194 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 27, 1835. 
the place of her more aged predecessor, there is perhaps 
more gain than loss. 
The plan of action when uniting two stocks is exactly 
similar, with the exception that one stock has first to be 
driven from its combs into an empty hive, the less time that 
elapses between the driving and uniting the more complete 
and certain will the success attending the operation be. To 
conclude, let me say that if it is preferred—and it is in many 
cases the wiser course—to simply return the second swarm, 
the plan of action is to hive the swarm in the usual manner, 
leaving it for a few hours, and then taking it and throwing it 
back upon the front of the hive from which it issued. This, 
too, rarely if ever fails ; but if next day the swarm should 
issue again the same operation should be repeated, and the 
result will be that the desire of the bee-master will most 
certainly be attained. These hints are given at the sugges¬ 
tion of a bee-keeper who does not always succeed in effecting 
happy unions ; but when he did attempt to unite according 
to his old plan there was often a massacre, ending in the 
almost total annihilation of the bees of both stocks. To 
some the plan here given may be of use, and if those who 
are already acquainted with good systems for effecting a like 
object look with contempt upon rules so often repeated and 
so well known to them, let them call to mind that when they 
were novices such hints were of good service to them in 
enabling them to become proficients in the art of bee-keeping. 
—Felix. 
FRAME HIVES v. SKEPS. 
In the Journal for Julv 30th “ A Hallamshire Bee-keeper ” makes the 
extraordinary statement that he would not simply give the skep a place in 
the apiary, but he would place it first. He then gives what he calls “a 
nut for advanced bee-keepers to crack.” Now, as I have kept bees in 
skeps for something like twenty years, and have discarded skeps in favour 
of frame hives for the last four or five years, I would like to ask him by 
what magic he will insure the skeps swarming and the swaim giving a 
maiden swarm after giving a “crop ” of surplus honey before the stock in 
a frame hive is ready to swarm. If the stock in the frame hive is pro¬ 
perly managed it will be quite ready for swarming by the middle of 
May, and in all probability the stock in the skep will not swarm before 
the 7th of the same month at the very earliest, and not more than 
one or two out of a dozen stocks will give swarms during the first half of 
May at all. “A Hallamshire Bee-keeper” also says that to get the most 
profit by bee-keeping “ strcks must he kept and wintered in skeps and the 
swarms put in frame hives.” What, may I ask, is to be gained by this 
except a lot of trouble and loss of time? as bees will winter at least as 
well in a frame hive as in any skep, or, if you like, Stewarton hive that 
has ever been made. It seems to me “ A Hallamshire Bee-keeper ” should 
learn to manage and winter bees in frame hives before attempting to 
instruct others ; this is easily done without any such absurdities as ven¬ 
tilating floors, so strongly recommended by “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper,” 
whose first “hint” in last week’s Journal I most cordially endorse— 
viz., “ To ask all bee-keepers to take nothing for granted, but test and 
prove everything before putting anything into general execution. 
I have often been surprised to find bar-framists have not replied to 
many of the articles which have of late appeared in the Journal, and 
beginners will, I fear, be likely t) take many things for granted simply 
becuse they have not been contradicted. I would ask all such to bear in 
mind the above-mentioned “hint” whenever they feel inclined to try 
any of the ways of bee-keeping given in such variety. There is no 
question in my mind as to the superiority of the bar-frame hive over all 
others, either for comb, or extracted or run honey ; either for quantity or 
quality the skep is simply nowhere, and the Stewarton cannot give the 
comb honey in a saleable form for this part of the country. Even 2 lb. 
sections do not sell so readily as 1 lb, and as to supers they are quite 
unsaleable except at a lower price than extracted honey. I do not con¬ 
sider “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” has in any way “ shown the superiority 
of supers over sections,” as he assumes. Will he kindly say on 
which half of the hive he had the sections and supers this season to test 
which was best ? as I find the bees will often fill tier above tier of sections 
over the centre and front of the hive, and at the same time not work the 
back row of sections in any of the crates. My crates held twenty-four 
sections each, and I have had three or four of these on a bive at once. 
