100 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July SO, 1885. 
prominent members of the British Bee-keepers’ Associa'ion say they would 
burn every one in the country. I would not simply give it a place in the 
apiary, but I would place it first. I do not prefer the large Pettigrew 
skep nor those little Pagden ones, but one which will throw a 4-lb. swarm. 
Here is a nut for the “ advanced ” bee-keepers to crack. Take two stocks 
in the autumn in equal conditions as regards food (18 lbs. of honey) and bees, 
one in a skep under a shed or covered with a hackle, and the other in the 
most improved double-walled-cork-dust-packed hive. The skep will 
throw a swarm in the spring, and if hived on half sheets of foundation 
will yield a crop of surplus honey, and itself throw a swarm before the 
other stock is ready to swarm ; thus we have a skep stock extra containing 
a young queen which will do the same year after year. The problem now 
is, not how much honey can be got from any one stock regardless of cost, 
but rather how much profit, and to do this stocks must be kept and 
wintered in skeps and the swarms put in frame hives, and then during 
the last harvest united together or sold off to bee-keepers in the Heather 
districts, extract the honey from the frames, and preserve them ready for 
the swarms the following summer. A word here about extracted honey. 
“ A. L. B. K.” says brood combs spoil the flavour of extracted honey; 
perhaps so to some palates, though I have not been able to detect any 
difference, but should not this enhance the value of super honey, which 
should also be superior to good cheap wholesome extracted honey ?—A 
Hallamshire Bee-keeper. 
BEES STINGING WHEN REMOVING SUPERS. 
“Basil” wishes information how to prevent being stung when 
manipulating bees. There are many things to be observed which the 
bee-keeper ought to be cognisant of before he can expect to be successful 
in avoiding being stung when manipulating. The first thing of great 
importance is not to irritate the bees so that they will attack innocent 
people and children or animals of any kind. By paying particular 
attention to this the operator will in a great measure escape, but by 
donning the bee armour, thereby protecting himself, many others might be 
severely stung through his rash manipulation. 
The nature of bees under all circumstances should be studied, so that 
the bee-keeper may know by a glance at their movements and sound of 
the bees the temper they are in, then he will know bow to proceed. These 
things can only be learned by experience, but there are certain rules 
which must be observed. First, Bees do not sting readily when their 
honey sacs are full, hence they may be manipulated with safety when the 
income of honey is great. Second, Empty honey sacs and cold weather 
have the opposite effect. Third, Be steady in all movements; a very little 
jar or nervous twitch will send the bees in your face in a second, while 
a heavy rap or firm shake will keep them quiet. Fourth, Have no loose 
cloth, such as baggy sleeves, this irritates the bees. Veils when used 
should be free from this. The most perfect one I have used is the German 
mask, sold by Messrs. G. Neighbour & Sons. It keeps firm and steady, 
unlike most others, which are part wire and part cloth. The mask should 
be lined to suit the head and keep it cool. A good operator on bees 
generally is most successful without any armour, having his shirt-sleeves 
rolled up, because, as I have stated, bees dislike loose cloth about the 
person. I have my vests made with light sleeves buttoning close at the 
wrists, then a pair of glazed lining cuffs, mounted with elastic at both 
ends, which keeps all close, the hose drawn over trouser-legs, and the 
pockets guarded. A pair of indiarubber gloves, sold by the aforesaid 
firm, is as good armour ; but gloves prevent successful manipulation, and 
bees lose their stings in them, irritating others. Fifth, Never leave a hive 
once begun until finished, and never two at the same time. Sixth, Always 
work from behind the hive, and never uncover the whole of the super or 
crown of the hive at once. Seventh, Never allow any scent about the 
person, or act so as to irritate the bees. Remember they are the flying 
bees that attack, so be careful not to cause them to take wing. Seventh, 
The introduction of foreign varieties make manipulation not only difficult 
but dangerous, so that many tempers of the kinds have to be studied. 
My experience with Syrians will be given soon, which seem very partial 
to having their own way, and dangerous bees if mismanaged. Carniolians, 
on the other hand, are not only great honey gatherers, but the pure race 
can be handled with safety under very ill-treatment; while these bees 
exist timid bee-keepers need not be afraid to keep them. Eighth, Sprink¬ 
ling bees well with diluted honey or tepid water will quiet them, but 
this is not required when they are getting honey, and is liable to cause 
fighting when there is none. 
