122 
r JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 6, 1885. 
a prospect of its continuance. It will not be advisable to continue i 
syringing ; indeed, it cannot be practised over the fruit when it is ripening I 
without considerable risk of damaging it, causing it to crack, and im¬ 
pairing its flavour; but the air should be kept reasonably moist by 
syringing available surfaces, at the same time ventilating judiciously; 
also moderate the supply of tepid liquid to the roots. All the side shoots 
should now be clotely stopped, so as to admit of a free circulation of air, 
and next year’s fruiting wood must be thoroughly ripened before the 
trees go to rest. Under ordinary circumstances the trees should be in a 
fit condition for the removal of the roof lights early in September. 
Succession Houses .—Trees from which a second crop is to be gathered 
will require fire heat, with a little air at night to prevent the atmosphere 
becoming stagnant, regulating the supply of moisture by the weather, 
the density of the foliage, and the situation of the house. In low 
situations and on cold heavy soils it is advisable to train in wood thinly, 
and to use water sparingly in dull periods, making up for quantity by 
improving the quality of the stimulating matter supplied to the roots, 
which ought to be entirely inside. In elevated sites, where there is the 
advantage of light and a dry atmosphere, water may be more freely used, 
but in the most favoured situations the heat and moisture must be so 
regulated by circumstances so as to secure the main point ia successful 
Fig culture—viz., firm, short-join ted, and thoroughly ripened wood. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The runners that were layered in small 
pots some time ago and duly attended to with water will be well rooted, 
and, being detached and stood on the north side of a wall for a few days, 
should be potted into the fruiting pots without much further delay. 
A selection shoul 1 be made of the plants, placing the stronger into 
6-inch, whilst those that are less vigorous may have 6-inch pots. 
The compost most suitable is good turfy loam, with a fifth of well- 
decayed manure added, though we prefer to stack the manure with 
the loam from three to six months, and then chop down from one 
end, making moderately fine. Under ordinary circumstances it is in good 
potting condition, but if wet weather prevail it may be necessary to have 
it under cover for a few days, so as to part with any excess of moisture, 
as it is necessary the soil be in a condition to admit of being rammed 
firmly in the pots. To every barrowful of tho loam we add a quart of 
soot, a similar quantity of Clay’s or Beeson’s manure, or about a quart of 
the mixture per bushel of loam, and incorporate thoroughly. The pots 
should be well drained, and the plants kept rather high in preference to 
low in the centre of the pots, sufficient space being allowed for watering. 
We prefer the space for a 6-inch pot to be about three-quarters of an inch, 
and to mulch the surface with some fresh horse droppings rubbed through 
the hands, which keeps the soil from leaving the sides of the pots, and 
encourages surface roots. 
The plants after potting should be on a hard bottom, impervious to 
worms, aud though they may be placed somewhat close in the first 
instance, they must be given space eo as to allow for the full development of 
the foliage from a'l points. In addition to never being allowed to want 
for water at the roots, the plants may be sprinkled in the evening of hot 
days. It ought never to be lost sight of that the Strawberry delights in 
nothing so much as a cool moist condition at the roots, but it is equally 
necessary to bear in mind that if the plants are not to suffer by lack of 
water that a supply can be of no use when the soil is saturated, and ought 
not to be given until it becomes necessary. 
Another important matter is to keep the foliage free from weeds, and 
never allow a runner to show without pinching it off. Another matter 
too often considered unimportant is to keep the plants to single crowns, 
which is particularly valuable in the case of plants for early work, as it 
hastens their development as compared with those that are permitted to 
form as many crowns as they will. Some kinds are not much given to 
form a number of crowns, amongst which may be instanced La Grosse 
Sucrfie, Pauline, Sir Harry, President, Dr. Hogg, and Cockscomb, but 
even those form finer centre crowns when (he sides ones are rubbed off 
directly they form. On the other hand, Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury, 
Keen’s Seedling, Mr. Radclyffe, and Sir Charles Napier are liable to send 
up clusters of crowns, and it follows that when only one is taken the 
flower spikes are less numerous but very much stronger, and the flowers 
are consequently finer—the foundation of large fruits, which set well, 
swell off well, and finish handsomely. There may not be much difference 
between a plant carrying a dozen or more fruits in the weight collectively, 
but there is a great difference when we get the same weight in four to 
six fruits on another plant, not only in appearance but in quality, for a 
forced Strawberry is nothing unless it be large, of even shape and good in 
colour—a glowing red. Six-inch pots are suitable for all-round work, but 
for late work and strong growers they may have an inch larger size of 
pot. Besides keeping the plants free from aphides and red spider, a sha r p 
look out should_be kept for caterpillars. v 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums .—Plants in from 3 to 6-inch pots are very useful 
for furnishing purposes during autumn and winter. To have these in 
really good condition strong cuttings from the tops of shoots that have 
been allowed to grow without stopping for some time should be selected 
and inserted at once. Good cuttings will be plentiful if previous directions 
have been carried out. The large-flowering kinds, such as Elaine, Jgmes 
Salter, Peter the Great, Queen of England, Jardin des Plantes, Princess 
of Teck, and others should be inserted singly in the smallest size pots, 
placing a little sand in the centre of the pot for the base of the cutting to 
rest upon. Pompon and small-flowering varieties should he inserted, a 
number together, in 6 or 6-inch pots. Some of these are remarkably fine 
in small pots if allowed to grow and branch into three 6hoots, carrying 
one flower on the end of each. These plants will do this without stopping, 
for soon after they are rooted they will produce a crown bud and then 
branch into three shoots from below, the crown buds being removed. 
