September 3, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
213 
paratively fresh for the time, and the grass was bright, green through 
assiduous watering and clipping. Indeed, without constant care such 
plots will not flourish in London or in any large town, a fact which 
appears to be sometimes forgot by the managers of our metropolitan 
parks. Juveniles are rigorously excluded from the parterres in this 
garden, to tread or roll upon which would much delight them no doubt, 
and we suppose that, within the limited area, a piece of turf could not be 
set apart for their special benefit. Upon one of the grass plots it was 
curious to observe a thick growth of Milfoil or Yarrow, a wild plant 
which was not probably introduced with grass seeds or sods, but an old 
tenant of the place not easy to eradicate, yet, weed though we call it, one 
possessing an interesting folk-lore. Beds of flowers are formed here and 
there within the grassy spaces, and are thus effectually protected from the 
meddlesome fingers of adults and juveniles, but we own we cannot see 
much advantage to visitors from a floral display which has to be surveyed 
at a long range. And it would appear that the “ touch-not ” regulation is 
so strictly enforced in some of these public gardens as to make strollers 
fearful every moment lest they should incur a penalty. Possibly this is 
necessary, since the average English miad so closely connects the verbs 
“ admire ” and “ handle.” We were amused at the outspoken admiration 
of a corpulent dame who was evidently doing the gardens with a purpose 
to ree all that there was to be seen. Her standard of excellence was 
Victoria Park, and she pronounced this renovated churchyard nearly as 
good as that, though it might not be as large. 
The flower beds generally contained a fair average show of the plants 
we usually meet with—Pelargoniums, Pvrethrums, and Calceolarias being 
conspicuous. Fronting some of the beds where shrubs formed the back¬ 
ground, Heliotropes, Lobelias, and Petunias, interspersed with Carnations, 
produced a pleasant effect, some annuals appearing amongst these, such as 
Mignonette. Our experience of this old London favourite has been that 
it comes up very well year by year if allowed to sow itself, otherwise 
there is some little difficulty in raising it from seed in the open air. 
Phloxes, as we commonly notice them in such London gardens as this, do 
not give one a favourable idea of the group ; the reason is probably this, 
they are plants requiring peculiar treatment, which the gardeners have not 
time to bestow if they possess the knowledge. Several of the beds had an 
edging of the familiar red Daisy of our gardens behind an edging of ever¬ 
green, but the Daisies had gone out of bloom. It would have been 
strange had we missed the Elder, so seldom absent from a London array of 
ehrubs, and a species somehow liked by cockneys ; and the Poplar, as 
shrub or tree, is also popular. One not very aged Poplar, amongst a few 
others we noticed, presented a curious appearance owing to the numerous 
side shoots which almost hid the parent stem. Some space was allotted to 
Chrysanthemums, but it is small now ; probably more will bs given 
hereafter to a species offering so much variety, and which succeeds in 
London. 
Water always draws the folk, especially in a dusty season like this, 
hence the rockery and pond had many visitors; the former was well 
planted, though we should have put in a greater number of semi-aquatic 
species and climbers. Speaking of climbers, why should not the winter¬ 
flowering Jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) be freely made use of to cover 
walls, railings, &c. ? It would not suffer, we believe, from the smoky 
influences. Nor do we see the Clematis introduced very often for the 
same purpose, or to festoon an arch across a path. The juveniles of St. 
George’s might have got up a butterfly hunt had such been permitted, for 
numerous specimens of the garden white were disporting themselves on 
the flowers, and we ventured to remark t» the gardener that to see these on 
the wing in the heart of London was a pleasing and interesting sight. But 
he was not sympathetic, and assured us that they were “ a nuisance,” 
crediting the insects, perhaps, with more mischief than can rightly be laid 
to their charge. They were, we presume, intending to deposit eggs upon 
the Tropseolums, but we have taken the caterpillars in the act of feeding 
on Pelargoniums or Geraniums. 
Near the above are two smallish squares which are not open to the 
public, yet must be of some benefit to the neighbourhood, and their 
clustering trees are suggestive of rural shades. Wellclose Square was 
doubtless named from some ancient well, and Poplars still flourish there, 
some of them old trees that have been planted. A grove of closely set 
Elms occupy a part of the space, and part is grass, with a few scattered 
flowers, amongst which the Marigold is conspicuous. Prince’s Square, 
within which is a Swedish Church, where lies interred the eccentric 
Swedenborg, has its Elms and Planes, fewer trees, but a better display o 
flowers of the bardy sort.—J. R. S. C. 
WORK.foiI'ihk WEEK,. 
Som 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Turnips. —These are amongst the moat useful of all winter vegetables. 