I have just been removing some supers without getting a single sting, 
and unveiled. It is the first really warm day we have had in July. I 
removed all wrappings, these being many, perhaps six times more than 
most people use, that and clean supers being the chief causes of pure and 
well-filled combs. There is as yet no escape of bees, because I cover all 
supers with a piece of white calico before removing it, and pass a cord 
between the top of the hive and super to sever, if any, the comb attached 
to top of hive ; but this is so rare when the hive3 are wrought as I have 
advised, that as a rule they maybe lifted off without this precaution. For 
regularity and finish of comb I cannot conceive why people will employ 
separators in their supers. When the cord has been passed through (my 
cords are smeared a little with crude carbolic acid of the full strength) I 
turn up the calico, exposing one opening only, insert a sheet, then repeat 
till all are done. Whether the weather is cold or warm by the time the 
papers are withdrawn the super is emptied of bees and ready for lifting. 
An empty super is at hand to take the place of the one removed, and 
covered until either filled or the bees have settled and retreated down, 
when all should be removed and covered for winter. 
Frames should be operated in a similar fashion. Should the bees by 
any unavoidable cause become irritated smear the entrance with carbolic 
acid, and frequent them often, so that they may be reconciled. Never 
leave a hive unsubdued or serious consequences will follow. If my 
suggestions fail close the hive entirely and drum on it for some time. 
They will fill their sacs and become docile. Let all manipulations, be 
done quickly, and never expose a hive long. By attending to these hints 
and studying the natures of the different sorts of bees success is certain. 
Useful hints weekly lose much of their value owing to our variable 
climate. It is far better to read and note carefully the general directions 
given in this Journal, the mother of all others ; then, as the season comes 
round, the greatest tyro cannot fail to know what to do. I will not fail 
to give useful hints weekly or monthly, but just as I make up my mind to 
do something to or for my bees the weather changes, and I have to change 
my plans. Useful hints given regularly and acted upon in that fashion 
would in all likelihood lead beginners into a difficulty. Answers to cor¬ 
respondents would, I think, do more good and be more satisfactory. Here 
are several hints that no one will be misled by—viz., to those who find 
moths an enemy. Set traps about the hive. Match boxes filled with 
some comb will attract the moths ; eggs will be laid in them, which can be 
destroyed at will. Drono comb in the centre of the hive causes the queen 
to be deposed sometimes in spring, and is a serious drawback to have 
many drones coming forward at a time when worker bees are most needed. 
Remove all such surplus drone comb and have the space filled with 
worker comb at once. Wherever the combs are black, remove these and 
insert foundation and get white comb made. Bees are healthier and breed 
better in new combs than in old ones. All hives not yet provided with a 
young queen should have one without delay. Be sure that all hives are 
well provided for, sufficient to last them till May, covering carefully now, 
and molest them no more until the spring, when the floors require clean¬ 
ing. Where the solid floor is in use a ventilating one should take its 
place. 
I used to keep the front of my hives clear of all vegetation. Neglect 
has allowed the Arabia to cover close up to some. It is a capital door 
mat for bees, always of a warmish and rough nature ; the bees can rest 
on and rise easily from it. Those hives intended for the Heather, if heavy, 
should have the weightiest combs removed and filled with brood combs 
from other hives (intended for that purpose) put in their place. Surplus 
bees should be joined so as to form strong stocks. Thorough ventilation 
should be provided.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor ’’ 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Propagating Eclieverias (C. T. IT .).—Both these plants and Pachypby- 
tons, also Kleinias, are readily increased from leaves. The larger of these 
should be taken off quite close to the stem, and left an hour oi* two for the 
wounds to dry, then inserted as lighly as possible in a layer of sand spread 
over free well-drained soil in pots and boxes. It is well to water this 
before inserting the leaves, then, when the surface has dried somewhat but 
still damp, press the base of each in the sand, but very slightly, standing 
the pots or boxes on a shelf in a greenhouse. In dull weather no water will 
be needed, but it must be given occasionally in hot dry weather. There is 
greater danger, however, in over than in under watering, and after giving 
water you may sprinkle on some dry sand. If rightly managed a bud will 
form near the base of each leaf, which will develope into a plant. In dull 
weather, and where the house is slightly damp, we have seen hundreds of 
young plants raised by resting the ends of the leaves on the soil, and in no 
case must they be inserted deeply, or they will decay. You had better try 
both methods, and with care in watering you will succeed in your object. 
The present is the time for the work. 
Supporting Tuberous Begonias (C. D .).—We are glad to learn our 
advice has proved so satisfactory; but credit rests with yourself for carrying 
out our instructions intelligently, as exactly the same information has been 
given to others, who have failed in their object. The main point now the 
pots are filled with roots is never to let the soil get dry before water is 
given, and liquid manure, of the colour of ale, will give all the support that 
is needed. It may be made from cow dung or sheep dung mixed and given 
at ouce; or of soot, a portion being tied up in a piece of canvas, and 
