98 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 30, 1883 
of the leaves—in other words, to a process by which heat is converted into 
work, and hence the coolness. 
Herr Woeikof then endeavours to ascertain the influence of forests on 
the climatic conditions of their neighbourhoods in the western parts of 
the Old World, between the 38th and 52nd degrees N. latitude, the places 
selected being in all cases in the open. Thus for the 52nd degree eight 
stations are taken between Valentia in Ireland on the west and the Kirghiz 
steppes on the east; for the 50th, Guernsey on the west, Semipalatinsk on 
the east, and thirteen stations, and so on for each two degrees of latitude 
to 38°. The general result of the observations in fifty stations in six 
different degrees of latitude is that in Western Europe and Asia large 
forests have a great influence on the temperature of places near them, and 
that by their influence the normal increase of temperature as we travel 
eastward from the Atlantic Ocean to the interior of the continent is not 
merely interrupted, but they give places far removed from the coast a 
cooler summer than those actually on the sea. A striking example of 
this is Bosnia. An examination of the statistics shows—i, That in Bosnia 
the summer is 2 5° to 4-5° cooler than in Herzegovina; 2, Even on the 
island of Lissa, in the full influence of the Adriatic Sea, the summer tem¬ 
perature is more than a degree higher than that of Bosnia, which is sepa¬ 
rated by lofty mountain ranges from the sea. Bosnia owes this compara¬ 
tively cool summer to its great forests, whilst Herzegovina is almost 
disafforested. To sum up : forests exercise an influence on climate whieh 
does not cease on their borders, but extends over a larger or smaller 
adjacent region according to the size, kind, and position of forest. Hence 
man by afforestation and disafforestation can modify the climate around 
him ; but it is an extreme position to hold that by afforestation the waste 
places of the earth can be made fertile. There are places incapable of 
being afforested, which would not give the necessary nourishment to 
trees.— {Nature.) 
HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITIONS. 
The following list of Shows, with the dates, may possibly be useful for 
reference. 
August 1.—Liverpool (two days). 
„ 1.—Southampton (two days). 
„ 2.—Antwerp Exhibition of Plants (five days). 
„ S.—Northampton. 
„ 11.—Royal Horticultural Society (plants and flowers). 
„ 18.—Basingstoke. 
„ 19.—Shrewsbury (two days). 
„ 20.—Salisbury. 
„ 21.—Exeter. 
„ 25.—Royal Horticultural Society (Cottagers’ show). 
„ 27.—Ludlow. 
„ 27.—Reading. 
Sept. 2.—Glasgow. 
„ 8.—Abingdon. 
„ 4.—Crystal Palaoe (Fruit and Dahlias), (two days). 
,, 8 . —Royal Horticultural Society (Dahlias and Grapes). 
„ 9.—Edinburgh (two days). 
„ 9.—Northampton (two days). 
„ 27.—Antwerp (fruit and vegetables), (three days). 
„ 29.—Aberdeen. 
„ 80.—Oxford. 
Oct. 7.—Crystal Palace (fruit and Potatoes), 
„ IS.—Royal Horticultural Society (fruit and vegetables). 
„ 27.—Royal Horticultural Society (Chrysanthemums and vegetables). 
W05K.Foij.THE WE EK,. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Cucumbers —The beginning of August and again at the end of that 
month are good times to make a sowing of Cucumber seed for raising 
plants to afford a supply of fruit in winter. We have tried almost every 
kind, but have found none to excel a true stock of Rollisson’s Telegraph, 
possessing, as it does, a good hardy constitution, and producing an 
abundance of handsome and useful-sized fruit. The seed may be sown 
singly in 3-inch pots in light soil, and plunged in a frame where there is 
a little bottom heat. Shift the plants as they require more room at the 
roots into larger pots until they are planted out, not allowing them to 
become badly pot-bound. Put small sticks to the plants when sufficiently 
grown to require supports, and secure with matting, leaving plenty of 
room in the ligatures for the swelling of the stems. Syringe the plants 
twice a day, and close from 3 to 4 P.M.; but the time of putting on 
and taking off air must be regulated by the weather and the circum¬ 
stances of each particular house as to aspect, construction, and other 
conditions. The chief thing is to secure a sturdy plant, with its growth 
thoroughly solidified bv plenty of light and the needful ventilation. It is 
useless to expect a full supply of fiuit in winter from plants that are 
drawn and have flabby foliage, but vigorous healthy plants will give good 
produce whether grown in pots, boxes, or in beds with hot water or 
other means of affording bottom heat. Attend to the usual thinning, 
stopping, and regulating the growths of plants in bearing, encouraging a 
clean growth, avoiding overcrowding and overcropping. All fruits fit 
for table should be cut forthwith, and not be allowed to hang 
for days afterwards—spoiling the fruit and wasting the energies of the 
plants. 
