. 
STANDS FOR EXHIBITING GRAPES. 
Will you give a drawing of an exhibition stand for Grapes at your 
earliest convenience in your Journal? Mr. Barron in his “ Book on 
Vines ” recommends one used by Mr. Mclndoe. I would like to see it 
illustrated.— A. Subscriber, Co. Dublin. 
[We have not an engraving of Mr. Mclndoe’s stands, but the following 
were supplied by Mr. Inglis two years ago, and as the number containing 
them is out of print they are reproduced with the notes pertaining to 
them. 
“ It is much to be regretted that promoters of fruit shows do not name 
the size and shape of boards or boxes upon which Grapes are exhibited. 
Nothing that we can place on exhibition tables creates so much interest 
Fig. 12. 
as Grapes, yet how often do we see them indifferently staged ? Boxes 
and boards of all shapes and sizes, and of many angles, presenting when 
placed in a row a grotesque appearance when compared with uniform 
rows of Dahlia and other boxes which have been reduced to some sort of 
a standard. 
‘‘ Some time ago I was much interested in watching the unpacking and 
staging of Grapes at a local show where they were well represented. 
The Grapes were a very good lot, and the majority of them were well 
staged, but owing to the different angles of the boards, some of which 
could not well be altered, they did not look so well as they might have 
done. 
“ I think the best and simplest form of box is that represented at 
fig. 12. The angle is 45°, and anyone can make one by the following 
directions. Get a piece of three-quarter-inch deal 10 inches wide by 
12 inches long, cut it perfectly square at both ends, draw a pencil mark 
to correspond with the dotted lines in fig. 13, each 1 inch from the ends 
and parallel with them. This leaves the spaces, A b c d, a square 
10 inches each way, and if cut through with the saw from B to D, and 
each set on its square, they will be of the desired angle. Upon these fix 
the board (three-eighths of an inch thick) for the Grapes to rest upon, 
which for this size will have to be about 14 inches wide. Another piece 
Fig. 13. 
of deal (half inch thick) 0 inches wide is fixed at the back of the stand, 
and rising 2£ or 3 inches above it, pierced with two holes opposite where 
each bunch is to be placed, by which means they are secured to the board 
with twine or tape. A very thin lath about 2 inches wide is fixed along 
the front, its upper edge rounded off and standing a little above the board, 
and similar pieces at each end forming a narrow beading all round, makes 
the stand look neat. As to length, each bunch should have 8 or 9 inches 
of board.; thus a box for three bunches should be 27 inches. 
“ Fig. 14 shows the Grape stand in a box ready for travelling. 
It should be just large enough to hold the stand, should be light, and 
have a handle fixed in the centre of the top to carry it by. 
“Fig. 15 is a simple form of board, supported behind by two legs, 
connected by a lath and generally held in position by a piece of twine, 
but instead of that it would be preferable to have short spikes as at A A, 
so that when on the table it can be placed at any desired angle, the spikes 
keeping it from slipping about. This can be placed in a box the same 
as at fig. 14, the legs of the stand being laid parallel with the board. 
“ Some exhibitors place their Grapes on the bare boards. A better 
plan, I think, is to place a covering of cotton wool all over the board, 
leaving about an inch clear all round the outside. With a small brush 
apply some gum or paste just inside the beading, and have a sheet of 
white tissue paper ready to cover the whole of the cotton wool, and adhere 
to the stand round the edges. Examine each bunch before laying it on 
the board and place it on its flattest side, and secure it by means of string 
or tape, as shown at fig. 12 ; or if the bunches are large the tape may be 
placed round the junction of the shoulders of the bunch, placing the bunch, 
higher on the stand than is here shown, at the same time twisting the 
stems of the bunches along the face of the upright board, so that they do 
not come in the way when placed in a box. When large bunches have to 
travel some distance it is desirable to have them secured to the board 
A A 
Fig. 16. 
about the middle of the bunch. Two small holes should be made in the 
board under each bunch, and by means of a small packing needle carefully 
pass a piece of narrow tape up from below through the bunch and down 
again on the opposite side of the main stem of the bunch, using a pencil 
to guide the needle amongst the berries, which must not be touched with 
the hands. This should be tied just tight enough to steady the bunch. 
The figures added to fig. 14 are the measurements of stand fig. 12 in 
section. If some such standard were given in our fruit schedules it would 
be better than leaving everyone to make their own standards.”] 
LILIUM CANDIDUM IN WINTER AND SUMMER. 
Some years ago I pointed out in these pages the value of this Lily for 
pot culture, and was pleased to observe Mr. Young’s communication on 
the subject. When this variety is grown in pots and forced into flower 
early in the season and kept for a time indoor*, afterwards carefully 
treated, it will commence throwing up again in autumn, and frequently 
