August 27,1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
175 
ductions, lias by the month of September covered every common 
and wild, every lane and roadside, and even the most barren 
moor with coarse herbage adapted to work up in this way. 
Moreover, the garden itself, with its appurtenances of hedge 
clippings and other coarse material, yields at this period an 
unusual amount capable of being made into a most useful com¬ 
ponent of a renewing compost. 
Let us, then, advise strongly that this principle be attended 
to, and at this season ; and that all weeds and rubbish be col¬ 
lected to one common spot, both to promote order and neatness 
and to augment the compost heap against the days of alterations 
and improvement. 
We must again revert to the subject of loamy materials. 
Loams are used in general to give stability and consistence to 
shingly and incoherent soils. Now, since what the gardener 
terms loam, or “ sound loam,” contains a considerable per¬ 
centage of clayey matter, it is evident that clay itself, or, 
what is better when procurab'e, marl, may be advantageously 
employed. 
In the improvement of the staple, then, of loose or sandy 
soils, there is no doubt that even clay will be beneficial, pro¬ 
vided it is laid on the land betimes in the autumn, and not 
blended with the soil until it has fallen to pi ces, which will 
be the case by the month of March if it is turned and worked 
occasionally. In making stations for fruit trees on such soils, 
we should unhesitatingly throw masses of clay in a raw state 
on the proposed platform, taking care to introduce weedy or 
vegetable matter liberally amongst it, for the two will act well 
together for years as a preventive against extreme droughts, 
which so frequently cause fruits of various kinds to crack, as also 
the trees to be devoured with the red spider and other insects. 
Let it be remembered, nevertheless, that we are speaking of dry 
and light soils only; to pursue such a course on cool soils would 
be a most unwise procedure. 
Marl, however, whether of the clay or slate kinds, is, of 
course, far superior to clay, but not everyone is fortunate 
enough to be situated in a marly neighbourhood. This may be 
blended liberally with all light or sandy materials for fruit tree 
stations, taking care that it is divided first, and adding vegetable 
matter freely. 
Before concluding these remarks, we may be permitted to 
turn our attention to the amateur’s Melons, Pines, Strawberries, 
and other fruits for forcing purposes. A good loam is almost 
indispensable for high culture in these fruits. Everyone should 
endeavour annually to procure a little fresh, for sometimes it 
becomes expedient to use it fresh, or to mix with other soil, as 
the case maybe. What are termed furrowing clods are excellent 
for mixing with vegetable matter ; and a stipulation may some¬ 
times be entered into with the farmer, who would exchange such 
for manure ; or they may sometimes be had for the labour neces¬ 
sary to procure them.—N. E. It. 
TOMATOES. 
The consumption of Tomatoes is rapidly increasing, thus 
showing that the public is gradually rightly estimating them at 
their true value, either as a vegetable or as dessert, and this 
induces me to give a few notes regarding them. 
Their culture is now generally understood, so that I shall 
only give a few observations on my own practice. The seed is 
sown thinly the first week in March when the late Vines are 
being started, then as soon as the seedlings can be handled we 
pot them in small 60’s, and subsequently into 48’s. Take care to 
let them have plenty of light and air, and strong plants will be 
easily obtained. I like plants from 9 to 12 inches high as thick 
as a finger, which require no stick or tying. Do not let young 
plants lose colour before putting them in their permanent 
quarters; loss of colour in foliage either means they are root- 
bound or not in a healthy condition, of course in hardening for 
outdoors this can scarcely be avoided. All my Tomatoes are 
fruiting in No. 4 or 6 pots, and as they mostly stand on hard ash 
paths the roots inside depend on what I give them, as supposing 
the roots find their way through into the ashes very little nutri¬ 
ment is to be found there. The simpler the compost until they 
set their first fruits the better, then feed them by top-dressing. 
In plantin' 1 only half fill the pots, gradually filling as they 
want it. Have the soil moderately firm, this acting two ways— 
first, insuring a much finer plant, and, secondly, taking less water. 
I take single stems up wdres 9 feet long, not having only this 
limited length I stop the plants about 3 feet high, then again at 
6 and at 9 feet. After first stopping, in addition to the leading 
shoot when it breaks, I let one or two laterals grow until they 
show their blooms, when they are stopped; by so doing an 
increased quantity of fruit is obtained. I take out all weak side 
shoots. 