Those inserted together in larger pots should be allowed to grow 
naturally without stopping or disbudding. The large-flowering kinds in 
small pots are allowed to carry only one bloom, and the crown bud pro¬ 
duced is in most cases selected, except when it is necessary to make the 
early-flowering varieties a little later ; such, for instance, as James 
Salter, Elaine, and Early Red Dragon have the crown buds removed, and 
one of the growths that starts from the base is allowed to grow and the 
flower is taken from the end of it, all other flower buds that surround it 
being removed. It is surprising how beautiful these miniature plants are, 
carrying one good bloom each, when elevated above other flowering 
plants, for they can be u-:ei where it is impossible to use plants in larger 
pots. The cuttings will root freely in a cold frame in any position where 
the sun cannot strike upon them. They should be well watered after 
insertion, and the frame kept close. Directly they are rooted they 
must be gradually Jhirdened and stood outside with the rest of the 
stock, being careful that they are kept well watered at their roots. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—All plants intended for winter flowering must 
be outside in a sunny position to ripen and harden their wood, tor this 
is the secret of their abundance of flowers through the whole of the 
winter. The only attention necessary while they are outside is pinch¬ 
ing the shoots, removing flowers and dead leaves, besides supplying 
them liberally with water and weak stimulants when the pots are full 
of roots. A good batch of cuttings rooted now in 2 and 3-inch pota 
will be useful where quantities of plants are required in a small 
state for furnishing rooms. They should remain in the pots in which 
they are rooted, and are very handsome with one or two trusses on each 
for association with small Ferns, Mosses, Crotons, Roman Hyacinths, 
and other plants that may be employed. Free-flowering sorts only 
should be used, the semi-doubles lasting better for this purpose than the 
singles. Wonderful and Madame Thibaut are two of the most useful 
varieties. After the plants are rooted they may stand outside until the 
autumn. A good batch of both singles and doubles should now be 
rooted for early flowering in spring. As soon as these are rooted they 
must be pinched and placed into 4-inch pots, in which they will be 
wintered close to the glass. These if well looked after will be hardy, 
sturdy specimens, ready for 6-inch pots at the turn of the year. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums .—The earliest cuttings will now be 
rooted, and should have their points taken out; as soon a3 they have 
broken again into growth they should be transferred into 4-inch pots and 
grown in a cold frame with abundance of air until autumn. Good loam, 
one-seventh of manure and sand, will suit these plants, and if pressed 
firmly into the pots will insure dwarf sturdy growth. The shoots should 
be pinched until the end of September, but not afterwards, if required 
to flower as early as possible. It is a good plan when housing them 
to place them in their flowering pots, if ready, as they then become 
established before the winter. Old plants from which these cuttings 
were taken should now be pruned close back and placed in a cold frame, 
where they can be kept well syringed and close until they break again 
into growth, when they may be turned out, the old balls reduced, and 
the plants repotted into smaller pots. After potting, the frame should 
be kept close for ten days or a fortnight, and the plants watered with 
great care. If possible, the soil should be kept moist by syringing until 
root-action has well commenced. All late batches as they cease flowering 
should be well ripened by placing them in a sunny position outside, 
keeping them on the dry side until the wcod is hard and firm, when they 
may be pruned back and treated as advised above. 
Lilium candidum .—This is, perhaps, the best of all Lilies for culti¬ 
vation in pots, as it can be trained to develope its pearly white fragrant 
flowers at Christmas and in succession until they can be had outside 
during the month of July. Those anxious to grow this Lily in pots should 
purchase at once, for imported bulbs can always be had by the middle of 
July or a week later. We have had many of these bulbs, and have always 
found them start into growth freely and do well even the first season. 
The bulbs should be potted into 6 or 7-inch pots, according to 
their size, in a compost of loam, one-seventh of decayed manure, 
and a little sand. After potting they should be stood in a frame, 
and the pots covered with about 2 inches of fine coal ashes, 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or similar material, and the frame shaded until 
they push their leaves through. Water will not then be needed until a 
good quantity of roots has been formed. Plenty of air should be given 
as soon as growth is visible, and when it is fairly developed the pots can 
be plunged outside until the approach of trost. They can be allowed to 
remain in a cold frame until the turn of the new year, when tney may be 
started into growth in a vinery or Peach bouse just started. 
If wanted in flower as early as possible give greenhouse treatment, 
and no lower tempera ure at night than 45°, and the flower spikes will, 
soon commence to push; in fact, they will continue to grow slowly all 
the winter. After the new year they will come forward rapidly in an 
' intermediate temperature, where a good circulation of air can be main¬ 
tained. Plants treated as described will flower towards the end of March, 
and if kept indoors after blooming until the weather is sufficiently genial 
to turn them outside, they will flower again about Christmas. Soon after 
flowering new growth at the base will be visible, when the old stem may 
be removed, and the plants either potted without disturbing their roots, or 
top-dressed with rich material and fed afterwards with weak stimulants 
or two or three applications of artificial manure. By care and good 
attention after flowering, with rich top-dressings and repotting occasion¬ 
ally, this Lily may be kept in perfect health in pots for many years. 
