Avgust 6, 1985. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
128 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Budding Boses .—The month of August we consider quite early enough 
for budding these, as we prefer that the buds should lie dormant till the 
following spring, when they make much stronger growth than they 
usually do when they have formed a shoot the same summer they are 
inserted. The common Briar or Dog Rose is still the stock most generally 
relied upon, and it is as well adapted for dwarfs as standards. During 
showery seasons the operation of budding is a simple one, the beginner 
oftentimes being as successful as an expert, but the case will be very 
different this summer, as buds will not “ run ” freely, neither will the 
Briar shoots “open” properly. In order to improve both the buds and 
the stocks, the plants from which the former are to be taken, as well as 
the stocks, should receive several soakings of water, budding not being 
attempted till it is found that the sap is risen in each case. Unless this 
is done the success will be very doubtful. Those who are unable to get 
any good buds from their own stock of Roses can procure them at a cheap 
Tate from various nurserymen. The shoots with the buds attached should 
be packed in moistened moss, and ought never to become dry from the 
time they are cut, or the buds will not separate from the wood. We like 
to insert the buds as close to the stems < f the Briars as possible, and they 
then soon become very firmly attached to the stems. The buds should 
also be closely shaded till they are attached to tbe wood of the stock. 
Layering Carnations and Pieotees .—No time should be lost in com¬ 
pleting this work, layering being the best way of procuring strong young 
plaots for flowering next season. Tbe soil around the old plants should 
be loosened, a good soaking c f water be giveD, a few hours after which a 
liberal dressing of sandy or gritty soil should be stirred into the surface. 
Trim off the lower leaves of the shoots to be layered, next cut the stems 
half through with a sharp knife immediately under a joint, and after 
cutting upwards through the joint, peg them down firmly into the soil. 
Should the present hot weather continue it is advisable to lightly shade 
the beds or single plants with branches of trees, and occasional waterings 
through a fine-rose pot will also benefit them, the layered pieces not to be 
separated from the old plants till well rooted, when the choicest of them 
may be potted and wintered in frames, and the remainder planted out 
where they are to flower next season. 
Spring-tedding Plants. —These are making very poor progress, and 
many that have been freely divided are in a poor plight. Wallflowers, 
Sweet Williams, and Stocks are, if not pricked out, spoilinr. The dri; st 
of plots may, if watered freely overnight, be finely broken down the next 
morning, and if the seed beds are also well soaked with water the plants 
may be lifted readily. After they are firmly dibbled out they should be 
watered in, and then shaded with branches of evergreens or other trees. 
This with light waterings in the evening will keep them alive, and directly 
growing weather is experienced the plants will make rapid progress. 
Seedliog plants of Campanulas of sorts must also be attended to, or they 
will not become strong enough to flower well next season. Many of them 
have been very beautiful this year, but the old plants, if preserved, rarely 
flower well the following season. Polyanthuses, Primroses, Daisies, 
Arabises, Alyssums, and other somewhat similar bedding plants that have 
been divided and replanted will require to be watered occasionally, and if 
in a hot position should also be temporarily shaded. The middle of 
August is quite early enough for sowing the seeds of such spring flower¬ 
ing annuals as Alyssum maritimum, Collinsia grandiflora, Lasthenia 
californica, Limnanthes Douglassi, Saponaria calabrica, Virginian Stocks, 
and in warm localities a week later would do. Silene pendula and the 
white variety should be sown on an open border at once, as these do not 
grow so rapidly as the above-named sorts. 
Violets .—The hot weather has greatly interfered with the growth of 
these, and unless red spider is checked and free growth encouraged the 
flowering crowns will be very weak. The surface of the beds should be 
stirred with a Dutch hoe, and a gcol watering given, this being supple¬ 
mented with a mulching of short manure or leaf soil, and nightly 
sprinklings will further assist them. 
Lanins .—But little mowing is now needed, and in all cases it is best to 
do this without the receiving box being attached to the machine. Newly 
laid turf will be cracking very badly, and should have, if possible, a 
thorough soaking with water, followed with a top-dressing of fine soil, 
much of which may be worked into the cracks. This will serve to keep 
tbe grass alive, and when rainy weather sets in the turf will soon present 
a much better appearance. 
5 ? 
aSsi 
HE BEE-KEEPER 
m 
A WORD IN SEASON. 
Honey is now abundant in every pasture field. Tbe 
thousands of heads of delicate White Clover and the eweet- 
scented Lime betoken a glorious time for the bees; but, and no 
pleasure is without its alloy, unless bees are taken to the Heather 
—the thought is often in my mind that each day is surely bring¬ 
ing the season to an end, and that by the 1st August in all 
probability there will be but little work to engage the attention 
of the bees beyond preparing their hives for another winter’s 
storms. I, too, begin to meditate over the most desirable way 
to proceed in order to obtain for another year stocks of superior 
strength to take advantage of the earliest flow of honey in the 
spring of the year 1886. 