The majority of cooks call for them daily, and a constant supply should he 
maintained; indeed, the Turnip place in the scullery should never be allowed 
to be empty. Late crops Bhould have every attention. Thin the plants 
out to 15 or 18 inches apart; hoe amongst them afterwards, and keep them 
free from weeds. Swedish Turnips are hardier and easier kept during very , 
severe weather than the white sorts, and many persons who are not bad 
judges prefer them. Where there are signs that the supply is likely to be 
short sow more seed at once. We find for very late sowing the very early 
sorts, such as Early Milan, turn in wonderfully quick, and seed of i; sown 
now will produce nice sized bulbs by November, but they require to he 
used soon afterwards, as they are too tender to stand throughout the 
winter. They might, however, he stored. Summer Turnips have been 
very good this year; they swelled well and were clean and large. During 
the hot dry weather some of them becam j hot and stringy rather too soon, 
but sowing often and in small quantities usually obviates that difficulty. 
Sutton’s Selected Snowball has been very good this summer. 
Autumn-sown Onions. —These are a most important crop; without 
them we should frequently be without Onions in April, May, and June, 
and those who grow for exhibiting always find the autumn Onions valu¬ 
able. In some instances they are sown before this time, and many are 
showing through the ground now; but very early-sown plants are not 
always the most profitable. The great failing amongst the class generally 
is their disposition to run to flower early in spring before any bulbs have 
been formed. "We know of whole crops having been lost in this way, and 
early sowing is the main cause of it. Last year we had not one seeding 
plant in our garden, and we grow thousands. The ground can hardly be 
too well cultivated and manured for this crop, and the position should be 
open and sunny. Lime, soot, or salt should be dug or forked in rather 
freely to keep away the grub, as prevention is always much better than 
cure, and easier too. The white varieties, such as The Queen or White 
Italian, are the first to become ready for use in spring, and a quantity 
should be sown. We find those not transplanted are the first to bulb. Tre- 
bons is excellent to sow now for exhibition purposes, and Webb’s Improved 
Banbury sown at this time becomes fine about midsummer. 
Cauliflowers. —A sowing of Yeitch’s Extra Early should be made 
on a south border to supply plants for keeping through the winter and 
planting out in spring. A little seed of Yeitch’s Autumn G;ant may also 
be sown, as this will succeed the early variety, and prove very useful, 
especially for exhibition, during the early summer months. Sow thinly ; 
when large enough some of the plants may be taken up and dibbled into 
frames or under handlights to be safe in severe weather, and some may be 
left in the seed bed as a chance lot to staud the winter. Sometimes we 
have found these do admirably, hut it is all a question of weather. 
Vegetable Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers— The=e are now 
in full bearing, and producing more fruit than can be used. This is very 
liable to happen about this time, and fruits left on the plants not unfre- 
quently stop the young crop from swelling. This may not be observed 
now, but the mistake will be found out in October when there arc no 
young fruits to cut. Late fruits are always valuable, and by closely 
cutting off all full grown fruits at this time the youug ones will form 
freely and swell until frost cuts them off. Close cutting is the secret of 
late fruiting. 
Mushroom Beds. —The present is a very good time to form these for 
producing a crop during November and December. Collect one or more 
cartloads of horse droppings ; pick the rough of the straw out from them, 
and put the mass in some airy place to dry for a week or so, then mix it 
with about half its quantity of loam soil, and form into a bed. The bed 
should be from 15 inches to 18 inches in depth, and any width from 3 feet 
to 6 feet. The material should be trodden down very firmly. At first 
there will be a good heat in the bed, but if the manure has been properly 
prepared this will not exceed 90°, or thereabouts, and the spawn may be 
inserted. The spawn cannot be too good, and it should be broken into 
pieces about the size of a pigeon’s egg, placing them about 3 inches deep 
and 10 inches apart. The manure may then be levelled down and made 
quite firm, afterwards the surface of the bed should bo covered over to 
the depth of 2 inches of friable soil. This should be made quite level and 
be beaten smooth. If the position of the bed be such that the surface is 
likely to become dry, a layer of hay should he spread over it. As to the 
best place to form a bed, it would be a difficult matter to find a wrong 
one, as they will succeed in all kinds of sheds and outhouses as well as in 
the best Mushroom house. 
Transplanting. — If any of the autumn-sown Cabbage are large 
enough draw them up and dibble them in their bearing quarters. Finish 
transplanting Lettuce and Endive, and should there be any winter greens 
crowded together thin them out and plant in empty corners, which are 
now more plentiful than they were some time ago. Sow a patch of an 
early kind of Radish, and see that the supplies for autumn and winter are 
ample. The first of the winter Spinach may be sown, keeping the rows 
18 inches apart, and allowing it good soil that the leaves may become 
large and succulent. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Those intended for early forcing in pots should now be 
divested of all laterals close down to the cane or main buds, and in the 
case of their being still under glass no time should be lost in removing 
them to the front of a south wall in the open garden, where they must be 
well secured against inj ary from winds’; and to prevent the roots becoming 
too dry, or those against the sides of the pots from being injured, some 
some litter or fern may te placed loosely about the pots. 
Early House. —The permanent planted early forced Vines should be 
encouraged to go to rest by removing all lateral growths, care being taken 
of the old leaves, as they will help to feed and perfect the bunch pro¬ 
ducing buds. It will be necessary to give an abundance of air, or the 
lights may be removed if the weather be fine; hut with the roots in a 
satisfactory condition the check following the removal of the laterals is 