This year the first blooms set very thinly, especially new 
varieties, but I always find the second year is better for new 
varieties; this is only, I suppose, because we know better how to 
treat them. For strong growing varieties cutting half the leaves 
helps the fruit considerably, but this operation requires care 
not to cut a large quantity away at one time, but a little daily. 
With many varieties it is as well to take the centre flower away, 
by so doing much finer fruits are obtained; generally the centre 
large flower comes to someth ng very large but misshapen, and 
this certainly weakens the remaining bunch. However successful 
the pot system is, I cannot get the fruits so large as when I could 
plant them out, but I get more even fruits. I object to planting 
out if there is a chance of Tomato roots running into Vine 
borders, as they must rob and injure the Vines. 
My own experience, together with that of several friends who 
grow for market, is, that however good and desirable the new 
varieties may be, there is nothing like a good selection of the 
Old Bed for profit. I say this without detracting in the least 
from the merits of the new, several of which are handsome 
varieties. 
Sutton’s Chiswick Red. —This is the best of all I grow in 
pots, having now bunches of twelve fruits hanging; it is a free 
setter and consequently prolific. The fruit is of fair size, of a 
good bright red, and in shape is certainly unique, being divided 
down the centre as though two fruits had been joined together. 
They come very true, not one or two good and the others indif¬ 
ferent. The only fault I have to mark is its light weight, and 
for its size it is very light. This is caused by its not being solid, 
but having a space between, or rather a cavity between the fruit- 
stalk and outer skin. 
Sutton’s Reading Perfection. —A good Tomato for 
flavour, shape, and size; growth very robust In pot culture 
this requires stopping directly the first blooms show. n a green 
state the fruit is a counterpart of Dedham Favourite for size 
and shape, but does not crack. This is a very solid fruit, a very 
great contrast to Chiswick Red. With me the crop is not very 
large, but I believe this is due to my not knowing its habit. 1 
shall expect better results another time. 
Sutton’s Conqueror —The seed from which I raised my 
plants were seven years old, showing that if seed is well managed 
it will keep a long time. I never wash the seeds, but simply put 
them on a damp flannel to clean them. This, a favourite variety 
of mine, is an enormous cropper, always sure, and very regular 
in shape ; the only objection I have to it is the flatness of the 
fruit. Anyone can grow this either in or outdoors. 
Dedham Favourite. —Another favourite of mine, at one 
time objected to on the score of cracking just when the fruit was 
at its best, but I have overcome this by arranging the plants 
where they can get plenty of air and light Judicious watering 
and ventilation are all that are required to grow it; neglect either, 
and the result is seen quickly. It is a good cropper, heavy, and 
of delicious flavour. 
Green Gage. —This should be named Yellow Gage; it is 
very pretty, of a brisk acid flavour for dessert, but very shy with 
me. Last year our Rec or had it much better growing against a 
wall outside Under my care it is very robust indeed in wood 
and foliage, but does not fruit accordingly. 1 am keeping one 
plant poor and short of water to see the result. 
Vick’s Criterion —A most abundant cropper, bearing 
egg or plum-shaped fruits of the same colour and quality as the 
preceding. Sometimes 1 find the clusters are apt to set three or 
four large fruits, the remainder being seedless or small. This, I 
believe, is for want of fertilising ; a sharp shake when the flowers 
are dry and fully expanded will help them. I consider this good 
for growing in pots. 
The Old Red. —I shall dismiss this in a very few words, as 
it is so well known and its culture is so simple that it must com¬ 
mend itself to all Tomato growers who wish to be sure of what 
they are doing should save seed of this variety. I have ceased 
growing the Trophy, but as a friend is now doing well with it I 
shall try it again. 
In enumerating the above varieties I do not say these are the 
only good ones, but they are the best I grow.— Stephen Castle, 
West Lynn. 
CHOICE ALPINE PLANTS. 
Saxifraga hirculus.— If we glance momentarily at the 
great genus Saxifrage we sLall soon be alive to the fact that the 
majority of the species and varieties of which it is compofed 
have, for the most part, white flowers. This is more especially 
the case with the mossy (hypnoides) section, and the crusta 