Generally speaking, there is no department in apiculture so 
little attended to and so much overlooked as this, one of the 
most important factors conducing to future success, the setting 
aside of the most fitting and strongest both in honey and in 
numbers, of the stocks to stand the winter and form the apiary. 
There are many different modes of management in order to 
ensure strong stocks in early spring, but probably nine out of 
ten bee-keepers will find the best and most expeditious way to 
be one of the two here given. In early September, if the bees are 
in large hives, add to each at least 5 lbs. of bees, and leave honey 
sufficient to last until the end of April without extraneous help, 
say 30 lbs. If there is not this weight of honey in each stock, a 
syrup made of sugar and water in the proportion of 3 lbs. of 
sugar to 2 lbs. of water, will prove just as serviceable. Such 
stocks strengthened by so numerous an addition with stores in 
abundance need only to be kept free from damp, and the severest 
winter of our climate may be looked forward to without any 
misgiving, and without much attention beyond when snow is 
upon the ground, either shading the entrances or closing them 
altogether with a slide of perforated zinc. Can any plan be 
simpler than the one above described ? There need be no 
trouble about the queens, for the rule of the survival of the 
fittest will leave, in nine cases out of ten, the stronger queen 
and the one possessing the greater vitality at the head of the 
stock. 
This plan, however, is not the one I generally follow, for to 
me the more profitable mode of procedure seems to be this, the 
second system. Early in August, the earlier the better after the 
honey season is at an end, drive the bees out of all the hives and 
join two lots together, always uniting those contiguous to one 
another. Where this system is pursued two hives are always 
placed side by side at swarming time in order to facilitate union. 
In the course, then, of the next three weeks give each hive 60 lbs. 
of syrup made of sugar and water in the above proportions. 
What is the result ? A margin of profit for the honey, after the 
expense of the sugar has been met, taken from the old hive, 
stocks filled with new sweet comb with plenteous stores and 
cells all ready in the spring for the great number of eggs then 
deposited, and a sufficiency of pollen to last until the new supply 
begins, and a considerable batch of young bees to live till early 
summer. The advantages of the system are, I maintain, that all 
the honey in the hives that have stood the summer is ready for 
sale; if foul brood cells existed they are destroyed; if pollen- 
bound the cells are useless, and therefore the new ones are an 
advantage, and if the wax moth has gained an entrance her 
larvee are prevented from mining the stock. What can be urged 
against the plan? Well, I only know one, and that is that 
Dz’erzon says that stocks do not winter so well ini new comb 
because the older is warmer and more comfortable. I am con¬ 
vinced that in England such stocks can be wintered without 
misgiving. Let each one try a single stock this year for himself, 
the result will be quite satisfactory. 
I must conclude by asking those who do try this system to 
give it a fair trial, carrying out the instructions in full, letting 
each hive, if a large one, have at least 8 or 10 lbs. of bees, and 
taking three weeks to give them the requisite amount of syrup. 
If anyone then fails—but they won’t.— Felix. 
EXTRACTING HONEY. 
Since writing to you I hive read ycur article on taking off superri 
and I must say that I have succeeded admirably. I did not use the 
carbolicised paper rightly until your last remarks appeared, therefore 
my “wail” has changed with my success. I removed five 2lb. sections, 
and took off the frame of empty sections, and also removed two bars of 
honey from the body hive without getting a sting. I find, however, many 
young bees in an early Btage in most of tbe other frames—bottom part of 
the frames—and I thought it was wise not to extract until the young 
bees were matured. I put back an extracted frame next day, and found 
the bees were making wax on a frame of foundation and storing honey. 
There are now in that hive, I think, nine frames of honey and young 
bees. Will it kill the young ones to extract the honey ? How many bars 
(11^ inches long 9 inches deep) would you leave in for the winter ? Or 
would you extract all and give syrup ? I have ju9t examined the supers 
on the hive I told you I had not taken any sections from, and find the bees 
very busy, and one or two sections are being filled very nicely. I intended 
taking away the frame of sections to-day and extract all tbe honey I 
could, but as the bees were so busy, and young ones still in the frames, I 
desisted, and have done nothing to hinder their onward progress. I fancy 
the bees are busy on the second crop of Clover in the fields close by. 
Kindly inform me how many frames of honey to leave in the hive for 
winter, and any information you can give me respecting the final manipu¬ 
lation before winter will oblige. I cannot quite understand how the 
“ outside case ” is fastened to the hive which you so kindly described last 