Melons. —The earthing-up of la’e plants should be completed without 
much further delay, and in doing so let the soil be trodden down firmly 
all over the surface of the bel, after which the plants should have their 
growths re-arranged, the shoots and laterals thinned, and the blossoms 
impregnated when the pollen is dry, stopping at the same time one joint 
beyond the fruit. In ordinary seasons artificial impregnation is not 
necessary, as the bees will do it effectually, but in case of dull weather it 
will be advisable to resort to it in order to make sure of a good set. 
Plants swelling their fruit will need the supports put to them in good 
time. These supports should be suspended in a sloping position to prevent 
the lodgment of water upon them. 
In houses in which plants are swelling their fruits maintain a mode¬ 
rately brisk growing: temperature of from 75° to 80° by day from fire heat, 
increasing 10° to 15° with sun, and 7©° at night. In structures where the 
fruit is approaching maturity let there be a decrease in the atmospheric 
moisture, which will be readily effected by an increase of ventilation. In 
pits and frames where the fruits have set too thickly thin them out to four 
or five to a plant, according to the strength of the plants, as soon as it 
can be seen which are going to swell. Select the most evenly-shaped 
frnits, which should be regularly distributed over the plants, thereby 
causing an equalisation in the flow and concentration of the sap at regular 
distances from the stem. Examine the soil in every stage of growth at 
least twice a week, giving a good supply of water when necessary, but be 
careful not to apply it unless required. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Trees in mid-season and late houses will 
require frequent and careful attention to thinning and regulating the 
summer growth, which should be laid in so thin that the foliage has full 
exposure to light and air. Stop all gross growths, or remove them if 
likely to interfere with the equalisation of the sap or are likely to over¬ 
crowd, endeavouring to maintain an even balance of moderately strong 
wood that will ripen well, as a well plumped bud, a perfect blossom and a 
good set of fruit cannot be expected from badly ripened wood. Syringe the 
trees thoroughly so as to dislodge any spider that may have obtained a 
footing on the leaves. If this is done effectually twice a day it ought 
to keep down this and other pests. If not, an insecticide must be brought 
into requisition promptly. Syringing must of course cease when the 
fruit begins to ripen, but a good moisture should be maintained by damp¬ 
ing available surfaces, and the ventilation should be freer, leaving some air 
on constantly. Inside borders must be well supplied with water passing 
through a mulching of decayed manure, and outside borders must be well 
cared for, giving liquid manure if necessary, in any case maintaining a 
moist condition of the soil, so as to sustain a healthy growth. Early 
houses that have not been stripped of the roof lights will need all the air 
possible, and must have the foliage kept clean by syringing or otherwise 
applying an insecticide. The borders must also be kept in a proper con¬ 
dition as to moisture, and in the case of weakly trees some liquid manure 
will assist them to form perfect embryo buds and encourage root-action, 
laying the foundation of a strong bloom and a good set another season. 
Whatever is contemplated in the matter of renovating the borders, lifting 
and relaying the roots in fresh material should be made preparation for 
betimes, so that there may be no delay when the work is taken in hand, 
as its success depends on its being done carefully, judiciously, and with 
dispatch. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Lilium. longiflorum .—This is a charming dwarf-growing Lily, and in 
many respects is equal to L. candidum, if it does not surpass that useful 
variety for various forms of decoration. It is very cheap, increases rapidly, 
and can be grown to perfection in much smaller pots than L. candidum, 
which adds much to its value for decoration. Well-developed plants in 4 and 
5-inch pots, with from two to four or more of its large pure white trumpet¬ 
shaped flowers, are very effective when arranged amongst other 
plants with its flowers rising well above them. This variety will also 
flower a second time. Very frequently early-forced plants throw up from 
the base and commence flowering again in autumn, and will continue to 
do so more or less during the winter if kept in a temperature not lower 
than 50°. Our latest batch are just over, and will be plunged outside 
until the approach of frost, when they will have the protection of a cold 
frame during the winter. Lilies should never be allowed to become dust- 
dry in any state ; on the other hand, they must not be saturated with 
water, or their roots will perish. More Lilies are ruined by diying them 
off and saturating them with water than from all other causes put 
together. Those that flowered early may now be repotted if they need it; 
if not, top-dress with rich material. Iti any case they should be turned 
out of their pots and the drainage examined, for good and efficient 
drainage is one of the principal items in the successful cultivation of 
these charming bulbs. The variety under notice bears dividing just as it 
is starting into growth without the slightest injury. The only attention 
needed after disturbing the roots is to keep the plants close in a frame for 
a fortnight or three weeks until they commence to root afresh. Those 
anxious to cultivate this Lily in pots will be able to obtain good bulbs 
early in tbe month of October. 
Lilium Ilarrisi .—This is undoubtedly a variety of the preceding, 
and in some respects slightly superior. It can be readily distinguished 
from L. longiflorum by its more slender growth and deeper shade of 
green, the leaves being a little longer, not so broad, but more pointed. 
The flower is longer in the tube and recurves its petals more, but in other 
respects it is about the same size. It is a few days later coming into 
flower, and is not more floriferous than L. longiflorum. Though the two 