I think “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” was a little mixed when he wrote 
his article for the Journal of the 13th inst., I mean when he says, “ For 
indeed if people are as fastidious as I am they will hesitate before pur¬ 
chasing the finger-marked comb in sections, which will have to be broken 
up and sold in small pieces.” This is just where the 1 lb. sections, so 
strongly recommended in the “ Bee Journal ” and by most bar-framists, 
are so vastly superior to the large bars of the Stewarton and the supers 
“ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” is continually recommending. Sections do 
not have to be broken up to be sold in email pieces, as they are small 
pieces ready sealed up when finished by the bees ; and if hives will give 
“ 126 lbs. of fully finished sections ” what more can anyone want ? I last 
year took 62 lbs. of sections and 85 lbs. of extracted honey from a hive 
managed in the exact way “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” says is so fatal— 
keeping the queen breeding late in the season by feeding, and feeding and 
spreading brood in spring. It is the facility a frame-hive gives for 
spreading brood which is one of its most valuable points ; and if the hive 
is kept crowded with bees as recommended by Mr. Cowan, the author of 
the system, there is no risk of chilled brood, it is only when part of the 
advice is acted on that mischief occurs.—A Cambridgeshire Bee¬ 
keeper. 
USEFUL HINTS. * 
I cannot do better than refer your readers"to the article by “ Felix ” 
in the number for August 6th, page 123. Bee-keepers following the 
advice given there will not regret it. 
Enlarging Hives .—As this season has shown many bee-keepers the 
folly of having too small hives, and carrying supers close to the brood of 
the stock hive, being the immediate cause of brood in supers and dis¬ 
colouration of combs. All such hives should be enlarged. This can be 
done either by nadiring or tupering. Had the frames been on, the 
compound principle, nadiring, would have been the better plan, but when 
not, supering should be resorted to. An intermediate super of sufficient 
dimensions should be put on, and have it filled before the honey season is 
on, when the supers proper should be put on. The intermediate super 
should have a bar less than the hive has, the two outside ones on each 
side to have the extra width. When the supers proper are put on, care 
should be taken that the outside combs of intermediate supers are not 
sealed; if they are, break the seals, as bees dislike to travel over sealed 
honey to enter supers. 
Preparing for Winter .—All hives not at the Hea’her should be put 
into proper order for standing the winter without delay. Feed where 
required, cover, and contract the entrance. Make stands secure, and put 
the ground in front of hives so that water will not stand in pools. Where 
roofs are deficient in ventilation have the defect remedied, and when once 
a hive is arranged make no alteration of hive or site. If moving is 
necessary, take the hives some miles distant for a month, when they may 
be brought back and set on the new site. 
At the Heather .—If fine weather continues bees will make great 
weights. Great attention should be paid that none lack super room, as 
well as being careful not to give too much. When many are crowded 
together strict watch should be kept as to robbing, and if the bloom is 
past remove the frame at once.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
F. A A. Dickson & Sons, Chester .—Catalogue of Dutch Roots. 
E. Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge.— Catalogue of Bulbs, 1885 (illus¬ 
trated). 
James Veitch ifeSons, King’s Road, Chelsea .—Catalogues of Hyacinths and 
other Bulbs ( illustrated), Trees, and Shrubs, and Lists of Car nations, Picotees, 
and Straivberries. 
B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Holloway.— 
Catalogue of Bulbs, Fruit Trees, Roses, <£-c. ( illustrated). 
William Paul & Son, Waltham Cross .—Bulb Catalogue,1885. 
*** All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.’' Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg cr 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Address (Pitcairlie Correspondent ).—Your letter has been forwarded in 
accordance with your request. 
Rose Gar den (A Lady Gardener ).—Arrange the beds in a series of oblongs 
scolloped at the ends alternately, with round beds of the same width, follow¬ 
ing the curved outline of the ground, allowing plenty of grass between them- 
and the garden will look very well 
Vines Unsatisfactory (A Subscriber ).—There are far too many canes 
the house. They should be at least 3 feet 6 inches apart (better 4 feet 
